®I|P  i.  1. 1|ill  IGtbrara 

Nnrtli  (Earoltna  ^talp 
llniDFraitg 


This  book  was  presented  by 

August  De  Hertogh 


lllllllllllillllllillllilllillllliilllilllllll 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


/ 


THE  CULTIVATION 

(  OF  THE 

i^EACH  AND  THE  PEAR, 


DELAW/RE  AND  CHESAPEAKE  PENINSULA. 


WITH  A  CHAPTER  ON  QUINCE  CULTURE  AND  THE  CULTURE 
OF  SOME  OF  THE  NUT-BEARING  TREES. 


JOHN   J.   BLACK,    M.    D. 


With  F*i>a.tes. 


''Let  there  be  thistles,  there  are  grapes!' 


WILMINGTON,    DEL.: 

THE    JAMES    &    WEBB    PRINTING    COMPANY. 
1886. 


COPYRIGHTED,    1886,    liY 
JOHN  J.  BLACK,  M.  U. 


\ 


\ 


TWIGS  OF  A  HEALTHY  PEACH  TREE. 

(From    U.    S.    Government    Agricultural    Report.) 

PLATE   I. 


TWIGS  OF  A  PEACH  TREE  HAVING  THE  YELLOWS. 

(From  U.  S.  Government  Agricultural  Report) 

PLATE  II. 


MYCELIUM  AND  OTHER  FUNGOID  FORMS  FOUND  ON  THE  LIBER  OF  A 
PEACH  TREE  HAVING  THE  YELLOWS. 

(From    U.    S.    Government    Agricultural    Report.) 

PLATE  III. 


SPIRAL  FUNGI,  FOUND  IN  BARK  OF  A  PEACH  TREE  WITH 
YELLOWS. 


(From  U.  S.  Government  Agricultural  Report.) 
PLATE  IV. 


% 


|\^v 


DISEASED  PEAR. 

Attacked   by   fungi   and   entozoa. 

(From  U.  S.  Government  Agricultural  Report.) 

PLATE   V. 


ENTOZOA  FOUND  IN  A  PEAR,  AND  KNOWN  AS  "  ANGUILLULA." 

This  genus  was  formerly  placed  among  the  Infusoria,  but  is   now  arranged 
in  the  order  Nematoidea. 

(From  U.   S.  Goveriimenl  Agricultuial  Report.) 

PLATE   VI. 


CELLULAR  STRUCTURE  OF  BARK  OF  BLIGHTED  PEAR  TREE, 
WITH  SPORES. 


(From  U.  S.  Government  Agricultural  Report.) 

PLATE  VII. 


SPORES  ON  A  LEAF  RIB  OF  A  BLIGHTED  PEAR  TREE. 
(From  U.  S.   Government  Agricultural  Report.) 

PLATC  VIII. 


PREFACE. 


If  any  apology  is  necessary  from  me  for  having 
written  this  book,  it  is  due  to  the  veteran  Fruit 
Growers  of  the  Peninsula,  who  know  much  more 
than  I  about  all  that  pertains  to  the  business.  Yet 
I  feel  that  I  am  doing  a  work,  that  will,  in  many 
wa>s,  benefit  them — a  work  that  will  cause  dis- 
cussion, and  tend  to  bring  uppermost  in  their 
thoughts,  matters  which  need  constant  agitation,  in 
order  to  sift  the  chaff  from  the  grain,  and  to  check 
the  inroads  of  ignorance  and  prejudice,  which  often 
creep  over  minds  at  rest. 

For  the  novice  I  have  no  apology.  For  him  I 
have  written  just  such  a  book  as  I  feel  and  know 
would  have  been  of  very  great  help  and  value  to 
me  when  I  first  engaged  in  fruit  culture,  and  the 
want  of  just  such  a  guide,  in  my  early  struggles,  has 
cost  me  much  pecuniary  loss,  and  many  bitter  disap- 
pointments. 


20  PREFACE. 

In  gathering  material  for  the  book,  I  have  not 
hesitated  to  avail  myself  of  the  work  of  others,  and 
when  used  directly,  have  always  endeavored  to  give 
proper  credit  My  own  opinions  and  judgments, 
where  expressed,  have  been  formed  from  close 
observation,  from  experiment,  from  personal  ex- 
perience, and  from  the  knowledge  gained  in  my 
intercourse  with  the  intelligent  growers  of  fruit 
wherever  I  have  met  them.  All  my  ideas  have 
been  developed  after  due  consideration,  and  I  am 
prepared  to  maintain  them  until  convinced  that 
they  are  erroneous ;  then  they  shall  be  withdrawn  or 
modified  to  suit  a  wider-gained  experience.  Any 
statistics  I  present  are  founded  more  or  less  on  con- 
jecture, and  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  go  into  such 
work  as  I  have  been  doing  to  see  how  utterly  bereft 
the  business  of  fruit  culture  is,  of  any  fostering 
care  of  government,  State  or  National. 

The  reader  will  please  note  that  the  work  is  not 
one  adapted  to  all  parts  of  the  country,  nor  is  it  in 
every  way  a  complete  Manual  of  Horticulture  ;  but 
it  is  intended  to  be  just  what  its  title  declares — A 
Manual  for  the  Cultivation  of  the  Peach  and  the  Pear 
on  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  Peninsula,  with  a 


PREFACE.  21 

chapter  on  the  cultivation  of  the  Quince,  and  some 
of  the  nut-bearing  trees.  I  hope  the  advice  it  gives 
may  be  found  useful  in  other  parts,  but  all  its 
methods  are  particularly  adapted  to  the  Peninsula ; 
and  for  the  benefit  and  instruction  of  the  good  peo- 
ple residing  thereon,  I  have  written  it.  Its  prepara- 
tion has  cost  me  much  work,  and  entirely  absorbed 
as  is  my  time,  by  the  perplexing  and  harassing  duties 
of  an  arduous  and  laborious  profession,  the  oppor- 
tunities for  its  unfolding  have  been  snatched,  as  it 
were,  from  hours  which  should  have  been  devoted 
to  needed  rest  and  recreation. 

Nevertheless,  some  such  Guide  was  needed ; 
and  the  labor  of  getting  it  out  has  been  in  the  nature 
of  a  pleasure  as  well  as  of  a  duty  to  me  ;  and  now, 
with  the  earnest  hope  that  it  may  prove  of  some 
substantial  benefit  to  the  people  of  my  native  State, 
and  of  the  whole  Eastern  Shores,  and  profoundly 
impressed  as  I  am  with  its  many  shortcomings,  I 
launch  it  forth,  and  I  pray  God  that  it  may,  in  fact, 
bring  forth  good  fruit,  and  be  met  by  only  balmy 
breezes  on  the  gende  waves  of  a  summer  sea. 

JOHN  J.  BLACK. 
New  Castle,  Del.,  January  i,  1886. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Chapter  I. 

Introduction.     The  natural  history  of  the  Peach.     Early  Peninsula  Peach 
culture.     Peach  growing  as  a  business. 


Chapter  II. 

Growing  the   Peach   trees  from   the  seed.     The  trees   in  the   nursery. 
Budding  Peach  trees. 


Chapter  III. 

Locating  the  Peach  orchard.      Planting  the  Peach  trees.     Care  of  the 
young  Peach  orchard.     Pruning  Peach  trees. 


Chapter  IV. 

Cultivation  of  the  Peach  orchard.  Fertilization  of  the  Peach  orchard. 
Formulas  for  fertilizers,  etc.  Green  Manures  and  Lime.  Objections  to. 
Rules  for  fertihzing  Peach  trees.  Potash.  Iron.  Phosphoric  Acid. 
Ammonia.     Chlorine,  etc.     Peach  tree  washes.     Germicides. 


Chapter  V. 

Diseases  and  enemies  of  the  Peach.  Yellows,  its  cause,  nature,  and 
treatment.  Analyses  of  healthy  and  diseased  Peach  wood.  Prof.  S.  T. 
Maynard  on  the  Peach.  Frost.  Curculio.  Curled  leaf.  The  Borer.  Thrips. 
Aphides,  etc. 


CONTENTS. 


Chapter  VI. 


Varieties  of  the  Peach  for  the  Delawaie  and  Chesapeake  Peninsula. 
When,  where,  and  what  varieties  to  plant.  Lists  for  orchards  in  different  parts 
of  the  Peninsula,  and  for  different  purposes.  Table  of  ripening.  Table  of 
relative  value  of  varieties. 


Chapter  VII. 

Gathering  the  Peach  crop.     The  Delaware  Fruit  Exchange.      Marketing 
the  Peach  crop. 


Chapter  VIII. 

Canning  the  Peach.  Conserving  the  Peach.  Peach  Leather.  Preserves. 
Peach  Brandy,  Evaporating  the  Peach.  Relative  value  of  different  varieties 
for  evaporating.     Sun-dried  Peaches.     Plans  for  Peach  Orchards. 

Chapter  IX. 

Fifteen  questions  to  Peninsula  Peach -growers,  and  answers  thereto,  from 
between  twenty  and  thirty  growers.     Shipping  Peaches  to  Europe. 

Chapter  X. 

The  Pear.  Introduction.  Natural  history  of  the  Pear.  Development  of 
the  Pear  tree,  starting  from  the  seed;  its  anatomy,  physiology,  etc.  Standards. 
Dwarfs.  Hybrids.  History  of  Peninsula  Pear-growing.  Pear-gi-owing  as  a 
business. 

Chapter  XL 

Propagation  of  the  Pear.     The  nursery.     Budding  and  grafting  the  Pear. 

Chapter  XII. 

Varieties  of  the  Pear  grown  on  the  Peniusula.  Standards.  Dwarfs. 
Hybrids.  The  shapes  of  Pears.  Individual  descriptions  of  the  different 
varieties  of  Pears, 


CONTENTS.  25 

Chapter  XIII. 

The  proper  list  of  varieties  for  the  various  kinds  of  orchard.  The  site 
and  soil  for  Peninsula  Penr  orchards.  Planting  Pear  trees,  and  what  crops  to 
plant  among  them.     Pruning  standard  Pear  trees.     Pruning  dwarf  Pear  trees. 

Chapter  XIV. 

The  standard  Pear  orchard.  The  dwarf  Pear  orchard.  Rules  for  fer- 
tilizing the  standard  Pear  orchard.  Rules  for  fertilizing  the  dwarf  Pear 
orchard.     Formulas   for   Pear  fertilizers.     Pear   tree  washes. 

Chapter  XV. 

Diseases  and  enemies  of  the  Pear.  Fire  Blight,  Twig  Blight,"  Frozen  Sap- 
Blight,  Frost  Bhght,  Insect  Blight,  Leaf  Blight,  Blight  of  the  fruit;  their 
nature,  cause  and  treatment. 

The  Slug.  Bark-Lice,  Scale-insects,  CurcuUo,  the  elements,  starvation, 
overfeeding,  cracking  of  the  fruit.  Decaying  of  the  fruit.  The  Borer  and 
other  insects.  Premature  shedding  of  the  foliage.  Frost.  Cracking  of  the 
bark.  Analyses  of  Peai-  wood,  healthy  and  diseased.  Analysis  of  the 
fruit. 

Chapter  XVI. 

Gathering  the  crop.  Culling.  Housing.  Ripening.  Cold  storage  of 
Pears.  Marketing  the  crop.  Evaporating  the  Pear.  Canning  Pears.  Con- 
serves.    Work  in  the  fruit  orchard  for  each  month  of  the  year. 

Chapter  XVII. 

Eighteen  questions  sent  out  to  Peninsula  Pear-growers,  with  answers  in 
detail,  from  between  twenty  and  thirty  growers. 

Chapter  XVIII. 

The  Quince.  The  Spanish  Chestnut.  The  Japanese  Sweet  Chestnut. 
The  English  Walnut  or  Madeira  Nut,  The  Shellbark.  The  English  Filbert. 
The  duty  of  Peninsula  fruit  growers  to  one  another.  The  duty  of  the  State  to 
her  fruit  interests. 


Chapter  I 


The  Peach  is  closely  allied  to  the  Cherry,  the  Plum, 
the  Apricot  and  the  Almond,  and,  according  to  Prof. 
George  Thurber,  although  usually  called  Amygdalus 
Persica  now  comes  under  the  genus  Primus  and  will 
hereafter  be  likely  referred  to  as  Prunus  Persica.  It 
originated  in  the  East ;  Persia,  or  most  probably  China, 
and  in  this  latter  country  has  been  cultivated  for 
centuries.  Darwin  inclines  to  the  view  that  the  Peach 
is  derived  from  the  Almond,  giving  his  reasons  pro  and 
con,  and  I  think  his  conclusions  are  the  ones  generally 
accepted  at  the  present  time. 

The  tree  on  the  peninsula  reaches  the  height  of 
from  fifteen  to  twenty-five,  or,  even,  thirty,  feet,  with 
corresponding  ordinary  diameter  and  circumference. 
The  leaves  have  the  leaf-stock,  are  lance-shaped  and 
saw-toothed,  and  change  in  season  from  green  to 
yellow  or  brown.  Situated  on  the  leaf-stalks,  usually, 
we  find,  in  many  varieties,  glands,  some  round  or  globe- 
shaped,  and  some  kidney-shaped,  and,  again,  some 
varieties  glandless  ;  these  latter  commonly  having 
longer  teeth  to  the  leaves.     The  glands,  probably,  give 


28  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

the  peculiar  odor  to  the  leaf.  The  tree  blossoms  before 
the  leaves  appear,  and  usually  the  late  peaches  before 
the  early  ones,  and  this  is  one  reason  why  the  flower  is 
so  delicate,  being  naked  at,  and  for  some  time  subse- 
quent to,  its  birth.  The  blossoms  are  like  those  of  the 
rose,  expanding  from  the  separate  buds,  and  their 
leaves  are  usually  pink — darker  or  lighter  in  shade — 
although  in  some  rare  varieties  they  are  white,  or 
yellowish-white.  In  budded  varieties  the  flowers  vary, 
being  in  some  very  open  and  in  some  nearly  closed, 
whilst  in  natural  fruit  they  are  fuily  opened.  The  bark 
is  of  an  olive  brown  color,  when  healthy,  and  only 
moderately  thick,  and  becomes  tinged  with  various 
shades  of  pink  as  the  sap  advances  to  the  branches. 

The  Peach  is  a  drupe  or  stone  fruit.  Some  are 
free-stones,  some  cling-stones,  and  some  neither  the  one 
nor  the  other,  and,  indeed,  in  some  seasons,  the  free- 
stone-fruit does  not  easily  leave  the  seed,  as  the 
canners  and  evaporators  then  find  to  their  sorrow.  The 
natural  seed  are  smaller,  as  a  rule,  than  the  budded,  more 
difficult  to  open,  cavities  smaller,  are  cleaner  and  closer 
grained,  and  in  color  are  dark  cream,  or  very  light  tan, 
whilst  budded  seed  are  more  of  a  maroon  color,  and  are 
in  every  way  handsomer  than  the  natural  seed.  The 
kernel  of  the  natural  seed  is  denser  than  the  others,  and 
seldom  contains  philopena,  as  the  budded  seed  often 
does.     The    seed    of    weak    or    diseased    trees    is   apt 


PEACH   AND   THE    PEAR.  29 

often    to   separate    on    opening    the    peach    and    to   be 
gluey  and  gummy. 

Should  large  quantities  of  double-meated  seed  be 
found  in  a  given  quantity  of  budded  seed  it  would  rather 
tend  to  signify  that  the  trees  were  on  land  too  rich,  and 
were  being  forced  abnormally,  and  both  the  ovules  had 
been  fertilized  and  stimulated,  whereas,  in  the  peach, 
ordinarily,  one  ovule  aborts  and  the  other  lives.  Such 
overstimulated  trees  would  naturally  suffer  from  early 
decline  from  over  gestation,  unless  abnormally  fed,  and 
this  abnormal  feeding  might  cause  premature  decline 
again — as  we  often  see  in  high  livers  among  mankind. 
The  leaves  and  the  kernels  have  a  strong  flavor  and 
odor  of  prussic  acid,  and  this  is  one  of  the  peculiar 
essentials  of  the  Peach.  The  color  of  the  flesh  of  the 
Peach  is  either,  as  a  rule,  yellow  or  white,  the  latter 
often  being  called  reds,  from  the  color  next  the  stone, 
and  on  the  peninsula  both  are  equally  popular,  some- 
times the  yellow  and  again  the  white  gaining  favor. 
The  yellow  varieties  probably  furnish  the  best  specimens 
of  the  fruit,  but  at  the  present  writing  the  white  fruit  is 
causing  increased  inquiry  for  all  purposes.  The  varieties 
of  the  Peach  run  into  the  hundreds,  but  on  the  peninsula, 
probably  twenty  varieties  will  cover  all  that  are  at  pres- 
ent usually  planted.  The  natural  tree  has  been  known 
to  exist  on  the  peninsula  for  more  than  a  hundred  years, 
but  as  to  the  growing  of  the  improved,  or  budded  peach 


30  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

tree,  on  this  peninsula,  the  first  orchard  of  which  I  can 
find  any  trace  was  planted  by  Isaac  Reeves  on  his  farm 
in  the  suburbs  of  Delaware  City,  now  owned  by  his  son 
Clement  Reeves,  Esq.,  of  that  town,  who  has  kindly 
furnished  me  with  information  in  regard  to  the  Peach- 
culture  of  that  date.  This  was  in  the  year  1832,  and 
about  1837  to  1840  Major  Philip  Reybold,  a  man  who 
has  left  an  indelible  mark  in  his  community  as  an  active 
and  progressive  citizen,  together  with  his  sons,  Philip  Jr., 
John,  William,  Clayton,  Barney  and  Anthony,  went  more 
or  less  extensively  into  the  business,  together  with 
other  prominent  growers  of  that  day,  among  them,  Jno. 
C.  Clark,  Dr.  Emerson  of  Philadelphia,  Mr.  Spearman 
on  Duck  Creek,  Messrs.  Atherlee  and  Fennimore,  0:1 
Appoquinimink  Creek,  and  Jehu  Reed  of  Kent  Co., 
Delaware  ;  all  these  had  large  orchards  up  to  the  time 
the  land  refused  longer  to  grow  the  trees  by  the  method 
of  cultivation  then  used.  My  father,  the  late  Dr.  Charles 
H.  Black,  was  a  pioneer-grower  in  Kent  Co.,  Md. 
Since  1850  the  Peach  has  probably  been  generally  grown 
in  the  Delaware  City  region.  I  learn  from  Mr.  Clement 
Reeves  that  the  trees  were  obtained  from  nurserymen 
or  grown  by  the  growers  themselves  ;  that  they 
endeavored  to  use  natural  seed  even  after  budded  stock 
came  in  ;  that  they  manured  the  land  with  barn-yard 
manure,  set  out  the  trees,  planted  corn  for  three  years, 
manuring  the  corn  in  the  hill,  and  that  this  was  all  the 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  3 1 

fertilizer  the  trees  received  in  a  life-time.  The  trees 
were  ploughed  and  cultivated  and  pruned  as  required. 
Mr.  Reeves  planted  land  the  second  time  in  trees  with 
the  aformentioned  treatment,  but  they  died  of  yellows 
after  having  yielded  one  crop  of  fruit.  After  that  he 
and  others  abandoned  the  cultivation  of  the  peach. 
After  the  Peach  failed  in  the  Delaware  City  region, 
Messrs.  Polk  and  Clark  went  to  Kent  County,  Md.,  and 
planted  orchards  successfully,  and  to-day  that  county 
produces  elegant  fruit.  So,  by  comparison,  the  Dela- 
ware soil  gave  out  long  before  the  Maryland  soil.  The 
soil  about  Delaware  City  is  richer,  or  was  then,  and 
heavier  than  the  Maryland  soil.  In  those  days  the  out- 
let for  peaches  was  very  limited  and  the  growers  of  the 
then  comparatively  small  quantity  of  fruit  were  often 
dismayed  ;  whole  steam-boat  loads  being  frequently 
thrown  into  the  water,  both  at  Philadelphia  and  at  New 
York,  to  relieve  the  overstocked  market. 

The  world  moves,  and  probably  to-day,  with  the 
facilities  at  our  hand,  we  can  market  successfully,  more 
millions  of  baskets  than  our  predecessors  could  market 
tens  of  thousands.  Peach  culture  entered  the  peninsula 
cotemporaneously  with  the  telegraph,  and  both  have 
progressed  with  almost  equal  step  to  a  point  of  which, 
probably,  their  originators  never  dreamed.  The  business 
was  not  active  from  1850  to  1854,  about  which  time  that 
great   developer  of    the    peninsula,   the   Delaware   Rail 


32  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Road,  was  beginning  to  penetrate  its  hitherto  hidden 
fields.  Now  the  intelligent  and  progressive  men  of  the 
section  saw  the  opportunity  for  development  of  the 
culture  of  the  Peach,  and  from  that  time  the  business 
has  increased  and  prospered,  until  to-day  it  is,  probably, 
above  all  others,  the  great  source  of  prosperity  to  the 
good  people  inhabiting  the  land  between  the  two  great 
bays  of  the  Delaware  and  the  Chesapeake. 

The  Peach  crop  appears  to  be  running  in  cycles  of 
years.  In  the  "  seventies  "  the  business  was  poor,  in  the 
"  sixties"  it  was  better,  and  now,  in  the  **  eighties,"  it  is 
flourishing  grandly,  the  season  of  '8o-'8i  being  the  only 
general  failure.  Improved  culture  and  methods  may,  of 
course,  be  the  cause  of  all  this. 

The  probable  centre  of  the  peninsular  peach-belt 
at  this  time,  under  the  present  methods  of  culture,  etc., 
is  about  Wyoming,  in  Kent  county,  Delaware,  and 
extends  north  to  Middletown,  in  New  Castle  County, 
and  south  to  Laurel,  in  Sussex  county,  Delaware,  and 
in  breadth  reaches  from  the  Delaware  bay  to  the 
Chesapeake.  Fifteen  years  ago,  or  less,  the  centre  was 
probably  at  Middletown  ;  so  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
belt  is  spreading  southward  quite  rapidly.  The  great 
problem  to  solve  is,  if  possible,  to  bring  back  the  centre 
to  Middletown  by  new  methods  of  culture  and  other 
adjuncts.  At  the  present  time,  in  some  parts  of  New 
Castle  county,  notably  about    Iron  and   Chestnut-hills, 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  33 

the  very  finest  fruit  is  raised,  and  the  trees  are  flourish- 
ing, if  the  red-clay  soil  is  chosen.  There  is  much  iron- 
ore  and  potash  in  this  red  soil,  the  land  is  often  light 
and  stony,  and  is  not  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 
The  Megget  and  orther  orchards,  in  this  neighborhood, 
are  celebrated  in  the  Wilmington  market  for  their  fine 
fruit. 

There  are  at  present  on  the  peninsula  probably 
between  two  and  three  millions  of  peach  trees  in 
bearing,  and  very  nearlj'-  as  many  planted,  but  not  yet  in 
bearing,  making  in  all,  say,  five  millions  of  trees.  The 
trees  in  the  upper  section  are  generally  larger  than  those 
in  the  lower  section,  and  by  the  large  trees  going  out  in 
the  upper  section,  the  present  capacity  of  five  millions  of 
trees  is  not  what  it  would  be  did  the  lower  section  trees 
grow  to  the  size  of  those  about  Middletown,  for 
instance.  Thus  the  increase  in  the  number  of  trees 
does  not  increase  the  fruit-yield  as  rapidly  as  one  might, 
at  first  thought,  think,  and  so  the  oft  predicted  glutted 
markets  of  the  future  may  be  avoided. 

The  past  season  (1885)  there  have  probably  been 
raised  and  marketed  on  the  peninsula  three  millions  of 
baskets  of  peaches.  The  prices  realized  have  been  very 
handsome,  and  the  business  has  received  a  great 
impetus.  Many  outside  influences  have  this  year  aided 
the  peninsular  growers,  and  chief,  of  course,  because  the 
crop  was  almost  a  failure  in  other  sections  of  the 
3 


34  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

country,  reaching  even  to  the  far  West.  There  is 
danger  that  such  a  state  of  affairs  may  precipitate  a 
condition  of  "  bonanza-farming  "  in  peach  growing,  the 
planting  of  an  excessive  acreage,  followed  by  neglect  of 
the  details  of  the  business,  and  disappointment  to  the 
unfortunate  neophytes.  Within  ten  years  I  have  heard 
peach  growing  denounced  as  a  delusion  and  a  snare, 
have  seen  magnificent  trees  pulled  out  as  unworthy  of 
the  soil  they  occupied,  and  now  again  see  men  who  did 
this,  plant  orchards  and  talk  as  enthusiastically  as  the 
most  enthusiastic,  about  the  great  delights  and  profits  of 
peach  culture. 

Peach  growing  is  like  any  other  business,  whatever, 
that  a  man  may  follow.  It  demands  and  must  receive 
absolute  attention  to  detail,  from  the  very  inception  of 
the  idea  of  becoming  a  grower,  down  to  the  hour  the 
fruit  is  turned  into  money.  Make  the  crop  a  legitimate 
crop,  say  one-fifth  to  one-sixth  of  your  farm,  and  be 
careful  when  you  plant,  what  you  plant,  and  where  you 
plant,  and  most  important  of  all,  attend  to  what  you  do 
plant,  and  this  attention  must  vary  with  soil,  location, 
and  other  surrounding  circumstances.  There  are  many 
uncertainties  in  the  business,  it  is  attended  with  great 
and  inexpressible  anxieties,  and  is  not,  by  any  manner 
of  means,  the  royal  and  easy  way  to  fortune  that  the 
inexperienced  often  imagine.  The  vicissitudes  of  the 
weather,  insect-life,  etc.,  are   such  that  what   promises 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR. 


35 


everything  we  could  wish  to-day.  is  dispelled  with  the 
coming  of  the  morrow,  and  the  work  and  toil  and 
expense  of  a  year  are  ever  present  to  mock  you,  ever 
yoked  to  your  labor.  Thus  from  year  to  year  may  the 
illusions  of  hope  be  dispelled,  and  often  and  often  again, 
may  the  very  fruit  you  are  actually  grasping  be  turned 
to  ashes  on  your  lips. 


Chapter  II. 


PROPAGATING   THE   TREE. 

I  declare  and  affirm  as  my  opinion,  without  any 
reservation  whatever,  that  the  Peach  should  be  grown 
only  from  the  seed  of  the  natural  or  unbudded  fruit. 
Nature  advances  and  does  not  retrograde,  and  this 
crime  against  nature,  of  breeding  in-and-in,  is  followed  in 
all  phases  of  life  by  degenerate  offspring,  and  these,  not 
being  fit  to  live  to  propagate  the  species,  are  self- 
devoured,  as  it  were,  to  make  room  for  the  perfect 
specimens  of  the  species — for  only  the  fittest  shall 
survive.  I  attribute  a  great  deal  of  the  loss  and  dis- 
appointment in  the  peach  business  to  the  reckless, 
careless,  nay,  almost  criminal  way  in  which  the  propaga- 
tion of  the  trees  has  been  carried  on.  I  personally 
know  where  seed  from  evaporators  has  been  taken  away 
indiscriminately  for  the  purpose  of  raising  nursery-stock, 
and  I  know  that  among  these  seeds  were  thousands  that 
had  come  from  diseased  and  premature  trees. 

Not  only  should  the  seed  be  from  natural  truit,  but 
even  this  should  be  carefully  gone  over  ;  only  the  very 
best  specimens  being  selected  for  planting,  and  in  this 


38  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

way  may  we  make  the  start  for  perfect  trees.  The  seed 
may  be  obtained  in  North  Carolina,  Virginia,  Tennessee, 
Georgia,  probably  on  our  own  peninsula,  and  some  in 
Michigan.  The  strictest  care  should  be  exercised  in  its 
selection,  and  it  would  be  a  grand  thing  if  every  seed  that 
comes  into  the  peninsula  could  undergo  legal  inspection 
before  it  is  planted.  The  cost  of  the  seed  varies  from 
$2.00  to  $5.00  per  bushel,  and  ten  to  fifteen  bushels  will 
seed  an  acre  of  ground,  depending,  of  course,  on  the 
distance  they  are  placed  apart. 

For  nursery-stock,  any  good,  sandy,  or  mellow  loam, 
or  the  light,  sandy  soils  of  the  peninsula  will  do.  The 
ground  should  be  thoroughly  prepared  by  ploughing 
harrowing  and  rolling  ;  no  fertilizer  is  required  if  the 
ground  will  raise  forty  bushels  of  corn  to  the  acre  ;  for 
it  is  not  well  to  force  young  trees  too  rapidly.  Run  out 
the  rows  from  three  and  a-half  to  four  feet  apart,  and 
one  to  two  inches  deep.  This  is  best  done  by  a  sled-like 
machine  made  for  the  purpose.  The  time  to  plant  the 
seed  is  from  October  lOth,  to  freezing  weather.  In 
examining  into  this  matter,  I  am  persuaded  that  the 
best  take  will  come  from  those  seed  planted  not  later 
than  October  20th.  The  seed  may  be  laid  touching  each 
other,  or  some  two  or  three  inches  apart.  Three  inches 
apart  is,  probably  best,  and  then  cover  the  seed  by  a 
rake,  or  with  the  feet.  The  seed  remaining  in  the  ground 
all  winter  are  cracked  by  the  frost,  and  in  the  spring 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  39 

germinate  and  grow.  When  the  trees  have  well  appeared, 
they  should  have  the  ground  stirred  about  them  and  be 
worked  just  about  as  we  work  corn  through  the  season, 
throwing  a  furrow  from  them,  and  then  again  to  them, 
and  cultivating  out  the  middles  time  and  again.  Don't 
fertilize  unless  the  trees  make  very  poor  growth,  or  you 
are  forcing  them  for  June  budding.  Another  method  of 
planting  is  to  spread  the  seeds  over  the  ground  and  spade 
or  plough  them  in,  taking  up  in  spring,  when  sprouting, 
cracking  those  not  sprouted  and  transplanting  to  nursery- 
row.  This  way  is  obviously  so  inferior  to  the  first  plan 
as  to  need  no  further  reference.  There  are  other 
methods  of  which  I  will  not  speak,  for  the  same  reason. 
The  rows,  to  get  better  light  and  heat,  are  recommended 
by  Fulton  to  be  run  north  and  south.  Of  course  should 
the  trees  come  up  too  thick  they  should  be  thinned,  say 
to  four  inches,  and  this  will  be  found  close  enough  to 
give  a  good  tree  and  afford  room  to  the  budder.  The 
trees  should  be  worked  until  well  advanced,  at  least  into 
June,  and  even  after  that  kept  clean  by  hand,  if  necessary, 
of  all  weeds.  If  you  want  June-budded  trees  they  had 
better  be  forced  a  little  by  barn-yard  or  stable-manure, 
thoroughly  rotted,  or  by  an  ammoniated  super-phosphate. 

BUDDING. 

What  I  had  to  say  of  the  natural  seed  applies 
equally  to  the  bud — it  should  be  obtained  from  a  per- 
fectly healthy  tree,  from  a  known  variety,  and  from  a 


40  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

tree  known  to  have  been  raised  from  a  natural  seed. 
The  Peach  may  also  be  propagated  by  grafting,  but  this 
mode  is  seldom  or  never  resorted  to  now.  In  England 
the  peach  is  generally  budded  on  the  plum,  because  it  is 
thus  dwarfed,  and  grows  better  against  walls,  the  only 
way  it  can  be  raised  out  of  doors  there.  On  the  penin- 
sula we  bud  from  June  to  September,  or  as  long  as  the 
sap  flows  freely  ;  but  a  vast  majority  of  the  trees  are 
budded  in  August,  which  is,  undoubtedly,  the  best  month, 
all  things  considered.  As  before  remarked,  if  the  trees 
are  to  be  budded  in  June  they  need  a  little  forcing  to 
give  size.  A  man  and  two  boys  make  a  budding-team  ; 
the  man  buds,  one  boy  ties  after  him,  and  the  other  boy 
goes  ahead  and  strips  the  trees  of  buds  and  leaves  four 
inches  or  more  above  the  ground.  The  buds  may  be 
obtained  from  nursery-stock  or  from  bearing-orchards. 
The  former  are  thought  to  take  best ;  of  course  the 
bud  must  be  a  leaf-bud  and  not  a  fruit-bud.  The 
buds  are  obtained  from  the  very  best  twigs  of 
the  season's  growth,  always  selecting  the  best  buds 
on  the  twig,  and  using  them  only.  Cut  off  all 
leaves  a  short  distance  from  the  twig  and  keep  the 
stick  with  buds  on  it  moist  until  needed  for  use.  The 
budder  will  cut  them  as  he  needs  them,  with  a  sharp 
knife,  taking  an  elliptical  piece  of  the  bark  only,  reach- 
ing a  quarter  of  an  inch  more  or  less  above  and  below 
the  bud.    Now,  with  a  budding-knife,  he  cuts  a  T  shaped 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  4I 

incision  through  the  bark,  slits  it  up  slightly,  and  deftly 
inserts  the  bud  as  near  the  ground  as  possible,  and  not 
over  four  inches  above  it,  at  most.  The  boy  ahead  has 
previously  stripped  the  tree,  to  this  point,  of  buds  and 
leaves,  and  the  boy  behind  ties  the  bud  in  with  a  bass- 
wood  tie,  which  may  now  be  found  on  sale  ready-made, 
having  formerly  to  be  pulled  from  old  mats.  The  best 
tie  is  a  figure-of-eight,  knotted  around  the  bud.  These 
trees  having  been  budded  in  June  are  left  until  the  buds 
are  seen  to  have  taken,  say  ten  to  twenty  days,  when 
the  ties  are  cut  on  those  that  have  taken,  and  those 
which  have  not  taken  can  be  marked  and  budded  over, 
but  probably  might  just  as  well  be  pulled  up.  Very  soon 
now  the  tops  must  be  cut  away  just  above  the  new  bud, 
all  buds  be  kept  rubbed  off  of  the  parent  stock  below 
the  bud,  and  the  young  tree  may  be  set  out  the  next  fall 
or  spring  in  the  permanent  orchard.  Later  budding  in 
August  or  September  does  not  differ  much  from  the 
June  budding,  save  that  the  tops  are  not  cut  off  until 
the  next  spring,  after  the  sap  has  just  begun  to  flow. 
Then  the  old  stock  is  kept  rubbed  free  from  buds 
below  the  new  bud.  Very  little,  if  any  pruning,  is 
needed  by  the  young  trees,  and  the  coming  fall  or  spring 
they  are  fit  to  set  in  the  orchard — two  years  from  the 
seed  and  one  year  from  the  bud  being  apparently  the 
proper  age,  although  I  know  some  of  the  most  intelli- 
gent and  successful  growers  who  prefer  the  June-budded 


42  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

trees  because  they  can  be  dug  with  the  tap-roots  entire 
and  are  easy  of  carriage,  etc.  In  the  peninsula  nurseries 
the  trees  are  now  generally  dug  with  a  tree-plough  and 
baled  with  baling-cloth  with  the  roots  packed  in  moist 
moss,  or  they  may  be  packed  in  boxes,  with  moist  moss, 
in  which  condition  they  may  go  safely  around  the  world; 
the  great  danger  being  from  too  much  heat  rather  than 
too  much  cold.  If  the  trees  in  transportation  get  in  too 
hot  a  place,  fermentation  may  ensue  and  the  vitality  be 
destroyed,  and  the  same  may  happen  if  they  freeze, 
but  first-class  packing  will  usually  avoid  these  evils.  I 
have  never  lost  trees  but  once,  and  they  came  from  New 
York  State,  disgracefully  packed  only  in  a  few  leaves  ; 
consequently  they  froze,  and  many  of  them  were  ruined. 

Taking  up  and  shipping  the  trees  is  of  vast  import- 
ance to  the  grower  and  to  the  producer  too,  for  mixing 
the  varieties  or  doing  the  work  so  as  to  injure  the  trees 
must  ruin  the  latter's  reputation  and  be  a  source  of 
irremediable  loss  and  disappointment  to  the  former.  The 
nurserymen  now  do  their  work  with  such  system  and 
intelligence  that  I  am  glad  to  say  very  little  complaint 
comes  of  any  errors  committed  in  the  business,  and  it  is 
a  business,  at  once  to  the  body,  laborious,  and  to  the 
mind,  exhausting. 


Chapter  III. 


LOCATING   THE   ORCHARD. 

Before  writing  this  book,  among  other  questions  to 
which  I  requested  answers  from  prominent  growers,  was, 
"What  is  the  best  soil  for  a  peach-orchard,  and  what  is 
the  best  location  as  to  hill,  valley,  etc.  ?"  Answers  to 
these  questions  will  be  found  under  the  proper  head. 
Here,  I  wish  to  give  my  own  opinions.  The  peach- 
orchard  should  be  on  land  as  nearly  level  in  all  parts  as 
possible,  to  give  an  average  crop.  Peaches  do  not,  as  a 
rule,  do  well  on  hill-sides,  and,  although  in  valleys  they 
often  bear  abundantly  and  freely  of  the  finest  fruit,  yet 
in  them  they  are  much  more  susceptible  to  death  from 
frost,  mature  their  wood  too  rapidly,  and  are  apt  to  shed 
their  fruit  at  some  time  in  the  season  and  be  deficient  in 
color.  On  hill-sides,  as  a  rule,  the  trees  do  not  thrive, 
and  the  fruit  lacks  all  good  points,  except,  perhaps, 
color.  I  like  water,  fresh  or  salt,  especially  fresh,  near 
an  orchard,  and  to  the  north,  east  or  west  of  it,  and  it  is 
better  if  the  orchard  be  on  a  peninsula.  I  especially 
like  water  to  the  north  and  to  the  west,  for  freezing  is  a 
warming  process,  paradoxical  as  it  may  appear,  and  the 


44  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

heat  given  out   often  saves    winter-killing  of  wood  and 
buds,  as  we  saw  in  the  cold  winter  of  '80  and  '81,  when 
all  the  peaches  we  had  were  grown  near  water.     I  want 
no  woods  or  other  shelter  near  my  orchard.     If  I  must 
have  it,  let  it  be  to  the  east,  and  not  to  the  north  or  the 
west.     If  to  the  north  or  the  west,  then  the  trees  are 
sheltered,  are  forced  ahead  too  early  in  the  spring,  and 
are  thus  more  vulnerable  to  late  frosts.     I  say  again,  I 
don't  seek  any  shelter,  but  an  eastern  shelter  may  possi" 
bly  save  my  crop,   when   a  severe,  cold,  easterly  storm 
comes   at   the   last    of  the    bloom.      Yet,    altogether,  I 
believe  even  the  eastern  shelter,  say  in  a  period  of  ten 
years,  would  do  more  harm  than  good.     As  to  soil,  all 
the  soil  of  the  peninsula  is  more  or  less  suitable  to  the 
peach,  and    there  are   many  differences  of  opinion  as  to 
the  very  best.     I  believe   the  very  best  soil,  if  I  could 
have  the  selecting  of  it,  to  be  a  strong,  mellow  loam,  in 
fair  agricultural  condition,  with  only  a  moderate  amount 
of  sand,  with  an  open,  well  drained  sub-soil   of  yellow 
or  red    clay,    containing,  naturally,  a  large   amount    of 
potash  and  iron,  under  which  you  would  find  water   by 
digging  down  twenty  to  thirty  feet.   In  this  soil  I  should 
expect,  with    proper,  healthy,  thrifty   trees,  and  careful 
culture,  good  crops  of  fruit,  with  good  size,  good  flavor 
and  high  color,  and    these  cover  all  the   good  points  in 
peach-culture. 

PLANTING   THE   TREES. 

When  you  plant  an  orchard  always  choose  the  very 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR. 


45 


best  location  on  your  property  that  has  not  been  in 
peaches  before,  and.  keeping  in  view  the  advice  I  have 
given,  you  will  probably  not  err.  Plant  trees  from 
eighteen  to  twenty  feet  apart,  according  as  your  land 
and  culture  will  bring  large  or  small  trees.  The  former 
will  give  you  one  hundred  and  nine  trees  to  the  acre,  the 
latter,  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  trees,  and  each  will 
be  right,  on  its  proper  soil.  The  trees  may  be  planted 
in  the  autumn  or  in  the  spring.  The  majority  of  growers 
prefer  the  autumn  ;  then  they  have  more  time,  they  get 
the  trees  in  good  condition  and  fresh  dug,  the  latter  not 
having  been  "heeled  in"  all  winter  ;  as  spring  trees 
often  have  been  when  they  come  from  the  nursery. 
Again,  the  tree  has  settled  and  is  ready  to  go  off  at 
once  in  the  spring,  after  having  been  planted  in  the  fall. 
Outside  of  these  reasons  it  really  doesn't  make  much 
difference  whether  the  trees  are  planted  in  the  spring  or 
in  the  autumn.  The  ground,  I  think,  should  be  ploughed 
deep,  and  thoroughly  prepared,  as  for  a  premium  wheat 
or  corn  crop,  before  the  trees  are  planted,  although  the 
general  custom  is  to  turn  a  few  furrows,  plant  the  trees, 
and  defer  further  cultivation  until  the  spring.  Thorough 
preparation  destroys  the  bedding  for  mice,  and,  hence, 
will  check  their  depredations,  and  this  is  important. 
The  rows  may  be  run  by  the  plough,  and  cross-furrows 
where  the  trees  are  to  be  set.  The  holes  should  be  wide 
enough  to  receive  the  roots  without  cramping,  and  deep 


46  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

enough  to  set  the  tree  a  very  little,  if  any,  deeper  than 
when  it  grew  in  the  nursery.  Set  the  tree,  straighten 
out  the  roots,  and  put  in  one-third  of  the  hole 
full  of  soil,  then  shake  the  tree  up  and  down  VERY 
slightly,  tramp  moderately,  and  fill  up  with  soil  nearly 
to  the  top ;  tramp  well  again,  and  then  take  the 
soil,  and  bank  around  the  tree  three  or  four  inches  up 
the  stalk,  and  you  have  finished.  It  will  be  seen  that  in 
the  operation  all  sub-soil  has  been  discarded  in  filling 
up  the  hole.  I  should  have  said  that  before  planting 
the  tree  the  roots  should  be  freed  from  all  broken  or 
bruised  ends,  and  the  same  with  the  tops  or  branches. 
If  trees  should  be  frozen  when  received  from  the 
nursery,  the  best  treatment  is  to  put  the  whole  package, 
box  and  all,  without  opening  it,  in  a  cellar  until  thawed 
out,  and  then  plant;  or  if  in  the  fall,  "  heel-in  "  until 
spring.  If  they  come  in  the  spring  dry  and  shriveled, 
bury  the  entire  tree  in  a  deep,  wide  trench  and  saturate 
the  soil  with  water  after  they  have  been  covered,  and 
allow  them  to  thus  remain  six  to  nine  days,  until  they 
look  properly  ;  or  sink  the  bundle  under  water  and  hold 
them  there  four  days,  then  plant  and  cut  the  tops  back. 
But  I  don't  like  to  plant,  under  any  circumstances,  a 
tree  that  has  been  frozen.  Should  the  trees  be  found  to 
be  heated  when  received,  or  the  moss  moulded  and  fire- 
fanged,  as  it  is  termed,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  trees 
would  survive,  and   those  that  did  live  would  be  dis- 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  47 

appointing  and  unsatisfactory,  for  a  time,  at  least.  If 
cold  weather  catches  you  in  planting,  stop  and 
"heel-in"  the  trees  until  spring. 

Whether  the  trees  have  been  planted  in  the  autumn 
or  in  the  spring,  they  should  be  headed  back  in  the 
spring  and  trimmed  up,  ready  for  the  start.  Cut  ofT  the 
top  to  three,  or  three  and  a  half  feet,  or  cut  it  off  to  two 
feet,  as  you  want  your  tree  to  head  high  or  low.  I 
prefer  about  three  feet  to  three  feet  and  a  half,  as  such 
an  orchard  will  be  easier  to  get  about  in.  Cut  off  all 
lateral  branches,  and  your  work  is  finished  as  far  as  the 
tree  itself  is  concerned.  It  is  the  custom  on  the 
peninsula  to  work  the  young  orchard  in  corn  for  the  first 
two  or  three  years.  Two  years  are  enough  ;  the  third  year 
won't  pay  and  is  bad  for  the  trees  ;  besides,  there  may  be 
a  crop  of  fruit  the  third  year,  although  this  is  not  desir- 
able for  the  trees  ;  but  life  is  short  and  it  helps  the  pocket, 
and  we  don't  often  pull  them  off  prematurely  for  the 
good  of  the  trees.  Others  prefer  to  work  young  trees  in 
low  crops,  as  tomatoes,  etc.,  thinking  that  the  trees  do 
better.  I  don't  know  that  it  makes  much  difference.  I 
would  suggest  raspberries  as  a  crop  in  small  orchards. 

PRUNING. 

As  stated  above,  the  tree  should  be  pruned  of  its  top 
and  all  branches,  the  first  spring,  and  the  top  should  be 
cut  off  to  within   three  to  three  and  a  half  feet  of  the 


48  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

ground  to  make  it  head  properly.  This  is  the  preferable 
point,  altho'  others  head  them  to  two  feet,  or  even  less. 
It  makes  no  difference,  except  as  to  convenience  of 
working  the  orchard,  and  picking  the  fruit  in  after  years. 
The  branches  below  the  head  should  be  kept  off  the  first 
year  or  two,  all  suckers  removed,  and  any  straggling 
outside  branches  kept  cut  off,  but,  until  the  tree  has 
borne  a  crop  of  fruit,  I  doubt  the  propriety  of  cutting 
out  the  middles,  as  in  here  the  first  fruit  crop  most 
usually  grows,  and  by  severe  pruning  at  this  time  the 
tree  is  not  benefited,  and  much  loss  in  fruit  may  occur. 
It  is  well  to  let  the  sun  into  peach  trees  ;  therefore  cut 
out  all  crossing  and  interfering  branches,  all  dead  wood, 
and  all  limbs  that  have  been  cracked  or  broken.  When 
this  has  been  done,  as  a  rule,  the  tree  has  sufficient 
pruning.  Ths  saw  and  the  pruning  knife  are  used,  and 
as  a  rule  the  wounds  heal  without  aid  or  interference. 
Some  trim  very  "hard"  for  fruit,  but  I  doubt  the 
propriety  of  this.  Cutting  back  the  new  wood  is  not 
much  practised  on  the  peninsula.  It  would  do  good, 
doubtlessly,  if  the  tree  was  languishing,  and  sickly,  and 
will  be  referred  to  again.  So  intelligent  an  observer  as 
William  M.  Knight,  Esq.,  of  Cecil  county,  Md.,  told  me 
that  he  once  saw  a  thrifty  middle-aged  orchard  treated 
by  cutting  back  all  the  new  wood  one-half  and  given 
good  culture,  etc. ;  in  a  year  when  all  the  neighboring 
orchards  had  good  crops,  the  crop  on  that  orchard  was 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  49 

of  the  poorest,  knottiest  little  peaches  it  had  ever 
yielded  before,  or  has  ever  yielded  since.  The  treat- 
ment did  harm  to  that  crop  and  no  good  to  those  that 
came  afterwards.  The  peach  is  an  enigma,  and  its 
treatment  has  not  yet  been  reduced  to  an  exact  science, 
by  any  means.  Probably  the  majority  of  growers  do 
their  trimming  after  the  picking  season  is  over  ;  then 
they  take  out  all  dead  wood,  broken  limbs  and  interfer- 
ing cross-limbs,  and  cut  off  all  suckers,  and  this  is  the 
sum  of  their  pruning.  Others,  again,  trim  in  the  winter 
and  spring,  for  the  benefit  of  the  tree,  and  some  later  in 
summer,  to  force  fruiting  ;  others  trim  whenever  their 
knives  are  sharp,  and  they  see  an  indication  of  suckers  ; 
this  last  method  is  good  anyhow.  I  prefer  to  snug  up 
the  orchard  after  the  picking  season  ;  any  radical 
trimming,  if  necessary,  I  do  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
winter,  and  in  early  spring,  and  if  I  want  to  cut  back 
new  wood,  to  do  it  later  in  the  spring.  As  to  fancy 
pruning  and  training,  they  are  not  practised  in  practical 
peach-culture  on  the  peninsula,  but  at  the  same  time  it 
is  not  right  to  leave  the  tree  altogether  without 
pruning,  for  the  budded  peach,  in  particular,  requires 
care  and  cultivation,  and  in  this  care  and  cultivation, 
judicious  pruning  has  its  share.  Hand-thinning  of  the 
fruit  is  not  practised  on  the  peninsula — nature  accom- 
plishes all  that  in  the  June  drop. 


Chapter  IV, 


CULTIVATION  OF  THE  ORCHARD. 
Before  entering  into  the  matter  of  cultivating  the 
orchard  I  will  say  here,  that  should  one  wish  to 
plant  Peach  trees  on  land  inclined  to  be  heavy  and 
clayey,  and  with  a  sub-soil  not  porous,  or  in  a  soil  from 
which  the  water  does  not  vanish  after  a  rain,  in  a  reason- 
able time,  the  first  step  would  be  to  underdrain  that  soil, 
thoroughly,  for  any  crop,  but  more  particularly  for  the 
peach.  Run  the  drains,  surface  and  underdrains,  both, 
so  as  to  cut  off  all  the  springs,  bringing  the  land  into 
condition  at  once  to  raise  a  good  crop  of  corn  ;  then  on 
such  land  you  may  plant  Peach  trees,  and  if  your  trees 
should  go  too  much  to  wood  and  drop  their  fruit,  or  be 
lacking  in  color,  or  suffer  with  leaf-curl,  you  must  still 
further  dry  out  the  ground  or  fail  in  your  orchard.  Now, 
when  shall  we  begin  to  cultivate  the  orchard,  and  how.? 
My  own  observation  and  experience  lead  me  to  practise 
and  advocate  early  ploughing  in  the  spring,  just  as  soon 
as  it  is  possible  to  start  the  plough  and  make  good  work. 
By  so  doing  we  give  the  roots  a  slight  pruning,  thus 
checking  a  too  rapid  tendency  to  development  of  the 
buds,  and  they,  being  held  back,  are  not  so  liable  to  be 
injured  by  the  early  frosts.  On  the  other  hand,  experi- 
enced   growers    tell    us    to    wait  until  after  corn    has 


52  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

been  planted  before  ploughing  the  peach-orchard,  for 
the  ground  being  covered  with  dead  grass,  etc.,  will 
attract  frost  less,  and  thus  save  the  crop  from  its 
ravages.  On  the  whole,  probably,  very  few  now 
advocate  this  view,  and  nearly  all  growers  advise  early 
ploughing.  Some  advocate  re- ploughing  in  the  fall, 
especially  old  orchards.  This  may  do  when  there  is  a 
rank  growth  of  weeds,  grasses,  etc.,  to  check  the  ravages 
of  rabbits,  mice,  etc.,  and  throws  the  soil  open  to  oxyda- 
tion  ;  but,  as  a  rule,  I  don't  think  autumn  ploughing 
necessary  or  advantageous. 

How  shall  we  plough,  and  how  often  ?  Plough  not 
over  four  inches  in  the  middle,  and  shallower  still  around 
the  trees,  with  a  small  plough.  A  majority  plough  once, 
and  work  up  to  the  trees  with  harrow  and  cultivator' 
It  does  not  make  a  great  difference,  but  it  is  probably 
better  to  plough  twice  at  slight  intervals,  first  throwing 
furrows  from  the  trees,  and  in  the  second  ploughing, 
throwing  them  back  to  the  trees.  After  ploughing, 
harrow  thoroughly,  and  keep  the  cultivator  going  as 
often  as  shall  be  necessary  to  keep  the  ground  clear  of 
all  weeds  and  grasses,  and  only  stop  when  the  fruit 
bends  down  the  limbs  so  as  to  impede  the  horses. 
This  time  will  be  about  from  the  tenth  to  the  twentieth 
of  June.  After  this,  no  more  tillage  until  the  next 
season.  If  any  noxious  weeds  grow  later,  they  may  be 
cut  off  and  allowed  to  decay  on  the  ground,  as  they 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  53 

impede  the  pickers,  and  render  them  very  uncomfortable 
by  wetting  their  clothing  on  rainy  days  and  dewy 
mornings. 

Too  much  stress  cannot  be  laid  on  the  cultivation 
of  the  orchard.  An  orchard  uncultivated  for  a  season 
can  never  be  properly  reclaimed.  By  cultivation  we 
destroy  insect-life  and  open  up  the  soil  for  the  introduc- 
tion of  food  to  the  tree  ;  we  allow  oxydation  of  the  iron 
and  other  elements  of  the  soil  to  go  on  ;  we  scatter  and 
disintegrate  the  fertilizers  applied  to  the  land,  keep 
down  the  growth  of  weeds  and  grasses,  and  instead 
of  allowing  them  to  sap  the  ground  for  their  own 
nourishment,  we  turn  them  into  additional  food  for  the 
tree.  I  know  of  one  very  successful  grower  who  advo- 
cates ploughing  eight  inches  deep,  but  as  a  rule  I 
recommend  shallower  ploughing. 

FERTILIZATION   OF   THE   ORCHARD. 

Until  very  recently,  the  fertilization  of  the  peach- 
orchard  was  taken  little  account  of,  even  by  the  most 
intelligent  and  progressive  growers.  The  Peninsula 
was  thought  to  be  the  home  of  the  peach,  that  home 
being  stored  with  inexhaustible  supplies,  laid  away  in  its 
soil,  of  potash  and  phosphoric  acid,  of  iron  and  of 
magnesia,  and  all  other  favorite  dishes  upon  which  the 
dainty  peach  feeds.  The  latter  grew  and  thrived,  and 
brought  riches  and  happiness  to  the  fortunate  growers, 


54  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

until,  after  a  time,  the  trees  in  his  locality  failed,  and  he 
said  to  himself,  "the  soil  is  exhausted  and  I  do  not 
"know  the  cause,  but  the  trees  won't  grow,  and  I  will 
"hie  me  down  the  State  and  take  up  new  land  and  grow 
"the  fruit  as  successfully  as  I  did  up  the  State."  So  he 
did.  and  so  have  his  sons  been  doing,  but  the  day  of 
reckoning  is  at  hand,  and  necessity,  the  great  mother  of 
invention,  will  find  out  the  cause  of  this  inability  of  the 
land  to  grow  the  peach  ;  will  find  out  the  cause  and  the 
reason  of  this  exhaustion  of  the  soil.  Will  find  out  the 
cause  ?  Why,  is  the  cause  a  hidden  one  ?  I  trow  not. 
Will  a  given  field  produce  wheat  year  after  year  without 
its  being  furnished  plant-food  ?  Will  a  given  field  pro- 
duce corn,  year  after  year,  without  proper  sustenance 
being  afforded  for  the  corn  ?  Will  the  bee  make  honey 
without  the  flower  ?  No  !  Nor  is  it  any  more  reasonable 
to  ask  that  the  land  will  produce  peaches  without  its 
being  supplied  with  food  for  the  peaches  to  feed  upon. 
Heretofore,  we  have  rested  satisfied  when  we  have 
peached  the  land  over,  and  settled  down,  thoroughly 
satisfied  of  its  exhaustion,  aud  that  there  was  no  remedy 
for  it.  It  may  be  assumed  that  peaches  have  gone  out. 
in  districts,  and  though  there  are  plenty  of  fields  in 
those  districts  which  have  never  been  planted  in 
peaches,  yet  if  we  plant  peaches  in  them  they  won't 
thrive,  showing  that  it  is  the  locality  and  not  the  soil. 
It  may  be  replied  here,  that  there  are  other  influences 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  55 

at  work  in  such  districts  beyond  the  absolute  exhaustion 
from  the  soil  of  Peach-tree  food,  and  the  answer  at  the 
proper  time  will  be  that  by  additions  of  improper  food 
to  the  soil,  the  peach,  as  it  were,  may  be  rendered 
dyspeptic,  and  parasitic  growths  may  be  engendered  and 
overwhelm  it  whilst  dwelling  in  the  very  halls  of  wealth 
and  luxury. 

The  first  factor  in  fertilizing  the  orchard  is  the  dead 
foliage  and  debris  of  the  trees,  with  the  dead  grasses 
and  weeds  dropping  and  decomposing,  and  again  being 
resolved  into  the  elements,  thus  furnishing  over  again 
plant-food.  In  a  healthy  orchard  this  is  an  important 
aid  to  growth,  but  in  an  orchard  with  diseased  wood  and 
foliage,  they  may  breed  disease  and  death,  by  the  pro- 
pagation of  fungi.  Organic  life  only  being  developed 
on  the  outside  of  the  earth's  crust,  where  it  can  receive 
the  light  and  heat  of  the  sun,  therefore,  these  are  ele- 
ments in  fertilization,  as  is  also  the  rain-water  which 
falls  from  heaven,  together  with  ammonia,  and  then, 
again,  the  impurities  of  the  atmosphere,  injurious  to 
animal  life  are  food  for  the  trees,  such  as  carbonic  acid, 
ammonia,  etc. 

Before  going  further  it  will  be  well  to  see  what  is  the 
composition  of  the  Peach  wood — healthy  and  diseased — 
and  see  if  we  can  find  what  elements  may  be  lacking,  or 
in  excess,  in  the  diseased  wood.     For  these  analyses  I 


56 


THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 


quote  from  the  report  of  the  Connecticut  State  Board  of 
Agriculture  for  1884.     The  analyses  are  as  follows  : 


Ash  of  Healthy  Tree.                    Ash  of  Diseased  Tree. 

Silica  and  matters  insoluble 

in  acid 5.38 

947 

Oxide  of  Iron i  .09 

....   2.09 

Lime 54.20     

1^4.. 0? 

Magnesia .  ,    9.49 

....    7.49 

Potash 16.31 

....  i^.Qi; 

Soda 1. 18 

....   1. 19 

Phosphoric  acid 4.34 

....  4.68 

Sulphuric  acid 6.90 

....  6.53 

Chlorine   46 

...        A.'K 

Total. 


99-35 


Total, 


99.88 


The  report  goes  on  to  state  that,  in  comparing  the 
above  analyses,  we  note  that  the  ash  of  diseased  twigs 
contains 

4.09  per  cent,  more    Silica,  etc., 


I.OO      " 

Oxide  of  Iron, 

.34  "   " 

Phosphoric  acid, 

.15    "      "        less 

Lime, 

2.00    "      " 

Magnesia, 

2.36    "      " 

Potash, 

.37    "      " 

Sulphuric  acid. 

than  the  ash  of  healthy  twigs. 

From  the  same  source 

I  take  a  copy  of  Dr.  Goessmann's  analysis  of  the  ash  of 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  57 

the  wood  of  a  Peach-tree  affected  with  Yellows.  It  con- 
tains 

0.93  per  cent,  more  Oxide  of  Iron, 

9.71     "       "         "  Lime, 

2.70    "       "         "  Magnesia, 

3.00    "      "       less  Phosphoric  acid, 

10.34    "      "         "  Potash, 

than  the  ash  of  healthy  trees.  Dr.  Goessmann  infers 
from  his  experiments  that  the  wood  and  fruits  of 
diseased  trees  contain  less  potash  and  more  lime  than 
the  healthy  wood  and  fruit. 

But,  again,   here  is  another  analysis  where    lo.ooo 
lbs.  of  diseased  twigs  would  contain 

5.2  lbs.  more  Silica, 


1.3  - 

" 

Oxide  of  Iron, 

4-5    " 

less 

Lime, 

57    " 

Magnesia, 

8.1    " 

Potash, 

0.3    " 

Soda, 

0.6    <• 

Phosphoric  acid. 

2.4    " 

Sulphuric  acid, 

.2    " 

Chlorine, 

than  the  healthy  twigs.  The  diseased  twigs  here  mani- 
fest as  compared  with  healthy  ones,  a  poverty  of  all  the 
ash  ingredients,  except  the  two  first.  The  most 
important  deficiencies   are   lime  and  potash,  magnesia 


58  THE   CULTIVAVION   OF   THE 

and  sulphuric  acid.  The  same  report  says  that  Drs. 
Goessmann  and  Penhallow  indicate  that  chlorine,  though 
in  small  quantity,  is  important  in  the  foliage,  as  a  means 
of  assisting  in  the  transfer  of  the  nutritive  matters  from 
the  leaves  to  the  buds,  and,  therefore,  must  not  be 
deficient  in  the  soil,  although  not  much  is  needed.  Dr. 
Goessmann  is  good  authority,  and  has  given  much  atten- 
tion to  the  peach  question,  and  if  the  diseased  tree 
really  does  contain  more  lime  than  the  healthy  tree,  then 
an  important  point,  I  think,  has  been  solved,  in  fertiliz- 
ing the  peach  orchard. 

By  comparison  of  the  analyses,  the  general  manures 
made  on  the  farm, with  their  potash,  soda,  iron,  magnesia, 
lime,  chlorine,  phosphoric  acid,  ammonia,  etc.,  ought  to 
be  almost  perfect  fertilizers  for  the  Peach  tree,  and  are 
so  considered  by  some  of  our  most  intelligent  and  suc- 
cessful growers.  Now  I  confess  that,  except  it  be 
thoroughly  composted,  and  every  part  of  its  organic 
matter  be  thoroughly  decomposed,  which  is  somewhat 
difficult  to  accomplish  in  a  reasonable  time,  I  am  becom- 
iug  somewhat  suspicious  of  barn-yard  manure  as  an 
article  of  diet  for  the  peach.  It  is  beginning  to  be 
noticed  by  more  than  one  observer  among  our  practical 
growers,  that  in  soils  made  rich  by  the  application  of 
barn-yard  manure  and  lime,  such  as  the  upper  New 
Castle  county  soils  have  been,  particularly  about 
Delaware  City,  where,   formerly,  were  such  flourishing 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  59 

orchards, ^the  Yellows  has  almost  irwariably  appeared 
and  destroyed,  with  ruthless  hand,  everything  before  it  ; 
and  I  have  personally,  particularly  observed,  that  yet, 
in  this  locality,  peaches  can  be  grown,  if  at  all,  only  on 
lands  which  have  not  received  the  heavy  dressings 
of  lime  and  grain-fed  manures,  which  have  been  so 
generously  applied  to  most  of  the  fine  farms  in  that 
locality.  I  incline  to  think  that  we  are  reaching  the 
bottom  of  some  of  the  peach  troubles,  and  that  this  very 
excellent  fertilizer,  barn-yard  manure,  causes  directly, 
or  indirectly,  the  development  of  the  germs  or  fungi 
engaged  in  sapping  the  life  of  the  Peach  tree.  If  I  am 
right  in  my  conjecture  of  this  apparent  effect  from  an 
apparent  cause,  we  will  condemn,  and  ought  to  condemn, 
the  application  of  barn-yard  manure  in  its  usual  form,  to 
the  orchard,  and  condemn  it  on  these  empirical  grounds 
alone  ;  and  I  yet  hope  that  this  empiricism  will  soon  be 
supplanted  by  solid  scientific  fact.  Of  these  matters  we 
shall  speak  again,  when  we  come  to  consider  the  diseases 
of  the  peach.  Now,  reasoning  from  a  chemical  stand- 
point, we  would  say,  apply 

LIME, 

and  thus  quicken  the  forces  of  decay,  and  destroy  the 
spores  of  the  fungi  which  may  come  from  the  manure. 
Practice  has  not  shown  that  to  be  effectual,  if  trouble 
comes  from  applying  raw  barn-yard  manure,  but  on  the 
other  hand,  where  they  have  been  applied  one  with  the 


6o  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Other,  the  fact  remains  that  there  the  peach  has  ceased 
to  thrive,  and  almost  ceased  to  live  at  all.  If  I  need 
lime  on  an  orchard,  it  would  be  on  one  not  under  eight 
years  of  age.  Where  the  soil  was  rather  stiff,  or  moist 
and  sour,  and  where  there  was  a  tendency  to  strong 
growth  of  grass  and  weeds.  I  would  use  not  over  forty 
bushels  of  slacked  lime,  broad-cast,  per  acre.  Here  it 
would  decompose  the  vegetable  elements,  correcting 
acidity,  and  probably  act  on  the  iron  salts,  and  more 
readily  cause  them  to  change  to  peroxides,  thus  fitting 
them  for  plant-food.  I  can  give  you  plenty  of  reasons 
why  lime  would  be  a  benefit  (caustic  or  quick-lime,  as 
generally  used,)  to  Peach  trees,  because  as  stated  above, 
it  decomposes  vegetable  elements,  corrects  acidity, 
changes  iron  salts,  and  is  most  destructive  to  mosses,  to 
lichens,  and  to  fungi ;  and  on  these  grounds  John  Rutter 
bases  his  very  sensible  reasons  for  using  quick-lime  on 
the  peach,  and  being  a  believer  in  the  germ  theory  as 
the  destroying  agent  of  the  tree,  he  advocates  the  use 
of  caustic  lime  and  potash  to  destroy  these  germs  and 
save  the  trees  ;  and  he  believes  he  has  accomplished  it, 
but  experience  has  not  yet  confirmed  it.  I  say  again,  I 
can  give  scientific  reasons  for  the  use  of  quick-lime  as  a 
fertilizer,  and  why  it  should  be  good  for  the  peach,  but 
again  I  say,  that  where  ground  has  been  fertilized  by 
lime  and  barn-yard  manures,  the  Yellows  has  asserted 
its  sway  and  annihilated  the  peach.     This  is  not  extra- 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  6l 

ordinary.  The  chemist  can  do  many  things  by  rule,  and 
chemical  laws  are  infallible,  but  he  cannot  use  the 
human  stomach  for  a  retort,  any  more  than  he  can  the 
cell  of  a  Peach  tree,  because  in  his  own  retort  he  can 
apply  chemical  laws,  and  in  the  case  of  the  human 
stomach  or  of  the  tree-cell,  he  can  only  apply  his  laws, 
subject  to  the  retarding  or  advancing  effects  of  vital 
action — OF  LIFE. 

The  peach  is  always  produced  on  the  wood  of  the 
previous  year,  and  the  development  of  this  wood  and  the 
general  appearance  of  the  trees  are  the  best  guides  to 
follow  in  fertilizing.  Should  the  wood  of  the  previous 
year,  if  the  season  has  been  an  ordinary  one,  not  look 
strong  and  healthy  and  not  have  made  a  general  average 
growth  of,  say,  seven  inches  in  length  and  the  buds  not 
full  and  vigorous  looking,  these  conditions  would  call  for 
fertilizing,  and  in  that  fertilizer  should  be  incorporated 
more  or  less  ammonia.  If  the  trees  were  vigorous  and 
doing  well,  then  I  would  use  fertilizers  containing  potash 
and  phosphoric  acid,  with  the  iron  and  chlorine,  etc., 
incidentally  contained.  Recollect  that  the  peach  is  a 
thorough-bred  among  fruit  trees,  needing  close  watching 
and  vigorous  culture  ;  its  food  should  be  accurately 
supplied,  and  it  should  neither  be  stinted  nor,  what  is 
equally  important,  must  it  be  overfed.  If  the  tree  is 
declining  it  needs  full  nourishment,  and  here  we  must 
give  it  the  proper  elements.     If  it  has  borne  a  large  crop 


62  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

of  fruit  the  previous  year,  we  must  give  it  extra  suste- 
nance, but  in  average  years  it  needs  only  a  well  regu- 
lated supply,  and  the  important  point  to  determine  is 
just  how  much  to  give  it.  It  will  be  observed  that  the 
average  supply  of  food  recommended  is  large,  and  such 
application  every  year  without  regard  to  the  before- 
mentioned  conditions  is,  in  my  opinion,  wrong.  We 
want  to  strike  moderate  and  regular  blows,  and  only  use 
the  sledge  now  and  again  to  accomplish  a  certain 
purpose. 

POTASH. 
Undoubtedly,  one  of  the  most  important  elements 
in  peach-food  is  Potash,  and  we  use  it  in  the  forms  of 
commercial  sulphate  or  muriate,  and  in  wood-ashes. 
Wood-ashes  contain  probably  all  elements  of  plant-food 
except  nitrogen,  and  the  elements  in  one  hundred 
pounds  of  ashes  would  cost  over  one  dollar  if  bought  at 
market  prices.  A  bushel  of  peach-tree  ashes  is  said  to 
represent  two  and  one-half  tons  of  dry  peach  wood,  and 
the  value  of  the  ashes  of  other  trees  varies  as  to  the 
woods.  Fifty  to  seventy-five  bushels  of  ashes  would  be 
a  strong  dressing  per  acre,  but  it  may  be  applied,  a 
shovelful  or  two  around  the  trees,  and  do  immense  good. 
Kainit  or  German  Potash-salt  is  a  valuable  fertilizer,  as 
may  be  seen  by  the  following  analysis: 

Sulphate  of  Potash 24.80  per  cent. 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia I4-30   "       " 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  63 

Chloride  of  Sodium 32.00    "  *' 

Chloride  of  Magnesia 12.62    "  " 

Moisture.,.. H-S^   "  " 

Insoluble  matter 1.92    "  " 

Total,  100.00 

The  common  salt  here  contained  I  consider  very- 
valuable  ;  it  is  destructive  to  germ-growth  and  its 
chlorine  is  advantageous.  Prof.  Maynard  of  Mass., 
says  that  potash  acts  by  setting  the  starch  in  motion,  by 
dissolving  this  and  assisting  leaf-vigor,  and  in  the 
leaves  assists  the  change  of  starch  into  sugar.  He 
thinks  the  chlorine  helps  in  this  process  and  for  this 
reason  he  prefers  the  muriate  of  potash,  but  the  above 
analysis  of  kainit  shows  considerable  chlorine,  besides 
other  valuable  plant-foods,  and  I  don't  hesitate  to 
recommend  it,  at  least  in  alternate  years,  with  the 
muriate. 

After  ploughing  in  the  spring,  apply  kainit  broad- 
cast, from  200  to  500  lbs  per  acre,  and  harrow  it  in.  Use 
more  or  less,  after  applying  the  rules  given  for  fertilizing. 
It  may  be  applied  in  the  autumn  in  the  same  quantity 
and  in  the  same  way  and  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
ground  and  be  ploughed  in  in  the  spring.  It  is  claimed 
to  sometimes  act  better  in  this  way.  It  has  the  faculty 
of  effecting  a  prompt  action  of  the  ammonia  of  the 
decomposing  organic  matters  it  comes  into  contact  with. 


64  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

It  is  recommended  in  using  kainit  on  grain  crops  to  sow 
the  autumn  before,  and  incorporate  it  with  lime  in  some 
cases,  to  eheck  too  free  chlorine  evolvement,  which  might 
injure  the  grain-plant.  No  such  care,  I  believe,  need  be 
taken  in  applying  it  to  fruit  trees.  I  believe  I  have 
previously  stated  that  I  am  not  much  in  favor  of  fertiliz- 
ing young  trees  on  good  soil  until  after  they  have  borne 
the  first  crop,  which  should  be  the  third  or  fourth 
season,  unless  I  see  a  special  necessity,  and  in  applying 
potash  fertilizers,  especially  in  their  crude  state,  don't 
apply  them  in  contact  with  the  young  trees  or  they  will 
seriously  injure,  if  not  kill  them. 

Potash  is  known  to  the  chemist  as  Potassium  Oxide, 
and  this  is  its  valuable  fertilizing  ingredient.  It  must  be 
soluble  in  water  as  plant-food  and  we  get  it  as  sulphate 
and  muriate  for  agricultural  purposes.  We  have  spoken 
of  the  sulphate  in  kainit.  The  sulphate-salt  is  expen- 
sive and  we  use,  generally,  when  we  want  a  potash 
fertilizer,  the  muriate  known  to  the  chemist  as  Potassium 
Chloride.  The  muriate  of  Potash  is  valuable  to  the  peach 
not  only  for  its  potash,  but  for  the  chlorine  ;  and,  as  I 
said  before,  this  chlorine  is  useful  in  the  leaf  in  the  pro- 
cess of  changing  starch  to  sugar,  which  process  is  said 
to  go  on  at  night,  and  Dr.  Goessmann  says  the  muriate 
has  the  faculty  beyond  the  sulphate  of  liquefying  the 
starch  in  the  cells  and  setting  it  in  motion,  thus  pro- 
moting healthy  nutrition.     Be  this  as  it  may,   it  gives 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  6$ 

grand  results  in  peach  culture.     Muriate  of  Potash  may 
be  applied  to  the  peach  tree  after  ploughing,  by  scat- 
tering from  two  to  five  lbs.  around  the  tree,  using  the 
larger  quantity  on  large  trees  only ;  keeping  it  at  least 
one  foot  from  the  base  of  the  tree,  and  scattering  as  far 
as  the  branches  extend.     It  may  be  employed  in  connec- 
tion with  acid  phosphate  (commonly  so  called)  in  the 
same  proportions  and  in  the  same  way,  and  it  may  be 
used  with  numerous  other  matters,  examples  of  which 
we  will  presently  give  in  formulae.     Phosphoric  acid  is 
very  important  food  for  the  tree  and  we  apply  it  gener- 
ally in  the  form  of  super-phosphate  alone,  or  joined  with 
potash,  ammonia,  magnesia,  etc.     Plain  super-phosphate 
may  be  drilled  in,  after  ploughing  and  harrowing  in  the 
spring,  from  200  to    500  lbs.  per  acre.     Ammonia  had 
better  be  applied  in  a  commercial  fertilizer  containing 
.02  to  .03  per  cent,  ammonia  with  Potash  and  phosphoric 
acid,  and  put  on  at  the  rate  of  200  to  400  lbs.  per  acre. 
There  is,  generally,  sufficient  magnesia  in  the  soil,  but,  if 
needed,  it  can  be  applied  as  given  in  some  of  the  formulcC 
given   in    another   place.     Iron    may  be  needed    in  the 
peach,  and    if  I    had    an    orchard    that  was  stubbornly 
unthrifty  I  should    try  iron,  among   other  things.     My 
friend.  Dr.  C.  Elton  Buck,  the  accomplished  chemist  of 
the  Walton  and  Whann  Company,  tells  me  that  there 
is,  in  his  opinion,  iron  sufficient  in  the  Peninsula  soil  for 
peaches,  and  it  is  constantly  being  thrown  up  to  the  air 
5 


66  THE   CULTIVATION   OF  THE 

for  use  by  cultivation,  and  changed  to  the  peroxide,  the 
form  in  which  it  is  available  for  plant-food.  The  color 
of  all  soils  is,  probably,  produced  by  iron,  and,  of  course, 
nearly  all  soils  contain  it,  and  tillage  renders  it  available. 
Still,  if  my  orchard  did  not  thrive  I  would  use  some  iron 
about  the  trees  in  a  metallic  state.  Get  the  scrapings  of 
a  blacksmith-shop,  especially  where  horses  are  shod, 
and  thus  get  the  hoof-parings,  etc.,  and  iron-scales. 
Also  iron-scales  from  rolling-mills,  etc.  A  salt  of  iron 
in  a  fertilizer  with  phosphoric  acid,  etc.,  would  be  expen- 
sive and  of  doubtful  propriety,  as  it  might  cause  the 
reversion  of  the  phosphoric  acid  to  its  insoluble  state  as 
phosphate  of  iron  and  alumina,  which  exists  in  crude 
phosphate.  The  scales  of  rolling-mills,  blacksmiths' 
forges,  etc..  are  generally  the  magnetic  oxide  of  iron, 
and  they  get  a  little  oxygen  from  the  air  and  from 
moisture.  Subject  them  to  damp  earth,  etc.,  by  putting 
them  around  the  tree,  and  they  change  to  the  hydrated 
peroxide  of  iron,  the  form  of  iron  available  as  plant-food. 
The  chemist,  I  believe,  would  tell  you  that  they  change 
from  FE3O4  to  FEgOg-FHaO. 

Pruning  may  act  directly  as  a  fertilizer.  When  the 
trees  languish,  and  especially  if  old,  cut  out  the  middles 
well,  and  cut  back  the  new  wood  one-half,  or  top  them 
altogether,  and  let  a  new  top  come  out  with  strong  help 
from  fertilizers.  In  some  places  old  orchards  are  doing 
well  and  new  orchards  prematuring.      It  is  my  advice  to 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  6/ 

keep  an  old  orchard  as  long  as  it  can  possibly  be  made  to 
yield  fair  returns.  A  failing  orchard  may  be  seeded  to 
clover  in  the  spring  and  ploughed  under,  the  next  June  a 
year,  thus  getting  much  nitrogen,  etc.,  from  the  crop  of 
clover.  There  is  a  prevailing  opinion  that  clover  in  a 
peach  orchard  is  death  to  the  trees.  Lack  of  cultivation 
for  the  time  is  probably  the  trouble.  I  recommend  the 
appended  formulae  to  be  applied  according  to  the  rules 
given  for  fertilizing  the  Peach  tree.  For  an  orchard 
much  run  down  with  new  wood  under  an  average  of 
nine  to  twelve  inches,  with  fruit  lacking  color  and  flavor, 
the  following  is  a  good  formula,  and  is  recommended  by 
Prof  Maynard  in  part  : 

Formula   No.  i. 

Acid  phosphate 400  lbs. 

Muriate  potash 150     " 

Crude  sulphate  magnesia loo     " 

Azotin I2C     <' 

applied  to  each  acre.  This  is  a  very  strong  dressing  and 
I  would  apply  it  only  in  case  of  Yellows,  or  trees  rapidly 
declining  from  any  cause.  One-half  or  one-third  the 
quantity  may  be  applied,  as  occasion  requires.  Potash 
alone  is  said  to  cause  late  growth.  Phosphoric  acid  causes 
early  growth,  and  magnesia  helps  to  diffuse  and  retain 
the  potash  in  the  soil,  and  helps  the  flavor  of  the  peach, 
whilst  ammonia  makes  the  wood  and  improves  the  color. 


68  the  cultivation  of  the 

Formula  No.  2. 

Acid  phosphate 1600  lbs. 

Muriate  potash 400     " 

Apply  this  by  drilling  200  to  400  lbs.  per  acre,  in  the 
spring,  after  first  ploughing  and  harrowing.  Pure  ground 
bone,  200  to  600  lbs.  to  the  acre,  may  be  used  alone  or 
in  combination.  It  will  cause  the  tissues  of  the  tree  to 
mature. 

Here  is  a  formula  that  has  been  recommended  for 
worn  out  trees.  I  have  never  tried  it.  Before  giving 
this  I  will  state  that  I  have  made  some  experiments, 
looking  to  furnishing  a  supply  of  prussic  acid  to  the 
peach,  but  as  yet  have  no  success  to  report. 

Formula  No.  3. 

Kieserite 80  lbs. 

Muriate  Potash 500     *' 

Bone-Black . 1420     " 

Total,  2000 

Apply  from  three  to  nine  lbs.  to  each  tree,  beginning 
within  six  inches  of  the  trunk  and  extending  out  as  far 
as  the  branches  extend.  Apply  after  ploughing,  and 
then  harrow  in. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  give  any  great  number  of 
formulae.  Select  any  good  fertilizer  made  by  a  reliable 
firm    and  use  according  to  the  rules  laid  down  in  this 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  ^9 

book.  If  you  want  only  kainit,  use  it  alone  or  join  it 
with  acid  phosphate,  one  part  to  two  of  the  latter,  and 
apply  from  200  to  600  lbs.  to  the  acre.  If  you  want 
potash,  use  any  good  potash  and  acid  fertilizer  in  quan- 
tities to  be  regulated  by  the  rules  given,  and  if  you 
think  you  need  ammonia  in  addition  to  the  phosphoric 
acid  and  potash,  then  use  a  good  super-phosphate  with, 
say  .03  per  cent  of  ammonia,  and  apply  as  occasion 
requires;  thus  you  will  give  all  the  food  the  peach-tree 
needs  for  honest  crops  from  well-fed  trees. 

The  peach-tree  bark  often  becomes  affected  with 
lice  {Aphis  Persica)  and  other  pests,  and  it  is  important 
to  destroy  them  ;  for  this  purpose  the  following  wash 
may  be  recommended,  to  be  applied  with  a  swab,  work- 
ing it  well  into  the  crevices  of  the  bark,  and  well  down 
to  the  roots.  It  may  be  used  as  often  as  necessary  and 
is,  in  a  measure, a  fertilizer  from  the  soap, etc., contained. 
TREE  WASH. 
For  100  trees  take  four  fluid  ounces  crude  carbolic 
acid,  one  quart  soft  soap,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  one 
half-gallon  boiling  water.  Let  it  stand  twenty-four 
hours,  then  add  two  gallons  rain-water,  stirring  all  the 
time  you  are  swabbing  it  on  the  trees.  Always  apply 
washes  about  June  first,  as  they  kill  eggs  and  drive  off 
moths,  etc.  Other  washes  may  be  made  by  adding  a 
quart  or  two  of  crude  carbolic  acid  to  a  half  barrel  of 
whitewash,  or  by  adding  sulphur  to  whitewash,  a  handful 


70  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

to  the  gallon.  Whilst  on  the  subject  of  washes  let  me 
recommend,  in  trimming  diseased  trees,  or  even  healthy- 
trees,  the  use  of  germicides  on  your  saw  or  knife,  before 
passing  from  one  tree  to  another,  as  I  believe  disease 
germs  may  be  carried,  and  thus  healthy  trees  become 
inoculated.  This  should  especially  be  done  when  trees 
have  Peach-yellows  or  Pear-blight. 

GERMICIDES   FOR   THE   SAW   OR    KNIFE. 

Linseed  Oil i  quart. 

Crude  carbolic  acid 4  fluid  ounces. 

Mix  them  and  grease  the  saw  or  knife. 

Another  may  be  made  by  dissolving  seven  and  one- 
half  grains  corrosive  sublimate  in  one  gallon  hot  water  ; 
dip  the  saw  or  knife  in  this  before  using  on  a  second  tree, 
or  probably  what  would  be  better  in  many  cases  of 
Peach- Yellows  and  Pear-blight  on  a  second  branch. 
The  objection  to  this  last  is  that  it  is  very  poisonous  and 
might  be  mistaken  for  water,  being  colorless  ;  therefore, 
it  should  be  handled,  if  used  at  all,  with  the  greatest 
care.  If  any  of  it  should  be  swallowed,  white  of  egg^ 
internally,  will  render  it  harmless.  The  oil  and  carbolic 
acid  is  also  poisonous,  but  the  odor  and  other  physical 
properties  make  it  much  safer.  Thomas  Taylor, 
microscopist  at  the  Agricultural  Department,  Washing- 
ton, D.  C,  suggests,  in  order  to  destroy  the  spores 
which  may  be  a  cause  of  Yellows  and  other  diseases,  the 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  /I 

application  of  hot  lye  to  the  bark  and  roots  of  diseased 
trees.  On  the  same  principle,  he  advocates  the  applica- 
tion of  alkaline  washes  and  washes  of  sulphates  and 
their  compounds.  Here  copperas,  one  pound  to  the 
gallon  of  water,  might  do  good  or  even  a  half-pound  to 
the  gallon.  He  also  thinks  that  sulphide  of  calcium  may 
be  appled  with  good  effect,  and  that  anything  which 
protects  the  trunk  and  the  limbs  will  do  good.  White- 
wash made  from  gas  lime  will  contain  sufficient  sulphide 
of  calcium  for  the  purpose,  and  is  therefore  a  valuable 
tree  wash. 


Chapter  V. 

DISEASES   AND   ENEMIES   OF    THE   PEACH. 


YELLOWS. 

I  believe  that  Yellows  is  a  bacterial  disease,  as  is 
now  understood.  I  believe  these  bacteria  exist  in  the 
healthy  tree  and  even  in  healthy  men,  but  when  their 
number  becomes  greatly  increased,  which  may  take 
place  rapidly  under  favorable  circumstances  to  an 
infinitesimal  number,  they  become  a  disease.  They, 
we  are  taught  to  believe,  develope  into  fungi,  (mushroom 
growths,)  probably  through  Mycelia  (the  spawn  of  fungi.) 
Bacteria  are  monads,  (monads  are  ultimate  atoms,  a 
primary  division  of  matter,)  having  a  low,  vegetable 
life,  and  are  liable  to  appear  in  any  substance  containing 
life.  They  are  of  different  forms,  and  move  actively,  and 
are,  of  course,  microscopic.  They  probably  act  as 
ferments,  as  in  the  vegetable-cells  in  the  transformation 
of  starch  into  sugar.  They  come  from  the  air,  where, 
probably,  their  origin  is  suspended,  and  with  a  certain 
development,  which  the  microscope  has  not  yet  dis- 
covered, before  they  can  act  as  a  ferment  in  health  and 
disease,  either  in  animal  or  vegetable  life.     They  do  not 


74  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

come  from  spontaneous  generation,  in  my  opinion,  I  am 
no  believer  in  spontaneous  generation.  In  this  day  of 
doubt  and  trial  I  say  this  most  emphatically.  I  see  God 
in  nature  everywhere,  from  the  inception  of  this  micro- 
scopic ultimate  atom,  to  the  grand  creation  of  Man — 
mysterious,  wonderful,  and  complex  in  being.  These 
bacteria  act  as  organic  ferments,  (like  the  torulae,  the 
fungi  of  yeast,)  and  are,  probably  the  means,  or  chief 
means,  of  changing  starch  into  sugar  in  the  tree,  etc., 
provided  they  exist  in  normal  and  healthy  numbers. 
Now,  from  any  cause  let  these  bacteria  increase  a  million 
fold  or  more,  as  they  may  rapidly  do,  then  they  become 
a  source  of  disease,  and  here,  to  my  mind,  we  have  the 
cause  of  Yellows  in  the  peach.  I  might  write  pages 
about  these  low  orders  of  life,  vegetable  and  animal,  yet 
only  weary  the  reader,  and  in  the  end  say  no  more  to 
the  point  than  I  have  said.  These  bacteria  which  I  say 
do  exist  in  healthy  trees,  becoming  increased  indefinitely, 
cause  disease.  The  nutrition  of  the  tree  is  seriously 
interfered  with,  or  ceases  altogether,  because  the  cell- 
action  is  checked  or  stopped  ;  the  change  of  starch  into 
sugar  is  checked  or  stopped.  All  these  being  checked 
means  a  diseased  tree  ;  all  these  being  stopped  means  a 
dead  tree — the  cessation  of  cell-action.  These  changes 
may  occur  suddenly,  and  we  have  acute  or  rapid 
Yellows,  the  tree  soon  dying,  Should  these  changes 
occur  less  suddenly,  we  have  chronic  or  slow  Yellows, 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR,  75 

and  then  the  tree  declines  and  gradually  dies,  consuming 
in  the  act  of  dying  one  or  more  years,  very  similar  to  a 
sorry  victim  of  consumption  among  men.  I  believe 
Yellows  to  be  a  disease  of  the  budded  tree,  a  disease  of 
progress  and  civilization,  as  it  were,  among  trees,  a 
disease  that  exists  only  among  trees  crowded  together 
with  improper  treatment  and  cultivation,  just  as  diseases 
from  the  same  cause  (zymotic  or  fermentive  diseases) 
are  developed  in  man,  when  he  is  thrown  together  in 
gregarious  masses,  without  proper  hygienic  and  dietetic 
supervision.  In  man  we  have  fevers,  cholera,  measles 
and  other  horrors,  and  in  the  peach.  Yellows  and  other 
troubles,  and  in  the  pear,  blight,  and  so  on  through 
nature.  I  have  seen  Yellows  in  the  natural  tree.  The 
natural  tree  may  get  the  Yellows  because  it  is  a  peach, 
but  is  not  so  likely  to  suffer  from  it — just  as  the  primitive 
man  did  not  probably  have  cholera  or  zymotic  fevers  or 
measles.  Neither  inherited  the  tendencies  from  their 
progenitors,  nor  were  the  germs  active,  if  present,  nor 
were  they  surrounded  by  the  luxuries  of  an  advanced 
civilization  to  the  degree  of  the  modern  man,  or  the 
budded  peach,  and  for  these  reasons,  as  we  see  from 
observation  in  life,  generally,  where  there  is  high 
development  and  high  culture  of  the  animal  or  veget- 
able, it  is  more  obnoxious  to  disease.  I  incline  to  the 
opinion  from  practical,  and  not  as  yet  from  scientific, 
data,    that    Peach- Yellows    is    contagious,    and    can    be 


-^6  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

carried  from  tree  to  tree  through  diseased  seed,  through 
diseased  buds,  through  proximity  of  soil,  and  even  by 
pruning  instruments  going  from  diseased  to  healthy 
trees.  So  much  am  I  impressed  by  this  suspicion,  that 
I  would  not  haul  young  trees  in  a  wagon,  which  had 
shortly  before,  hauled  the  cuttings  from  pruning  a 
diseased  orchard,  unless  the  wagon  had  been  fumigated. 
I  believe  this  disease-germ  may  be  both  in  the  soil  and 
in  the  tree,  after  the  soil  and  tree  have  been  placed  by 
circumstances  in  a  condition  to  develop  it,  and  for  this 
reason  I  would  not  plant  a  new  orchard,  at  once,  on 
the  site  from  which  a  diseased  orchard  had  been  removed. 
I  believe  ploughing  and  fertilizing,  and  one  year  of 
upturned  exposure  without  cropping,  will  be  apt  to 
destroy  the  disease-germ,  and  peaches  might  be  planted 
again,  but  I  should  never  recommend  this  plan  if  other 
land  were  available.  Now  as  to  the  conditions  favorable 
to  the  production  of  this  germ  of  Yellows,  I  believe  it 
is  most  likely  to  be  developed  where  peaches  have  been 
planted  in  one  locality  in  large  numbers  for  a  series  of 
years,  where  orchards  have  been  cropped  after  their 
second  year,  where  culture  and  fertilization  have  been 
neglected  or  omitted,  and  where  the  land  had  previously 
been  made  rich  (and  was  so  when  the  trees  were 
planted)  by  lime  and  barn-yard  or  stable  manure,  where 
the  trees  have  been  raised  from  the  seed  of  budded 
trees,  and   thus    have   been    propagated  back  and    not 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  -JJ 

advanced,  where  inattention  has  been  the  rule  in  prun- 
ing, and  to  digging  out  and  burning  diseased  trees  at 
the  first  start  of  the  disease.  As  to  lime  and  manure, 
they  contain  the  elements  of  plant-food  for  the  Peach- 
tree,  and  really  are  sure  fertilizers  for  the  trees,  but 
somehow  in  land  enriched  by  them  the  Yellows  appears 
to  thrive,  and  we  know  this  only  empirically  as  yet,  and 
not  scientifically.  Experience  is  showing  that  potash  is 
a  remedy  for  Yellows,  and  we  know  that  lime  causes  an 
exhaustion  of  potash  in  the  soil,  because  it  decomposes 
rocks,  stones,  sand,  etc.,  containing  it,  and  improperly 
composted  manure  may  breed  the  disease-germs  during 
its  decomposition.  These  are  facts,  probably,  and  seem 
to  be  a  finger-board  on  the  road  to  the  solution  of  the 
question.  As  to  developing  the  Yellows,  over-fed  trees 
may  have  the  bacteria  increased  in  them  beyond  the 
health-ratio,  just  as  well  as  under-fed  trees,  and  here  is  a 
reason  we  should  study  so  carefully  the  fertilization  of 
each  separate  tree.  I  believe  that  if  the  rules  I  have 
laid  down  in  this  regard  be  followed,  much  good  may  be 
accomplished  by  avoiding  the  production  of  the  disease. 

These  disease-germs  in  the  sap  of  the  tree,  or  even 
in  the  ground,  are  really  benefited  by  irregular  seasons 
as  to  temperature,  whilst  the  vegetable  organism  of  the 
tree  is  injured,  and  hence,  what,  as  peach  growers,  we 
fear  most,  is  not  so  much  the  cold  season  within  reason- 
able bounds,  as  the  irregular  season  of  heat  and  cold. 


yS  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

and  often  during  one  of  these  seasons  we  know  that 
Yellows  flourishes  ;  I  think  this  is  a  practical  proof  of  its 
germ-origin.  Thos.  Taylor,  of  the  Agricultural  Depart- 
ment, Washington,  has  examined  and  experimented 
with  the  bark  of  healthy  and  unhealthy  Peach  trees,  and 
found  a  fungus  in  the  unhealthy,  the  healthy  bark  being 
free  from  fungi.  Mr.  Taylor  had  leaves  of  the  healthy 
and  unhealthy  trees  analyzed,  and  found  as  follows  : 

Healthy  Peach  Leaves.  Unhealthy  Peach  Leaves. 

Moisture 29.20   36.9 

Organic  Matter 63.22    59.4 

Ash 7.58 3.7 


Total    100.00         Total, 100.00 

Here,  in  the  unhealthy  tree  there  is  a  deficiency  of 
ash  ;  there  is  less  organic  matter  and  more  moisture  than 
in  healthy  leaves.  Now,  Mr.  Taylor  says,  as  leaves  don't 
absorb  earthy  matter  from  the  atmosphere,  it  is  evident 
that  the  cellular  structure  of  the  tree  has  failed  to 
perform  its  functions,  for  had  the  ascending  sap  carried 
up  potash,  lime,  or  other  earthy  matter,  the  leaves  would 
have  been  stored  with  them,  since  they  can't  evaporate 
them.  This  deficiency  of  earthy  matters  in  the  leaves 
may  account  for  the  absence  of  ash  in  the  fruit.  If  the 
leaves  elaborate  juice  for  the  growth  of  the  fruit,  the 
leaves  being  deprived  of  proper  nourishment,  the  fruit 
cannot  mature.     Now  trees   with   yellows,  fruit  earlier 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  79 

and  prematurely,  and  prematurely  decay.  The  presence 
of  more  sap  in  the  unhealthy,  than  in  the  healthy,  tree 
indicates  an  earlier  and  greater  flow  in  the  former  than 
in  the  latter.  The  presence  of  watery  sap  in  the  leaves, 
twigs  and  buds,  would  induce,  naturally,  an  early  growth 
of  fruit  and  premature  decay.  Thus  we  argue  that  the 
disease  is  rather  in  the  body  of  the  tree  and  in  the  roots, 
and  that  the  leaves  only  suffer  from  this  disease,  second- 
arily. Before  proceeding  further,  I  want  to  lay  before 
the  reader  the  present  status  of  the  germ-theory  of  dis- 
ease— and  this  applies,  as  well,  to  the  vegetable  as  to  the 
animal  kingdom.  Cohn  calls  all  these  disease-germs, 
Schizomycctes,  although  Bacteria  is  generally  used  in 
the  same  sense,  but,  etymologically,  the  latter  only 
apply  to  the  rod-shaped  kind.  Cohn  makes  four  forms 
of  Schizomycetes,  according  to  Flint.  First,  Micro- 
cocci, round  granules,  very  minute  ;  second,  Micro-bacteria, 
rod-shaped  cells  ;  third,  Desmo-bacteria  or  Bacilli,  also 
rod-shaped  longer  than  Micro-bacteria  ;  fourth,  Spiro- 
bacteria,  spiral-shaped  cells,  or  organism. 

To  show  the  power  of  reproduction  of  these  germs, 
it  is  said  that  one  of  them  can  give  rise  to  100,000 
individuals  of  its  kind  in  seven  hours.  Think  of  it ! 
suppose  a  healthy  peach  tree  has  10,000,  then  conditions 
favorable  to  disease  surround  it  and  in  seven  hours  there 
are  1,000,000,000  Bacteria.  After  a  while,  when  this 
matter  is  properly  cared  for,  we  will  find  out  the  peculiar 


80  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

form  of  Bacteria  that  causes  peach-yellows,  and  I  do 
not  despair  of  a  remedy  following  this  discovery.  The 
world  moves — science  is  progressive — God  reigns. 

SYMPTOMS    OF     YELLOWS. 

Along  the  branches  of  a  tree,  perhaps  along  one 
branch,  perhaps  on  several,  or  all  of  the  branches,  but 
not  often  on  all,  for  the  tree  dies  before  all  become 
affected,  we  see,  growing  perpendicularly,  and  generally 
on  the  upper  side,  slender,  wiry  shoots,  some  long,  some 
short,  with  mean,  starved-looking  leaves.  Then,  in  the 
second  place,  we  have  the  fruit  ripening  prematurely, 
from  fifteen  to  thirty  days  before  it  should  be  ripe.  It  is 
spotted  with  beautiful  red,  or  entirely  colored — the  fatal 
hectic  flush — and  is  of  full  size  and  handsome. 

Then  we  have  the  yellow,  sickly-looking  foliage,  and 
the  fruit  lacks  flavor.  If  the  tree  lives  until  the  second 
year,  the  fruit  is  reduced  greatly  in  size,  to  one-half  or 
one-fourth,  is  mean-looking  and  poor,  yet  still  having 
marks  of  the  beautiful  red  in  spots,  or  coloring  half,  or 
more,  of  the  peach.  The  color  runs  into  the  peach 
around  the  stone.  In  some  trees  the  trouble  may  come 
in  the  fruit  the  first  year,  and  not  until  the  second  year 
may  the  wiry  shoots,  characteristic  of  the  disease  appear. 
The  tree  may  die  very  rapidly  in  a  few  weeks,  or  even 
days,  but  usually  it  lasts  two  seasons,  and  in  some  cases 
trees  may  linger,  if  let  alone,  for  from  three  to  five 
years. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  8l 

The  disease  appears  to  be  confined  to  the  parts  of 
the  tree  above  the  ground,  no  changes  having  yet  been 
observed  in  the  roots — but  I  must  say  that,  as  yet,  they 
never  have  been  thoroughly  and  scientifically  examined 
through  a  series  of  cases.  The  disease  exists  in  patches 
in  an  orchard,  and  does  not  take  trees  in  rotation  ;  yet, 
when  we  have  one,  more  always,  sooner  or  later,  sur- 
round it. 

Yellows  has  been  known  on  this  peninsula  since  the 
war  of  1812,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  introduced 
from  Pennsylvania,  by  carrying  down  improved  trees,  but 
it  never  amounted  to  a  scourge  until  large  orchards 
began  to  be  cultivated  from  budded  fruit. 

REMEDIES   FOR   YELLOWS. 

1st. — Plant  only  natural  seed  ;  cull  the  seed 
thoroughly,  using  only  the  best  specimens. 

2d. — Use  only  choice  buds  from  choice  trees  in 
every  way  healthy,  and  from  trees  that  have  been  raised 
from  natural  seed  as  far  back  as  possible,  and  budded 
only  from  such  stock. 

3rd. — Use  care  in  selecting  the  site  of  the  orchard 
by  rules  before  laid  down. 

4th. — Cultivate  thoroughly  by  methods  heretofore 
given. 

5th. — Prune  judiciously.  If  a  tree  is  attacked,  cut 
out  all  diseased  parts  at  once,  and  burn  them  ;  cut  back 


82  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

the  new  wood  at  least  one-half,  and  fertilize  freely  ;  use 
the  carbolic  acid  tree-washes.  If  the  next  season  the 
tree  has  not  thoroughly  revived,  pull  it  out  root  and 
branch  and  burn  it  ;  scatter  muriate  of  potash  freely 
in  the  hole,  and  fill  it  up  ;  don't  plant  another  tree  here 
until  next  season. 

6th. — If  the  tree  is  bark-bound  and  the  sap  appears 
deficient,  slit  the  trunk  and  the  large  branches  on  two 
sides  for  their  whole  extent,  cutting  through  the  bark 
down  to  the  wood. 

7th. — Avoid  the  use  of  raw  manures  of  all  kinds  in 
the  orchard,  and  use  lime  very  sparingly,  if  at  all,  as  a 
fertilizer,  for  in  the  absence  of  potash,  the  tree  appears 
to  take  from  the  soil  too  large  a  percentage  of  lime  to 
supply  its  average  need.  Use  tree-washes  if  insects 
appear  in  the  bark  of  any  or  all  trees  in  the  orchard. 

8th.- — In  fertilizing,  use,  chiefly.  Chemical  Fertilizers, 
by  the  rules  given,  and  especially  those  containing  some 
salt  of  potash  ;  be  careful  to  worm  the  trees,  if  appear- 
ances indicate  their  presence.  I  would  here  say  that 
worming  is  not  as  much  practised  as  formerly — but  this 
is  no  reason,  nor  is  there  any  other  reason  that  I  know 
of,  why  vigilance  in  this  respect  should  be  relaxed. 

In  the  proceedings  of  the  New  Jersey  State  Horti- 
cultural Society,  at  its  tenth  annual  meeting,  held  at 
Trenton,    Dec.  29th  and  30th,  1884,  I  find  a  paper  read 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  83 

by  Prof.  S.  T.  Maynard  of  the  Botanic  Department  of 
the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  which  is  so 
interesting  and  which  I  feel  presents  facts  of  such  value 
that  I  am  sure  it  will  be  well  worth  the  space  it  will 
occupy,  and  I  give  it  to  my  readers  almost  entire.  As 
Prof.  Maynard  stated,  he  presented  the  subject  from  a 
New  England  stand-point,  and  the  reader  must  remem- 
ber that  New  England  differs  widely  from  the  Peninsula, 
in  both  soil  and  climate. 

"In  looking  over  the  history  of  peach-culture  in 
New  England,  we  find  that,  when  first  planted  in  the 
early  days  of  its  settlement,  the  trees  were  very  easily 
grown,  and  produced  large  crops  of  delicious  fruit,  but 
soon  that  fell  destroyer  of  the  peach — the  yellows — 
made  its  appearance.  We  are  told  it  was  very  destruc- 
tive one  hundred  and  twenty  years  ago,  and  yet  peaches 
continue  to  be  planted,  grow  and  die,  new  trees  are 
planted,  bear  and  die,  and  still  the  process  goes  on.  With 
us,  the  peach  is  most  succesfuUy  grown  on  high,  well 
drained,  loamy  soil.  The  exposure,  whether  north, 
south,  east  or  west,  seems  to  make  but  little  difference 
as  to  the  hardiness  of  the  trees,  but  the  fruit  is  generally 
of  better  quality  on  a  southern  slope,  than  upon  a 
northern  one. 

About  fifteen  years  ago  a  lot  of  some  one  hundred 
trees  were  planted  upon  a  light,  stony  soil,  sloping  to  the 
south,  and  protected  by  a  heavy  growth  of  woods  on  the 


84  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

north,  about  one  hundred  rods  from  the  orchard.  For 
the  first  two  years  they  were  rather  neglected,  but  the 
third  season  they  were  carefully  pruned,  and  carefully  ex- 
amined for  borers,  which  were  destroyed  when  found  ;  soon 
indications  of  disease  began  to  appear,  and,  to  counteract 
its  effect,  various  substances  were  applied  to  the  soil,  in 
addition  to  careful  and  severe  pruning  and  thorough  cul- 
tivation. The  first  application  was  stable  manure,  but 
while  this  seemed  to  benefit  some  of  the  trees,  some  of 
them  failed  to  come  to  time.  The  next  thing  used  was 
the  sweepings  from  a  blacksmith's  shop,  which  contain, 
in  addition  to  droppings  from  animals,  many  hoof- 
parings  and  iron-filings  ;  these  were,  perhaps,  rather  more 
beneficial  than  the  first  material  used.  About  this  time, 
under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Goessmann,  special  fertilizers 
of  various  kinds  were  applied,  and,  by  repeated  experi- 
ments, it  was  found  that  bone  and  potash,  with  a  little 
magnesia,  gave  the  best  results.  The  amount  of  each 
of  these  materials  recommended  was,  as  follows  : 

400  lbs.  (50  lbs.  PO5  )  of  acid  bone  phosphate,  150 
to  200  lbs.  of  Muriate  of  Potash,  (100  to  150  lbs.  potash,) 
and  100  lbs.  of  crude  Sulphate  of  Magnesia  per  acre. 
This  should  be  applied  in  the  autumn,  just  belore  the 
ground  freezes,  or  very  early  in  the  spring,  and  well 
worked  into  the  soil  for  a  space  of  from  five  to  ten  feet 
in  diameter  under  the  tree. 

The  amount  of  this  fertilizer  used,  should,  however, 
vary  with  different  soils,  and  it  will  be  found  sometimes 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  85 

necessary  to  add  nitrogenous  matter  if  the  trees  fail  to 
make  a  satisfactory  amount  of  wood.  The  result  of  the  use 
of  this  formula  is,  that  we  now  have  trees  that  are  fifteen 
years  old,  that  have  borne  five  or  six  good  ciops  of  fruit, 
and  are,  at  present,  apparently  in  perfect  health, 
although  many  of  them  have  shown  unmistakable  signs 
of  the  disease,  and  recovered  from  it.  The  disease  known 
as  the  Yellows  with  us,  takes  two  forms  ;  first,  a  very 
active  form,  which  often  attacks  trees  that  have  been 
injured  by  the  cold  after  seasons  of  late  growth,  and  it 
requires  but  a  few  days  to  destroy  the  entire  tree,  except 
the  roots,  which  often  remain  alive  for  a  long  time  after 
the  top  is  dead.  The  other,  and  most  common  form,  is 
indicated  by  a  yellowish,  sickly  look,  during  the  entire 
growing  season,  and  the  premature  ripening  of  the  fruit. 
The  fruit  is  always  unusually  high  colored,  sometimes 
the  flesh  is  blood-red,  and  its  brilliant  color  reminds  one 
of  the  hectic  flush  on  the  cheek  of  the  consumptive  ; 
there  is  also  often  a  bitter,  unpleasant  flavor  to  the  fruit. 
This  disease  is  always  accompanied  by  minute  uni-cellular 
plant-growths,  similar  to  those  found  in  blighted  pear 
trees,  or  in  fermenting  ensilage,  in  fact,  resembling  those 
organisms  that  always  accompany  fermenting  or  decom- 
posing animal  or  plant  tissue.  (This  shows  why  we 
should  not  use  raw  manures. — J.  J.  Black.)  The  germs 
producing  it  are  always  found  in  its  most  active  form,  are 
very  similar  to  those  that  accompany  epidemic  and  con- 


86  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

tagious  diseases,  like  cholera,  small-pox  and  diphtheria, 
etc.,  and  do  not  generally  grow  and  increase  in  tissue 
that  is  perfectly  healthy.  When  the  tissues  become 
weakened  from  any  cause,  the  proper  conditions  are 
produced,  the  germs  found  everywhere  begin  at  once  to 
develope,  taking  up  the  food  that  would  otherwise  go  to 
the  nourishment  of  the  tree,  and  the  result  is  the 
destruction  of  the  latter. 

Among  the  causes  that  may  bring  about  this 
weakened  condition,  are,  first,  a  late,  immature  or  soft 
growth,  which,  upon  exposure  to  severe  cold,  is  so 
injured  that  the  very  unstable  elements  of  which  the 
tissue  is  composed,  break  up  quickly,  and  fermentation 
begins,  or,  in  other  words,  a  very  rapid  growth  of  the 
bacterial  cells,  or  germs,  takes  place.  In  some  cases 
the  tree  is  killed  very  soon  after  warm  weather  sets  in, 
or,  if  less  injured,  decay  goes  on  more  gradually* 
Another  cause  of  weakness  may  be  found  in  the  exhaus- 
tion of  the  soil,  by  the  plant-food  being  all  taken  up  by 
the  roots,  which  are  gross-feeders,  and  fermentation  may 
result  from  the  cells  being  in  an  inactive  condition. 

Exhaustion  of  the  plant  may  also  result  from  over- 
bearing, when  the  cells  are  not  only  exhausted,  but  the 
plant-food  of  the  soil  is  so  reduced  that  the  supply  is 
insufficient  to  keep  up  a  healthy  action.  Perhaps  the 
greatest  factor  in  the  weakening  of  the  tissue  is  the 
peach-borer.     This  insect  is  so  well  known  that  I  will 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  8/ 

not  Stop  to  describe  it,  but  merely  mention  some  of  its 
habits.  The  eggs  are  laid  upon  the  trunk,  from  close  to 
the  ground  to  a  height,  perhaps,  of  two  or  three  feet, 
and,  especially  in  old  trees,  in  the  forks  of  large 
branches.  The  eggs  hatch  and  the  larvae  or  worms  feed 
upon  the  inner  bark  and  sap-wood,  eating  a  space  of  the 
size  of  a  silver  dollar.  As  many  as  ten  or  twelve  have 
been  found  in  a  single  tree,  and  this  cause  alone  is  sufifi- 
cient  to  account,  in  a  great  measure,  for  the  thoroughly 
exhausted  condition  of  many  trees.  In  order  to  better 
understand  the  nature  of  this  disease  and  its  effects  upon 
the  tree,  let  us  glance  at  some  of  the  functions  of  the 
tissue  of  the  plant.  In  all  plants  the  principal  part  of 
the  plant-food  is  prepared  or  transformed,  so  as  to  be  in 
condition  to  nourish  the  new  growing  cells,  in  the  leaf. 
During  the  day-time,  and  under  the  influence  of  light, 
the  plant-food  taken  in  from  the  atmosphere  and  the 
soil  is  being  rapidly  transformed  into  starch  in  the 
green  part  of  the  leaf  At  night,  when  the  plant  is  in 
active  growth,  this  starch  is  changed  into  sugar,  and  it 
is  in  this  form  that  it  is  taken  up  to  nourish  the  growing 
tissue. 

Now  it  is  found  in  diseased  trees  that  there  is  a 
large  quantity  of  starch  undissolved  in  the  tissues,  and 
that  the  latter  seems  to  have  lost  the  power  of  trans- 
forming it  into  the  proper  condition  for  its  nourishment, 
just  as  the  sick  man,  although  he  is  able  to  take   large 


88  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

quantities  of  food  into  his  stomach,  yet  the  system  can- 
not make  use  of  it  and  it  becomes  a  still  further  source  of 
disturbance.  (This  may  happen  in  over-fertilized  trees 
as  well  as  in  diseased  or  starved  trees. — J.  J.  BLACK.) 
In  looking  for  a  remedy  for  this  diseased  condition,  we 
would  select  those  elements  that  are  supposed  to  have  an 
especially  stimulating  effect  upon  the  diseased  organs, 
and  we  find  that  potash  possesses  the  property  of 
increasing  the  vigor  of  the  leaf-action  of  plants. 

The  muriate  of  Potash  is  generally  thought  to  be 
the  best  and  it  is  possible  that  the  chlorine  it  contains, 
which  is  so  destructive  to  animal  and  plant  life,  may 
have  an  antiseptic  influence,  preserving  the  contents  of 
the  cells  from  fermentation  and  decay,  or  it  may  destroy 
the  germs  within  the  cells.  The  way  the  remedy  effects 
this  favorable  result,  however,  is  somewhat  a  matter  of 
conjecture,  but  the  above  seems  a  reasonable  explanation. 
Iron  is  known  to  have  a  very  beneficial  influence  upon 
the  development  of  the  green  coloring-matter  of  the  leaf 
of  plants,  and  may  generally  be  applied  in  small  quanti- 
ties with  good  results.  Potash  alone  has  the  effect  to 
cause  rather  a  late  growth,  and  this  effect  must  be 
counteracted  by  the  use  of  phosphoric  acid  found  in  the 
common  super-phosphates,  or  in  a  less  soluble  form  in 
ground  bone — which  has  the  effect  of  causing  an  early 
maturity  of  plant-tissues.  The  Magnesia  is  recom- 
mended to  assist  in  the  diffusion  and  retention  of  the 
potash  in  the  soil. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  89 

It  is  claimed  by  many  that  this  disease  is  contagious, 
and  some  go  so  far  as  to  say  that  it  often  spreads  in  the 
direction  of  the  prevailing  wind — others  claim  that 
it  has  been  communicated  from  one  tree  to  another 
by  dragging  a  diseased  tree  through  the  orchard,  and 
by  the  pruning-shears  or  the  knife.  Now,  while  I  have 
no  positive  proof  that  the  disease  is  not  contagious, 
I  do  seriously  doubt  that  any  one  has  positive  proof  that 
it  is  ;  certainly,  I  have  never  seen  such  proof  stated. 
Probably,  in  most  of  the  cases  where  the  disease  is 
thought  to  have  spread,  the  conditions  of  soil,  atmos- 
pheric changes,  etc.,  being  the  same,  all  the  trees,  sooner 
or  later,  will  die  in  the  same  manner.  I  have  seen  in 
the  same  orchard,  trees  standing  in  the  more  moist,  rich 
soil  die  after  only  a  few  years  growth,  while  on  the 
higher,  lighter  and  poorer  soil  they  lived  many  years 
longer. 

I  have  in  mind  another  instance  :  A  lot  of  trees  of 
the  same  age  and  variety,  and  from  the  same  nursery, 
that  were  planted  on  soil  apparently  of  the  same 
nature  ;  the  land  was  divided  into  two  lots,  one  being 
seeded  to  grass  with  oats,  while  the  other  was  cultivated 
with  some  hoed  crop. 

The  first  lot  of  trees  which  were  robbed  of  the 
proper  amount  of  food  and  moisture,  died  in  a  year  or 
two,  while  those  in  the  cultivated  land  kept  up  a  fine 
healthy  growth  for  several  years,  and  produced  some  very 


90  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

fine  fruit.  Now  if  the  disease  is  contagious,  why  did 
they  not  all  die  in  the  latter  case  ;  or  in  the  former, 
why  should  the  difference  in  the  soil  make  a  difference 
as  to  their  length  of  life  ?  The  above  examples  indicate 
that  the  condition  of  the  tree  determines  its  suscepti- 
bility to  take  the  disease,  and  that  the  condition  of  the 
soil  often  exerts  a  very  great  influence  upon  the  strength 
of  the  tree  to  resist  or  overcome  the  attack  of  fungous 
growths.  We  believe  this  to  be  true  of  all  trees  or 
plants  that  are  subject  to  the  attack  of  mildews,  blights, 
etc.,  that  they  are  never  attacked  until  they  have  in 
some  way  become  weakened.  There  are  many  cases  of 
isolated  trees  in  Massachusetts,  that  have  reached  the 
age  of  twenty  years  or  more,  under  apparent  conditions 
of  neglect,  but  upon  close  examination,  it  has  been 
found  that  their  surroundings  and  the  soil  in  which  they 
were  planted  was  such  as  to  produce  just  the  right  kind 
of  food,  and  that  in  just  the  right  quantity  to  produce 
the  best  growth.  Whenever  a  tree  dies  in  our  orchard, 
we  plant  a  new  one  at  once,  and  have  never  known  the 
second  one  to  die,  although  some  were  planted  eight  or 
ten  years  ago. 

The  special  treatment  our  trees  have  received  in  the 
way  of  pruning,  has  been  to  cut  all  the  new  wood  back, 
about  one-half  each  autumn  or  winter,  and  to  thin  out 
some  of  the  weak  wood  entirely.  To  overcome  the  tend- 
ency of  the  trees  to  form  long  straggling  branches,  after 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  9I 

a  time  some  of  the  main  branches  are  cut  back  to  stubs  a 
few  feet  long.  From  these,  strong  new  shoots  are  pro- 
duced, keeping  the  trees  in  good  form.  When  the  trees 
show  indications  of  the  Yellows,  the  whole  top  is  some- 
times cut  off  in  this  manner.  The  effects  of  this  annual 
pruning  are  two-fold  ;  to  keep  the  trees  in  compact  form, 
and  to  reduce  the  number  of  fruit-buds,  thus  lessening 
the  danger  of  injury  from  over-bearing.  A  year  ago  this 
winter,  we  cut  the  tops  of  all  the  trees  of  this  orchard 
back  to  stubs,  varying  from  about  two  feet  at  the  sides 
to  perhaps  three  or  four  feet  in  the  centre  so  as  to  give 
them  good  form,  and  the  result  has  been  the  formation 
of  very  handsome  heads  of  strong  healthy  new  wood. 
All  the  ends  of  the  branches  were  cut  off,  and  after 
becoming  well  dried,  were  covered  over  with  two  coats 
of  linseed-oil  paint.  The  cultivation  of  an  orchard  so 
as  to  keep  the  trees  in  the  best  health  and  productive- 
ness, we  find  the  most  difficult  problem,  and  we  are 
uncertain  whether  the  land  should  be  cultivated  or  not. 
(There  is  no  doubt  about  the  necessity  of  cultivation  on 
the  Peninsula. — J.  J.  BLACK.)  The  great  advantage  of 
cultivation  is  that  it  is  perhaps  the  best  way  of  supplying 
the  necessary  amount  of  plant-food,  and  of  preserving 
the  moisture  in  the  soil,  but  I  am  very  certain  that  trees 
in  cultivated  land  are  much  more  liable  to  be  affected 
by  the  unfavorable  changes  of  our  climate,  than  when 
the  roots  are  in  turf.     If  grown  in  turf,  we   have  two 


92  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

very  serious  obstacles  to  overcome.  The  first  is  the  loss 
of  moisture  by  its  evaporation  from  the  grass  and  leaves, 
and  the  second  is,  the  difficulty  of  supplying  plant-food 
enough  to  support  both  trees  and  grass.  Both  can  be 
overcome  by  the  use  of  the  grass  as  a  mulch.  If  this  is 
not  sufficient,  other  coarse  material,  as  brakes,  moist 
grass,  decaying  brush,  machine  shavings  from  planing- 
mill,  etc.,  may  be  very  cheaply  obtained.  I  am  quite 
satisfied  that  if  plant-food,  to  the  value  of  the  cost  of 
labor  for  cultivating,  be  added  to  the  soil  annually,  with 
the  method  of  preventing  the  loss  of  moisture  by  mulch, 
our  peach  orchards  will  live  longer  and  produce  more 
fruit.  Should  it  be  decided  most  advisable  to  cultivate 
the  orchard,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots 
by  too  deep  working  of  the  soil,  and  not  to  cultivate 
after  August  first.  In  case  of  the  use  of  mulch,  it 
should  be  removed  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
trees  and  piled  up,  about  September  first,  to  prevent  a 
late  growth  of  the  tree,  and  to  cause  a  ripening  and 
hardening  of  the  roots.  Then  if  the  trunks  of  the  trees 
are  protected  from  mice  by  a  mound  of  earth,  it  may  be 
put  back  again  just  before  the  ground  freezes,  to  prevent 
injury  to  the  roots  from  the  cold.  If  an  early  starting 
of  the  tree  is  desired,  the  mulch  may  be  removed  as  soon 
as  freezing  weather  ceases,  or  if  a  late  starting  is  desired, 
let  it  remain.  But  by  whatever  system  of  cultivation 
the  orchard  is  managed,  the  orchardist  must  know  the 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  93 

exact  condition  of  every  tree,  at  all  times,  and  be  able 
to  supply  any  need,  or  force  them  to  do  what  is  for  their 
best  growth.  In  order  to  do  this,  a  man  must  have  a 
love  for  his  work  and  be  thoroughly  in  earnest.  Such 
men  only  will  succeed  in  this  business.  I  have  known 
peaches  to  stand  a  temperature  of  eighteen  degrees 
below  zero  when  in  a  perfectly  ripened  growth. 

In  reviewing  the  subject,  I  draw  the  following  con- 
clusions. The  peach  tree  is  by  nature  a  delicate  tree, 
and  sensitive  to  the  sudden  changes  of  our  climate  ;  that 
many  causes  are  at  work  by  which  the  trees  are  still 
further  weakened,  and  only  when  weakened  are  liable  to 
the  attack  of  the  disease,  known  as,  "  the  Yellows  ;"that 
this  disease  may  be  largely  prevented  by  cultivation  and 
fertilization  ;  that  diseased  trees  may  be  so  treated  as  to 
recover  and  produce  good  fruit  ;  that  there  is  no  royal 
highway  to  success  in  the  cultivation  of  this  fruit,  but 
that  eternal  vigilance  is  the  price  of  an  abundance  of 
Peaches. 

FROST. 

Cold  weather  under  certain  conditions,  probably,  is 
the  great  cause  of  disappointment  in  peach  culture.  It 
comes  unheralded,  and  as  a  rule,  we  are  powerless  to 
prevent  its  injuries,  or  stay  its  ravages.  When  the 
thermometer  on  the  Peninsula  drops  to  zero  or  below 
zero,  the  peach  is  in  great  danger,  not  only  the  buds, 
but  the  new  wood,  and   even  the  larger  branches  ;  six 


94  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

degrees  below  zero,  by  experience  has  proved  disastrous 
to  the  coming  crop,  and  this  has  been  so  universally  the 
case,  that  we  look  upon  that  mark  on  the  thermometer  as 
registering  the  death-blow  to  the  yield  of  the  coming 
season.  Now,  as  to  this  matter,  there  are  many  attend- 
ing circumstances  to  be  taken  into  consideration.  If  the 
previous  season's  growth  of  wood  has  been  a  favorable 
one,  if  the  fall  has  been  one  in  which  the  growing  bud 
flourished,  and  neither  too  dry  nor  too  cold,  so  that  the 
wood  and  buds  be  neither  stunted,  nor  soft  and  flabby, 
the  season  up  to  December  closing  thus  favorably,  this 
wood  and  these  buds  will  stand  low  temperature  much 
better  during  December  and  January,  than  had  the  wood 
and  buds  opposite  qualities  from  these  mentioned.  Six 
degrees  below  zero  will  not  injure  strong  buds  and 
strong  wood,  as  much  as  zero  weather  will  injure  weak 
buds  and  weak  wood.  What  the  peach  wants  is  weather 
that  is  equal  in  temperature,  and  the  model  season  is  a 
winter  neither  too  warm  nor  too  cool,  and  a  like  spring 
not  opening  too  early.  Peaches  are,  probably,  most 
frequently  injured  in  the  spring,  just  when  the  blossom 
is  shedding  its  leaves,  leaving  the  young  peach  exposed, 
and  as  this  happens  at  different  periods  in  the  life  of  the 
young  peach,  depending  whether  you  are  south  or  north 
on  the  peninsula,  it  accounts  for  the  crop  often  being 
killed  in  the  southern  part,  and  saved  in  the  northern 
part,  or  this  may  be  reversed.     I  think  it  is  about  from 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  95 

three  to  five  days  that  the  young  peach  is  in  this  tender, 
unprotected  state,  and  this  is  about  the  difference  in 
ripening  between  the  upper  and  lower  orchards  of  the 
peninsula,  and  so  the  same  frost  may  strike  the  buds 
below  in  their  unprotected  state,  whilst  those  in  the 
upper  region  of  the  peninsula  may  escape  injury,  not 
having  progressed  to  the  unprotected  state.  The  peach 
is  very  warm  blooded,  and  very  little  coquetting  with 
warm  weather  induces  it  to  leave  its  winter  home. 
Hence,  warm  spells  the  latter  part  of  January  and  in 
February,  or  even  in  March,  cause  the  sap  to  rise,  and 
the  buds  to  swell,  and  a  cold  snap  following,  destroys 
vast  numbers  of  buds,  and  weakens  the  bearing  v/ood.  I 
am  satisfied  that  many  orchards  are  thus  deprived  of 
their  season's  fruit.  Late  spring  frosts,  especially  with 
moisture,  often  destroy  the  crops,  especially  when  they 
catch  the  young  peach  bare.  The  peach  at  this  time 
even,  will  stand  a  good  deal  of  dry  cold,  but  moisture 
with  freezing  does  the  damage.  An  easterly  storm  with 
cold  rain  at  the  blossom-shedding  season,  is  a  serious 
evil,  and  I  have  known  the  crops  thus  much  reduced. 
After  the  leaves  come  out,  for  the  tree  blossoms  before 
it  has  leaves,  the  young  peach  is  safe  except  the  frost 
be  severe,  and  accompanied  by  moisture.  Of  course  the 
better  condition  the  trees  are  in,  the  better  they  can 
withstand  cold.  To  sum  up,  the  peach-tree  wants  a 
winter  of  medium  temperature,  especially  one  free  from 


96  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  and  followed  by  a  back- 
ward spring,  with  equal  temperatures.  Particularly  dis- 
astrous to  the  crop  on  the  peninsula  are,  warm  spells  in 
February  and  March,  followed  by  early  spring  and 
variable  weather.  As  to  protection  against  frost,  I  am 
satisfied  that  by  smudges,  the  temperature  in  the  parts 
affected  by  the  smoke,  can  be  reduced  from  one  to  three 
degrees,  but  I  do  not  look  upon  them  as  practical  in 
large  culture,  yet  they  may  do  good  if  applied  to  a  given 
limited  number  of  trees. 

The  effect  of  frost  on  the  bud  is  easily  seen  when  it 
has  destroyed  its  vitality — cut  open  the  bud  longitudi- 
nally with  a  sharp  knife.  If  it  is  alive  and  healthy  you 
see  the  well-defined  embryo  peach,  a  little  more  shaded 
in  very  light  green  than  its  outer  surroundings,  with  the 
very  centre  still  a  little  darker  green.  This  is  a  healthy 
bud.  Should  the  frost  have  destroyed  its  vitality,  this 
little  centre  shows  itself  as  a  dark  blue  or  black  speck, 
larger  or  smaller  as  the  case  may  be,  but  the  smallest 
indication  of  a  dark  centre  indicates  the  certain  death  of 
the  fruit.  Through  the  late  autumn  and  winter,  a  good 
prognosis  of  the  crops  can  be  made  by  going  through 
the  orchard,  cutting  many  buds,  and  taking  the  percent- 
age of  those  injured.  If  the  twigs  and  small  branches 
have  been  injured  by  cold,  of  course  they  shrivel  and  the 
sap  never  reaches  them. 

THE   CURLED   LEAF 

exists  now  and  again  in  orchards,  but  I  can't  say  that 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  97 

it  has  done  damag-e  to  the  trees  or  to  the  fruit.  Like 
the  yellows,  it  is  probably  bacterial  in  its  origin,  and  is 
most  apt  to  come  where  the  trees  are  on  wet,  heavy  land, 
and  in  warm,  wet  seasons.  It  comes  in  May,  generally, 
or  in  June.  The  leaves  swell  and  curl  and  are  thick  with 
puffs  of  a  reddish  color  on  the  upper  side,  and  of  course 
the  opposite  side  follows  the  puff,  and  is  hollow.  They 
drop  off  in  about  three  weeks  and  new  leaves  come  and 
take  their  places,  and  the  tree  apparenrly  forgets  the 
trifling  annoyance.  Under  draining  and  surface  draining 
and  proper  culture  will  eradicate,  in  a  great  measure, this 
trouble.  As  we  most  frequently  see  curled  leaf  after  a 
warm,  wet  spell  followed  by  clearing,  cooling  weather,  I 
venture  the  conjecture  that  it  is  caused  by  a  fermenta- 
tion in  the  leaf  during  the  phases  of  the  starch  changing 
to  sugar,  caused  by  the  increased  presence  of  bacteria 
which  revel  and  increase  prodigiously  in  just  such 
changes  of  temperature.  This  fermentation  causes  the 
curl  and  death  of  the  leaf. 

THE  JUNE   DROP. 

After  the  young  peaches  have  well  formed  on  the 
trees  and  are  ready  to  start  on  their  voyage  to  ripening, 
nature  comes  in,  and  here  in  a  very  marked  manner 
asserts  her  sway  in  declaring  that  only  the  fittest  shall 
survive,  and  hence,  all  those  specimens  of  fruit  that  have 
not  the  perfect  form  of  health,  those  specimens  in  which 
the  early  germ  was  in  any  way  deteriorated  by  disease 
7 


98  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

or  accident,  yield  to  this  inexorable  law  of  existence  in 
all  that  pertains  to  life  on  earth,  and  drop  from  the  trees. 
This  dropping  is  termed  among  growers,  the  June  Drop 
or  June  Fall,  and  occurs  on  the  Peninsula  always,  or 
almost  always,  in  the  month  of  June,  depending  some- 
what on  the  earliness  or  lateness  of  the  season,  but  is 
generally  over  by  the  twentieth  to  the  twenty-fifth  of 
June.  Until  this  June  Drop  has  past,  it  is  impossible  to 
accurately  estimate  the  coming  crop,  but  after  it  is  over 
a  very  correct  estimate  can  usually  be  made,  the  curculio 
and  the  elements  being  about  the  only  disasters  to 
apprehend  after  this  time. 

THE  BORER. 
The  pernicious  borer  which  has  proved  very 
destructive  to  the  peach  in  the  United  States,  according 
to  Harris,  whose  description  of  the  insect  I  give,  is  a 
species  oi ^geria,  named  Exitiosa,  or  the  destructive. 
Mr.  Say  first  described  it  in  the  Journal  of  the  Academy  of 
Natural  Sciences  of  Philadelphia.  The  eggs  from  which 
the  borers  are  hatched  are  deposited  in  summer,  on  the 
trunks  of  the  trees  near  the  roots,  or  higher  up,  or  even 
in  the  crotches  of  large  branches.  The  borers  penetrate 
the  bark  and  devour  the  inner  bark  and  the  sap-wood. 
We  know  the  seat  of  operations  by  the  castings  and  gum 
which  issue  from  the  holes.  When  these  borers  are 
nearly  one  year  old  they  make  their  cocoons  either 
under  the  bark  of  the  trunk  or  of  the  root,   or  in  the 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  99 

earth  and  gum  contiguo/.s  to  the  base  of  the  trees  ;  soon 
they  are  transformed  to  Chrysalids  and  finally  come 
forth  the  full-winged  moth,  and  lay  eggs  for  another 
generation  of  borers.  This  last  transformation  takes 
place,  Harris  says,  from  J.une  to  October,  in  Massachu- 
setts ;  on  the  peninsula,  as  early  as  the  latter  part  of  May, 
and  as  long  as  warm  weather  lasts,  he  thinks  we  have 
them  ;  although  there  are  several  broods  produced  by  a 
succession  of  hatches,  there  is  but  one  rotation  of  meta- 
morphosis consummated  within  one  year.  Hence,  borers 
of  all  sizes  will  be  found  in  the  trees  throughout  the 
year  ;  although  it  seems  necessary  that  all  of  them, 
whether  more  or  less  advanced,  should  pass  through 
one  winter  before  they  appear  in  the  winged  state. 
The  winged  insect  as  we  see  it  in  the  orchard  is  like  a 
wasp,  in  looks — at  first  sight.  It  is  a  four-winged,  dark- 
blue  moth.  The  male  is  smaller  than  the  female,  has 
all  the  wings  transparent,  but  bordered  and  veined  with 
steel  blue,  which  is  the  general  color  of  the  body  in  both 
sexes.  The  feelers,  the  edges  of  the  collar  and  shoulder 
covers,  the  rings  of  the  abdomen,  and  the  brush  on  the 
tail  are  pale  yellow,  and  the  shins  have  two  rings  of  yel- 
low color.  It  expands  about  one -inch.  The  female  has  the 
fore-wings  blue  and  opaque  ;  the  hind  wings  transparent 
and  bordered  and  veined  like  those  on  the  male,  and  the 
middle  of  the  abdomen  is  encircled  by  a  broad  orange- 
colored  belt.     It,  the  female,  expands  an  inch  and  a  half, 


TOO  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

or  more.  They  don't  do  much  damage  when  deposited 
in  the  crotches  of  limbs,  but  often  completely  girdle 
the  trunk.  Harris  recommends  removing  the  earth  from 
the  base  of  the  tree,  and  crushing  and  destroying  the 
cocoons  and  borers  which  may  be  found  in  it  and  under 
the  bark.  Cover  the  wounds  with  wet  clay  and  surround 
the  trunk  with  a  sheet  of  sheathing  paper  eight  or  nine 
inches  wide,  which  should  extend  two  inches  below  the 
level  of  the  soil,  and  tie  above.  Fresh,  wet  clay  should 
then  be  put  around  the  roots  so  as  to  hold  the  paper  and 
prevent  access  beneath  it,  filling  up  with  new  loam.  Do 
this  in  the  spring,  or  in  June.  Next  winter  remove  the 
strings  and  next  spring  again  examine  the  trees  for  borers 
and  renew  the  protecting  application.  Heretofore,  on 
the  peninsula,  we  have  merely  had  to  destroy  the  borer 
by  scratching  around  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  and  in  the 
earth  around  it,  and  hooking  him  out  wherever  found  ; 
destroy  him,  and  also  destroy  all  cocoons,  and  scratch 
out  suspicious  looking  places  in  the  bark.  This  is  all 
that  is  necessary  now,  but  we  don't  know  what  may 
come  to  us,  and  to  be  forewarned  is  to  be  forearmed  ;  for 
this  reason  I  have  given  Harris'  method  of  destroying 
them.  From  what  we  have  said  of  the  worms,  it  will  be 
seen  that  they  may  be  present  all  through  warm  weather, 
and  you  must  begin  to  watch  for  them  in  June  and  on 
through  until  frost.  Whenever  you  see  gum  or  saw-dust 
about  the  body  of  the  tree,  or  in  the  crotches  of  large 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  lOI 

branches,  but  more  especially  near  the  ground,  hunt  for 
the  borer  and  pull  him  out  and  destroy  him  by  any 
method  you  can  command  ;  by  a  knife  blade,  a  piece  of 
wire,  your  finger,  or  a  stick,  or  what  not.  Clean  the  hole 
and  bark  about  it,  stuff  up  the  hole  with  common  soap, 
or  with  the  common  carbolic  soap  of  the  shops,  or  soft 
soap,  and  soap  the  bark  of  the  tree,  or  apply  a  tree- 
wash.  In  this  way,  and  in  this  way  only,  can  you  get 
rid  of  this  pest.  Maj.  B.  T.  Biggs  says,  gas  lime  is 
obnoxious  to  the  borer  and  a  quantity  may  be  spread 
around  the  tree.  Young  trees  should  be  especially 
watched,  and  their  bark  kept  clean.  In  warm  weather 
have  them  gone  over  once  or  twice,  and  rubbed 
down  with  a  coarse  cloth,  or  a  broom  or  brush,  and 
in  this  way  you  will  keep  them  free  with  little  trouble 
from  worms,  and  have  a  healthy  orchard  as  it  gets  older. 
Thrips,  which  Harris  rather  places  among  bugs,  but 
which  may  be  the  European  {Aphis  Persicca)  Peach- 
Louse.  They  draw  large  quantities  of  the  sap  from  the 
leaves  from  numerous  punctures,  and  disarrange  the 
functions  of  the  leaves,  and  hence,  the  food  of  the  tree, 
and  again  thus  injure  not  only  the  crop  of  fruit,  but  the 
tree  itself.  They  make  reddish  tumors  on  the  leaves 
which  naturalists,  according  to  Harris,  call  galls — 
because  they  resemble  those  formed  in  the  same  way,  as 
in  oak  galls.  These  tumors  on  one  side,  and  hollows  on 
the  corresponding  opposite  side  make  it  look  like  curled 


102  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

leaf,  and  this  may  be,  or  really  is,  one  cause  of  curled 
leaf,  but  another  form  exists  as  has  been  previously 
described  ;  the  leaves  thus  affected  drop  as  other  curled 
leaves.  Soap-suds,  or  soap-suds  and  tobacco,  sprinkled 
on  the  leaves  will  destroy  these  pests.  Insectivorous 
birds  will  destroy  them.  Fruit  growers,  spare  the  birds 
when  possible.  Plant  some  cherries  and  such,  for  them, 
and  they  will  work  for  you  when  all  fruit  has  gone,  and 
before  it  comes. 

BARK-LICE  -(Coca if iS — Harris.) 
These  infest  the  bark  of  the  peach  tree  to  a  certain 
extent,  but  the  peach  has  not  yet  suffered  as  the  apple 
has  in  this  country,  but,  if  the  peach  continues  to  be 
grown  much  longer,  all  these  pests  will  attack  it,  for 
what  ever  lives  in  this  world  has  enemies  which  cause 
life  to  fight  its  way,  and  whilst  on  the  peninsula  we  have 
no  scientist  to  tell  us  of  these  things,  to  forewarn  us 
and  give  us  remedies,  our  trees  may  be  overwhelmed 
at  any  time.  A  favorable  place  to  find  bark-lice  of  one 
species  is  on  the  powder-willow,  and  in  summer  if  you 
sit  under  one  of  these  trees  thus  infested,  you  will  soil 
your  clothing  with  a  dye  of  a  cochineal  color,  which 
comes  from  the  juice  of  the  crushed  bugs,  and  is,  I 
suppose,  a  really  very  good  cochineal  dye.  These  bark- 
lice  live  on  the  bark  of  the  tree,  roots  and  limbs,  and  are 
found  again  on  the  leaves.  They  are  scaly,  male  and 
female,  and  increase  rapidly.     They  live  by  suction  from 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  IO3 

the  bark  and  leaf-stems  of  the  tree.  Harris  believes 
the  male  and  female  pair  in  the  autumn,  the  male  perish- 
ing, and  the  female  surviving  the  winter  ;  this  study  he 
made  on  the  apple  aphis  ;  the  following  spring  the 
female  lays  her  eggs.  He  says  that  after  the  meeting  of 
the  sexes  the  body  of  the  female  increases  in  size  and 
becomes  convex,  and  now  serves  to  shelter  the  eggs. 
The  eggs,  when  matured,  pass  under  the  mother's  body, 
and  this  shrinks,  gradually,  until  nothing  is  left  but  the 
dry  outer  convex  skin,  when  the  mother  dies  and  the 
body  protects  the  eggs  until  hatched — and  if  not  large 
enough  a  kind  of  down  is  thrown  out,  which  completes 
the  covering.  Birds  destroy  these  lice,  and  they  are  also 
destroyed,  Harris  says,  by  parasites  within  them.  The 
best  wash  to  destroy  them,  Harris  gives  as  follows : 
Two  parts  soft  soap  and  eight  parts  water,  with  lime 
enough  to  make  a  thick  white-wash  ;  work  thoroughly 
into  the  crevices  of  the  bark  and  parts  affected. 
CURCULIO. 
The  Curculio,  according  to  Dr.  S.  Kneeland,  is  a 
small  beetle.  The  perfect  insect  is  one-fifth  of  an  inch 
long,  dark  brown,  with  white,  yellow,  and  black  spots. 
Shaken  from  a  tree  it  feigns  death  and  looks  like,  merely, 
a  dried  bud — it  has  a  curved  snout  bent  under  the  thorax 
when  at  rest,  which  is  the  instrument  with  which  the 
curculio  makes  the  crescent-shaped  puncture  in  the  fruit 
and  in  which  it  deposits  the  ^%% — the  jaw  is  at  the  end  of 


104  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

the  snout — the  thorax  is  uneven,  and  the  wing-cases  are 
rigid  and  humped,  covering  two  transparent  wings  by 
which  the  curculio  flies  from  tree  to  tree.  Behind  the 
humps  is  a  yellowish-white  spot  ;  each  thigh  has  two 
small  teeth  on  the  under  side.  They  appear  on  the 
peninsula  between  the  first  of  April  and  the  first  of  July, 
it  depending  on  the  forwardness  of  vegetation  when 
they  commence  to  appear.  When  the  peaches  get  to  be 
the  size  of  cherries,  the  female  goes  from  peach  to  peach, 
makes  her  half-moon  shaped  cut,  and  deposits  one  egg. 
She  continues  until  her  store  is  exhausted.  The  grubs 
are  hatched  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  resemble  white 
maggots  with  a  light-brown  head  ;  they  immediately 
burrow  obliquely  to  the  stone  of  the  peach.  The  fruit 
thus  weakened,  becomes  gum  my  and  drops  prematurely 
Now  the  grub,  full-size,  leaves  the  peach  on  the  ground 
and  goes  into  the  ground  becoming  a  pupa,  (chrysalis,) 
and  in  three  weeks  comes  out  a  full-grown  curculio  ;  so 
its  wheel  of  life  goes  around. 

In  full,  or  even  moderate,  bearing  years;  the  curculio, 
while  very  active,  doubtlessly,  does  not  make  much 
impression  on  the  crop,  but  when  the  yield  is  light,  at 
the  beginning,  the  damage  done  by  this  pest,  I  have  no 
doubt,  is  a  very  serious  one.  When  you  are  going 
through  your  orchard  in  early  warm  weather,  and  see  a 
small,  brown  object,  like  an  elephant  in  miniature,  suck 
at  a  small  peach  on  the  tree,  that  is  the  female  curculio 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I05 

depositing  her  egg.  Remedies  for  curculio  are,  to  jar 
the  tree  with  a  wooden  mallet,  by  a  series  of  quick, 
smart  taps  on  the  trunk  and  limbs,  and  shake  it,  and  thus 
many  of  the  females  will  fall  to  the  ground  whilst  in  the 
act  of  depositing  their  eggs,  and  may  be  caught  on  any 
object,  like  a  white  sheet,  and  destroyed.  Scatter  air- 
slacked  lime  over  the  tree,  as  soon  as  you  see  the  fruit 
appearing,  once  a  week,  for  six  weeks.  Use  flowers-of- 
sulphur  several  times  in  the  same  way,  or  put  it  in 
white-wash  with  a  little  glue  in  it,  and  throw  over,  or 
spray  the  trees  with  any  of  the  syringes  or  pumps  now 
in  use.  Burn  all  fallen  fruit,  and  cut  out  and  burn  all 
excrescences  growing  out  of  the  trees,  as  the  eggs  may 
be  deposited  in  these.  See  Harris  on  Insects  injurious 
to  Vegetation,  and  American  Cyclopedia,  from  which  I 
have,  in  a  large  measure,  taken  these  descriptions. 

As  enemies  to  the  peach,  we  have,  again,  rabbits 
and  mice,  and  especially  are  these  pests  serious  among 
young  trees  planted  in  new  ground,  or  in  ground  that 
has  not  had  the  vegetation  turned  under  before  planting 
the  trees.  In  such  ground,  many  trees  will  be  girdled 
and  lost,  especially  in  a  hard  winter.  The  remedies  are, 
to  tramp  frequently  about  the  trees  when  snow  is  on  the 
ground  ;  shoot  the  rabbits,  and  run  them  frequently 
with  dogs,  and  put  tar  paper  about  the  trees.  Keep  your 
orchards  clean,  and  these  animals  will  seek  more  con- 
genial   pastures.       Sultry  weather   in    picking   time    is 


I06  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

often  a  serious  embarrassment,  and  thus  many  peaches 
soften  down  and  are  lost,  but  the  remedy  is  to  increase 
your  force,  to  hurry  off  those  coming  to  perfection,  and 
to  use  your  evaporator  freely,  if  you  have  one.  Such 
drawbacks,  together  with  wind-storms,  hail-storms  and 
such  like,  we  must  take  as  visitations  sent  by  God,  and 
the  nearer  we  can  receive  them  in  the  spirit  of  Gold- 
smith's Vicar  of  Wakefield,  the  nearer  will  we  approach 
human  happiness,  in  respect  to  peach-growing,  at  least. 


Chapter  VI. 


VARIETIES   OF   THE   PEACH   FOR   THE    PENINSULA. 

In  speaking  of  the  varieties  of  the  peach,  there  are 
numerous  specimens  of  the  great  number  existing  that 
I  will  not  even  name,  for  I  am  writing  for  this  locality, 
and  shall  confine  myself  to  those  varieties  that  flourish 
here.  The  general  varieties,  including  seedlings,  run 
far  into  the  hundreds,  but  it  is  only  tested  or  promising 
varieties,  that  we  have  to  deal  with. 

The  different  peaches  may  be  separated  ;  first, 
according  to  their  colors,  yellow  and  white  ;  secondly, 
as  freestones  and  clings  ;  thirdly,  by  their  leaves,  dif- 
ferent serrations,  etc.  ;  fourthly,  by  their  blossoms,  form 
and  color  of,  etc.  ;  and  lastly,  by  the  appearances  of  the 
trees,  and  by  the  presence  or  absence  of  glands  of 
different  kinds  on  the  leaves,  as  globose  glands,  kidney- 
shaped  glands,  and  by  the  absence  of  glands,  etc.  I 
have  prepared  the  following  list  of  peaches,  which  will 
thrive  on  the  Peninsula  with,  probably,  greater  luxuri- 
ance, than  on  any  other  spot  in  the  known  world.  Some 
of  these,  of  course,  will  thrive  better  than  others,  and 
some  will  be  found  to  be  grown  with  little  profit,  and 


io8 


THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 


Others,  again,  will  be  found  very  profitable.  From  these 
last,  of  course,  it  will  be  our  policy  to  make  the  final 
selections  for  orchard-planting  for  profit. 


Early  Alexander, 
Amsdens  June, 
Early  Beatrice, 
Early  Louise, 

Early  Rivers, 
Hale's  Early, 
Crawford's  Early, 
Wager, 
Old  Mixon, 
Christiana  No.  i, 
Susquehanna, 
Stump  the  World, 
Sallie  Worrall, 
Golden  Beauty, 
Shipley's  Late  Red, 
Variegated  Free, 
Beer's  Smock, 
Townsend's  Late  Yellow, 
Townsend's  Late  Red, 
Salway, 

Allen's  October, 
Bilyeu's  Late  October, 


Fleitas  or  Yellow  St.  John, 
Troths  Early  Red, 
Mountain  Rose, 
(  Large  Early  York  ) 

(*Honest  John,        J 
Foster, 

Reeves  Favorite, 
Moore's  Favorite, 
Crawford's  Late, 
Pullen, 

Ward's  Late  Free, 
Bequette  Free, 
Fox's  Seedling, 
Stephen's  Late, 
Brandywine  or  Prize, 
Smock, 

Wilkins'  Late  Heath  Cling, 
Last  of  the  Season, 
Keyport  Late, 
Crocketts  White, 
White  or  Late  Heath, 
Christiana  No.  2, 


'  There  is  also  .a  yellow  "  Honest  John,"  coming  in  with  Crawford's  Early  and  much 
resembling  it,  though  of  a  more  pyriform  shape.  It  will,  in  many  orchards,  be  found 
substituted  for  tarly  Crawford's. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  IO9 

Mary's  Choice,  Magnum  Bonum, 

Geary's  Hold  On,  President, 

Brown's  Choice,  Wheatland, 

Henrietta  (Cling.)  Kilborn  or  Canada  Iron  Clad. 

Some  of  these  peaches  are  not  familiar  to  me,  but 
when  they  are  endorsed  by  such  experts  in  the  propaga- 
tion of  trees  as,  E.  R.  Cochran,  J.  G.  Brown,  and  E.  A. 
Ely,  I  willingly  give  them  a  place.  They  are  not  given 
in  the  order  of  their  ripening  ;  that  1  will  give  as  near  as 
I  can  in  a  table,  showing  the  ripening  of  peaches. 

Early  Alexander — White. — Ripens  last  of  June  to 
first  of  July,  depending  on  its  location  north  or  south  on 
the  peninsala,  as  will  be  the  ripening  of  all  peaches  here 
described.     The  best  of  the  very  early  peaches. 

Amsden's  June. — Much  like  Early  Alexander,  but  if 
any  difference  it  is  inferior  to  it. 

Early  Beatrice  —  Reniform  Glands.  —  Mottled-red 
cheek,  etc.,  small,  inferior,  and  not  worth  growing. 

Early  Louise — Reniform  Glands. — Larger  than  Early 
Beatrice,  but  I  do  not  recommend  it.  None  of  these 
early  peaches  carry  well,  are  very  tender,  both  tree  and 
the  fruit,  rot  badly,  especially  if  weather  is  wet  and 
warm  at  ripening  time. 

Early  Rivers — Reniform  Glands. — Large,  good 
peach  ;  pale  straw-color  ;  the  best  of  the  early  peaches. 


no  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

and  desirable  to  plant,  especially  on  lower  part  of  the 
peninsula,  on  light,  sandy  soil. 

Hales  Early. — Has  no  desirable  qualities  ;  what  it 
had  having  been  supplanted  by  better  varieties. 

Fleitas  or  Platers  or  Yellow  St.  John. — Large,  round 
orange-yellow  peach,  good  color,  good  flavor,  and  a 
peach,  as  far  as  I  can  find  out,  I  am  inclined  to  recom- 
mend freely. 

Troth's  Early  Red  —  Globose  Glands.  —  Regular 
bearer,  but  small.  First  class  to  evaporate,  and  I  think 
some  should  be  planted,  where  we  have  Evaporators, 
and  especially  in  lower  part  of  the  peninsula.  Ships  well, 
and  gives  beautiful  red  centres  after  evaporation.  Is  a 
white  peach. 

Mountain  Rose  —  White, — and  one  of  the  best  of  its 
date.     Resembles  the  Early  York. 

Large  Early  York,  or  Honest  John — Glandless,  with 
serrated  leaves — White. — A  very  good  peach.  This 
species  is  larger  than  the  old  Early  York,  but  has  less  of 
the  delicious  Early  York  flavor. 

Foster — Yellow, — and  said  to  be  a  very  fine  peach  ; 
is  being  largely  planted,  and  is  highly  recommended. 
Ripens  just  before  Crawford's  Early,  and  said  to  be  a 
better  peach. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  Ill 

Craivford's  Early — Globose  Glands. — Get  the  true 
old-fashioned  Crawford's  Early,  and  not  the  Yellow 
Melocotoon,  which  is  most  often  sold  for  it,  and  you  get 
a  grand,  early,  yellow  peach. 

Wager — Globose  Glands. — Good  sized,  lemon-yellow 
peach  which  originated  in  New  York  state  and  is  highly 
spoken  of  there  ;  said  to  reproduce  itself  from  the  stone 
every  time  ;  said  to  withstand  frost  well.  I  have  fruited 
it  in  my  garden.  Here,  it  is  a  very  prolific  bearer  and  a 
strong  rapid-growing  tree.  The  peach  is  juicy  and  of 
a  delicious  apricotish  flavor,  flesh  straw-color,  and  skin 
dotted  with  reddish-brown  spots  and  often  a  hand- 
some red  blush.  In  field-culture,  I  think,  will  ripen  with 
us  after  Early  Crawford  ;  I  have  budded  and  planted 
several  hundred  in  my  orchards,  and  believe  it  will  be  a 
success  as  a  producer  of  fairly  large,  and  good  looking, 
well  flavored  fruit,  and  will  be  a  regular  bearer. 

Reeves  Favorite — Globose  Glands. —  Yellow,  and  one 
of  the  grandest  of  peaches,  but,  like  all  extra  large  ones, 
a  shy  bearer  ancf  producer.  It  does  better  in  some  places 
than  in  others,  and  is  a  far  better  producer  than  Susque- 
hanna or  Pullen.  I  dont  want  too  many  of  them  for 
profit. 

Old  Mixon — Globose  Glands. —  White,  elegant  to 
ship,  with  beautiful  blush,  and  altogether  desirable  for 
profit.      In  flavor  it  is  facile  princeps  among  peaches. 


112  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Moore  s  Favorite — Globose  Glands. — Like  the  above, 
but  not  so  free  a  bearer.  Ripens  a  day  or  two  before 
old  Mixon.     A  grand  peach. 

Christiana,  No.  i  and  Christiana,  No.  2. 

Yellow  Free-stone. — No.  2  the  one  to  get  if  possible. 
Comes  between  Crawford's  Late  and  Smock,  and  for  this 
reason  should  be  desirable  if  it  should  be  a  good  bearer. 

Crawford's  Late — Globose  Glands. — A  grand,  Yellow 
freestone  peach,  and  is,  and  should  be,  in  every  orchard. 
Is  profitable,  even  if  a  little  shy  at  times,  and  tender  as 
to  frost.     Plant  it. 

Susquehanna — Yellow. — A  grand  peach,  but  don't 
plant  it.     It  is  too  shy  a  bearer. 

Pullen — Yellow. — Grand,  but  if  you  want  profit,  I 
would  not  recommend  it.  It  is  shy,  and  is  much  the 
same  peach  as  the  Susquehanna.  If  you  want  to  show 
your  wares  at  the  Fair,  have  some  of  these  two  peaches. 

Stump  the  World — Globose  Glands — White  free- 
stone,— with  beautiful  color.  One  of  the  old  reliables 
like  old  Mixon.  Stump,  next  to  Smock  is,  probably, 
the  best  peach  to  evaporate,  and  should  be  very  largely 
planted. 

Ward's  Late  Free — Reni/orm  Glands — White  free- 
stone,— and  fine.     I  prefer  Moore's,  Mixon's  and  Stump, 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.    ,  II3 

to  Ward's.     Ward,  more  apt  to  shed  its  fruit,  and  is,  for 
this  fault,  not  profitable. 

Sally  Worrall — Freestone,  White. — A  North  Carolina 
new  peach,  recommended  to  me  by  E.  A.  Ely,  and  that 
is  a  good  recommendation. 

Bequette  Free. — E.  A.  Ely  recommends  it,  and  that 
is  all  I  know  about  it. 

Golden  Beauty . — Same  recommendation  as  Bequette 
Free. 

Foxs  Seedling — Globose  Glands — White  freestone. — 
Ripens  at  a  time  to  make  it  valuable,  and  is  productive, 
and  is  very  largely  planted  on  the  peninsula. 

Shipley' s  Late  Red — Large,  White y  Red  Blush,  free- 
stone.— Ripens  about  with  Smock,  and  is  highly  recom- 
mended. 

Stephen's  Late — White  freestone. — Ripens  the  end  of 
September,  and  is  highly  recommended  by  E.  A.  Ely. 
It  is  a  rareripe. 

Variegated  Free. — Introduced  by  H.  R.  Walker, 
Esq.,  of  Middletown,  Del.  A  seedling  of  the  old 
Variegated  Free.  White  skin,  shaded  and  striped  with 
red.     A  white  peach,  and  is  desirable. 

Brandy  wine,   or  Prize. — Said    to    be   larger    than 
Crawford's  Late,  and,  probably,  a  seedling  of  it.     Comes 
8 


114  THE   CULTIVATION   OF  THE 

in  with  Smock,  and  this  makes  it  desirable.  I  have  a 
notion  it  is  a  little  shy,  and  I  know  it  does  much  better 
in  the  heavier  soil  of  the  upper  Peninsula,  than  it  does 
in  the  lighter  sandy  soil  below.  It  will  probably  prove 
a  very  valuable  peach. 

Beer's  Smock — Reniform  Glands. — Plant  plenty  of 
this  old  reliable — second  quality  though  it  be — it  brings 
profit  to  the  grower.  The  best  to  produce  weight  after 
evaporation  and  canning.  Yellow  freestone.  Quite 
certain,  and  a  very  prolific  bearer. 

Common  Smock — Reniform  Glands. — A  little  behind 
Beer's  Smock  in  size,  etc.  ;  ripens  a  day  or  two  before, 
and  if  anything,  will  stand  more  frost  than  its  bigger 
brother. 

Tozvnsend's  Late  Yellow. — E=  R.  Cochran  recom- 
mends it,  and  that  is  a  good  reason  to  plant  it. 

Townsend' s  Late  Red. — The  same  comment  applies 
to  this  peach. 

Last  of  the  Season. — The  same  with  this  peach. 

Wilkin's  Late  Heath  Cling — Reniform  Glands. — 
Cling,  and  nearly  double  the  size  of  White  Late  Heath 
Cling. 

White  Late  Heath — Reniform  Glands. — Not  so  large, 
but,  probably,  a  better  bearer  than  Wilkin's.     These 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  II5 

peaches  sell  well  for  brandying,  etc.,  but  I  don't  think 
they  are,  as  a  rule,  profitable  orchard  varieties. 

Salway. — Rather  small,  late  Yellow  freestone.  Fair 
to  evaporate,  and  does  best  on  light,  sandy  land. 

Key  port  White — White  fiesh,  a  free  white  seed. 
Jersey  gives  it  18  good  marks  out  of  a  possible  30. 
Probably,  we  don't  want  many  of  them  on  the  Peninsula, 
nor  of 

Crockett's  White — Reniform  Glands,  either. 

Brown's  Choice. — J.  G.  Brown,  of  Camden,  Del., 
says  this  is  the  best  white  peach,  comes  after  Moore's 
Favorite,  and  is  one  of  the  best  peaches,  one  of  the  best 
shippers,  and  one  of  the  most  profitable  peaches  he 
raises.  There  is  no  better  authority  than  Jacob  G. 
Brown,  of  Camden,  Delaware. 

Magnum  Bonuin. — Also  recommended  by  J.  G. 
Brown,  and  that  is  all  I  know  of  it. 

President — Globose  Glands  —  Red, — and  very  large 
and  profitable.  E.  R.  Cochran  recommends  it,  and  so 
does  he  recommend 

Allen's  October — Late — Free —  Yellow. 

Bilyeu  s  Late  October —  White — Free, —  red  cheek  ; 
very  hard,  but  let  it  drop  and  lay  on  the  ground  ten  days 
and  it  becomes  a  pretty  good  peach  to  eat. 


H6  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Gearys  Hold-on — Large — Yellow — Free. — Said  to  be 
a  seedling  of  the  Smock.     Is  late. 

Marys  Choice — J.  G.  Brown  recommends  it. 

Henrietta. — The  late  Randolph  Peters  called  it  the 
most  magnificent  yellow  cling  known.  Large  ;  mostly 
bright  crimson  ;  hardy ;  sure  bearer  and  productive.  It 
brings  fancy  prices. 

Wheatland. —  E.  A.  Ely  recommends  it  for  the 
Peninsula,  but  personally  I  know  nothing  about  it. 

Now  we  come  to  one  of  the  most  important  points 
in  peach  culture,  viz  :  The  selection  of  the  varieties  for 
the  orchard.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  have  too  many 
kinds,  even  in  a  large  orchard,  and  it  is  necessary  to 
watch  the  progress  of  the  business,  for  what  might  have 
been  profitable  several  years  ago,  may  not  be  profitable 
now.  For  example,  the  improved  means  of  transporta- 
tion is  throwing  the  southern  fruit  into  the  northern 
markets,  and  they  compete  with  the  early  fruit,  and  take 
all  the  edge  off  of  buyers  before  we  can  get  ours  in  from 
the  peninsula.  Next,  canning  and  evaporating  have 
measureably  increased,  and  it  is  necessary  to  take  this 
into  consideration,  and  plant  with  these  interests  in 
view,  and,  especially  if  we  have  large  establishments  of 
this  kind  near  us,  plant  for  their  especial  needs.  Then, 
by  observation  and  inquiry,  see  what  does  best  in  your 
neighborhood,  and  I  assure  you  that  this  is  important. 


PEACH   AND  THE   PEAR.  II7 

for  the  same  peach  may  act  differently  even  on  adjoining 
farms,  or  even  fields.  Study  the  peculiar  soil  that  each 
variety  demands.  Before  you  plant,  decide  whether  you 
will  plant  particularly  for  canning,  or  evaporating,  or  for 
shipping,  or,  will  you  combine  all  .'  If  you  have  a  retail 
market  near  you,  and  Wish  to  retail,  particularly  if  your 
orchard  is  small,  study  well  the  demands  of  this  market. 
In  my  own  orchards,  of  over  ten  thousand  trees,  I  don't 
think  I  have  over  six  hundred  trees  coming  in  before 
Mountain  Rose  ;  and  had  I  to  plant  them  to-day  I  would 
not  have  that  many,  situated  as  my  orchards  are,  north 
of  Wyoming. 

In  the  answers  to  my  questions  sent  out  to  some  of 
the  most  intelligent  of  our  peninsula  fruit-growers,  will 
be  found  their  views  on  the  varieties  to  plant  in  an 
orchard  of  one  thousand  trees,  and  now  I  will  give  my 
own  views  on  this  subject. 

For  an  orchard  of  one  thousand  trees,  with  a  view 
of  selling  to  dealers  in  a  near  market,  as  Wilmington, 
for  instance,  or  of  retailing  the  fruit  in  such  a  market,  it 
being  within  driving  distance  of  me,  I  would  plant  as 
follows  : 

Yellow.  White. 

Early  Rivers,  10  Mountain  Rose,  100 

St.  John,  20  Old  Mixon,  150 

Foster,  100  Moore's  Favorite  ICXD 


ii8 


THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 


Wager,  25         Stump  the  World,         150 

Reeves'  Favorite,  20        Shipley's  Late  Red.         50 

Crawford's  Late,  100  

Brandywine,  (or  Prize,)  50  Total  white,             550 

Beer's  Smock,  100 
Wilkins'  Late  Heath 

Cling,  25 

Total  yellow,  450 
Now  the  reader  may  say,  here  are  too  many  varieties  ; 
but  recollect  it  is  for  a  retail  orchard,  near  Wilmington 
or  other  large  towns.  The  varieties  are  all  good,  of 
the  kind  demanded  here,  and  will  give  a  succession  of 
fruit  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the  season.  If  the 
grower  choose  he  may  cut  it  down  by  eliminating  such 
as  Wager,  Reeves,  Brandywine,  and  Shipley's  Late 
Red,  and  substitute  for  them,  additional  Crawford's  Late, 
Beer's  Smock  and  old  Mixon,  but  in  my  opinion  he  will 
diminish  his  chances  of  always  having  fruit. 

For   an    orchard    of   one    thousand    trees    south    of 
Wyoming  I  would  plant  as  follows  : 
AN    ORCHARD    OF 


Yellow. 
Early  Rivers, 
St.  John, 


ONE    THOUSAND    TREES    SOUTH    OF 
WYOMING. 

White. 
50         Troth's  Early  Red,  25 

25         Old  Mixon,  175 


(Note. — In  lajge  orchaids  never  plant  a  few  peaches  of  one  variety 
unless  for  experiment.  Less  than  fifty  trees  of  one  variety  are  a  nuisance  if 
you  have  five  thousand  trees  or  more. ) 


PEACH   AND   THE  PEAR.  119 


Crawford's  Early, 

50 

Moore's  favorite, 

100 

Foster, 

50 

Stump  the  World, 

200 

Wager. 

25 

Fox's  Seedling, 

75 

Beer's  Smock, 

150 

Shipley's  Late  Red, 

50 

Salway, 

25 



Total  White. 

625 

Total  Yellow, 

375 

I  put  in  Salway  here  because  it  is  a  peach  for  light, 
sandy  soil,  and  will  do  best  of  these  late  peaches,  but  I 
don't  fancy  any  of  them  greatly,  because  the  edge  of  the 
market  is  gone,  they  are  not  sought  for, and  the  northern 
peaches  are  so  much  better  in  the  varieties  they  send  at 
this  time.  Probably,  Shipley's  Late  Red  would  pay 
better  than  these  25  Salways. 

FOR   AN   ORCHARD   OF   ONE   THOUSAND   TREES   AROUND 
WYOMING    AND   DOVER. 

Here  we  need  good  shippers,  good  evaporators,  and 
good  canners — and  have  a  soil  combining  most  of  the 
advantages  to  grow  them  in.  For  this  region  I  give  the 
list  of  Jacob  G.  Brown,  of  Camdem,  with  a  slight  modifi- 
cation from  the  list  of  Dr.  Henry  Ridgely,  of  Dover.  I 
know  of  no  better  authorities  on  peaches  anywhere,  than 
these  two  gentlemen. 


Yellozv. 

White. 

Early  Rivers, 

25 

Troth's  Early  Red, 

25 

Foster, 

25 

Old  Mixon, 

100 

25 

Moore's  Favorite, 

50 

50 

Stump  the  World, 

150 

25 

Fox's  Seedling, 

ICO 

75 

Variegated  Free, 

25 

25 

Shipley's  Late  Red, 

25 

lOO 

Wilkin's  White  Heath 

25 

Cling, 

25 

Temple's  Late  White, 

25 

375 

Brown's  Choice, 

100 

•120  THE   CULTIVAVION    OF   THE 

St.  John, 

Crawford's  Early, 
Christiana.  No.  2, 
Crawford's  Late, 
Brandywine  or  Prize, 
Beer's  Smock. 
Gearys  Hold-on, 

Total  Yellow, 

Total  White,  625 

Here  are  nineteen  varieties,  a  good  many,  truly,  but 
in  this  hive  of  peach  industry,  we  want  the  fruit  at  all 
times,  and  under  all  circumstances,  to  eat,  to  can,  to 
evaporate,  to  ship,  and  it  must  possess  qualities  for  all 
these  purposes.  I  have  increased  stumps  here,  for  it  is 
a  grand  peach  to  ship,  to  can,  and  next  to  smock,  the 
best  to  evaporate,  and  is  profitable  in  any  way  you  can 
take  it ;  it  is  a  good  and  regular  bearer,  and,  oh, 
such  a  pretty  peach  to  look  upon.  You  will  notice  in 
this  list  that  the  white  fruit  slightly  predominates.  I 
believe  this  is  as  it  should  be,  for  profit.  It  is  more  sure 
in  bearing,  standing  the  frost  better.  It  is  grand  fruit  to 
ship,  to  can,  to  evaporate,  and  to  eat.  Perhaps,  to-day, 
the  yellow  fruit  predominates  on  the  peninsula,  but  I  am 
a  firm  believer  in  making  the  division  as  to  color,  near 
or  quite  even,  in  order  to  facilitate  the  proper  regulation 
t)i  the  business. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  121 

FOR   AN    ORCHARD   OF    ONE   THOUSAND    TREES    NORTH 
OF   WYOMING   AND   DOVER. 

Yelloiv.  White. 

St.  John,  25  Mountain  Rose,  50 

Crawford's  Early,  25  Old  Mixon,  150 

Foster,  25  Moore's  Favorite,  75 

Wager,  25  Stump  the  World,  150 

Crawford's  Late,  100  Fox's  Seedling,  lOO 

Brandywine  or  Prize,  50  Steven's  Late,  25 

Beer's  Smock,  150  Shipley's  Late  Red,  25 

Wilkins'  White  Heath 

Total  Yellow,  400            Cling,  25 

Total  White,  600 

Here  I  commence  with  Mountain  Rose,  because  I 
think  there  is  no  profit  or  satisfaction  in  growing  the 
extra  early  peaches  in  this  district. 

For  a  family  orchard  on  the  peninsula,  I  would 
recommend  the  following  varieties,  which  will  give 
peaches  to  eat  all  through  the  season,  and  peaches  to  can, 
peaches  to  evaporate,  and  for  all  kinds  of  preserves, 
pickles,  etc. 

A      PENINSULA      FAMILY      PEACH      ORCHARD      OF      ONE 

HUNDRED   TREES. 

Yellozv.  White. 

Early  Rivers,  2         Early  Alexander,  i 

St.  John,  2         Troth's  Early  Red,  2 


122  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 


Foster, 

3 

Mountain  Rose, 

3 

Crawford's  Early, 

Old  Mixon, 

10 

Wager, 

Moore's  Favorite, 

5 

Reeves'  Favorite, 

Stump  the  World, 

13 

Crawford's  Late, 

Fox's  Seedling, 

3 

Brandywine  or  Prize, 

Shipley's  Late  Red, 

3 

Smock, 

15 

Brown's  Choice. 

4 

Geary's  Hold  On, 

Wilkins'  White  Heath 

Henrietta  Cling, 

2 

Cling, 

5 

Total  Yellow, 

50 

Bilyeu's  Late  October, 
Total  White, 

I 
50 

TABLE     SHOWING     THE     TIME     OF     RIPENING     OF    THE 

LEADING     VARIETIES    OF   PEACHES   GROWN   ON 

THE    PENINSULA. 

Of  course,  neither  this  nor  any  other  table  of  the 
kind  can  be  absolutely  correct,  but  I  believe  it  will  give 
the  average  time  of  ripening,  taking,  say,  an  average 
of  five  years,  and  will  be  a  valuable  table  for  reference. 
It  is  made  out  for  the  latitude  of  Wyoming,  and  for 
every  ten  miles  south  of  Wyoming  anticipate  one  day, 
and  for  every  ten  miles  north  of  Wyoming,  add  one  day. 

Early  Alexander,  (White,  Free),  July  i  to  7. 
Amsden's  June,  (White,  Free),  July  i  to  7. 
Early  Beatrice,  (White,  Free).  July  15  to  20. 
Early  Louise,  (White,  Free),  July  20  to  25. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I23 

Early  Rivers,  (Pale-Yellow,  Free),  July  20  to  25. 
Hale's  Early,  (White,  Semi-Free),  Aug-.  4  to  7. 
Troth's     Early    Red,    (White,    Free,    Red    Centre 
Peach),  Aug.  15  to  20. 

Mountain  Rose,  (White,  Free),  Aug.  23. 

St.  John,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  25. 

Large  Early  York,  (White,  Free),  Aug.  25. 

Foster,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  15  to  18. 

Crawford's  Early,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  15  to  20. 

Wager,  (Pale-Yellow,  Free).  Aug.  20  to  25. 

Reeves'  Favorite,  Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  20. 

Moore's  Favorite,  (White,  Free),  Aug.  23. 

Old  Mixon,  (White,  Free),  Aug.  25. 

President,  (White,  Free),  Aug.  27. 

Susquehanna,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  31. 

Pullen,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  31. 

Stump  the  World,  (White,  Free),  Sept    i. 

Crawford's  Late,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  30. 

Ward's  Late  Free,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  i  to  2. 

Christiana,  No.  2,  (Yellow,  Free),  Sept.  2. 

Sallie  Worrall,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  i. 

Fox's  Seedling,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  5  to  7. 

Brandywine,  or  Prize,  (Yellow,  Free),  Sept.  8  to  10. 

Shipley's  Late  Red,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  10. 

Variegated  Free,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  12. 

Smock,  (Yellow,  Free),  Sept.  13. 

Crockett's  White,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  14. 


124  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Beer's  Smock,  (Yellow,  Free),  Sept.  15. 

Keyport  Late,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  18. 

Stephen's  Late,  (White,  Free),  Sept.  20. 

Salway,  (Yellow,  Free),  Sept.  20  to  25. 

Allen's  Late  October,  (Yellow,  Free),  Oct.  i  to  10, 

Bilyeu's  Late  October,  (White,  Free),  Oct.  i  to":i2. 

Geary's  Hold  On,  (Yellow,  Free), 'Sept.  23  to  25. 

Temple's  Late  White,  Sept.  15. 

Magnum  Bonum,  (Yellow,  Free),  Sept.  6  to  10. 

White  Heath  Cling,  (White,  Cling),  Oct.  i  to  5. 

Wilkin's  White  Heath  Cling,  (White,  Cling),  Oct. 
I  to  5. 

Wheatland,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  30. 

Henrietta,  (Yellow,  Cling),  last  of  Sept.  to  Oct.  5. 

Mary's  Choice,  (Yellow,  Free),  Aug.  20. 

Bequette  Free,  (White),  very  large,  and  is  pro- 
ductis^e,  Sept.  i. 

Golden  Beauty,  Yellow,  Ripens  near  St.  John, 
Aug.  18. 

Lord  Palmerston,  (White,  Pale  Red,  Large),  very 
late,  said  to  be  sure  and  productive. 

Arkansas  Traveler,  (White),  Ripens  with  Alexander. 

Bonanza,  (White,  Free),  very  large,  15  days  later 
than  Salway.     Productive. 

Kilborn  or  Canada  Iron-clad,  July  20  to  25. 

Mrs.  Brett,  (White),  Aug.  20,  very  large,  and 
exactly  like  Old  Mixon.  Productive.  Recommended 
as  the  best  peach  grown. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  12$ 

Onward,  (Yellow),  like  Foster.  Good  color.  Large 
bloom. 

Topaz,  (Yellow),  large.  Large  bloom,  sure  and 
productive. 

Early  Beauty,  comes  about  with  St.  John. 

The  time  of  ripening,  as  given  in  this  table,  is  to  be 
understood  to  refer  to  the  time  when  the  peach  is  in  a 
fit  condition  to  be  gathered  for  shipping  to  distant 
markets. 


TABLE   SHOWING   THE  APPRECIATION   OF   THE   QUALITY 

OF  SOME  OF  THE  LEADING  VARIETIES  OF  PEACHES, 

taken  chiefly  from  the  Reports  of  the  New  Jersey  State  Horticultural  Society. 

«r^^^  Total  No.         Possible  No. 

^^"^^'  of  Merits.  of  Merits. 

Alexander's  Early, 21  40 

Amsden's  June, 14  35 

Early  Beatrice, 7  25 

Early  Louise, 4  10   ' 

Early  Rivers 5  10 

Mountain  Rose,    54  55 

Large  Early  York  or  Honest  John,  35  50 

Troth's  Early  Red, 26  45 

Crawford's  Early, 36  50 

Foster, 15  20 

Wager, 15  25 

Wheatland, 8  10 


126  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

w                                                Total  No.  Possible  No. 

-^^*"^-                                          of  Merits.  of  Merits. 

Mrs.  Brett, 15  35 

Stump-the-World, 52  60 

Old  Mixon, 59  60 

Lord  Palmerston, 18  25 

Crawford's  Late, 60  60 

Fox's  Seedling, 14  15 

Steven's   Late 17  20 

Keyport  White, 18  30 

Beer's  Smock,    42  50 

Salway, 19  45 

Bilyeu's  October, 11  .20 

Moore's  Favorite, 25  35 

Smock, 38  50 

Brown's  Choice, 43  50 

Mary's  Choice, 36  50 

Magnum  Bonum, 40  50 

Brandywine  or  prize, 40  50 

Golden  Beauty, 30  45 

Bequette  Free, 25  45 

Sally  Worrall, 30  45 

As  I  said  before,  many  of  these  reports  are  taken 
from  the  New  Jersey  State  Horticultural  Society,  and  a 
few  I  have  added  in  accord  with  my  own  opinions. 


Chapter  VII 


GATHERING   THE  CROP,    OR  PICKING    PEACHES. 

The  crop  having  arrived  at  the  point  of  perfection 
in  growth,  its  handling  now  comes  to  be  of  the  greatest 
importance,  for  on  the  picking  of  the  fruit,  taking  it 
neither  too  hard,  or  too  soft,  from  the  trees,  depends  in 
a  great  measure,  the  condition  in  which  it  will  reach  the 
markets,  and  if  this  condition  be  anything  but  right, 
serious  loss  will  ensue. 

The  trees  being  rather  small,  many  of  the  peaches 
can  be  picked  from  the  ground,  but  when  they  are  too 
high  for  this  method  of  gathering,  the  picker  pulls  down 
the  limb  with  a  hook,  made,  usually,  from  a  forked  stick 
of  some  tough  wood,  one  side  of  the  fork  being  cut  off 
to  about  four  or  five  inches  long,  and  the  other  running 
out  six  or  eight  feet,  to  form  the  handle.  This  is  used 
from  the  ground,  or,  if  necessary,  the  picker  mounts  a 
ladder,  or  steps,  called  a  peach  ladder,  and  fills  his 
basket,  setting  it  on  a  shelf  prepared  for  it,  on  the  top 
part  of  the  ladder.  The  wood  of  the  peach  is  brittle 
and    easily  split    or  broken,   and    pickers  ought  to  be 


128  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

frequently  cautioned  to  be  careful  to  work  gently,  and 
to  break  or  split  as  few  limbs  as  possible.  If  you  are 
picking  for  long  shipments  you  must  take  the  fruit  fully 
formed,  but  hard.  If  for  a  near-by  market,  you  may 
let  it  fill  up  more,  and  even  show  signs  of  ripening,  but 
not  softness.  If  you  are  picking  for  canners  you  want 
it  full  and  ripe,  but  not  soft,  and,  for  the  evaporator,  you 
can  use  it  hard,  soft,  or  very  soft.  This  evaporator  is  a 
great  help  to  the  grower,  but  equally  as  much  the  enemy 
to  his  pen  of  hogs.  Formerly,  the  pigs  got  everything 
that  could  not  be  shipped.  Now  the  evaporator  has 
changed  all  this,  and  no  part  of  the  crop  goes  amiss. 

I  think,  sometimes,  many  of  our  peaches  are  picked 
a  few  days  too  soon,  for  by  letting  them  remain  on  the 
trees  until  a  few  drop,  the  remainder  swell,  measuring 
better,  and  the  dropped  ones  go  to  the  evaporator,  so 
that,  altogether,  we  get  a  better  profit.  Nevertheless, 
this  getting  the  peach  off  the  tree,  at  just  the  right  time, 
requires  great  experience  and  good  judgment,  and,  of 
the  two  errors,  picking  them  too  hard  will  be  the  least 
costly.  The  peaches  are  picked  at  random,  in  the 
orchard,  as  to  size,  but  with  care  as  to  condition,  and 
most  varieties  will  require  going  over  at  least  three  times, 
on  as  many  different  days.  As  they  are  picked  they  are 
taken  to  the  peach  house,  which  may  be  a  temporary 
structure  in  the  orchard  or  near  it,  or  to  the  farm-barn, 
or  granary.  Here  they  are  sorted  into  grades,  and  the  Del- 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I29 

aware  Fruit  Exchange  grades  are  the  proper  ones.  No. 
I,  No.  2,  No.  3,  and  fancy,  or  double  extra.  What  are  left 
after  this  sorting,  goes  to  the  evaporator,  or  the  hogs, 
and,'in  seasons  of  great  plenty,  probably.  No.  3  is  not 
often  profitably  shipped.  They  are  culled  by  hand,  or 
by  Jones'  Peach-Culler.  Peaches  should  be  handled  by 
hand,  and  never  poured  from  one  receptacle  to  another, 
when  possible  to  avoid  it,  for  hand-culled  fruit  always 
looks  the  best,  but  when  the  crop  is  large  and  help  is 
short,  the  peach-culler  will  be  found  of  very  great  use. 
When  the  peaches  have  been  culled  and  put  in  their 
proper  receptacles — baskets  or  crates — they  are  ready  for 
the  last  touches,  sprigging  the  tops  (if  baskets)  with 
twigs  and  green  leaves  of  the  peach,  or  putting  on 
wooden  or  muslin  covers.  We  don't  often  cover  any 
except  "  Fancy",  and  don't  sprig  any  below  No.  i,  but  a 
great  deal  depends  on  the  demands  of  your  intended 
market.  The  next  step  is  to  take  the  baskets  or  crates 
of  peaches  to  the  cars  or  boat.  This  should  always  be 
done  in  a  spring  wagon,  and  then  you  can  drive  as  fast 
as  peach  men  generally  drive,  and  that  is  fast,  I  assure 
you.  Loading  them  carefully,  ends  the  active  participa- 
tion of  the  grower  in  handling  his  crop. 

MARKETING    THE    CROP. 

Here   comes   in    the   most    responsible,   the    most 
perplexing,  and  often  the  most  annoying  part  of  this 
whole   hazardous   business.      The   peach   is   perishable, 
9 


130  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

swiftly  perishable,  and  whatever  is  done  with  it  must  be 
done  quickly  or  it  will  cease  to  represent  value.  This 
being-  the  case,  as  with  all  other  such  merchandize,  their 
handling  is  expensive,  because  the  animals  which  bring 
them  from  the  orchard  must  move  quickly,  the  men  who 
load  them  must  move  quickly,  and  the  cars  or  boats  that 
transport  them,  must  have  extra-quick  dispatch.  The 
whole  business  is  done,  as  it  were,  on  the  run,  and  when 
one  comes  to  investigate  the  difference  between 
transporting  a  ton  of  freight  an  hundred  miles,  at  the 
rate  of  fifteen  miles  an  hour,  and  transporting  it  the  same 
distance  at  the  rate  of  forty  miles  an  hour,  he  can 
appreciate,  in  some  degree,  why  we  are  compelled  to  pay 
high  prices  for  transporting  our  fruit.  It  is  a  grand  and 
sure  business  to  the  transportation  companies,  but  a  very 
precarious  one  to  the  producer,  this  matter  of  seeking 
distant  markets  for  our  peaches,  at  high  rates  of  speed. 
There  is  no  shadow  of  doubt  of  one  thing,  that  is,  it  is  to 
the  interest  of  the  grower  to  sell  his  fruit  at  his  railroad 
station  or  steamboat  landing,  or,  in  other  words,  it  is  to 
the  growers  interest  to  bring  the  buyer  as  near  to  him  as 
possible  and  there  sell  him  his  fruit,  and  let  the  buyer 
ship  to  distant  points,  where  he  has  his  market  well  in 
hand,  and  has  the  choice  of  fruit  to  supply  it.  The 
grower  has  the  advantage  of  personally  supervising  the 
sale,  and  has  a  share  in  making  his  prices  ;  whereas,  if  he 
ships  to  commission  men,  be   they   ever  so  honest,  he 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I3I 

knows  absolutely  nothing  of  the  sale  of  his  fruit  in  a 
hurried  crowd  and  a  distant  market,  over  which  he  has 
not  the  least  control.  As  to  the  buyer,  he  has  great 
advantages,  too.  He  deals  with  the  producer,  he  gets 
his  fruit  fresh,  he  buys  through  the  Delaware  Fruit 
Exchange,  or  ought  to,  and  has  the  benefit  of  inspection 
of  the  fruit  by  a  sworn  Inspector  at  the  point  he  may 
happen  to  buy,  and,  above  all,  he  sends  his  fruit  to  his 
market  in  good  order  with  no  re-handling  or  transship- 
ment. "  Bring  buyers  to  your  stations  !  "  should  be  the 
rallying  cry  of  the  Peninsula  Fruit  Growers,  and  I  sin- 
cerely believe  that,  to  a  man,  they  should  take  up  the 
Delaware  Fruit  Exchange,  elaborate  it,  and  bring  it 
to  the  perfection  its  enterprising  originators  are  striving 
for.  A  successful  shipment  to  Europe  was  made  this 
year  by  one  of  the  Messrs.  Cochran,  of  Middletown,  in 
individual  crates,  and  I  learn  it  was  in  every  way 
successful.  This  would  make  a  desirable  outlet  for 
fancy  fruit. 

THE  DELAWARE  FRUIT   EXCHANGE 

is  a  corporation  of  the  State  of  Delaware.  Capital 
$300,000.  Capital  stock,  30,000  shares,  at  ten  dollars 
per  share.  W.  H.  Ridgeway,  President  ;  A.  N.  Brown, 
Secretary. 

Its  objects  are,  first,  to  bring  buyers  to  the  railroad 
stations. 


132  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Second.  To  secure  and  maintain  confidence  between 
buyers  and  sellers  by  providing  for  inspection  of  the 
fruit,  and  branding  the  same  according  to  quality,  as 
follows  :  "  Fancy,"  highest  brand  ;  No.  i,  second  highest  ; 
No.  2,  third  highest  ;  and  No.  3,  the  lowest  brand. 

Third.  To  sell  by  auction  to  the  highest  bidder,  for 
cash.  For  this  sale,  with  inspection,  the  charge  is  one 
cent  per  basket,  to  be  paid  by  the  grower. 

Fourth.  The  headquarters  to  be  at  Wyoming, 
Kent  County,  Delaware,  with  inspectors  at  such  other 
stations  on  the  Peninsula,  as  may  be  desired,  or  may  be 
practicable  ;  these  branch  inspectors  to  inspect  and 
grade  the  fruit,  and  report  it  when  so  graded  and 
inspected  by  the  car-load,  to  Wyoming,  when  it  is  to  be 
put  up  and  sold  by  the  car-load  to  the  highest  bidder, 
with  the  grade  guaranteed  by  the  Delaware  Fruit 
Exchange.  This  is  business,  and  there  is  absolute  con- 
fidence guaranteed  betv/een  buyer  and  seller  ;  the  profit 
and  satisfaction  to  each  can  only  be  appreciated  by 
those  who  thus  transact  this  business. 

Only  stockholders  can  sell  fruit  in  the  Exchange, 
but  a  non-stockholder  may  sell  his  fruit  through  a 
stockholder,  by  paying  the  usual  commission  of  one 
cent  per  basket. 

The  expenses  of  the  Exchange  are  :  pay  for 
inspectors,   for   travelling   agents    looking    up    markets, 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I33 

now  and  again,  (this  feature  I  deem  very  advantageous 
to  the  fruit  growers,)  their  temporary  headquarters  at 
Wyoming,  with  such  incidentals  as  printing,  etc  ; 
certainly  an  economical  corporation. 

This  year  the  Exchange  sold,  at  Wyoming,  fifty 
thousand  baskets  of  peaches  of  the  three  hundred 
thousand  baskets  brought  to  that  station.  The  fruit 
sold  through  the  Exchange  averaged  45  cents  more 
per  basket,  than  that  sold  outside. 

The  Fruit  Exchange  is  a  success,  now,  and  will  be 
more  of  a  success  when  there  comes  a  large  crop  and 
more  fruit  than  buyers.  This  year,  (1885,)  there  were 
more  buyers  than  fruit.  When  the  large  crop  comes,  the 
Exchange  will  cause  all  to  put  up  their  fruit  honestly, 
according  to  the  brand,  and  this  will  cause  the  buyer  to 
prefer  the  Exchange  to  buying  from  outsiders,  who  have 
no  guarantee  to  their  fruit  by  the  Exchange  inspectors, 
and  this  inspection  must  be  a  cardinal  point  in  Exchange- 
law,  if  it  is  to  go  on  prospering.  A  large  station  is 
an  advantage,  and  Wyoming  has  this  advantage.  Her 
growers  ought  to  sell  their  fruit  there,  and  not  ship  it, 
and  thus  draw  buyers  ;  for  there  is  more  profit  in  the 
Exchange  than  in  shipping.  I  am  satisfied  that  had  I 
had  my  own  fruit  at  Wyoming  station  this  year,  and 
sold  through  the  Exchange,  instead  of  shipping, 
as  I  did,  to  Philadelphia,  Newark,  N.  J.,  and  New  York, 


134  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

I  would  have  cleared  at  least  thirty  cents  more  per 
basket  on  my  fruit  than  I  did  clear.  This  financial 
argument  is  strong-  enough  for  me  to  wish  for  the 
advantages  of  the  Delaware  Fruit-Exchange. 

There  are  some  things  which  operate  against  the 
success  of  the  Exchange,  and  one  is,  the  interference  of 
the  local  middle-men  ;  and  again,  all  the  farmers  not 
selling  through  the  Exchange  ;  and  again,  the  lacking, 
in  some  instances,  of  absolute  good  faith,  or  in  other 
words,  of  strict  honesty  among  the  growers. 

Use  the  Exchange,  cultivate  absolute  good  faith 
between  buyer  and  seller  and  between  growers  ;  do 
everything  to  extend  the  Exchange  to  all  points  on  the 
peninsula,  and  the  whole  thing  will  be  a  graud  success, 
morally,  physically  and  financially,  and  this  new  system 
of  disposing  of  the  products  of  our  orchards,  this  grand 
purveyor  of  good  faith  between  the  buyer  and  seller,  and 
between  man  and  man,  will  add  thousands  of  dollars, 
yearly,  to  the  coffers  of  the  good  people  of  the  peninsula  ; 
will  raise  a  lasting  monument  to  the  good  and  true  men 
who  conceived  it,  and  will  be  another  round,  scaled  by 
this  Heaven-favored  region,  on  the  glorious  ladder  of 
modern  progress. 

The  fruit  not  sold  at  the  stations,  or  wharves,  is 
shipped  to  the  great  market-centres,  Boston,  New  York, 
Philadelphia  and  other  points,  and  is  sold  by  commission 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I35 

men  by  the  package.  The  commission  men  guarantee  to 
return  the  baskets,  report  sales  daily,  and  make  returns 
weekly,  charging  about  ten  per  cent,  on  the  gross  amount 
of  sales.  There  is  some  fruit  sold  to  local  canners,  evapo- 
raters  and  traders,  and  by  all  these  means  combined  is 
the  crop  disposed  of.  The  best  and  favorite  package  is 
the  standard  |  bushel-basket,  without  top  or  cover  ; 
some  of  these  are  covered  with  muslin  for  fancy  fruit, 
and  some  have  wooden  tops,  which  are  rather  a  new 
idea,  and  enable  the  baskets  to  be  packed  without  danger 
to  their  contents,  and  very  closely. 

Another  package  is  the  crate,  of  wood,  |  bushel, 
with  two  compartments  of  equal  size.  These  packages 
are  used,  principally,  for  the  Baltimore  market,  where 
they  are  popular  for  some  varieties  of  peaches.  There 
are  also  small  fancy  baskets  of  one  gallon,  and  six  quarts, 
each  ;  these  are  generally  sent  packed  in  a  thirty-two 
quart  berry-crate,  and  this  holds  eight  gallon-baskets, 
and  six  six-quart  baskets  ;  these  are  only  used  for  extra 
early  or  fancy  fruit. 


Chapter  VIII 


CANNING   THE   PEACH. 

Hermetically  sealing,  or  as  it  is  now  commonly 
called,  canning  the  peach,  is  a  method  of  preservation 
very  largely  practised  at  present  on  the  peninsula,  and 
the  peach  is  preserved  with  all  its  flavor,  and  other  attri- 
butes wonderfully  maintained.  At  a  time  when  the  ripe 
fruit  cannot  be  got,  or  to  those  who  are  never  able  to 
get  it,  the  canned  peach  is  an  admirable  substitute. 

There  is  much  history  in  this  word  "canning,"  and 
as  Trench  would  have  followed  out  such  a  word,  we 
might  trace  in  it  a  good  part  of  the  history  of  fruit-culture 
on  the  peninsula.  The  first  time  I  ever  saw  the  process 
was  in  a  frame  building  on  the  far  side  of  the  canal,  in 
St.  Georges,  more  than  thirty  years  ago,  where  the  late 
Dr.  John  H.  Fromberger  was  engaged  in  putting  up  the 
fruit,  and  for  the  purpose  used  glass  jars.  He  succeeded 
admirably  in  putting  on  the  market  a  good  article,  and 
made  large  shipments  to  Europe,  but  his  business 
methods  proved  defective,  and  he  soon  abandoned  the 
enterprise. 


138  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

I  think  he  obtained  his  process  from  the  heirs  of  a 
Mr.  Smith,  who  had,  in  his  life-time,  been  largely 
engaged  in  preserving  and  pickling  various  fruits  and 
vegetables.  From  that  date  until  the  present  the  busi- 
ness has  grown  enormously,  and  some  of  our  enterprising 
peninsula  firms  have  trade-marks,  which  are  worth  a 
handsome  fortune  to  their  possessors.  Glass  and  tin  are 
both  used  for  the  package,  but  tin,  in  nine  cases  in  ten,  is 
the  material  employed.  It  appears  to  me  to  be  a 
perfectly  safe  and  healthy  can.  The  contents  are 
hermetically-sealed,  all  solder  is  placed  on  the  exterior, 
and  on  the  exterior  only,  in  well  regulated  establish- 
ments, and  there  can  be  no  poisonous  substance 
developed  where  there  is  no  oxydation.  Where  the  can 
is  air-tight  there  can  be  no  oxydation,  and  if  the  can  is 
not  air-tight  the  contents  spoil,  and  are  thus  rendered 
unfit  for  food.  The  question  is  often  asked,  how  long  can 
an  article  of  food  remain  with  safety  in  a  tin  receptacle, 
hermetically-sealed,  and  be  safely  used  for  food.  I 
answer,  one  hundred  years,  if  the  can  will  remain  intact 
that  long.  There  can  be  no  change  in  the  contents 
without  air  entering  the  can,  and  when  air  enters  the 
can,  decomposition  takes  place,  and  this  we  soon  find  out 
by  its  physical  properties,  and  would  no  more  eat  it 
than  we  would  eat  any  other  spoiled  food.  Food-sup- 
plies, hermetically-sealed,  take  no  account  of  time.  One 
hundred  years   to  them,  is  no  more  than  one  hundred 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I39 

days  ;  no  change  can  go  on  in  them,  no  fermentation  can 
arise,  for  there  can  be  no  proliferation  of  bacteria,  for 
there  is  no  air  present,  no  oxygen  for  the  processes  of 
oxydation  ;  hence  there  can  be  no  reaction  between 
the  contents  of  the  can  and  the  tin,  and  hence,  nothing 
injurious  to  health  can  be  developed  in  tin  recep- 
tacles of  this  kind,  which  are  absolutely  air-tight,  and 
soldered  entirely  on  the  outside.  I  admit  that  glass 
is  a  more  refined  and  a  cleaner  material  for  the  packages, 
but  the  trouble  is  to  hermetically  seal  it  ;  it  is  more 
costly,  in  the  first  place,  and  there  is  great  loss  from  air 
entering,  both  in  the  hands  of  the  producers,  the  middle 
men,  and  the  consumers.  The  method  of  hermetically- 
preserving  is  simple,  and  the  first  requisite  is  absolute 
cleanliness  in  every  detail  of  the  business.  The  opera- 
tors, the  knives,  all  the  utensils,  the  tables,  the  floors, 
the  buildings,  the  grounds,  must  be  kept  scrupulously 
clean  ;  nothing  should  be  allowed  to  ferment  within  a 
mile  of  a  canning  establishment. 

The  first  step  is  to  grade  the  fruit,  then  pare  it 
and  usually  cut  it  in  half,  although  some  is  canned 
whole.  Then  the  fruit  is  put  in  copper-trays,  and  steamed 
in  the  steam-box  ;  this  softens  and  wilts  the  fruit. 
The  next  step  is  to  put  the  fruit  into  the  cans  or  jars  ; 
then  pour  over  the  fruit,  hot  syrup,  of  the  proper  density 
for  the  brand  ;  eight  pounds  of  sugar  to  twelve  cans  is  a 
heavy  syrup.    The  cans,  when  full,  weigh,  usually,  3  lbs., 


I40  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

and  the  usual  guarantee  is  2  lbs.  13  oz.  The  next  step 
is  to  solder  the  cans,  or  stop  the  glass  packages  ;  the 
next  step  is  stopping  the  vent,  and  finally,  the  recepta- 
cles are  put  in  the  bath  and  boiled.  The  bath  cooks  the 
contents  to  some  extent  and  tests  the  package.  A  leak 
causes  a  bubbling,  and  those  packages  are  taken  out  and 
repaired.  The  next  process  is  labeling,  and  the  last  is 
the  packing  in  cases  for  shipment.  They  are  generally 
divided  into  white  and  yellow  fruit,  by  the  trade,  and, 
as  such,  are  labeled  on  the  packages  ;  it  not  being  the 
custom  to  note  the  variety. 

CONSERVES. 

Peaches  make  delicious  conserves.  It  is  necessary 
to  nearly  half  preserve  them  with  syrup,  then  dry  them 
on  dishes, in  the  sun,  covering  them  to  keep  off  insects, 
and,  when  thoroughly  dry,  pack  them  carefully  in  pul- 
verized white  sugar.     They  will  thus  keep  for  years. 

PEACH    LEATHER. 

Pare  the  peaches  and  seed  them,  and  pass  the  pulp 
through  a  colander  ;  then  spread  it  thin  on  smooth  boards 
or  marble  slabs,  well  greased  with  pure  olive  oil.  Now 
dry  in  the  sun.  Eight  hours  hot  sun  will  usually  cure  it. 
Then  draw  the  leather  from  the  board  or  marble,  and  cut 
it  in  shapes  to  suit  ;.  the  best  being  strips  three  feet  long 
by  four  inches  wide.  Sprinkle  these  strips  with  white 
pulverized  sugar,  and  roll  them  up  tight.     It  will  keep  a 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I4I 

long  time.  When  finished  it  is  really  desiccated  peach 
rolled  in  sugar. 

PRESERVES,   PICKLES,  MARMALADES, 

and  many  other  good  things  are  made  from  the  peach, 
which  are  described  in  most  of  the  works  on  cooking,  to 
which,  for  information,  the  reader  is  referred. 

PEACH-BRANDY. 

A  good  article  of  brandy,  which  has  its  own  pecu- 
liar properties,  is  made  from  the  peach.  Now  while  any 
brandy  in  large  quantities  is  bad  for  a  person,  peach- 
brandy  is  said,  on  account  of  the  prussic  acid  it  contains, 
to  be  a  very  dangerous  tipple  if  indulged  in  freely.  For- 
merly, a  considerable  quantity  was  manufactured  on  the 
peninsula,  but  the  stringent  excise  laws  of  recent  years 
have  caused  most  persons  to  abandon  its  manufacture. 
I  would  say  to  any  friend  going  down  the  State  as  far  as 
Georgetown,  the  fair  capital  of  Sussex  County,  that  a 
gentle  whisper  into  the  ear  of  our  worthy  Governor 
would  produce  such  a  sample  of  "Peach,"  as  we,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  State,  scarcely  wot  of,  and  with  the 
addition  of  a  little  peninsula  honey  and  pure  spring 
water,  he  would  convey  to  his  lips  a  compound  which 
would  reach  further  into  the  recesses  of  his  inner  man, 
than  any  nectar  the  Great  Jupiter  ever  sipped.  Other- 
wise obtained,  I  advise  mortal  man  to  be  chary  of  this 
beverage.    One  indulgence  is  said  to  make  one  feel  good. 


142  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

The  second  makes  one  feel  better,  and  the  third  makes 
him  feel  as  though  he  owned  the  whole  Delaware  and 
Chesapeake  Peninsula.  But  the  next  day — the  awak- 
ing— ah,  the  awaking,  surely,  instead  of  owning  the 
whole  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  Peninsula,  he  finds  his 
possessions,  (A  friend  at  my  elbow  suggests,  "  except 
his  head,")  shrunken  to  a  size  Liliput  might  spurn. 
EVAPORATING  THE  PEACH. 
Evaporating,  drying,  or  desiccating  the  peach  is  a 
recent  introduction  and  has,  in  a  measure,  revolutionized 
the  whole  business.  As  there  are  probably  now  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  thousand  acres  of  peach  trees  in  bearing, 
and  the  average  yield  may,  probably,  be  one  hundred 
baskets  per  acre,  per  year,  we  can  well  see  what  a  boon 
to  the  growers  there  must  be  in  any  agent  which  shall 
prove  a  factor  in  relieving  the  market  of  surplus  stock, 
and  particularly  of  those  grades  of  fruit  which  it  does 
not  pay  to  ship.  Especially  would  this  be  the  case  with 
a  phenomenal  crop,  when  the  yield  might  run  up  to  six 
or  eight  millions  of  baskets.  It  is  in  these  cases  that 
the  evaporator  comes  in,  and  for  its  introduction  the 
fruit  growers  are  under  many  obligations.  The  process 
consists  in  evaporating  the  moisture  of  the  fruit  by  con- 
veying it  (the  fruit)  gradually  through  hot-air  chambers, 
it  having  been  prepared  and  placed  on  metal  trays  with 
wire  surfaces  and  iron  frames,  or  on  trays  with  wooden 
frames  with  wire  surfaces.     Some  of  the  evaporators  are 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I43 

upright  and  the  trays  are  raised  up  and  down  by  an 
endless  chain,  to  give  them  more  or  less  heat.  There 
are  also  horizontal  evaporators,  and  in  these  the  trays 
are  moved  by  hand,  or  by  a  crank  arrangement.  There 
are  also  in  use  evaporators  working  by  super-heated 
steam,  supplied  from  a  boiler.  In  all  these  machines, 
experience  will  doubtless  suggest  many  improvements, 
and  I  look  upon  this  business,  as  well  as  the  general  fruit 
interests  on  this  Peninsula,  as,  comparatively,  in  their 
infancy.  The  great  value  of  this  process  lies  in  the  fact 
of  the  remarkable  retention,  by  the  fruit,  of  its  original 
flavor  and  of  its  bright  color  and  clear  condition  after 
evaporation.  I  have  no  statistics  to  tell  me  how  much 
fruit  has  been  evaporated  on  the  Peninsula  during  the  last 
two  years,  but  it  has,  doubtless,  amounted  to  thousands 
and  thousands  of  baskets.  The  market  for  the  article  is 
widening  and  gradually  extending,  but  yet  for  universal 
use  the  price  is  too  high.  When  we  can  evaporate,  to  pay, 
pared  peaches  at  twenty  cents  per  lb.  and  unpared  at 
from  ten  to  twelve  cents,  and  can  get  a  ton  of  peaches 
with  a  ton  of  coal,  then  we  can  boom  the  business,  and 
all  these  good  things  are  surely  coming,  I  hope  in  the 
very  near  future.  In  fact,  now,  in  the  well  regulated, 
large  evaporators,  I  imagine  that  they  often  get  one  ton 
of  evaporated  fruit  by  burning  one  ton  of  coal.  The 
smaller  machines  don't  do  so  well  in  this  respect. 

All  that  I  deem  necessary,  in  a  work  of  this  nature, 


144  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

is  to  give  a  resume  oi  the  methods  of  evaporating,  which 
is  as  follows  :  The  fruit  having  been  brought  to  the 
"Dry-House"  is  there  given  out  to  the  men,  women 
and  children,  who  handle  it.  If  for  pared  fruit  it  is 
pared  either  by  parers  or  by  hand.  The  little  machines 
work  well  if  the  fruit  is  hard,  but  are  of  little  use  if  the 
fruit  is  soft,  when  the  operator  uses  a  common  knife. 
The  next  movement,  after  the  peach  has  been  pared,  is 
to  cut  it  in  half  and  remove  the  stone  ;  of  course  if  you 
are  working  on  unpared,  this  is  the  first  operation. 
After  this,  the  halves  are  laid  close  together  in  a  single 
layer  on  the  wire  trays.  If  the  fruit  is  firm,  put  the  stone 
side  down,  because  we  want  to  dry  the  peach  as  flat  as 
possible,  and  this  is  the  way  the  trade  likes  the  fruit.  If 
the  fruit  is  soft,  you  place  the  stone  side  up,  or  the  peach 
will  stick,  and  much  of  its  sugar  will  go  off  with  the 
juices.  These  are  very  important  points  in  evaporating 
the  peach,  and  I  believe  with  the  stone  side  up,  we  get 
more  weight,  provided  we  remove  the  fruit  the  very 
moment  it  is  done.  Now,  here  is  one  of  the  peculiarities 
of  the  consumers  ;  they  want  nice-looking,  white  fruit, 
and  if  we  dry  the  fruit  at  once,  it  comes  out  more  or  less 
of  a  dark-brown  color,  but  to  prevent  this  the  fruit  is 
exposed  to  the  fumes  of  burning  sulphur  for  from  two  to 
three  minutes,  in  a  bleacher,  an  air-tight  box,  prepared 
for  the  purpose  ;  or  in  some  machines,  they  merely  throw 
a  small  quantity  of  sulphur  into  the  furnace  and  let  the 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  145 

the  sulphurous  acid  gas  go  through  among  all  the  trays. 
This  bleaching  of  the  fruit  I  am  not  prepared  to  say- 
renders  it  unhealthy  for  food,  but  it  is  a  great  piece  of 
foolish  vanity  and  it  should  be  stopped.  The  trays  are 
next  placed  in  the  evaporator,  and,  by  different  processes 
in  different  evaporators,  are  moved  up  and  down,  or  from 
side  to  side,  in  order  to  get  a  greater  or  lesser  degree  of 
heat.  In  from  sixteen  to  twenty-four  hours  all  the 
moisture  has  been  driven  out  and  we  only  have  the  solids 
left. 

The  fruit  is  better  if  put  in  the  common  peach- 
baskets  and  set  about  the  building  a  day  or  two,  free 
from  dust  and  dirt  of  any  kind.  It  is  then  packed, 
generally,  in  twenty-five  and  fifty-pound  boxes,  taking 
off  the  bottom  and  packing  the  top  first  ;  and  when  full, 
submitting  to  pressure  ;  then  nail  on  the  bottom  and  on 
opening  the  top  we  find  it  with  a  beautiful  layer 
of  smooth  fruit,  which  should  be  covered  with  a  layer 
of  water-proof  paper,  and  over  it  a  sheet  of  fancy 
stamped  paper.  The  box  is  then  branded  with  the 
proper  brands,  which,  as  known  to  the  trade,  are  white 
and  yellow,  and  pared  and  unpared,  with  any  fancy 
brand  one  may  choose  to  adopt.  The  better  and  more 
tastefully  the  fruit  is  gotten  up,  the  more  ready  will  be 
its  sale.  As  to  the  varieties  to  evaporate.  Troth  is  a 
good  peach,  and -as  it  comes  early,  and  gives  the  beauti- 
ful red  centres,  it  should  be  encouraged  by  the  evapo- 


146  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

rating  people.  After  Troths  there  is  no  very  good  peach 
to  evaporate  until  you  come  to  the  Stump  the  World.  Of 
course  we  do  evaporate  Early  Craivford,  Foster^  Old 
Mixon,  Moore  s,  and  such  varieties,  but  they  contain  too 
much  water,  and  don't  give  the  weight  necessary  for 
good  profit.  After  Stump,  all  the  other  peaches  are  good 
to  dry,  but  the  best  of  all  for  profit,  is  Smock.  Crawford' s 
Late  is  good,  but  as  it  pays  so  well,  generally,  to  ship,  it 
is  expensive  to  evaporate.  If  you  want  delicious  flavor, 
with  all  the  gustatory  attributes  of  a  perfect  peach, 
select  the  Old  Mixon  for  your  evaporated  fruit,  and  the 
good  housewife  is  indeed  fortunate,  who  can  make  it  her 
vade  mecum.  There  is  more  profit,  as  a  rule,  in  drying 
yellow  fruit,  because  it  brings  the  best  prices  ;  but  this 
depends  a  good  deal  on  the  humor  of  the  market,  and  I 
think  that,  at  present,  the  white  peach  is  rapidly  gaining 
in  favor.  At  the  present  prices  of  evaporated  fruit,  fifty 
cents  a  basket  is  a  large  price  to  pay  for  Smocks  to  dry, 
and  for  Old  Mixons  and  such,  thirty  cents  is  a  full  price. 
If  evaporated  fruit  will  bring,  in  the  wholesale  market, 
twenty-five  cents  per  lb.,  pared,  and  from  thirteen  to 
fifteen  cents  per  lb.,  unpared,  you  can  afford  to  buy 
orchards  to  evaporate,  at  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  cents 
per  basket,  delivered  at  the  station,  within  a  reasonable 
distance  of  your  plant,  or  at  your  plant.  Smock  will 
evaporate,  on  an  average,  say,  of  five  seasons,  three  and 
one-half    pounds  of   pared   peaches   per    basket.     They 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I47 

sometimes  run  up  to  five  pounds,  but  for  this  amount, 
you  probably  have  to  squeeze  the  basket  down  harder 
than  the  average  grower  is  accustomed  to  do.  Smock 
unpared,  ought  to  yield  from  five  to  five  and  one-half 
pounds.  Stump  the  World  will  yield  three  pounds, 
pared,  and  four  and  a-half  pounds,  unpared.  Now  take 
all  other  peaches  we  evaporate,  and  no  variety  will 
probably  yield,  on  an  average,  over  two  and  three- 
quarter  pounds,  pared,  and  from  three  and  a-half  to  four 
pounds,  unpared.  As  1  said  before,  a  ton  of  good  hard 
coal,  should  make  a  ton  of  evaporated  fruit,  when  we 
are  using  good  material  in  the  fruit.  I  believe  every 
grower  who  has  five  thousand  peach  trees,  or  even  half 
this  number,  with  the  addition  of  apple  and  pear 
orchards,  should  have  an  evaporator  of,  at  least,  fifty 
baskets  capacity,  in  twenty-four  hours.  It  will  save  all 
the  odds  and  ends,  and  such  savings  in  a  long  life  time, 
will  be  the  chief  factor  in  his  thrift,  that  will  make  him 
rich.  As  to  the  capacity  of  the  evaporator,  everything 
depends  on  the  surroundings  and  method  of  running  it ; 
some  may  turn  out  their  fruit  several  hours  short  of 
others,  but  better  management  and  better  coal,  will 
help  amazingly  the  first  one  out.  I  believe  the  average 
evaporator,  as  it  is  usually  managed  and  run  on  the 
peninsula,  will  dry,  the  season  through,  every  twenty- 
four  hours,  just  what  its  trays  will  hold,  and  this  is  a  safe 
estimate  to  calculate  on,  when  you  are  purchasing  a 
machine. 


148  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

SUN-DRIED   FRUIT. 

This  has  been  driven  out  almost  entirely  by  the 
evaporated  fruit,  but  for  sun-drying,  it  is  pared  or  not,  as 
you  choose,  then  quartered,  usually,  and  spread  on  roofs 
or  boards,  or  on  any  convenient  substance,  covered  with 
netting  to  keep  off  insects,  removed  under  shelter  in 
case  of  rain,  and  left  in  the  sun  until  cured  ;  the  time 
depending  much  on  the  weather. 

I  have  made  some  calculation  in  regard  to  what 
might  be  the  average  cost  to  the  grower  of  a  basket  of 
peaches  grown  on  the  Peninsula,  and  delivered  at  the  rail- 
road station  or  steamboat-landing.  I  have  considered 
the  interest  on  investments  in  land,  the  trees,  the  loss  of 
time  before  bearing,  the  labor,  the  packing,  and  all  losses 
by  elements,  etc.,  with  a  complete  loss  of  crop  once  in 
seven  years,  and  I  think  the  cost  will  run  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  cents  per  basket. 


Since  writing  the  chapter  in  this  book  on  the  fer- 
tilization of  peach  orchards,  I  have  visited  the  peach 
country,  and  talked  and  consulted  with  many  of  the 
most  intelligent  growers,  have  studied  the  question 
practically,  myself,  and  as  a  result,  have  formulated  the 
following  rules  for  fertilizing  the  Peach  tree.  In  apply- 
ing these  rules,  study  every  individual  tree,  and  apply 
them  to  it,  and  next,  in  general  to  the  whole  orchard. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I49 

RULES  FOR  FERTILIZING  THE  PEACH  TREE. 
Rule  I.  Should  new  shoots,  at  the  end  of  the  grow- 
ing season,  show  a  length  of  twelve  inches  in  the  longest 
shoots,  of  eight  inches  in  the  medium  length  shoots,  and 
of  four  inches  in  the  shortest  shoots,  giving  a  general 
average  of  eight  inches  for  the  new  wood  of  the  season, 
that  tree  will  need  no  fertilizer  to  mature  the  next  crop 
of  fruit,  if  right  in  all  other  ways. 

Rule  II.  Should  the  new  shoots,  at  the  end  of  the 
growing  season,  show  a  length  of  ten  inches  in  the 
longest  shoots,  of  five  inches  in  the  medium-length 
shoots,  and  of  three  inches  in  the  short  shoots,  giving  a 
general  average  of  six  inches  for  the  new  wood  of  the 
season,  that  tree  needs  potash,  and  with  it  the  chlorine 
it  gets  from  the  kainit  or  muriate,  especially  if  the  leaves 
are  not  green  and  healthy. 

Rule  III.  Should  the  new  shoots,  at  the  end  of 
the  growing  season,  show  a  length  of  eight  inches  in 
the  longest  shoots,  of  four  inches  in  the  medium-length 
shoots,  and  of  three  inches  in  the  short  shoots,  giving  a 
general  average  of  five  inches  for  the  new  wood  of  the 
season,  that  tree  needs  potash,  phosphoric  acid  and 
ammonia,  to  mature  a  crop  of  fruit  for  the  next  season. 

Rule  IV.  Should  the  new  shoots,  at  the  end  of 
the  growing  season,  show  a  length  of  four  inches  in  the 
longest  shoots,  of  three  inches    in    the   medium-length 


150  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

shoots,  and  of  two  inches  in  the  short  shoots,  giving  a 
general  average  of  three  inches  only  for  the  growth  of 
wood  of  the  previous  season,  that  tree  needs  potash, 
phosphoric  acid  and  ammonia,  extra  culture  and 
worming,  the  middles  well  cut  out,  and  all  the  bearing 
wood  cut  back  one-half.  Also  give  the  tree  a  moderate 
dose  of  iron  by  the  methods  given  in  the  chapter  on 
fertilization.  This  may  save  it  and  give  a  crop  of  good 
fruit. 

Rule  V.  Examine  every  tree  in  your  orchard  as 
soon  after  ploughing  in  the  spring  as  possible,  and  apply 
the  rules  as  given. 

PLANS    OF   PEACH   ORCHARDS. 

As  I  have  said  in  the  previous  pages,  Peach  trees 
on  the  Peninsula  should  be  set  from  eighteen  to  twenty 
feet  apart,  but  if  I  was  planting  an  apple-orchard,  I 
would  put  the  apples  forty  feet  apart,  and  plant  a  Peach 
tree  between  each,  and  one  in  the  middle  of  every  four 
apple  trees. 

I  have  done  this  in  Kent  County,  Maryland,  and 
the  plan  has  given  satisfaction.  The  first  two  years  I 
raised  a  crop  of  corn,  and  after  that  the  peaches  paid 
until  the  apples  commenced  to  bear,  and  now,  thirteen 
years  since  planting,  both  apples  and  peaches  are  bear- 
ing good  crops,  and  both  are  doing  well.  As  to  the 
methods  of   planting  peaches,   such  as    planting    them 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I5I 

forty  to  eighty  feet  apart  each  way,  and  then  tilling  the 
field  in  grain  crops,  I  don't  recommend  any  such 
method.  Peach  trees  may  be  planted  on  head-rows,  in 
lanes,  on  lawns  and  such  places,  but  they  don't  do  well, 
because  they  cannot,  from  the  nature  of  their  surround- 
ings, get  proper  tillage. 

RANDOLPH  PETERS'  TREE  WASH. 
Take  lime,  slack  it  and  prepare,  as  for  ordinary 
white-wash,  in  an  old  barrel.  Take  sufficient  at  a  time 
to  make  a  bucket  two-thirds  full,  of  proper  consistence 
for  white-wash.  Add  to  this,  one  pint  of  gas-tar,  one 
pound  of  whale-oil  soap,  dissolved  in  hot  water  ;  or  one 
pound  of  potash,  or  one  pint  of  common  soft-soap,  or  one 
pint  of  strong  lye,  from  wood-ashes,  or  from  concentrated 
lye  ;  then  add  clay  or  loam  sufficient  to  make  a 
bucketful  of  the  wash  of  proper  consistence  to  be 
applied  with  a  white-wash  brush.  Clear  away  the 
dirt  from  the  tree  and  apply  with  a  brush,  from  the 
limbs  of  the  tree  down  to  the  roots.  It  will  destroy 
the  bark-louse  and  all  scale-insects  and  will  give 
the  trees  a  bright,  clean,  healthy  appearance.  It  will 
drive  out  all  borers,  and  moth  will  not  deposit  eggs  on 
or  about  the  tree  the  same  season  the  wash  has  been 
applied.  Rabbits  and  mice  will  not  touch  the  trees 
where  this  wash  has  been  used.  Apply  it  in  May  for 
borers,  and  for  the  general  benefit  of  the  trees,  and  late 
in  the  autumn,  as  a  preventive  against  rabbits  and 
mice.     Don't  use  gas-tar,  pure,  on  trees;  it  will  kill  them. 


152  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

The  late  Randolph  Peters  was  always  very  enthusi- 
astic in  recommending  this  wash  to  me,  and  with  an 
endorser  of  so  much  experience,  I  have  no  hesitation  in 
recommending  it  to  my  readers. 


Chapter  IX. 


In  order  to  get  the  opinions  of  growers  on  many 
points  in  the  peach  business,  I  formulated  the  following 
fifteen  questions,  and  sent  copies  to  many  of  the  most 
prominent  and  intelligent  growers  on  the  peninsula. 

The  information  I  obtained  is  interesting  and  valua- 
ble, and  I  propose  to  give  the  answers  of  each  grower, 
in  detail. 

QUESTIONS, 
(i.)     Give  the  best  list  for  profit  of  an  orchard  of  one 
thousand  peach    trees  for  the  Delaware  and  Maryland 
Peninsula  ? 

(2.)  What  is  the  best  soil  for  a  peach  orchard,  also 
the  best  situation  as  to  shelter,  hill,  valley,  etc.  .'* 

(3.)  What  is  the  average  life  of  a  Peninsula  peach 
orchard  as  generally  cared  for  ? 

(4.)  Between  what  points,  north  and  south,  does 
the  peninsula  peach-belt  now  extend  ? 

(5.)  When,  in  your  opinion,  is  the  peach  crop  most 
frequently  and  seriously  injured  ;  in  the  fall,  winter  or 
spring  ? 


154  IHE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

(6.)  How  low  a  temperature  is  fatal  to  the  bud  or 
new  wood  ? 

(7.)  After  the  budsTbegin  to  burst  into  blossoms, 
until  the  peach  is  formedfandfthe  blossoms  have  dropped, 
at  what  point  here  is  the  peach  most  frequently 
destroyed  by  low  temperature  ? 

(8.)  Do  you  ploughjyour  orchard  as  soon  as  frost 
will  permit  in  the  spring,  or  later  ?  How  deep  do  you 
plough,  and  what  is  your^method  of  cultivation  after  one 
ploughing  ? 

(9.)  What  fertilizers  do  you  use,  and  when,  and 
how,  and  in  what  quantity!do  you  apply  them  ? 

(10.)  When,  and  how,  do  you  prune  the  trees  ;  and 
do  you  ever  hand-thin  the  fruit  ?     If  so,  what  result  ? 

(11.)  Do  you  believe 'there  is  such  a  disease  as 
"  Yellows  ?"  If  so,  what  is  your  opinion  (briefly)  of  the 
cause,  and  best  treatment  ?  Do  you  worm  your  trees  ? 
If  so,  when  and  how  ? 

(12.)  Do  you  prefer  your'young  trees  grown  from 
the  seed  of  natural,  or^budded  fruit  ? 

(13.)  Has  the  Curculio  proved  a  serious  enemy  to 
the  peach  on  the  Peninsula  ? 

(14.)  Do  you  see  any  curled  leaf?  If  so,  in  what 
soil  does  it  occur  most  ? 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  155 

(15.)  Give  your  ideas  of  the  best  way  for  our 
growers  to  market  their  fruit,  and  the  best  packages,  etc., 
to  use,  (briefly.) 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED   FROM  GROWER,  NO.  I. 

Question  i.  St.  John,  Mountain  Rose,  Reeves' 
Favorite,  Moore's  Favorite,  President,  Stump  the  World, 
Crawford's  Late,  Prize,  Beer's  Smock. 

Question  2.  Medium  light  loam  soil,  as  near  level 
as  good  drainage  will  allow.  I  prefer  northern  ex- 
posure. 

Question  3.  With  fair  treatment,  fifteen  to  eigh- 
teen years. 

Question  4.     Kirkwood  and  Cape  Charles. 

Question  5.     In  the  spring. 

Question  6.  I  think  ten  below  zero  will  always  kill 
in  this  climate. 

Question  7.  Most  frequently  in  from  one  to  five 
days,  but  I  believe  they  were  killed  this  year,  (1885,)  in 
this  county  (New  Castle)  more  than  a  fortnight  after 
opening,  by  cold  rains,  which  caused  the  shedding 
blossom  to  lie  close  around  the  stem  end  of  the  peach, 
and  be  wet  (or  some  time,  caused  the  peach  to  rot. 

Question  8.  I  plough  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the 
ground  will  permit  ;  about  four  inches,  and  work  enough 
to  keep  the  ground  clean  and  mellow,  until  about  the 
last  of  June. 


156  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  9.  I  apply  about  four  hundred  pounds  of 
Kainit,  and  South  Carolina  Rock,  mixed  in  equal  quanti- 
ties, either  broadcast  by  hand,  or  with  the  drill. 

Question  10.  Prune  as  soon  after  picking  the  fruit 
as  practicable,  take  out  the  dead  wood,  and  open  the 
centre  of  the  trees,  so  as  to  give  the  fruit  plenty  of  air 
and  sun.     I  have  never  hand-thinned  the  fruit. 

Question  11.  I  have  grave  doubts  about  there 
being  any  such  disease  as  the  Yellows.  I  incline  to  the 
theory,  that  sick  trees  are  caused  by  the  lack  of  some 
necessary  ingredient  in  the  soil.  June  and  July  are  the 
months  to  worm  in. 

Question  12.     From  natural  seed  by  all  means. 

Question  13.  I  am  not  able  to  state  positively,  but 
think  they  hurt  us  badly  some  seasons. 

Question  14.  I  see  more  curled  leaf  some  seasons 
than  others,  and  incline  to  the  opinion  that  the  weather 
has  more  to  do  with  it  than  the  soil. 

Question  15.  The  best  way  to  market  the  fruit,  is 
to  sell  it  to  the  best  buyer  that  can  be  found  at  the 
nearest  station  or  landing,  and  I  believe,  that  if  growers 
all  over  the  peninsula,  would  bind  themselves  never  to 
ship  one  basket  on  their  own  account,  that  they  would 
realize,  at  least,  twenty-five  per  cent,  more  for  their 
peaches.  The  five-eighth  bushel  basket  is  certainly  the 
best  package  in  which  to  ship  the  fruit. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I57 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,   NO.   2. 

Question  i.  If  on  the  lower  peninsula,  I  would 
plant  a  large  portion  of  early  fruit ;  for  central  and 
northern  section  of  peach  district,  I  would  plant  varieties 
running  through  the  season,  with  large  proportion  of 
large  varieties,  as  Reeves',  Moore's,  Crawford's  Late, 
Prize,  etc.  If  near  a  well  established  cannery,  I  would 
plant  varieties  that  are  desirable  for  canning. 

Question  2.  My  experience  has  been,  that  a  light 
soil  is  preferable  to  heavy.  I  have  not  been  able  to 
decide  as  to  the  best  situation  as  to  shelter,  hill,  valley, 
etc. 

Question  3.  Have  seen  trees  twenty-five  years  old 
bearing  full,  and  have  seen  some  varieties  on  good  soil, 
exhausted  after  bearing  ten  years. 

Question  4.     No  answer. 

Question  5.  The  failures  in  my  orchard,  I  believe, 
have  been  caused  by  cold  weather  in  spring,  often  when 
in  bloom. 

Question  6.     No  answer. 

Question  7.     No  answer. 

Question  8.  I  had  Hale's  Early  trees  ploughed  in 
fall ;  other  varieties  in  spring — as  late  as  June. 

Question  9.  Have  tried  several  varieties  but  don't 
know  what  it  best.  Have  sought  fertilizers  with  a  good 
deal  of  Potash. 


158  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  10.  Pruned  during  winter.  Never  hand- 
thinned. 

Question  ir.  Believe  there  is  a  disease  which  is 
called  the  "  Yellows."  Have  always  removed  the  trees 
as  soon  as  the  disease  showed  on  them. 

Question  12.    No  answer. 

Question  13.     No  answer. 

Question  14.     No  answer. 

Question  15.  Sell  at  your  shipping  station  if  possi- 
ble. The  basket,  and  that  the  |,  or  standard,  I  have 
found  the  best  package. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM   GROWER,    NO.  3. 

Question  i.  Troth's  Early,  Mountain  Rose,  Craw- 
ford's Early,  Foster,  Reeves'  Favorite,  Old  Mixon, 
Moore's  Favorite,  Stump  the  World,  Crawford's  Late, 
Variegated  Free,  Fox's  Seedling,  Shipley's  Late  Red, 
Beer's  Smock,  Heath  Cling,  Salway.  There  are  many 
new  varieties  which  I  have  not  tested. 

Question  2.  A  nice  mixture  of  sand  and  clay,  not 
too  much  of  either.  There  should  be  a  dry  sub-soil. 
No  shelter  of  any  kind,  as  it  makes  them  blossom  too 
soon.  A  dry,  level,  rather  light  soil,  without  hill  or 
valley,  is  best,  but  a  rolling  piece  of  land  has  done  well 
for  me. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  1 59 

Question  3.  Twelve  or  fifteen  years  ;  but  I  have  an 
orchard  planted  in  1855,(30  years  ago,)  the  peaches  from 
which  averaged  81  cents  at  Wyoming  this  year. 

Question  4.  Between  Clayton  and  Laurel  prin- 
cipally. 

Question  5.  The  crop  is  mostl}'  injured  by  spring 
frost,  but  a  very  cold  winter  alone,  wipes  out  the  whole 
crop. 

Question  6.     Any  temperature  below  zero. 

Question  7.  Most  frequently  while  in  blossom  and 
before  the  leaves  have  formed.  The  leaves  on  are  a  pro- 
tection from  frost. 

Question  8.  I  begin  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in 
order  and  keep  the  ground  constantly  stirred  with  large 
cultivators  (3  horse)  until  the  fruit  brings  down  the 
limbs  in  the  way  of  the  teams.  Some  say  the  later  the 
orchard  is  ploughed  the  better  it  is  for  the  fruit,  i 
plough  very  shallow.  If  we  have  heavy  rains  to  pack 
the  ground,  I  use  the  plough  alone  to  stir  with. 

Question  9.  I  have  used  all  kinds  of  fertilizers  with 
out  any  results  satisfactory  to  myself.  Kainit  and  bone- 
meal  is  mostly  preferred  by  me. 

Question  10.  I  start  my  young  trees  branching  from 
the  ground.  After  that  I  take  out  the  dead  wood  only. 
I  have  clipped  off  half  the  fruit  and  found  the  thinning 
was  of  no  advantage,  very  much  to  my  surprise. 


l60  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Question  ii.  Much  to  my  sorrow,  I  do.  Various 
causes  are  given  but  the  disease  is  not  understood,  and  of 
course  the  treatment  is  altogether  empirical.  The  best 
thing  is  to  dig  them  up  as  soon  as  you  see  any  evidence 
of  the  disease.  I  worm  my  trees  in  the  fall  by  removing 
the  dirt  from  around  the  tree  and  searching  for  the  worm 
with  an  oyster-knife. 

Question  12.     From  the  natural  seed. 

Question  13.  It  has.  I  can  count  my  own 
individual  loss  in  peaches  alone,  at  $30,000,  at  least,  to 
which  may  be  added,  early  apples,  pears  and  other  fruit. 
When  the  crop  of  peaches  is  small,  the  curculio  generally 
takes  all  of  it. 

Question  14.  I  have  never  paid  any  attention  to 
the  curled  leaf. 

Question  15.  Decidedly  the  best  and  only  way  to 
market  our  fruit  is  to  bring  the  buyers  right  here  to  our 
own  doors.  They  buy  our  fruit,  and  pay  for  it,  from  the 
wagon.  We  put  it  in  the  cars  and  are  then  done  with 
it,  and  thus  avoid  all  risk  from  decay,  accident  or  falling 
market.  These  men  pay  us  as  much  here,  as  our  fruit 
sells  for  in  the  Northern  cities,  and  they  tell  us  that  they 
are  perfectly  willing  to  do  so,  as  they  get  it  fresh,  and 
save  the  trouble  and  expense  of  re-handling  it.  When- 
ever they  wish  it,  a  sworn  inspector  examines  every 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  l6l 

load  they  buy.  and  the  fruit  can  be  stored  away  in 
the  cars  at  cost,  for  them.  My  best  varieties  bore  no 
fruit  this  year,  but  notwithstanding  this,  my  orchard 
near  Dover,  averaged  80  cents  per  basket,  and  my  old 
orchard,  planted  30  years  ago,  averaged  8o|  cents.  I 
hauled  mine  to  Wyoming  this  year,  as  our  crop  around 
Dover  was  almost  a  complete  failure.  I  should  think 
that  the  Murderkill  orchards  averaged  their  owners 
more  than  one  dollar  per  basket.  Two  brothers  applied 
to  bank  yesterday,  for  money  to  aid  them  in  planting 
200  acres.     The  best  package  is  the  basket. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED    FROM   GROWER,   NO.   4. 

Question  i.  50  Alexander,  50  Troths,  50  Early 
York,  150  Reeves  Favorite,  50  Moore,  (or  Mixon,)  150 
Early  Crawford,  150  Stump  the  World,  50  Crawford's 
Late,  50  Variegated  Free,  50  Shipley's  Late  Red,  50 
Beer's  Smock,  50  Heath,  50  St.  John,  50  Susquehanna. 

Question  2.  A  poor  gravelly  soil  of  rolling  land 
will  mature  trees  sooner,  give  earlier  fruit,  color  better, 
but  dies  out  sooner. 

Question  3.     Twelve  years. 

Question  4.  From  Middletown  to  Woodside,  from 
bay  to  bay. 


l62  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  5.  When  early  frost  ripens  the  foliage,  I 
think  the  bud  or  germs  are  injured  ;  when  foliage  ripens 
and  falls  after  the  bud  is  matured,  there  is  no  danger  of 
fall  injury.  Peaches  are  seldom  killed  in  winter  or 
spring  ;    more  often  in  fall. 

Question  6.  Six  degrees  above  zero  is  a  danger 
point,  below  that,  unless  very  dry,  fatal. 

Question  7.  At  the  time  the  young  peaches  shed 
the  bloom  or  cap  formed  by  the  blossom,  it  is  very 
tender,  and  a  light  frost  may,  at  that  period,  be  fatal. 
We  have  two  "  Sheds,"  the  first,  when  the  tree  has 
formed  all  the  buds.  The  second  or  "June  shed,"  is 
when  the  stone  is  formed  and  hardening.  Then  the 
tree  casts  all  it  cannot  mature. 

Question  8.  Peach  orchards  should  be  ploughed 
very  early,  as  the  fibrous  roots  are  more  or  less  injured 
by  the  plough.  I  would  plough  8  inches  deep  in  the 
middle,  and  shoal  with  a  single  plough  up  to  the  trees. 
Then  keep  orchard  clean  with  an  orchard  cultivator. 

Question  9.  Leached  wood-ashes,  at  any  price,  are 
the  very  best  fertilizer.  A  barn  shovel-full  about  the 
crown  of  each  tree. 

Question  10.  A  good  time  as  any  is  to  prune  as 
you  pick  the  fruit.     Cut  out  everything  if  dead,  although 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  l6$ 

not  larger  than  a  knitting  needle,  In  small  orchards, 
hand-pruning  might  do,  but,  generally,  nature's  way  is 
best. 

Question  ii.  Yes  sir,  and  it  is  contagious.  Its 
appearance  on  a  small  twig,  even,  calls  for  heroic  treat- 
ment by  a  prompt  amputation.  Wood-ashes  about  the 
crown  of  the  tree  will  restore  the  tree,  if  applied 
liberally,  and  every  year. 

Question  12.  From  natural,  healthy  seed.  The 
early  decay  of  present  orchards  is  due  to  the  germ  being 
diseased. 

Question  13.  In  some  orchards,  in  some  seasons,  it 
has  ;  but  in  orchards  where  high  cultivation  has  given 
vitality  to  the  trees,  the  deposit  of  the  e^g  does  not 
seem  as  easy  of  accomplishment.  It  is  always  the  poor 
horse  that  dies  of  Botts. 

Question  14.     No  answer. 

Question  15.  Sell  at  the  nearest  railroad  station 
or  steamboat  landing.  Use  the  western  package  ;  they 
are  always  clean,  and  more  pleasing  to  the  eye  of  the 
buyer  on  a  hot  morning,  than  fruit  in  a  package  on 
which  fowls  have  been  roosting  all  winter.  I  tried  for 
years,  during  my  connection  with  the  P.,  W.  &  B.  R.  R., 
to  get  the  company  to  introduce  this  cheap  package, 
and  abandon  the  return  of  empties,  without  success.  If 
fruit   growers  would   adopt    this    package,    they   could 


164  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

demand  less  rates  of  freight,  as  the  returns  cost  more 
than  to  haul  the  fruit  to  market,  as  you  have,  doubtless, 
seen  at  New  Castle  yard  in  fruit  season,  when  James 
Wise  and  his  gang  were  assorting  fruit  packages. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED     FROM    GROWER,    NO.    5. 

Question  l.  Alexander,  Early  Rivers,  Mountain 
Rose,  Crawford's  Early,  Reeves'  Favorite,  Old  Mixon, 
Stump  the  World,  Crawford's  Late,  Steven's  Late  Rare- 
Ripe,  and  Smock  Free. 

Question  2.  Light,  sandy  soil  with  clay  sub-soil, 
without  protection  from  hill  or  valley. 

Question  3.     Twenty-five  years. 

Question  4.  From  Massey's  X  Roads  in  Kent,  Co., 
Md.,  to  Crisfield,  Md. 

Question  5.     In  my  judgment  in  the  spring. 

Question  6.     Five  degrees  below  zero. 

Question  7.  In  the  month  of  May,  about  the  time 
the  bud  opens,  if  a  heavy  frost  should  come. 

Question  8.  I  plough  in  the  month  of  March,  as 
soon  as  the  frost  will  permit.  Let  the  orchard  remain 
until  the  grass  begins  to  grow,  then  harrow  the  ground 
with  a  spike-harrow.  Plough  not  more  than  three  inches 
deep. 

Question  9.     We  use  Kainit  in  the  month  of  March, 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  165 

before  ploughing,  and  about  five  hundred  pounds  to  the 
acre  ;  spread  it  broadcast  under  the  trees. 

Question  10.  Prune  in  the  spring  with  a  hand  saw  ; 
have  never  tried  thinning  outjruit. 

Question  11.  There  is  certainly  Yellows.  I  think  is 
produced  by  planting  the  seed  from  budded  trees.  I 
very  seldom  worm  a  tree.  Gas  lime  is  a  sovereign 
remedy. 

Question  12.  By  all  means  from  natural  seed.  A 
healthy  bud  from  a  natural  seed,  will  produce  a  healthy 
tree. 

Question  13,  I  do  not  think  the  curcurlio  has  ever 
troubled  us  much  on  the  peninsula  ;  our  great  trouble 
has  been  in  nurserymen  growing  trees  from  budded 
seed,  producing  disease  and  short  life. 

Question  14.  The  curled  leaf  occurs,  generally,  on 
stiff,  heavy  land. 

Question  15.  I  find  the  best  way  to  market  my 
fruit,  is  by  rail,  and  to  ship  in  five  gallon  baskets. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED    FROM   GROV^^ER,    NO.    6. 

Question  i.  I  should  vary  the  list  in  accordance 
with  the  distance  down  the  peninsula.  For  this  neigh- 
borhood, or  about  Middletown,  I  would  plant  Mountain 
Rose,  Crawford  Early,  or  Mary's  Choice,  Old  Mixon, 
Moore's  Favorite,  Reeves'  Favorite,  Stump  the  World, 


l66  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Crawford's  Late,  (Strong,)  and  Smock.  These  would  be 
my  general  orchard.  I  might  try  a  few  of  some  of  the 
new  varieties. 

Question  2.  A  light,  sandy  soil,  not  too  sandy  or 
low,  with  red  clay  sub-soil.  An  open  exposure  we  think 
as  good  as  any.  Peaches  color  at  Bridgeville,  Sussex 
county,  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  any  station  I  know 
of.  The  land  there  is  a  light,  sandy  soil,  with  a  mixture 
of  clay  and  sand,  for  sub-soil. 

Question  3.  I  know  of  an  orchard  without  any 
extra  care  at  Bridgeville,  planted  in  i860,  and  still  bears 
some  fruit. 

Question  4.  Commences  at  Clayton  station,  Dela- 
ware Railroad,  and  runs  down  as  far  as  trees  are  planted, 
probably  as  far  south  as  Salisbury,  is  at  present  the 
Peach  Belt. 

Question  5.     Generally  in  the  spring. 

Question  6.     From  2  to  4  below  zero. 

Question  7.  About  the  time,  or  just  before,  shed- 
ding the  bloom  ;  the  young  peach  is  very  tender  at  this 
stage. 

Question  8.  In  this  neigborhood  we  used  to 
plough  twice,  early  in  spring,  and  again  the  last  of  May 
or  first  of  June,  say  three  to  four  inches.  We  ploughed 
from  the  trees  the  first  ploughing,  and  to  them  the  second, 


PEACH   AND  THE  PEAR.  167 

and  then  worked  them  with  the  harrow.     Many  persons 
only  ploughed  once  and  then  worked  with  cultivator. 

Question  9.  The  best  fertilizer  we  ever  used  was 
barn-yard  manure.  Ten  years  ago  the  trees  seemed  to 
grow  well  enough  and  produce  without  any  fertilizer. 
Kainit  is  used  by  many  with  success. 

Question  10.  We  generally  trim  in  spring  with 
saws.     Never  hand-thinned  any. 

Question  11.  I  think  there  is  such  a  thing  as 
yellows.  The  best  treatment  is  to  dig  up  the  diseased 
trees,  although  there  are  parties  here  who  claim  that 
they  cured  such  trees  by  the  use  of  Kainit.  We,  for- 
merly, wormed  trees  in  fall  and  left  a  portion  of  the 
tree  below  the  surface  of  ground  exposed  through  the 
winter.     We  have  long  since  abandoned  worming. 

Question  12.  Most  undoubtedly,  natural  seed  all 
the  time,  and  no  other. 

Question  13.  The  curculio  only  proves  a  serious 
enemy  when  peaches  are  scarce  on  the  trees. 

Question  14.  We  have  often  seen  curled  leaf  but 
only  after  a  frost.  I  do  not  think  this  is  confined  to  any 
particular  soil.  We  have  often  seen  what  we  term  Pin- 
oak  leaves,  but  this  is  confined  to  stiff,  clayey  soil. 

Question  15.  I  think,  to  ship  in  a  |  basket  is  the 
best  package  to  ship  in,  as  peaches,  as  a  rule,  will  bring 


l68  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

more  in  baskets  than  in  crates.  This  season  has  con- 
vinced me  that  the  best  mode  to  dispose  of  peaches  is 
to  bring  the  buyers  to  the  station  and  sell  them  by  the 
load,  according  to  quality,  as  was  done  at  Wyoming,  this 
season. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  7. 

Question  i.  Troth,  Mountain  Rose,  Foster,  Craw- 
ford's Early,  Reeves  Favorite,  Mixon,  Crawford's  Late, 
Smock,  Fox's  Seedling,  Salway. 

Question  2.     Fine,  sandy  soil,  with  clay  sub-soil. 

Question  3.  As  generally  treated,  10  years.  Well 
cared  for,  20  years  or  more. 

Question  4.  Lower  Kent,  north  and  western  Sussex 
and  adjoining  Maryland. 

Question  5.  Danger  any  time  below  zero,  or  in 
spring  a  much  lighter  temperature  will  destroy  ;  even  a 
heavy  frost,  when  too  early  bloom. 

Question  6.  We  have  had  good  crops  at  4  degrees 
below  zero. 

Question  7.     Just  as  petal  is  forming. 

Question  8.  As  soon  as  vegetation  starts,  2^  to  3 
inches,     Till  as  corn. 

Question  9,  Potash,  (Kainit)  400  to  600  lbs.  to  acre, 
sometimes  equal  quantities  of  Kainit  and  Rock.  In 
mid-winter  or  early  spring. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  169 

Question  10.  Early  spring  or  early  summer.  In  one 
instance  two  trees  were  trimmed  or  pruned  in  October, 
two  in  February  and  two  in  June,  trees  all  alike.  Feb- 
ruary and  June  did  best.  Two  trees  were  hand-thinned, 
others  by  their  side  not  hand-thinned.  The  hand-thinned 
did  well,  good  fruit,  others  poor  fruit  and  died  out 
badly. 

Question  11.  No  yellow  about  here.  Worm  April, 
May  and  June. 

Question  12.     Natural. 

Question  13.     No. 

Question  14.     Yes — stiff  or  clayey. 

Question  15,  Good  fruit  in  baskets,  ordinary  in 
crates. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM  GROWER,  NO.  8. 

Question  i.  Mountain  Rose,  St.  John,-  Reeves'. 
Foster,  Old  Mixon,  Stump  the  World,  Crawford's  Late, 
Geary's  Hold  On,  Smock  with  Ward's  or  Shipley's  Late. 

Question  2.  Sandy  loam  with  clay  subsoil.  Red 
clay  preferable.  Location  should  be  where  temperature 
is  as  near  equable  as  possible. 

Question  3.     From  twenty  to  twenty-five  years. 

Question  4.     From  Townsend  to  Delmar. 

Question    5.     If    the    fall    has    been    favorable   for 


I/O  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

maturing  new  wood,  it  will  stand  much  more  cold  than 
otherwise,  and  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  certainty  of 
a  crop  depends  largely  upon  the  condition  of  the  tree  at 
the  beginning  of  winter. 

Question  6.     Zero  and  below. 

Question  7.  When  the  bud  first  opens  and  the 
tender  peach-germ  protrudes. 

Question  8.  I  do  not  plough  until  the  trees  are  in 
bloom  and  then  cultivate  with  ordinary  corn-cultivator 
till  fruit  is  ripe  ;  I  plough  about  two  inches. 

Question  9.  I  always  spread  broad-cast  in  the 
spring.  I  use  potash  in  the  most  available  form,  i.  e. 
kainit  for  bearing  trees  and  four  or  five  hundred  pounds 
to  the  acre,  and  Lingo's  Fish  manure  for  young  trees, 
three  to  four  hundred  pounds  per  acre. 

Question  10.  I  prune  young  trees  in  the  spring  and 
old  trees  when  I  have  finished  gathering  the  fruit.  I 
never  hand-thin. 

Question  11.  I  don't  know  anything  about  "yel- 
lows." I  always  worm  and  when  it  is  most  convenient. 
Have  just  finished  for  the  season.     (Oct.,  1885.) 

Question  12.     From  natural  fruit. 

Question  13.     I  don't  think  so. 

Question  14.  Very  little  here,  but  where  seen 
generally,  in  a  very  heavy  soil. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I/I 

Question  15.  The  best  way  to  market  our  fruit  is 
to  encourage  the  buyers  to  come  here,  and  the  best 
package  is  the  §  splint  basket. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED    FROM  GROWER,  NO.  9. 

Question  i.  25  Early  Rivers,  25  Troths,  25  Foster, 
25  St.  John,  50  Crawford's  Early,  100  Old  Mixon,  50 
Moore's  Favorite,  100  Stump,  25  Christiana  No.  2,  25 
Crawford's  Late,  25  Shipley's  Late  Red,  25  Geary's,  25 
Wilkins'  Cling,  75  Magnum  Bonum,  100  Brown's  Choice, 
a  new  variety  that  comes  later  than  Moore's  Favorite, 
and  is  the  finest  and  best  shipper  of  the  white  fruit,  and 
among  the  most  profitable  of  any  grown  on  my  farms. 

Question  2.  A  sandy  loam,  an  open  sub-soil,  and 
should  be  15  to  30  ft.  to  water.  The  best  situation' is 
an  elevated  piece  of  ground  without  any  protection. 
Valleys  and  a  northwestern  protection  are  not  suitable. 

Question  3.  From  ten  to  fifteen  years,  all  conditions 
right  ;  with  proper  care,  will  live  from  30  to  50  years. 

Question  4.  Between  Smyrna  and  Felton,  across 
the  Peninsula. 

Question  5.     Spring. 

Question  6.     10  degrees  below  zero. 

Question  7.  When  the  blossom  first  opens  ;  the  crop 
is  more  frequently  injured  by  rain  than  frost.  At  this 
stage  a  northeaster  will  generally  ruin  the  crop. 


172  THE   CULTIVATION    0¥   THE 

Question  8.  No,  I  don't  plough  till  first  of  May;  8 
inches.  The  first  week  after  ploughing  I  cross  with  a 
harrow  and  work  once  a  week  up  until  middle  July  with 
an  A-iron  Harrow  with  nine  flooks  in  (such  as  we  use  to 
harrow  corn.; 

Question  9.  A  mixture  of  Bone,  Muriate  of  Potash, 
and  Kainit,  about  600  lbs.  to  an  acre  either  fall  orjspring. 
If  land  is  poor  and  trees  dont  make  growth  enough,  it 
would  be  well  to  apply  both  fall  and  spring.  When 
land  is  good  and  adapted  to  peaches,  it  does  not  require 
fertilizing,  as  I  have  grown  15  crops  in  16  years  on  such 
an  orchard.  The  soil  is  especially  adapted  to  peaches. 
Soil  open  and  30  feet  to  water. 

Question  10.  After  planting  young  trees,  June 
budded  I  prefer,  I  trim  to  one  bud.  2nd  year  I  trim  up 
and  cut  off  at  30  inches.  3d  and  4th  years,  if  trees  make 
a  vigorous  growth  it  is  best  to  prune  but  little.  5th 
year  I  shape  the  head,  after  this  they  want  very  little 
pruning  except  to  take  out  dead  wood  and  an  occasional 
scattering  branch,  etc.  If  trees  are  overloaded,  cultivate 
more.  About  ist  of  July  a  dressing  of  bone  at  this 
stage  would  benefit. 

Question  11.  This  is  a  disputed  question.  My 
opinion  is  that  most  of  it  comes  from  neglect  and  bad 
judgment  in  selecting  land  for  an  orchard.  On  good 
land  and  treated  as  heretofore  given,  an  orchard  will  be 
exempt  from  yellows.    Yes  ;  when  it  becomes  necessary. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I73 

Question  T2.  I  prefer  to  breed  forward  not  back- 
ward, and  cant  see  why  Peach  trees  should  be  different 
from  nature  in  any  other  form,  animal  or  veg-etable. 

Question  13.  No.  Where  proper  cultivation  and  a 
good  wash  is  used  the  Curcurlio  is  harmless. 

Question  14.     In  soil  that  is  over-limed. 

Question  15.  The  best  way  to  market  our  fruit  is  to 
mass  it  and  sell  at  public  auction.  The  §  basket  is  the 
the  best  package  for  peaches,  in  my  opinion. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED    FROM   GROWER,   NO     lO. 

Question  t.  Troths,  Mountain  Rose,  Crawford's 
Early,  Reeds  Golden  Yellow,  Moore's  Favorite^  Stump 
the  World,  Old  Mixon,  Reeves  Favorite,  Crawford's  Late 
Beer's  Smock. 

Question  2.    High,  flat  ground,  red  clay  gravelly  soil. 

Question  3.     12  years,  but  well  cared  for,  20  years. 

Question  4.  Duck  creek  or  Sassafras  River  on 
north,  and  bay  or  ocean  on  south. 

Question  5.     Spring. 

Question  6.     Eight  to  ten  below  zero. 

Question  7.     When  the  blossom  is  full. 

Question  8.  Yes,  2  to  3  inches,  work  afterward  with 
a  cultivator  three  or  four  times. 


17  ^  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Question  9.  Kainit  and  South  Carolina  Rock,  equal 
parts,  600  lbs.  per  acre  ploughed  or  drilled  in  in  the 
spring  ;  this  is  for  old  trees  in  bearing.  In  raising  an 
orchard  ashes  and  good  composted  manure. 

Question  10.  Spring  or  fall.  Saw  or  shears  ;  never 
hand-thin. 

Question  11.  Yes, cause  unknown  ;  Kainit  and  Rock. 
Dont  worm. 

Question  12.     Natural. 

Question  13.     No. 

Question  14.  It  is  more  in  the  variety  than  soil; 
principally,  Ward's  Late. 

Question  15.  Peach  Baskets.  When  I  dont  sell  at 
home  I  send  to  a  commission  merchant.  There  are 
many  ways  of  disposing  of  them,  but  good,  fine  fruit  I 
should  prefer  to  ship. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,    NO.    II. 
Question  i.     No  answer. 


Question  2 
Question  3 
Question  4, 
Question  5 
Question  6, 


Light  soil,  slightly  rolling. 
Twenty-five  to  thirty  years. 
Middle  N.  C.  County  to  Seaford. 
In  the  spring. 
About  10  degrees  below  zero. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I/S 

Question  7.     Immediately  before  full  bloom. 

Question  8.  Just  after  corn  planting  and  very  deep, 
and  follow  the  round  of  cultivation  after  each  corn 
tilling. 

Question  9.  Rock  |,  Bone  Meal  |,  300  to  400 
pounds  to  acre,  ploughed  in,  in  spring.  Hog  pen 
manure  as  a  winter  dressing  around  trees,  not  too  close 
to  body. 

Question  10.  Late  in  the  winter,  or  very  early  in 
spring,  so  that  the  cut  may  heal  speedily. 

Question  11.  There  seems  to  be,  don't  know  cause, 
best  remedy  attention  and  cultivation.  If  trees  are  kept 
clean  for  five  or  six  years,  worms  will,  perhaps,  do  little 
damage.  If  not,  worm  carefully  in  July  or  August,  by 
hand.  For  young  trees,  take  earth  away  in  July  or 
August,  and  carefully  clean  the  body  to  the  roots,  with 
cloth. 

Question  12.     Natural. 

Question  13.     Not  to  occasion  any  alarm. 

Question  14.     Yes,  mostly  on  springy  land. 

Question  15.     No  answer. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  12. 

Question  i.  Mountain  Rose,  Foster,  Reeves, 
Moore's  Favorite,  Old  Mixon,  Stump,  Crawford  Late, 
Variegated  Free,  Prize,  Smock. 


176  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  2.  Clay  loam.  Any  soil  which  will  grow 
good  crop  of  wheat,  corn  and  clover.  High  land  near 
water  is  the  most  certain  for  crops,  particularly  if  the 
expanse  of  water  is  great.  Peninsulas  often  have  crops 
when  other  localities  fail. 

Question  3.     Twelve  years. 

Question  4.  Trees  are  now  bearing,  planted  as  far 
north  as  Chesapeake  City. 

Question  5.     Spring. 

Question  6.     No  answer. 

Question  7.     Cannot  answer  intelligently. 

Question  8.  Plough  as  soon  as  land  is  in  good  con- 
dition in  the  spring,  harrow  and  cultivate  the  same  as  a 
crop  of  corn. 

Question  9.  We  are  just  beginning  the  use  of  fertil- 
izers ;  expect  to  apply  about  300  lbs.  per  acre,  and  to 
drill  it  after  orchard  has  been  ploughed  and  harrrowed. 

Question  10.  Prefer  to  trim  as  fast  as  fruit  is 
picked  ;  never  have  known  any  one  to  hand-thin  their 
fruit. 

Question  11.  Believe  trees  turn  yellow  when 
declining,  from  any  cause  ;  generally  from  worms  about 
the  roots  ;  frequently  from  soil  not  suiting  the  trees  ; 
when  from  worms,  worming  will  sometimes  do  good. 
We  used  to  worm  every  year,  and  it  is  again  becoming 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  177 

the  custom.    Remove  glue  and  diseased  bark.    Generally 
worm  in  spring. 

Question  12.  Always  try  to  get  trees  grown  from 
natural  seed.  Many  reliable  nurserymen  say  it  makes 
no  difference. 

Question  13.     It  has. 

Question  14.     Have  not. 

Question  15.  My  land  being  on  water  or  branch 
railroads,  I  think  it  best  for  grower  to  sell  fruit  at  so 
much  per  basket,  for  all  he  grows.  If  I  ship,  I  prefer  the 
usual  size  basket. 

ANSWERS   FROM   GROWER   NO.    1 3. 

Question  i.  I  am  not,  and  have  not,  lately,  been 
largely  enough  in  the  peach-culture  to  answer  the 
questions.     I  am  not  acquainted  with  the  new  varieties. 

Question  2.  The  best  soil,  in  my  opinion,  is  a  sandy 
loam,  with  yellow  clay  sub-soil.  The  best  situation,  is 
the  highest,  and  most  exposed  land  you  have. 

Question  3.  From  ten  to  fifteen  years,  according  to 
soil  and  care. 

Question  4.     Not  posted. 

Question  5.     Occasionally  in  the  winter,  mostly  in 
the  spring. 
I?. 


178  THE   CULTIVATION    OF    THE 

Question  6.     Six  to  ten  below  zero. 

Question  7.  About  the  time  the  blossoms  burst,  and 
leave  the  young  peach.  I  have  seen  them  entirely- 
destroyed  at  that  time,  and  often  very  much  injured. 

Question  8.  I  plough  as  soon  as  the  absence  of 
frost,  and  the  condition  of  the  ground  will  permit,  about 
four  inches.  Do  most  of  the  work  afterward  with  the 
harrow  and  cultivator,  unless  the  ground  runs  together 
very  solid,  then  plough  with  a  two-furrowed  plough. 

Question  9.  None.  My  trees  make  too  much  wood 
on  my  land  without  them.  I  believe  that  is  one  reason 
why  my  land  is  very  uncertain  on  peaches. 

Question  10.  I  prune  mostly  in  the  spring,  keep  all 
dead  wood  removed,  and  middle  of  trees  open.  I  never 
hand-thinned  fruit. 

Question  11.  I  do  believe  there  is  such  a  disease. 
My  opinion  is  that  it  is  caused,  or  produced,  by  our 
nurserymen,  by  breeding  in  and  in,  (as  we  say  by  stock,) 
taking  seed  from  the  orchard,  and  buds  from  the  same  ; 
that  is  budding  on  budded  fruit-seed.  Do  not  worm. 
Worms  never  haunt  our  trees. 

Question  12.     Natural. 

Question  13.     I  do  not  know  that  it  has. 

Question  14.  I  do  ;  cannot  say  in  what  soil  it  occurs 
most,  but  can  say  this,  that  I  have  never  seen  any  in  our 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I79 

locality,  except  when  caused  by  frost.  Leaves  curl  most, 
when  fruit  is  hurt  most. 

Question  15.  If  you  mean  by  the  best  way,  the  best 
way  to  handle  it,  I  would  say  of  a  crop,  ship  only  best, 
and  let  the  rest  go  to  the  ground,  if  you  are  not  fixed  to 
handle  them  some  other  way,  such  as  evaporating  or 
drying.  On  a  crop  that  will  bring  good  prices  all  the 
way  through,  then  make  three  kinds  ;  extra,  plain,  and 
culls  ;  and  if  you  can  sell  your  culls  at  home,  do  that  ; 
never  put  them  on  the  market,  if  you  can  utilize  them 
any  other  way.  The  best  package  is,  I  think,  a  nice, 
clean  basket. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,    NO.    I4. 

Question  i.  Mountain  Rose,  Crawford's  Early, 
Reeves',  Moore's  Favorite,  Stump  the  World,  Crawford's 
Late,  Shipley's  Late  Red,  Wilkins'  Cling. 

Question  2.  A  sandy  soil,  level  land,  and  no  shelter, 
is  preferable. 

Question  3.     Ten  years. 

Question  4.     From  Smyrna  to  Seaford. 

Question  5.  In  the  spring,  after  the  buds  begin  to 
open  with  cold  and  frosty  weather  ;  also  wet  weather 
will  cause  them  to  drop. 

Question  6.     Zero. 

Question  7.     No  answer. 


l80  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  8.  Plough  to  the  depth  of  3  or  4  inches, 
about  the  last  of  April,  with  the  ground  in  good  order, 
and  drag-harrow  each  way  ;  then  cultivate  two  or  three 
times  by  the  20th  of  June,  and  keep  all  grass  from  trees. 

Question  9.  Not  any  the  first  year,  after  that 
about  a  quart  of  wood-ashes  or  Kainit  sprinkled  around 
each  tree  in  the  fall  of  the  year.  Manure  is  good,  broad- 
cast, in  absence  of  the  above,  being  careful  to  not  put 
around  the  trunk  of  the  trees  for  fear  of  mice  or  worms. 

Question  11.  What  some  people  call  yellows,  is 
only  caused  by  neglect  or  unsuitable  soil.  Worm  the 
trees  in  the  fall  by  clearing  away  the  dirt,  first,  and, 
taking  a  sharp  pointed  knife,  scrape  all  the  glue  off  and 
then  can  be  seen  where  the  worm  enters  the  bark,  then 
follow  the  track  until  it  is  seen. 

Question  12.  From  natural  fruit,  and  bud  then  from 
healthy  fruiting  trees. 

Question  13.  In  some  localities,  especially  heavy 
hnproved  soil,  it  has. 

Question  14.  Curled  leaf  is  generally  seen  in  damp, 
springy  soil. 

Question  15.  No  answer.  Are  natural  trees  ever 
affected  with  yellows  ?     As  apt  to  be  as  any  other. 

ANSWERS    RECEIVED    FROM   GROWER,  NO.   1 5. 

Question  i.     Mountain    Rose,    Old    Mixon,   Stump 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  l8l 

the  World,  Fox's  Seedling,  Wilkins'  Cling,  Crawford's 
Early,  Crawford's  Late,  Smock  and  Beer's  Smock.  Do 
not  know  enough  about  new  varieties  to  give  an  opinion. 

Question  2.  A  level  field,  light,  sandy  land,  well 
improved.  In  a  low,  rich  place,  trees  go  too  much  to 
wood  and  are  apt  to  shed  their  fruit. 

Question  3.  Fifteen  to  twenty  years,  although  I 
know  an  orchard  thirty  years  old  that  was  full  this 
year. 

Question  4.     From  Clayton  to  Seaford,  best. 

Question  5.  Nine  times  out  of  ten  in  spring,  when 
in  bloom  or  after. 

Question  6.  All  depends  upon  how  the  trees  bore 
the  previous  year. 

Question  7.     Cannot  say. 

Question  8.  We  plough  as  soon  as  convenient  in 
the  spring.  We  plough  shallow  and  then  run  peach 
cultivator  through  several  times  until  August  ist,  then 
stop. 

Question  9.  Kainit  5C0  lbs.  to  acre,  broadcast,  is 
good ;  but  200  lbs.  Muriate  Potash  and  200  ground  bone 
is  better  ;  and  12  loads  barn-yard  manure,  to  acre,  every 
year,  is  best. 

Question  10.  Prune  in  spring  when  we  can  see 
dead  wood.     We  never  hand-thin  fruit. 


l82  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Question  ir.  I  believe  in  yellows.  When  we  see 
it,  we  cut  tree  down  and  burn  it. 

Question  12.     Natural  seed  is  best. 

Question  13.  Yes.  If  frost  only  leaves  a  few,  the 
curculio  sometimes  takes  them  all. 

Question  14.  I  think  curled  leaf  with  us,  in  the 
spring,  often  occurs  from  frost. 

Question  15.  The  best  way  is  for  growers  to  do  all 
in  their  power  to  induce  buyers  to  come  to  their  stations 
and  sell  to  them,  in  peach  baskets,  being  careful  only  to 
offer  good  fruit.  Poor  fruit  should  be  given  to  hogs  if 
not  able  to  dry  it.  If  western  buyers  continue  to  come 
here  a  year  or  two  longer,  Philadelphia  and  New  York 
commission  merchants  will  be  compelled  to  come  also,  or 
do  without  peaches. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.   16. 

Question  i.  100  Troth,  100  Crawford's  Early,  100 
Mixons,  TOO  Moore's,  100  Stump,  200  Crawford's  Late, 
200  Smock. 

Question  2.  A  light,  sandy  soil,  with  plenty  of 
sub-soil  drainage,  no  red  clay  or  loam  ;  slightly  rolling 
ground. 

Question  3.     In  New  Castle  County,  ten  years. 

Question  4.     Middletown  to  Salisbury. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I83 

Question  5.     Spring. 

Question  6.     Ten  below  zero. 

Question  7.     When  it  first  opens. 

Question  8.  As  soon  as  frost  will  permit,  and  the 
ground  is  dry  enough.  Plough  as  shallow  as  possible, 
throwing  the  furrow  from  trees  first,  afterwards  back ; 
after  that,  harrow. 

Question  9.  Ashes,  one  good  pan  shovel-full  close 
around  each  tree,  throwing  it  back  the  next  year,  and 
applying  another  the  same  way. 

Question  10.  Never  prune,  except  to  get  close 
enough  to  cultivate  ;  never  thin  out  wood  nor  fruit. 

Question  11.  I  know  it  to  my  sorrow;  have  no 
opinion  on  the  subject.  The  best  treatment  would  be, 
plenty  of  ashes.     Worm  some  little  in  the  spring. 

Question  12.  Know  no  difference.  My  opinion 
that  most  are  grown  from  budded  fruit.  Natural  fruit 
will  have  the  Yellows. 

Question  13.     I  think  not. 

Question  14.  When  the  late  frost  touches  the 
leaves,  they  are  seen  to  curl. 

Question  15.  To  find,  first,  the  best  market,  then 
put  them  up  in  the  most  attractive  way.  It  must  be 
varied  according  to   the    quantity  of  the   fruit   in   the 


l84  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

market.  I  think,  if  the  growers  would  generally  com- 
bine, and  make  the  purchaser  come  to  the  country  and 
buy,  it  would  be  desirable,  as  no  more  peaches  would 
go  to  the  market  than  was  wanted.  The  balance 
could  be  disposed  of  at  home,  evaporated,  etc.  I  don't 
think  there  is  anything  that  carries  the  peach  better  than 
the  basket,  nor  anything  that  shows  it  to  a  greater 
advantage. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,    NO.    I/. 

Question  i.  Early  Rivers  for  light  soil  only.  Yellow 
St.  John,  Troth's  Early,  Mountain  Rose,  Foster,  Craw- 
ford's Early,  Reeves'  Favorite  or  Mary's  Choice,  Old 
^Mixon  or  Moore's  Favorite,  Christiana,  very  good. 
Crawford's  Late,  JBrandywine,  only  for  heavy  soil. 
Stump,  Fox's  Seedling,  Shipley's,  Gearey's  Hold  On. 

Question  2.  Such  soil,  in  different  localities,  which 
has  grown  fine  fruit.  Light  soil  for  early  kinds,  and 
also  to  develop  high  color  in  all  kinds,  early  and  late. 
Would  avoid  valleys,  and  shelter  from  woods. 

Question  3.  With  the  average  grower,  not  as  long 
by  eight  years  as  it  ought  to,  too  many  neglected  while 
young,  and  too  many  abandoned  too  soon.  The  average 
ought  to  not  be  lower  than  22  years. 

Question  4.     I  think,  from  Dover  to  Delmar. 

Question    5.      Damage    from    low    temperature,    I 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  185 

think,  most  frequent  after  March  ist.  I  think,  lack  of 
cultivation  has  much  to  do  with  trees  failing  to  retain 
fruit-crops  the  following  year. 

Question  6.  Have  not  observed  closely  on  this 
point,  but  have  seen  good  fruit  crops  after  zero  weather. 

Question  7,     I  believe  when  in  full  bloom. 

Question  8.  I  plough  early,  and  four  inches  deep, 
and  cultivate  with  one  horse,  on  light  ground. 

Question  9.  Have  used  kainit  alone,  but  not  with 
as  good  results  as  from  a  phosphate,  with  moderate  per- 
centage of  potash,  and  large  percentage  of  bone.  If  I 
used  kainit  alone,  not  less  than  Soo  lbs.  per  acre,  nor 
less  than  500  lbs.  of  such  brand  of  phosphate  as  used  for 
past  five  years,  broadcast  over  entire  surface. 

Question  10.  Would  head  low  and  thin  out 
branches  thoroughly,  for  three  years  after  planting,  to 
avoid  heavy  cuts  and  to  prevent  branches  growing  in  a 
direction  to  interfere  with  close  cultivation.  Cutting  off 
branches  so  large  that  the  cut  will  not  heal  over,  I  think 
takes  years  from  the  life  of  the  tree.  I  believe  hand- 
thinning  pays. 

Question  11.  There  maybe  a  constitutional  disease 
known  as  yellows,  but  I  am  not  prepared  to  say, 
positively,  that  there  is.  So  far  as  I  have  investigated, 
the  cause  has  been  from  the  effect  of  the  black  Aphis  on 


l86  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

the  roots  ;  this  insect  does  not  always  appear  on  the  tree 
above  ground.  To  kill  worms,  have  used,  effectively,  i 
quart  gas-house  lime  around  the  base  of  the  tree. 

Question  12.  I  know  of  no  test  on  this  point. 
Some  of  the  best  orchards  I  know  of  were  grown  on 
trees  from  budded  seeds  from  canning  house.  Have 
never  seen  an  orchard  that  I  knew,  beyond  doubt,  was 
grown  from  natural  seed.  Would  make  no  difference 
between  purely  natural  seed  and  those  from  Troth's  and 
Smock. 

Question  13.  Have  seen  no  serious  damage  from 
this  cause. 

Question  14.  Have  seen  curled  leaf  where  Aphis 
has  been  at  work,  without  regard  to  soil. 

Question  15.  Have  great  hopes  the  Fruit  Exchange 
will  become  popular.  Not  prepared  to  offer  any  sugges- 
tions now. 

Question  16.  Have  seen  yellows  on  natural  trees 
without  investigating  the  cause. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.   18. 

Question  i.  The  Smocks  and  Crockets  are,  in  my 
experience,  perhaps,  because  late  peaches  are  the  first  to 
bloom,  and  therefore  more  valuable  below,  on  this  Penin- 
sula.    (See  my  last  pub.  essay.) 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  187 

Question  2.  My  greatest  success  was  on  the  soil  of 
"  old  sedge  field  "  which  failed  to  produce  half  a  crop  of 
corn  (and  of  course  wheat)  and  I  used  it  as  a  sheep  pas- 
ture, but  when  cultivated  as  a  peach  orchard,  (as  per 
above  essay)  the  result  in  corn  was  amazing,  (between 
the  trees). 

Question  3.  At  present,  without  above  cultivation 
three  or  four  years,  some  survive  30  years  and  bear. 

Question  4.     Middletown  and  Berlin. 

Question  5.  The  late  frosts  of  the  spring  impair  the 
vitality  of  the  sets,  sometimes  during  three  consecutive 
years  ;  but  our  early  frosts  may,  for  seven  years,  destroy 
the  crops.     (See  my  peach  essay.) 

Question  6.  This  may  depend  on  the  wind,  say  10 
below  zero. 

Question  7.  Rarely  after  the  blossom  drops. 

Question  8.  After  the  blossom.     (See  my  essay.) 

Question  9.  Black  Residuum.     (See  my  essay.) 

Question  10.  When  the  fruit  is  well  formed  or  half- 
grown,  the  trimming  doubles  its  size,  but  my  trees  were 
trimmed  severely  when  planted,  as  customary,  and  this 
I  deprecate. 

Question  ir.  It  is  not  a  disease  any  more  than 
Ergot  or   Smut,  but  as   Ergot  contracts  capillaries,  so 


l88  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

also  the  mycelium,  which  produces  yellows  (when 
admitted  by  some  defect)  may  contract  capillaries  with- 
out contact.     (See  my  essay.) 

Question  12.  I  should  prefer  seed  from  Carolina, 
(Native,)  or  the  best  specimens  of  budded  fruit  as  alter- 
native. 

Question  13.  It  has,  perhaps,  both  directly  and 
indirectly,  giving  access  to  mycelium,  and  predisposing 
the  tree  to  be  vulnerable  in  every  part.  (The  split 
quince  tree  illustrates  this.) 

Question  14.  The  curled  leaf  sometimes  results 
from  frost  ;  in  its  embryo  it  is  thus  destroyed. 

Question  15.  Uniform  size  and  quality  in  each 
basket,  separating  XX  from  X  and  prime  from  culls. 
In  your  opinion  is  lime  as  usually  used  in  Delaware  in 
agriculture,  useful  or  detrimental  to  the  peach  tree,  and 
your  reasons  for  your  opinion  }  I  cannot  imagine  the 
purchase  of  lime  as  a  manure,  nor  deprecate  its  presence 
in  the  culture  of  any  plant.  Lime  is  applied  to  chalk 
soils  with  apparent  good  effect,  and  I  have  seldom,  (if 
ever,)  analyzed  a  soil  which  contained  less  than  200  to 
300  bushels  per  acre,  (though  never  applied  !)  We  NOW 
prefer  to  use  manures  which  crops  remove  and  cannot 
be  available  naturally,  if  relatively  deficient. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I89 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,    NO.    I9. 

Question  i.  We  think  the  standard  are  best,  such 
as  Troth's,  Early  York,  Alexander,  (Amsden,)  (if 
weather  suits,)  Crawford's  Early  and  Late,  Reeves', 
Beer's  Smock,  and  Ward's  Late.  It  is  a  difficult 
question  to  answer,  as  every  one  has  a  different  opinion 
and  ideas.  I  have  tried  a  few  of  the  new  varieties,  but 
hold  to  old  ones. 

Question  2.  High  loam,  with  red  clay  subsoil,  a 
little  sandy  if  anything,  seems  to  produce  good  color 
as  well  as  size. 

Question  3.  From  ten  to  twenty  years,  according 
te  attention  and  soil. 

Question  4.  It  seems  to  be  from  Middletown  to 
Charles  City. 

Question  5.  It  is  generally  in  the  spring,  although 
they  have  been  killed  in  winter  when  so  extremely  cold 
as  to  freeze  the  wood  or  the  sap  that  remains  up. 

Question  6.     When  below  zero,  we  begin  to  fear. 

Question  7.  The  most  fatal  time  is  when  there 
comes  a  heavy  frost  or  a  sleet,  after  the  blossom  has 
opened,  and  a  frost  where  the  peach  is  a  fair  size,  will 
affect  it  so  as  not  to  be  perceptible  immediately,  but 
will  show  when  peach  is  further  advanced  in  the  shed- 
ding, and  rotting  on  trees  at  all  stages. 


190  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  8.  It  has  been  proven  late  ploughing  is 
better,  say  after  corn  planting.  When  the  orchard  is 
covered  with  dead  grass,  the  ground  does  not  attract 
frost  as  much  as  ploughed  or  bare  ground,  therefore,  the 
fruit  is  not  affected  by  frost  as  readily.  Shallow  plough- 
ing by  all  means,  and  cultivate  well,  after  several  times, 
until  fruit  is  too  large. 

Question  9.  Some  prefer  manure  in  spring,  and 
others  in  fall,  and  potash  in  spring.  Barn-yard  manure 
by  all  means  ;  if  not  to  be  had,  then  Potash  and  Bone. 
Spread  manure  broadcast,  as  roots  are  all  over  the 
ground.  If  Potash,  drill  it  in.  Some  have  an  idea  to 
put  manure  and  fertilizers  around  the  trunk  of  the  tree. 
If  in  bearing,  it  is  all  nonsense  ;  but  with  young  trees, 
say  I  and  2  years  old.  it  is  different  ;  use  from  200  to  400 
pounds  per  acre. 

Question  10.  As  soon  as  the  fruit  is  picked,  I  think 
is  the  best  time.  You  can  see  better  what  is  needed. 
We  try  and  leave  the  middle  open  for  the  sun  and  air, 
and  cut  all  branches  that  interfere  with  one  anotlier. 
Trim  close  and  hard.  I  would  not  like  to  risk  hand- 
thinning,  as  we  find  nature  attends  to  that  a  little  closer 
for  us,  as  there  is  no  certainty  of  them  staying  on.  If 
there  was  I  would  say,  thin. 

Question  11.  I  do.  It  is  caused  principally  by 
planting  budded  seed   instead  of  natural.     It  is  on   the 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  I9I 

same  principle  as  breeding  in  stock  for  instance.  I 
notice  potash  is  a  good  remedy,  drilled  in.  We  always 
worm  in  the  fall  if  possible,  if  they  are  not  attended  to 
in  time,  it  may  have  something  to  do  with  the  yellows. 
It  certainly  does  not  do  a  tree  any  good  to  allow  the 
tree  to  bleed  until  a  heavy  gum  has  formed  ;  if  it  remains 
it  will  breed  disease  of  some  kind. 

Question  12.     Natural  seed. 

Question  13.  I  cannot  say.  We  have  not  been 
troubled  with  it  to  our  knowledge.  Some  years  the  fruit 
is  gummy,  but  the  cause  I  cannot  say,  and  I  do  not 
think  any  one  can  give  a  correct  idea  of  it.  At  the 
same  time  we  often  find  a  worm  in  a  peach,  (the  ques- 
tion) how  did  it  get  there  ?  It  must  have  had  an  egg 
deposited  there  when  in  blossom,  or  a  very  early  stage 
of  the  peach.  A  full  grown  worm  never  crawled  there 
is  an  absolute  fact,  therefore,  the  curculio,  or  some  in- 
sect deposited  the  egg. 

Question  14.  Have  not  noticed  any,  if  there  is,  it 
is  on  low,  stiff,  or  very  poor  ground,  not  adapted  to 
peaches. 

Question  15.  We  found,  this  year,  the  first  of  the 
season,  gallon  baskets  in  crates  sold  well,  but  the 
sharpers  in  the  city  found  they  could  buy  by  the 
basket,  and  put  in  gallon  baskets  and  make  a  good  profit, 
but  it  broke  the  market  up  for  the  grower  ;  we  had   to 


192  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

ship  in  the  regular  basket  the  balance  of  the  season.  I 
think  the  best  way  is  to  cull  your  fruit  close,  and  send 
nothing  but  good  fruit  ;  buyers  will  find  out  your  stock 
is  good,  and  will  always  buy  ahead,  at  an  advance  of  the 
market,  for  they  can  rely  on  it.  A  great  many  do  not 
cull,  but  work  their  small,  imperfect  ones  in  the  middle  of 
basket,  and  then  complain  their  fruit  does  not  pay,  or 
the  commission  man  is  not  doing  what  he  ought  to, 
when  the  grower  is  in  fault.  The  great  secret  is  to 
watch  the  market  close.  At  times  one  is  much  better 
than  the  other.  Extra  fruit  pays  in  Boston  when  it 
would  not  in  New  York.  At  times  is  better  in  Phila- 
delphia. The  grower  must  be  awake  to  that.  The  man 
with  the  best  fruit  from  a  well  attended  orchard  and 
posted  in  the  market,  gets  the  prices.  Nothing  like  a 
reputation  for  growing  No.  i  fruit.  The  balance  will 
take  care  of  itself.  If  you  get  an  orchard  started  right, 
and  keep  it  right,  it  will  be  profitable,  if  you  get  the 
trees  you  ordered.  There  is  so  much  demand  for 
trees  now,  the  nurserymen  are  planting  any  and  every- 
thing to  supply  the  demand.  Do  natural  trees  ever  have 
yellows  ?     Never  heard  of  any. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  20. 

Question  i.  Troth's  Early  Red,  Mountain  Rose, 
Reed's  Golden,  Reeves'  Favorite,  Moore's,  Mixon, 
Stump,  Shipley's  Late,  Beer's  Smock. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  193 

Question  2.  Ashy  loam  surface,  with  red  or  yellow- 
clay  sub-soil  and  high  level  land. 

Question  3.  Twelve  to  fifteen  years  in  profit. 

Question  4.  Smyrna  and  Laurel. 

Question  5.  Spring. 

Question  6.  5  to  10  degrees  below  zero. 

Question  7.  When  the  blossoms  commence  to  dry 
up  and  shed. 

Question  8.  Prefer  ploughing  as  early  as  possible  ; 
plough  very  shoal,  near  the  trees,  four  to  five  inches  in 
the  middle  ;  after  ploughing,  harrow  to  fine  the  ground  ; 
then  cultivate  thoroughly  and  finish  with  harrowing,  to 
level  etc.  the  ground. 

Question  9.  Well  decomposed  stable  or  pound 
manure,  or  ground  bone  with  Muriate  of  Potash  or  Kainit 
and  Tankage.  If  the  ground  is  rich  dont  think  the 
latter  is  requisite.  Use  manure  in  the  fall,  broadcast,  if 
trees  are  well  grown.  Use  the  composition  in  spring 
and  plough  it  under. 

Question  10.  We  prune  :n  September  and  October, 
thin  out  the  trees  moderately  but  uniformly.  Never  thin 
fruit  by  hand. 

Question  11.    I  believe  there  is  such  a  disease  which 
is  called  the  yellows,  but  have  never  been  able  to  ascer- 
13 


194  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

tain  the  cause  or  remedy.  Have  tried  several  so  called 
remedies  without  satisfactory  results.  We  worm  trees 
in  September  and  October. 

Question  12.  Prefer  trees  grown  from  seed  of 
natural  fruit. 

Question  13.     I  don't  think  it  has. 

Question  14.     Some  years,  from  frost  and  curculio 

Question  15.  Cull  carefully  after  picking  and  ship 
by  rail  in  f  stave  Peach  baskets. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  21 

Question  i.  Yellow  Peaches  :  St.  John's,  Early 
Rivers,  Reeves'  Favorite,  Crawford's  Late,  Smock, 
White  Peaches  :  Mountain  Rose,  Troth's  Early,  Moore's 
Favorite,  Fox's  Seedling,  Old  Mixon,  Ward's  Late  Free, 
Shipley's  Late  Red.  These  seem  to  be  the  favorite 
varieties,  in  this  locality,  Wyoming,  the  present  peach 
centre.  The  yellow  varieties  bring  more  money  per 
basket,  but  the  white  varieties  are  so  much  more  certain 
and  prolific  bearers,  I  think  they  pay  best. 

Question  2.  A  decidedly  sandy  loam  ;  the  site  of 
the  orchard  should  be  as  nearly  level  as  practicable,  and 
should  not  be  sheltered.  On  a  hillside — slight  declivity 
northward  is  better  protected,  because  the  fruit  will  be 
later  in  flowering,  and  therefore,  less  liable  to  late  frost  • 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  I95 

Question  3.  About  seventeen  years,  We/l  cared 
for,  twenty-five  to  thirty. 

Question  4.  From  Middletown  to  Delmar.  The 
present  centre  seems  to  be  Wyoming.  Another  decade 
will  remove  it  to  Harrington. 

Question  5.  An  extraordinary  drought  extending 
into  the  late  autumn  may  cause  large  portion  of  the 
buds  to  perish,  but  there  always  seem  to  be  enough  left. 
The  most  serious  damage  is  done  in  the  late  winter  or 
early  spring  by  excessive  cold  after  very  bright,  warm 
spells  of  weather.  The  warm  weather  starting  the  buds, 
and  the  extreme  cold  and  sharp  winds  succeeding, 
causing  the  forward  buds  to  perish. 

Question  6.  Ten  degrees  below  zero  will,  usually, 
if  continued  48  hours,  kill  the  buds,  and  fifteen  to  twenty 
degrees  will  be  very  apt  to  kill  the  young  wood  in  this 
climate. 

Question  7.  A  heavy  frost  is  almost  always  fatal  to 
the  peach  after  the  bloom  is  made,  and  before  the  blossom 
has  dropped,  though  I  do  not  believe  that  low  tempera- 
ture, on  cloudy  nights,  is  fatal.  It  is  the  congealed 
moisture  or  frost  contained  and  retained  in  the  flower 
that  causes  the  young  peach  to  perish.  I  remember  that 
about  seven  years  ago,  or  six,  Dr.  Ridgely  and  I  met 
one  forenoon,  after  examining  our  orchards,  respectively, 
and  concurred  in  the  opinion  that  the  peaches  were  all 


196  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

killed.  The  blossom  had  just  done  dropping  and  the 
peacli  was  about  the  size  of  a  marrowfat  pea,  when 
there  came  a  very  heavy  frost  succeeded  by  a  bright, 
sunny  morning.  The  small  end  of  the  peach  was,  at 
about  II  o'clock,  three  shades  darker  in  color  than  the 
rest  of  the  fruit — presenting  the  appearance  of  having 
been  frozen  and  then  thawed,  but  v/e  had  fair  crops,  not- 
withstanding. 

Question  8.  I  have  always  postponed  the  ploughing 
of  my  orchard  until  the  corn  crop  was  planted,  and  har- 
rowed with  a  drag  ;  but  I  am  convinced  that  the  peach 
orchard  ought  to  be  ploughed  as  soon  as  the  ground  is 
settled  and  dry  enough  to  plow,  and  harrow  as  often  as  a 
corn  crop.  A  second  ploughing,  I  believe,  would  be  of 
advantage  to  the  orchard. 

Question  9.  I  have  only  used  kainit,  barn-yard 
manure,  bone  meal  and  lime,  alternately.  Kainit,  from 
400  lbs.  to  800  lbs.  per  acre,  broadcast  ;  barn-yard  manure, 
bone  and  lime,  the  same  as  for  wheat  and  corn  crops. 

Question  10.  I  prune  in  February  quite  severely, 
but  have  never  attempted  hand-thinning  the  fruit.  The 
curculio  generally  attends  to  that  matter. 

Question  11.  I  do  believe  there  is  such  a  disease  as 
yellows,  very  firmly,  and  I  believe  it  has  been  caused, 
sometimes,  by  setting  an  orchard  with  trees  budded  from 
trees  all  ready  affected  ;  sometimes  by  budding  on  stocks 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  igj 

grown  from  the  seed  of  peaches,  gathered  from  trees 
affected  with  that  disease,  and  sometimes  carried  by 
bees  and  by  the  wind  in  the  pollen  of  diseased  orchards, 
to  healthy  ones.  The  only  treatment  is  extermination 
of  the  diseased  trees  by  digging  up  and  carting  off  and 
burning.  I  never  have  wormed  my  trees,  but  propose, 
hereafter,  to  do  so.  But  we  think  here  that  removing  a 
portion  of  the  dirt  from  around  the  tree  in  autumn  and 
spreading  hot  lime  in  its  place,  and  then,  in  the  spring, 
replacing  the  dirt,  prevents  worms,  and  that  an  ounce  of 
prevention  is  better  than  a  pound  of  cure. 

Question  12.  I  certainly  prefer  trees  grown  from 
the  seed  of  the  natural  fruit,  and  would  prefer  buds  from 
natural  fruit  if  they  could  be  had.  I  think  every  grower 
of  peaches  should  raise  his  own  trees  in  his  own  nursery. 

Question  13.  The  curcurlio,  in  my  judgment,  is  an 
aid  to  the  grower  when  the  orchard  is  too  heavily  set  in 
fruit,  but  when  the  crop  of  young  peaches  is  light,  the 
curcurlio  will  have  its  share  and  to  that  extent  is  a  serious 
enemy  to  the  peach  in  this  region.  The  best  thing  to  be 
done  when  the  crop  is  likely  to  be  too  much  decimated, 
is  to  work  the  orchard  frequently,  and  in  doing  so  to  jar 
the  tree  by  striking  the  padded  swingle-tree  of  the 
plough  or  harrow  against  every  tree.  This  keeps  the 
insect  always  on  the  go. 

Question  14.     I  have  often  seen  the  curled  leaf.     It 


198  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Is  found  most  abundantly  on  cold,  stiff  soils  and  after 
cold,  easterly  storms.  I  have  rarely  seen  it  on  warm, 
sandy  loam  soils,  even  after  such  storms,  unless  when 
long  continued  and  very  severe. 

Question  15.  I  think  the  best  way  to  market  the 
peach  is  to  pack  them,  Extra  fine  fruit,  in  small  baskets, 
say  one  peck  baskets.  The  strictly  prime,  in  the  | 
basket  ;  and  when  the  crop  is  not  abundant,  crate  the 
residue,  except  the  culls,  and  sell  them  to  the  dryers,  or 
dry  them  yourself  When  the  crop  is  very  large  I  prefer 
to  sell  all  to  the  dryers  except  the  extras  and  strictly 
prime.  We  sell  here,  at  Wyoming,  almost  every  grade  for 
the  last  three  years  to  the  buyers,  who  come  here  from  the 
north,  east  and  west,  to  sojourn  with  us  for  the  peach 
season,  and  peaches  bring  here  20  per  cent,  more  than  at 
any  other  station  on  the  road  except  Bridgeville,  and 
some  10  per  cent,  more  than  at  Bridgeville, 

May  I  suggest  what  I  deem  an  improvement  over 
the  mode  of  setting  out  peach  orchards  usually  followed  ? 
Almost  every  person  plants  peach  trees  20  feet  apart 
each  way.  The  finest  fruit  in  flavor,  size  and  color  that 
I  have  ever  known  raised  on  any  orchard  in  this  section 
of  the  country,  grew  on  one  which  I  planted  twenty- 
seven  years  ago,  and  pulled  up  seven  years  ago.  Instead 
of  planting  the  trees  20  feet  apart  east  and  west,  I  set 
them  24  feet  apart.     By  so  doing  the  trees  never  inter- 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  199 

laced  their  branches,  and  the  south  and  southwest  winds 
which  prevailed  here  in  summer  had  full  scope  at  every 
peach  on  every  tree,  and  the  sun  could  also  shine  on 
every  peach  not  entirely  shaded  by  the  leaves.  The 
result  was  that  I  had  the  best  fruit  raised  in  this  section, 
the  highest  color,  largest  size  and  finest  flavored,  and  it 
sold  higher  than  any  other  to  the  New  York  buyers.  In 
1865,  Messrs.  Wanson  &  Feree  of  that  city,  paid  me 
$1.05  per  basket  for  all  my  fruit,  which  was  10  cents 
higher  than  they  paid  any  other  person.  I  sold  them 
3,960  baskets  and  they  told  me  at  the  close  of  the  season 
that  they  had  made  $1200  on  my  crop.  The  fruit 
averaged  them  $1.60  per  basket  in  the  N.  Y.  market. 
After  the  bargain  for  the  orchard  had  been  made  I  felt 
that  the  price  might  be  an  unreasonable  one  and  told 
Mr.  Feree,  who  was  here,  to  keep  an  accurate  account  of 
all  shipments  of  my  fruit.  I  would  divide  the  loss  with 
them.     He  said  he  had  done  so  with  the  above  result. 

One  further  suggestion  I  must  inflict  upon  you. 
Hon.  Jacob  Blair,  ex-M.  C.  from  West  Virginia,  told  me 
some  years  ago,  that  a  friend  of  his  over  in  Ohio  had  not 
failed  to  raise  a  good  crop  of  peaches  in  thirty  years, 
and  that  his  fruit  commanded  an  extra  price  in  the 
Pittsburg  and  other  markets.  I  wrote  to  that  gentle- 
man, and  he  attributed  his  unvaried  success  to  raising  a 
mound  a  foot  high  around  each  tree  at  one  year  old, 
increasing  it  each  year,  till  it  became  three  feet  high. 


200  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Result  no  worm,  no  yellows,  no  disease,  long  lived  tree, 
and  a  sure  crop  every  year  of  the  very  finest  fruit.  The 
mound  freezing  solid,  kept  the  blooming  back,  he  said, 
a  week  or  more,  until  the  late  frosts  were  past.  I  pro- 
pose to  try  this  on  a  few  trees  of  each  variety  this 
season. 

A  LETTER  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  22. 
I  have  not  your  circular  at  hand.  I  think  the 
yellows  are  the  result  of  neglect  and  starvation,  and 
sometimes  largely  attributed  to  the  borer.  I  know  that 
yellows  can  be  cured  by  applying  to  the  soil  the  essential 
normal  elements  of  the  constituents  of  the  peach — bark, 
pith,  leaf  and  general  fibre — which  are  readily  determined 
by  careful  analysis.  Starvation  is  the  principal  and 
chief  cause  of  yellows.  In  my  opinion,  I  consider  it  as 
essential  to  restore,  annually,  to  the  soil,  the  ingredients 
of  the  peach,  as  it  is  to  do  so  for  wheat  or  corn.  I  think 
kainit  very  beneficial,  as  well  as  many  other  things.  I 
think  if  you  propose  writing  an  article  on  the  peach,  you 
should  urge  the  imperative  necessity  of  organization — 
systematic  organization  for  the  intelligent  distribution 
of  our  fruit.  The  millions  of  trees  now  being  planted 
will  certainly  create  a  great  glut  and  consequent  distress, 
unless  a  central  office  shall  daily  receive  telegraphic 
reports  from  every  station,  of  the  quantity  and  destina- 
tion of  each  car,  and  on  finding  more  cars  are 
consigned  to  any  one  city  than  said  city  can  readily 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  201 

consume,  at  paying  prices,  the  President  of  the  Associa- 
tion, shall  have  authority  to  distribute  the  said  cars, 
judiciously,  among  the  many  hundred  towns  to  whic^ 
the  Pennsylvania  Rail  Road  will  deliver  them.  Thus, 
gluts  can  be  avoided,  and  an  intelligent  supervision  be 
established  and  consequent  remunerative  rates  be  main- 
tained. The  Association  should  select,  in  every  town, 
the  most  reliable  firm,  early  in  the  season,  and,  if  possible, 
obtain  security  in  some  shape,  or  a  guarantee  of  their 
payments  and  general  fair  dealing.  Some  such  organiza- 
tion will  soon  become  imperative. 

SHIPPING   PEACHES   TO   EUROPE. 

That  peaches  may  be  shipped  to  Europe,  and  the 
experiment  prove  profitable,  Mr.  G.  A.  Cochran,  of 
Middletown,  has  shown.  He  shipped  tomatoes  success- 
fully last  year,  but  did  not  try  peaches  until  this  season. 
He  packed  them  in  the  individual  ripe-fruit  case,  each 
peach  packed  by  itself,  thoroughly  ventilated  during  the 
transit,  and  shipped  them  by  the  fast  steamers  of  the 
Cunard  line,  as  the  Oregon,  the  Umbria,  and  the  Etruria, 
either  steamer  making  an  average  passage  to  Liverpool 
of  under  eight  days.  Mr.  Cochran  picked  peaches  at 
Clayton,  August  20th,  shipped  them  by  ordinary  freight 
to  New  York,  and  put  them  on  the  steamer  of  August 
22d.  They  were  landed  in  Liverpool  on  the  night  of 
August  30th,  and  were  sold  the  next  day,  eleven  days 
after   picking   at   Clayton.      They   were   in   fine   order. 


202  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

selling  readily  at  $9  per  case,  and  cost  him  for  fruit, 
freights  and  commissions,  about  $4.80  per  case.  There 
were  288  peaches  in  each  case,  each  packed  by  itself. 
It  will  be  seen  the  peaches  cost  him  if  cents  each,  and 
he  sold  them  at  wholesale  for  3^  cents  each. 


THK    PKAR. 


Chapter  X. 


Thk   Pkar 


INTRODUCTION, 

Where  ever  the  two  fruits  have  been  grown,  the  pear 
has  probably,  heretofore,  been  looked  upon  as  a  luxury,  on 
account  of  its  very  delicate  flavor  and  lusciousness,  and 
its  scarcity,  and  the  apple  as  a  necessity,  from  its 
unrivalled  excellence  as  an  article  of  fruit-diet,  and  its 
abundance.  The  great  increase  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
pear  is  bringing  it  before  the  masses  of  the  people  much 
more  prominently  than  formerly  as  an  article  of  food,  and 
it  is  now  becoming  every  year  a  most  formidable  rival  of 
the  apple  ;  although  I  dont  think  it  can  by  any  means  reach 
the  popularity  of  that  fruit  as  a  general  fruit  for  house- 
hold use.  The  pear  belongs  to  the  rose  family  and 
resembles  the  apple.  In  its  wild  state  it  is  one  of  the 
most  repulsive  mouthfuls  that  can  be  conceived  of,  as 
any  one  can  verify  by  eating  one  of  our  common  choke- 
pears,  and  even  this  is  luscious  in  comparison  with  the 
wild  pear.    So  when  we  afterward  revel  in  all  the  concen- 


206  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

trated  sweets  of  a  well  ripened  Beurr6  d'  Anjou  we  can 
readily  see  what  cultivation  has  done  for  the  fruit  we  are 
discussing.  Pears  are  frequently  mentioned  in  the 
writings  of  the  Ancient  Greeks,  Romans,  Syrians  and 
Egyptians, and  came  from  the  east  through  Italy.and  were 
from  here  scattered  over  Western  Europe, and  from  thence 
to  the  Western  Hemisphere.  The  Pears  used  by  these 
early  people  were,  from  all  accounts,  not  of  the  exquisite 
flavor  of  our  modern  varieties,  and  the  flavor  did  not 
improve  greatly  until  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  and  it  is  only  during  the  last  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  years  that  we  have  added  such  luxuries  as 
the  Bartlett,  the  Seckel  and  the  Beurre  d'  Anjou.  The 
finding  of  the  Seckel  in  this  country  as  an  accidental 
variety  shows  that  we  have  all  the  requisites  here  for  the 
pear  to  thrive  and  develope  its  most  exquisite  qualities 
The  Pear  Tree,  as  a  standard,  lives  to  a  great  age,  reaches 
often,  a  very  large  size  ;  commences  to  bear  at  a  com- 
paratively early  age  and  yields  a  great  abundance  of 
fruit.  There  is  a  fermented  drink  made  from  pears  called 
Perry  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Cider  made  from  apples, 
but  in  the  local  option  counties  of  the  Eastern  Shore  it 
is  called  "Pear  Cider  "and  in  many  cases  proves  itself 
a  very  entangling  alliance. 

The  Pear  tree  starting  from  the  seed  is  developed 
as  follows  :  We  plant  the  seed,  heat,  moisture,  and  air, 
cause  germination,  and,  if  we  bury  it  too  deep,  so  as  to 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  20/ 

exclude  it  from  air,  it  wont  germinate,  and,  like  many 
other  seeds  planted  too  deep,  the  crop  fails  to  come. 
The  seed  germinating,  cell-growth  commences  with  this 
germination,  and  by  this  proliferation  of  cells  the  tree  in 
all  its  parts  is  formed.  A  limb  several  inches  in  diameter 
cut  across  will  reveal  millions  of  cells,  so  numerous  are 
they,  and  each  cell  in  itself  is  a  perfect  organization,  and 
thus  it  is  easy  to  see,  if  the  cells  become  diseased  or  are 
preyed  upon  by  any  parasite  or  other  enemy,  how  at 
once  the  whole  tree  must  suffer.  The  importance  of 
this  cell-explanation  will  be  seen  when  we  come  to  talk 
of  the  diseases  and  enemies  of  the  pear.  The  roots  we 
all  know  by  sight  ;  there  is  the  main  root  called  the  tap- 
root, and  it  runs  downwards  into  the  ground ;  scan 
this  root  well,  as  it  measures  the  depth  of  the  hole  we 
will  dig  when  we  come  to  plant  the  tree.  This  tap-root 
throws  off  laterals  and  the  laterals  throw  off  fibres 
called  fibrous  roots  or  rootlets,  and,  in  turn,  these  throw 
off  hair-like  roots  or  root-hairs,  and  thus  the  root  is 
made  up.  The  roots  absorb  moisture  from  the  soil,  and 
the  more  minute  roots  are  always  the  most  active  in  this 
work.  Now  where  the  root  joins  the  body  of  the  tree 
we  call  the  collar,  and  we  can  change  the  situation  of 
the  collar  by  banking  up  the  earth  around  the  tree  ;  then 
that  part  of  the  body  covered  by  earth  will  throw  out 
rootlets  and  the  collar  will  move  upwards.  Now  we 
have  the    body  of  the  tree  ;    then  come  the  bark,  the 


208  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

branches,  and  the  leaves.  The  bark  is  for  the  convey- 
ance of  the  sap,  or  blood  of  the  tree,  up  in  the  spring 
and  down  in  the  fall.  The  .«iap  descends  from  the  leaves 
through  the  inner  bark  and  deposits  its  layers  of  wood 
and  bark  annually.  The  body-wood  is  composed  of  the 
sap-wood  and  the  old  wood  ;  and  the  branches  are  the 
main  or  leading  branches  ;  then  descending  in  size  to 
the  shoots  or  growing  part  of  the  limbs  ;  and  last,  the 
fruit-spurs.  Now  again  there  are  the  buds  of  the  leaves 
and  the  buds  of  the  blossoms  or  fruit-buds.  The  leaf- 
buds  grow  into  branches  of  the  tree.  On  the  pear  the 
leaf-buds  grow  on  the  new  wood  of  the  year,  and  the 
fruit-buds  come  on  the  wood  of  the  last  year,  and 
grow  on  the  end  of  spurs  called  fruit-spurs,  growing  out 
from  this  last  year's  wood.  Now,  all  this  is  important  as 
will  be  seen  when  we  come  to  speak  of  fertilizing  Pear 
trees.  In  young  trees  growing  rapidly,  all  buds  are  leaf- 
buds  ;  as  they  grow  old,  growth  is  slower,  and  many  leaf- 
buds  become  fruit-buds  ;  and  hence,  the  tree  becomes 
fruitful,  and  so,  by  encouraging  growth  in  Pear  trees,  in 
fact,  in  most  fruit  trees,  we  discourage  fruiting,  and  by 
checking  growth  of  wood  we  encourage  fruiting ;  but  if 
this  be  done  too  much,  the  tree  and  its  product  both  will 
suffer  in  the  end.  Now  this  does  not  hold  true  as  to  vigor- 
ous growing  Pear  trees  coming  into  bearitig  late,  for  some 
of  the  most  vigorous  growers,  as  the  Bartlett,  Le  Conte 
and    Kiefifer,  come  into  bearing  very  early,  and   some 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  2O9 

of  the  slow  growers,  as  Beurre  Bosc,  come  in  late. 
The  leaves  are  made  up  of  the  veins,  the  ribs,  and  the 
leaf-stalk  ;  thus  giving  the  frame  work  and  vessels  for 
the  flowing  of  the  sap.  and  the  leaf  is  completed.  Then 
we  have  the  green  pulp  which  fills  the  intervals  of  the 
frame  work,  and  the  whole  covered  by  skin.  These 
leaves  are  made  up  of  cells  crowded  together  on  the 
upper  side  of  the  leaf,  and  on  the  lower  side  not  so 
closely  crowded.  Hence  the  leaf  is  of  a  darker  green  on 
the  upper  side  than  on  the  lower  side.  On  the  lower 
side  are  mostly  situated  the  pores  for  breathing,  and  in 
the  pear,  number  thirty  thousand  to  the  square  inch. 
The  pear  is  exogenous  ;  that  is,  grows  by  additions  to  the 
outside  of  the  wood  ;  and  the  process  of  growing  of 
such  trees  is  as  follows,  as  described  by  physiological 
botanists,  and  for  the  main  parts  of  which  description,  as 
for  the  foregoing,  I  am  indebted  to  the  admirable  work 
of  Thomas,  on  Fruit  Culture.  The  roots  absorb  water, 
which,  in  them,  changes  slightly  by  matter  from  the 
root  cells  being  added,  and  is  then  sap.  The  sap  passes 
from  cell  to  cell,  up  through  the  sap-wood  until  it  reaches 
the  leaves.  Now  the  sap  having  reached  the  leaf 
emerges  from  the  dark  cells  through  which  it  has  been 
traveling  and  is  spread  out  to  sun-light.  Now  it  is 
largely  evaporated  through  the  breathing  pores  of  the 
leaf  we  just  now  spoke  of,  and  it  is  thickened.  The 
carbonic  acid  of  the  air,  and  that  previously  contained 
14 


2IO  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

in  the  sap.  unites  with  the  oxygen  and  hydrogen  of  the 
sap,  and  produces  wood  fibre,  which  is  a  triple  compound 
of  oxygen,  hydrogen,  and  carbon,  the  oxygen  of  the 
carbonic  acid  escaping.  Here  the  tree  in  breathing  then 
gives  out  oxygen,  while  an  animal  in  breathing,  or  any 
fire  burning,  gives  out  carbonic  acid,  and  thus  has  God 
established  the  equilibrium  in  nature  —  and  thus  it  is 
that  what  is  poison  to  man  is  food  to  plants. 

Now  leaves  require  sunlight  to  decompose  carbonic 
acid,  and  it  does  not  go  on  in  the  dark,  and,  hence, 
flowers  in  bed-rooms,  at  night,  are  not  feeding  on  the 
carbon  exhaled  by  sleepers — and  doing  the  good  many 
suppose  them  to  do — but  in  day  time  they  are  in  the  sun- 
light actively  decomposing  carbonic  acid  gas  and  giving 
out  oxygen,  and,  hence,  may  be  tolerated  as  healthful, 
so  far  as  this  process  is  concerned,  but  I  discourage, 
altogether,  the  keeping  of  growing  plants  in  any  part  of 
dwelling  houses,  as  the  earth  about  them  and  the  decay- 
ing parts  of  the  plant  being  necessarily  attended  by 
fermentation,  disease-germs  may  be  developed  with 
serious  consequences.  The  sap  having  now  been  thick- 
ened by  evaporation  in  the  leaf,  comes  down  through  the 
inner  bark  and  forms  a  layer  of  semi-liquid  matter 
between  the  bark  and  the  wood  ;  this  is  called  cambium 
and  is  now  divided  up,  the  great  part  goes  to  make  a 
new  layer  of  wood,  and  a  small  part  goes  to  make  a  new 
layer  of  bark.     In  budding  and  grafting  this  cambium  is 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  211 

one  of  the  chief  essentials  in  a  take.  This  rapid  evapo- 
ration through  the  leaves,  gives  us  some  valuable  hints 
in  transplanting  pear  or  any  other  trees — always  strip  a 
tree  of  leaves  before  transplanting  it — if  you  don't,  the 
evaporation  will  be  so  rapid  through  the  leaves  that  the 
tree  will  wither  and  die,  but  strip  off  the  leaves  and  then 
transplant,  and  the  tree  sap  wiil  stay  there  and  supply 
the  tree  until  it  has  become  accustomed  to  its  new  con- 
dition. So  in  moving  a  tree  whilst  in  the  growing 
season,  and  some  of  the  roots  are  sacrificed  in  getting  it 
up,  you  must  also  cut  off  some  of  the  top,  as  too  many 
leaves  would  cause  too  rapid  evaporation  for  those  roots 
that  remain. 

The  uses  of  the  leaves  of  the  tree  being  so  neces- 
sary, it  may  well  be  seen  what  an  injury  the  slug  may 
prove  to  the  Pear  tree,  especially  when  it  often  destroys 
a  greater  portion  of  its  leaves. 

The  bark  performs  a  duty  for  the  tree  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  the  leaf,  and  with  its  adjoining  cells 
preserves  the  identity  of  the  class,  as  pear,  apple,  peach, 
etc. 

Here  is  a  beautiful  evidence  of  nature  in  preserving 
her  identity, — bud  the  pear  on  the  quince — all  the  leaves 
will  grow  on  the  pear  top — yet  all  the  nourishment  these 
leaves  make  and  send  down  the  tree  will  make  quince 
wood  and  bark  on  the  quince,  and  pear  wood  and  bark 
on  the  pear. 


212  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

THE  PEAR  BUDS 

are  large  and  at  the  proper  time  expand  into  the  flowers 
or  blossoms. — and  these  blossoms  are  very  beautiful, 
being  pure  white  with  purple  anthers.  These  blossoms 
form  into  the  fruit  and  the  fruit  contains  the  seeds  and 
the  seeds  continue  the  propagation  of  the  species. 

The  flower  is  composed  of  the  outside  calyx — and 
the  corolla  or  blossom  leaves  within  the  calyx.  Now 
the  necessary  parts  of  the  blossoms  are  the  stamens  and 
pistils.  In  the  pear  the  anthers  or  head  of  the  stamens 
are  purple.  In  these  anthers  are  the  pollen,  and  it  is  dis- 
charged by  the  bursting  of  the  anther,  and  this  pollen  is 
the  fertilizing  material  essential  to  the  reproduction  of 
the  species.  The  thread-like  stalk  of  a  stamen  is  called 
a  filiment.  The  pistil  consists  of  a  stigma  at  the  top, 
then  below  it  the  style  to  support  the  stigma  and  the 
ovary  or  future  seed-vessel  of  the  fruit.  Now  the  pollen 
from  the  stamens  falls  on  the  stigma  and  the  ovules  are 
fertilized  and  become  the  seeds  of  the  fruit,  and  the  fruit 
itself,  as  we  understand  it,  is  merely  for  the  growth  and 
protection  of  the  seed,  the  true  embryo  tree.  All  this 
talk  will  be  of  avail  when  we  come  to  speak  of  hybrid 
pears,  as  the  Kieffer. 

Now  just  here  let  me  speak  of  one  thing  in  fruit- 
growing we  hear  often  of,  and  ignorance,  of  which  has 
and  will,  cost  much  loss,  viz.;   the   so  called  pistillate  or 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  213 

imperfect  blossom  and  the  bisexual  or  perfect  blossom. 
Take  the  Crescent  strawberry  for  example,  one  of  our 
most  productive  sorts  ;  it  has  a  pistillate  or  imperfect 
blossom,  and  hence  can't  fertilize  itself,  and  so  to  ensure 
a  crop  of  Crescents  we  must  plant  to  every  two  rows  of 
them,  one  row  of  a  variety,  (as  the  Sharpless,)  having  a 
bisexual  or  perfect  blossom.  The  pollen  from  the  anther 
of  the  Sharpless  fertilizes  the  ovule  in  the  ovary  of  the 
Crescent  and  thus  the  perfect  Crescent  berry  is  produced. 
Take  a  blossom  of  the  Crescent  and  one  of  the  Sharpless, 
and  note  the  difference  ;  the  pistils  are  there  generally  on 
the  Crescent  blossom,  and  on  the  Sharpless  blossom  you 
see  the  stamens  and  the  anthers  on  the  top  of  them, 
making  them,  with  the  pistils  and  other  parts,  the  perfect 
or  bisexual  blossoms. 

The  varieties  of  the  Pear  number  into  the  thousands, 
and,  probably,  over  one  thousand  have  been  fruited  in 
the  United  States.  We  divide  Pear  trees  into  the 
standard  or  single  trees — the  dwarf  or  compound  trees, 
and  hybrid  trees — and  the  fruit  is  spoken  of,  or  rather 
should  be  spoken  of,  as  fruit  from  standard.? — fruit  from 
dwarfs,  and  fruit  from  hybrids.  The  standard  is  the 
original  Pear  tree.  The  dwarf  is  one  where  the  pear- 
stalk  has  been  grafted  or  budded  on  the  quince  root,  and 
thus  the  tree  is,  in  a  measure,  dwarfed.  It  may  also  be 
grafted  or  budded  on  the  thorn  and  some  other  roots 
with  the  same  result.     The  hybrid  tree  is  one  where  the 


214  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

blossom  of  one  tree  has  been  fertilized  by  the  blossom 
of  another  tree,  and  the  blossom  of  the  producing  tree, 
maturing  a  pear  which  shall  contain  a  seed,  and  which 
seed,  planted,  shall  produce  a  pear  like  neither  of  the 
trees  which  took  part  in  its  creation.  In  fact,  the 
product  will  be  a  hybrid,  a  mule  among  pears. 

The  Kieffer  is  a  good  example  of  a  hybrid  pear, 
and  is  supposed  to  be  a  cross  between  the  Chinese  Sand 
Pear,  and  a  Bartlett  grown  near  it  in  the  garden  of 
Peter  Kieffer,  of  Philadelphia,  where  the  original  Kieffer 
tree  is  still  standing,  and  is  now  eighteen  years  old. 
The  best  specimen  of  a  Chinese  Sand  Pear  tree  that  I 
know  of,  is  in  the  grounds  of  Thomas  Holcomb,  Esquire, 
the  efificient  Recorder  of  Deeds  of  New  Castle  County, 
Delaware,  and  can  be  seen  in  the  lawn  surrounding  his 
residence  in  the  city  of  New  Castle.  The  pear  is  among 
the  oldest  of  our  fruit  trees  on  the  Peninsula,  and 
specimen  trees  are  now  standing,  over  a  century  old, 
and  trees  were,  undoubtedly,  planted  soon  after  their 
arrival,  by  the  French  Huguenots,  who  came  over  and 
settled  here  after  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes 
in  1685.  Now,  as  to  how  long  pear  growing  for  profit 
in  field  culture  has  been  conducted  on  the  Peninsula, 
two  decades,  or  at  most  three  decades,  of  the  past,  will, 
I  have  no  doubt,  cover  the  time,  and  how  successful  it 
has  been  or  with  what  discouragements  it  has  been 
attended,  will  be  shown,  in  part,  by  the  answers  to  the 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  21 5 

questions  which  I  sent  to  most  of  the  intelligent  pear- 
growers  of  the  Peninsula,  and  which  will  be  found  in 
their  appropriate  place  in  this  book.  As  to  my  own 
opinion,  gained  from  personal  experience,  and  from 
observation  and  intercourse  with  pear- growers,  it  is.  that 
pear  growing  is  profitable,  and  a  grand  industry  for  the 
Peninsula  farmer — if— (and  that  if  must  be  spelled  with 
a  great  big 


i) 


he  be  alive  to  every  detail  and  to  every  surrounding  of 
the  business.  In  this  it  differs  from  no  other  kind  of 
farming,  or  from  no  other  kind  of  business,  for  I  think 
the  great  source  of  the  want  of  success  of  men  in  all 
manner  of  business,  is  this  lack  of  attention  to  detail  ;  for 
detail  comprises  everything  necessary  to  make  the  suc- 
cessful business  man  ;  labor,  energy,  thrift,  experience, 
quick  perception,  and  to  these  traits  might  be  added, 
the  obeying  of  the  laws  of  God  and  man. 

There  is  no  royal  road  to  success  in  pear-culture.  It 
is  a  fruit,  of  all  other  fruits,  that  demands  a  grower's 
every  attention  and  his  most  guarded  care  and  watching. 
It  is  so  subject  to  disease  and  injury  from  pests  of  the 
insect  order,  that  for  some  parts  of  the  year  it  requires 
attention  even  in  the  dark  hours  of  the  night,  and  the 
man  who  is  not  alive  to  all  this  need  have  no  high  hope 
of  succeeding  in  its  successful  cultivation.  I  have  seen 
some  statistics  which  prove  that  of  all  the  Pear  Trees 


216  THE   CULTIVAVION    OF   THE 

planted  in  one  of  the  New  England  States,  at  the  end 
of  ten  years  from  such  planting,  not  over  ten  per  cent, 
of  the  trees  were  healthy  and  alive.  The  mortality  on 
the  Peninsula  has  not  been  so  great  as  that,  perhaps,  but 
it  certainly  reaches  nearer  that  loss  than  most  persons 
at  first  thought  would  imagine. 

When  one  wishes  to  plant  pears  he  should  watch 
every  detail,  as  near  as  possible,  from  the  seed  to  the 
tree  in  the  orchard,  for  the  most  vital  mistakes  are  made 
in  getting  poor  trees,  and  in  getting  the  wrong  varie- 
ties, and  then  in  selecting  the  wrong  soil  and  exposure, 
and  in  the  wrong  culture  and  fertilizing,  or  lack  of  proper 
culture  and  fertilizing. 

Be  watchful,  be  vigilant,  be  industrious,  and  adopt 
the  experience  gained  from  experienced  growers,  con- 
stantly endeavoring  to  improve  on  the  best  methods, 
and  with  every  attention  to  detail,  as  any  other  good 
business  man  is  attentive  to  the  carrying  on  of  his 
business,  you  will  make  pear-growing,  at  once,  suc- 
cessful, profitable  and  delightfully  entertaining. 


Chapter  XI. 


PROPAGATION  OF  THE  PEAR. 
In  propagating  the  Pear  it  is  necessary  to  have  very 
rich  land,  especially  here  where  our  summers  are  hot, 
and  if  not  very  rich,  the  site  for  the  seedling  bed  should 
be  made  so  by  wood  ashes,  and  artificial  fertilizers,  con- 
taining all  the  elements  of  plant-food,  as  potash,  phos- 
phoric acid,  ammonia,  etc.  I  would  not  use  raw  manure, 
but  only  manure,  if  at  all,  that  had  been  composted  for 
a  long  time.  These  green  manures  breed  bacteria,  and 
I  am  satisfied  would  start  unhealthy  trees.  Now  the 
most  important  thing  coming  next,  is  the  seed,  to  have 
them  pure,  in  order  to  start  healthy  trees.  Here,  I 
believe,  is  the  great,  first  cause  of  diseased  pear  trees 
now  so  common,  the  use  of  seed  from  all  sorts  of  pears, 
natural,  dieased,  budded,  grafted,  and  any  other  kind 
that  may  turn  up,  either  here,  in  America,  or  in  Europe. 
Indeed  the  very  same  causes  that  produce  diseased 
Peach  trees  are  producing  diseased  Pear  trees.  I  think 
most  of  our  pear  seedlings  now  used  in  this  country  are 
imported  from  France,  and  are  from  one  to  three  years 
old  when  received. 


2l8  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

The  seed  should  be  from  healthy  common  Choke,  or 
Hedge  pears  if  possible,  and  certainly  the  least  relation 
the  seeds  bear  to  our  finer  pears  the  better.  They 
should  be  planted  in  the  fall,  very  soon  after  they  have 
been  taken  from  the  fruit.  Plant  them  in  broad  drills 
and  keep  them  well  tilled  and  attended  to,  until  they 
are  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  then 
take  them  up  in  the  spring  or  fall  and  transplant  them 
to  nursery  rows,  twelve  inches  apart,  and  four  feet 
between  the  rows.  These  may  be  budded  or  grafted  in 
a  year.  The  great  enemy  to  pear  seedlings  is  leaf- 
blight.  It  comes  on  in  mid-summer,  the  leaves  turn 
brown  and  drop  off.  The  cause  is,  probably,  the  aphis 
and  other  insects,  and  raw  manures.  The  remedy  is  to 
pull  out  diseased  trees,  avoid  raw  manures,  and  not  to 
force  the  tree  too  much,  and  cultivate  attentively,  and 
Paris  Green  or  Hellebore  the  leaves  in  the  season.  The 
seedlings  which  come  from  France  and  other  parts  of 
Europe,  reach  here  in  the  fall ;  are  then  kept  in  moist 
sand  or  saw-dust  in  a  cellar,  or  room  protected  from 
frost,  are  then  planted  the  following  spring  in  nursery 
row,  and  budded  in  the  following  July  and  August.  If 
the  seedlings  are  large  and  it  is  intended  to  graft 
them,  they  may  be  kept  as  before  stated,  and  grafted  in 
the  winter  at  your  leisure,  and  returned  to  the  damp 
sand  or  saw-dust,  and  then  set  out  the  coming  spring  in 
nursery-row,    planting    the    graft    in    the    ground    and 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  2  [9 

covering  all  up  to  the  first  fruit-bud  of  the  new  pear- 
stock  to  which  the  root  of  the  seedling  had  been  grafted. 
The  pear  may  be  budded  on  the  thorn,  the  mountain 
ash,  or  the  apple,  but  the  practice  is  not  to  be  recom- 
mended. Dwarf  trees  are  propagated  by  budding  the 
pear  stock  to  the  root  of  the  Angers  Quince  ;  thus  to 
some  extent  dwarfing  the  pear.  The  pear  is  deficient  in 
fibrous  roots  and  should  never  be  transplanted  of  large 
size  ;  and  one  year  old  trees  are  much  more  likely  to  live 
than  larger,  finer  looking  trees.  Pears  are,  I  think, 
more  surely  propagated  by  budding  than  by  grafting 
for  nursery  stock,  and  the  method  of  budding  is  the 
same  as  that  employed  for  the  peach,  for  the  descrip- 
tion of  which  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  article  on 
budding  the  peach.  The  pears  are  budded  in  July, 
August  and  September,  hereabouts  ;  in  from  ten  to 
fifteen  days  the  strings  are  cut  off,  and  the  following 
spring  the  tops  are  cut  off  down  to  the  bud.  The  new 
bud  is  encouraged  and  developed  during  the  following 
summer  ;  all  buds  kept  rubbed  off  on  the  stock  below  it, 
and  the  next  fall  or  spring  is  ready  to  set  out  in  the 
orchard.  If  it  be  wished  to  graft  the  pear  to  the 
seedling  instead  of  budding  them,  it  is  usually  done 
when  the  nurseryman  has  time  through  the  winter. 
Taking  them  out  of  the  sand  or  saw-dust  and  returning 
them  when  finished,  and  planting  them  out  in  the  spring. 
The  larger  seedlings  are,  perhaps,  better  grafted  than 


220  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

budded.  Tongue  grafting  is,  I  believe,  most  often 
employed,  although  some  use  saddle  grafting,  and  not 
often  cleft  grafting. 

A  saddle  graft  is  where,  for  instance,  we  commence 
back  an  inch  more  or  less  from  the  bottom  of  the  seed- 
ling cut  square  off  several  inches  above  the  root ;  now 
shave  off  each  side  so  as  to  make  a  sharp  wedge.  Now 
take  the  corresponding  end  of  the  pear  stock  you  wish 
to  graft  on  to  the  seedling,  in  it  cut  a  deep  notch  to  re- 
ceive the  wedge  of  the  seedling.  One  fits  accurately 
into  the  other  when  cut  by  an  expert. 

Tongue  grafting  is  where  you  shave  off  only  one  side 
of  each  instead  of  making  a  complete  wedge,  then  cut 
notches  in  the  two  cut  sides  and  apply  them  together  so 
the  notches  dove-tail  in.  Cleft  grafting  is  where  you  split 
the  large  limb  and  set  in  one  or  more  of  the  grafts 
wedged  a  little  at  the  inserting  end.  After  the  stalks 
have  been  grafted,  tie  them  with  waxed  cotton  yarn  and 
put  them  back  in  the  cellar.  In  the  spring  set  them  out 
and  put  the  graft  several  inches  under  ground,  at  least 
up  to  the  first  or  best  bud  on  the  new  stalk.  Don't 
trouble  about  the  yarn,  it  rots  off  itself. 

For  a  full  description  of  grafting  and  budding,  see 
Charles  Downing's  Fruits  and  Fruit  Trees  of  America. 
Here  you  will  find  plates,  and  without  plates  it  is  not 
easy  to  properly  demonstrate   such  matters  in  a  book. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  221 

Practically,  grafting  and  budding  are  very  easily  learned 
and  all  fruit  growers  should  become  experts. 

Now  we  have  the  trees  ready  for  the  orchard,  and 
before  going  into  the  orchard  I  propose  to  treat  of  the 
varieties  of  the  pear  grown  on  the  Peninsula. 


Chapter  XII. 


VARIETIES  OF   THE    PEAR    GROWN    ON    THE  PENINSULA. 

Probably,  any  pear  that  will  thrive  in  other  parts  of 
the  world  will  grow  on  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake 
Peninsula.  I  dont  intend  by  any  means  to  convey  the 
idea  though,  that  all  these  varieties  of  pears  are  desir- 
able for  Peninsula  culture,  for  as  we  advance  in  the  sub- 
ject the  reader  will  see  that  the  number  of  desirable  and 
profitable  varieties  are  indeed  few,  and  one  of  the  greatest 
errors  in  the  business,  next  to  getting  the  wrong  kinds 
is,  to  get  too  many  kinds. 

Before  going  into  the  varieties  of  the  fruit,  let  us 
speak  briefly  of  the  various  classes  of  the  trees.  These 
are,  the  Standards,  the  Dwarfs,  and  the  Hybrids,  which 
are  standards.  It  has  been  seen  how  we  propagate  the 
Standard,  and  it  is  the  true  pear  tree  ;  strong  and  vigor- 
ous, with  no  taint  of  other  blood,  it  should  and  does 
grow  and  bear  fruit  for  hundreds  of  years. 

The  next,  the  Dwarf  tree  is,  as  has  been  shown,  a 
compound  tree,  a  pear  tree  with  a  quince  root.  The 
quince  is  only  for  the  root  to  give  life  to  the  pear  trunk, 


224  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

but  if  we  plant  the  tree  deep,  several  inches  up  the  pear 
stalk,  the  pear  stock  will  throw  off  roots  and  then  we 
will  have  what  is  called  a  half  Standard  tree. 

The  Hybrid  trees  are  obtained,  as  before  stated,  by 
the  pollen  of  one  tree  standing  near  another,  fertilizing 
the  blossom  of  the  mother  tree,  and  the  seed  of  that  fruit 
being  planted,  brings  forth  a  new  tree  with  fruit  different 
from  both  parent  trees.  Fruit  propagators  often  carry 
on  this  fertilizing  of  blossoms,  artificially. 

Now  what  kind  of  pear  tree  shall  we  plant  on  the 
Peninsula  ;  Standards  or  Dwarfs  ? 

P.  T.  Quinn  of  Newark,  New  Jersey,  a  great  au- 
thority on  pears  in  his  neighborhood,  writing  in  1869,  de- 
clared all  Dwarf  pears  for  orchard  culture  a  failure 
except  the  Duchess,  and  this  only  does  well  on  quince 
roots,  but  becomes  half  standard  by  throwing  out  roots 
from  the  pear  stock.  By  judicious  pruning,  he  says,  he 
brings  his  Standards  into  bearing  at  from  four  to  five 
years  old.  Now  this  is  better  than  we  can  do  on  the 
Peninsula  with  our  Standard  trees,  and  fully  as  well  as 
we  can  do  with  Dwarfs. 

I  have  looked  into  this  matter  very  closely  as  to  the 
advisability  of  planting  Standards  or  Dwarfs.  I  have 
visited  many  of  the  celebrated  pear  orchards  of  the 
Peninsula,  and  have  talked  with,  and  argued  the  question 
with   many  of  the  most  successful  growers,  and  am  very 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  225 

decidedly  of  the  opinion  that  were  I  limited  to  one  kind 
I  would  unreservedly  choose  the  Dwarf  pear  to  plant  for 
profit  in  field  culture  on  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake 
Peninsula. 

I  have  only  been  doubtful  as  to  one  variety,  the  Law- 
rence ;  is  it  not  better  as  a  Standard  ?  A  recent  visit  to 
the  orchards  of  John  H.  Hessey  in  Cecil  county,  Mary- 
land, has  convinced  me  that  even  the  Lawrence  is  all 
right  as  a  Dwarf,  and  bears  about  as  regularly,  (being 
full  every  other  year  and  shy  the  intervening  year,)  as  it 
does  as  a  Standard,  and  the  Standard  fruit  cannot  be 
finer  than  Mr.  Hessey's  dwarf  fruit.  I  had  four  hundred 
and  fifty  baskets  of  Lawrence  this  year  from  a  little  over 
one  hundred  Standard  trees,  which  I  thought  very  fine, 
but  Mr.  Hessey's,  from  Dwarf  trees,  were  equally  good. 

Pear  trees  were  dwarfed  in  France,  probably,  one  hun- 
dred years  ago,  and  in  this  country  have  only  been 
planted  for  about  seventy  years,  and  are,  I  think,  con- 
stantly growing  in  favor.  They  demand  and  admit  of 
high  culture,  which  gives  the  largest  and  best  specimens 
of  fruit,  and  this  is  not  always  so  with  Standards.  Not- 
withstanding what  may  be  said  to  the  contrary,  they  do 
come  in  bearing  for  profit,  in  just  about  one  half  the 
time  that  Standards  come,  barring  one  or  two  varieties 
of  Standards.  They  cost  less  at  first,  they  take  up  less 
ground,  they  are  more  sure  to  stand  after  transplanting 
15 


226  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

from  the  nursery,  and  when  properly  planted  they  be- 
come half  Standards,  and  will  live  much  longer  than  the 
average  life  usually  given  them,  which  is  from  fifteen  to 
twenty-five  years.  Having  planted  the  proper  varieties, 
they  suffer  less  from  the  ravages  of  the  blight  and  other 
diseases  than  Standards. 

I  have  now  growing  on  my  fruit  farms  over  six 
thousand  pear  trees,  and  only  about  one  thousand  of 
them  are  Standards,  and  I  would  be  thoroughly  satisfied 
if  the  ground  they  occupied  was  in  Dwarfs,  although 
most  of  the  Standards  are  past  twelve  years  planted. 
As  to  the  hybrid  trees,  they  grow  very  rapidly  as 
Standards  and  come  in  bearing  very  early,  and  they  have 
not  been  thoroughly  tested  on  the  quince,  and  as  yet, 
therefore,  I  should  recommend  those  planting  them  to 
plant  Standards,  at  the  same  time  testing  them  thor- 
oughly on  quince.  I  refer  to  the  new  hybrids  from  the 
Japanese  Sand  Pears. 

THE  SHAPES   OF   PEARS. 

The  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society's  classifi- 
cation is  now  generally  adopted,  and  is  good,  as  follows  : 

Globular.  Ovate.  Oblate.  Oblong.  Globular 
obtuse  pyriform.  Globular  acute  pyriform.  Ovate 
pyriform.  Obovate  acute  pyriform.  Obovate  obtuse 
pyriform.  Oblong  pyriform.  Oblong  ovate  pyriform. 
Oblong  obovate  pyriform. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  22/ 

As  to  the  quality,  we  say,  after  the  American  Pomo- 
logical  Society,  "best,"  "very  good"  and  "good."' 

As  to  size,  we  say,  "large,"  "medium"  and  small." 
For  example  take  the  Lawrence  pear,  it  is. 
As  to  shape,  obovate  obtuse  pyriform. 
As  to  quality,  best. 
As  to  size,  medium. 

As  to  some  of  the  prefixes  formerly  used  to  names 
of  pears,  I  shall,  as  far  as  possible,  dispense  with  them 
in  this  work,  as  Doyenne,  Beurre,  etc.,  as  they  convey 
no  particular  distinctive  mark  to  the  pear. 

LIST   OF   PEARS   THAT   MAY   BE   GROWN   ON   THE   DELA- 
WARE  AND   CHESAPEAKE   PENINSULA. 

The  list  is  given,  as  near  as  possible,  in  the  order  of 
ripening.  It  would  be  impossible  to  make  such  a  list 
absolutely  correct  in  this  respect,  as  many  varieties  vary 
with  soil,  season,  etc.  S — Standard.  D — Dwarf.  S 
and  D — Standard  or  Dwarf,  that  is,  will  succeed  well  on 
either. 

1  Lawson,  or  Comet, S  and  D 

2  Summer  Doyenne, S 

3  Sugar  Pear, S 

4  Madeline . .  .S 

5  Mannings  Elizabeth, S  and  D 

6  Ott S 


228  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

7  Dearborn's  Seedling, S 

8  Bloodgood, S 

9  Julienne,     S 

10  Brandywine ,  S 

11  Bell S 

12  Bartlett S  and  D 

13  Rostiezer, S 

14  Tyson, S 

15  Howell, S  and  D 

16  Lodge,    S 

i7LeConte S 

18  Bergamotte, S 

19  Wilmington S 

20  Belle  Lucrative,    S 

21  Duchess, D 

22  Buffum, S  and  D 

23  Louis  Bonne  (de  Jersey), D 

24  Boussock, S 

25  d'  Anjou,  D 

26  Bosc, S 

27  Urbaniste, S 

28  Dix, S 

29  Sheldon S  and  D 

30  Riitter, S 

31  Butter, S 

32  Clairgeau S 

33  Seckel, S 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  229 

34  Kiefifer, S  and  D 

35  Garbers  Hybrid, S 

36  Lawrence, S  and  D 

37  Vicar  of  Winkfield S  and  D 

38  Winter  Nelis. S 

39  Easter, ^ 

40  Sha  Lea,  (Chinese  Sand  Pear,) S 

41  Suet  Lea,  (Chinese  Snow  Pear,) S 

42  Daimyo,  Japanese, S 

43  Mikado,  Japanese ....   S 

44  Cin  Cin  Cis,  Japanese, S 

45  Hawaii,  (Sandwich  Island  Pear,) S 

I  add  these  oriental  pears  as  they  may  become 
useful  and  very  valuable  for  hybridizing  with  our  native 
pears. 

Clapp's  Favorite  is  also  grown  on  the  Peninsula, 
chiefly  as  standard.  Don't  plant  it.  It  is  a  beautiful 
tree  with  beautiful  fruit  for  a  few  years,  but  almost 
invariably  dies  of  blight. 

Lawson  or  Comet. — Propagated  and  put  on  the 
market  by  Wm.  Parry,  Pomona  Nurseries,  N.  J.,  a  very 
intelligent  and  reliable  man.  He  says  it  is  the  earliest 
pear  ripening  in  July,  is  a  vigorous  upright  grower  with 
healthy  foliage.  The  tree  has  been  in  existence  lOO 
years  and  has  never  been  known  to  blight.  Very  pro- 
ductive   and    bears    young,    and    is    reliable    either   as 


23©  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Standard  or  dwarf.  It  came  from  the  Lawson  Farm  in 
New  York  State.  As  to  quality  it  has  been  pronounced 
only  third  rate  by  those  experienced  in  testing  the 
eating  qualities  of  pears,  and  resembles  the  old  French 
Jargonelle.  The  fruit  is  large  and  handsome,  with  a  red 
blush.  I  advise  Peninsula  growers  to  test  it  carefully 
and  moderately.  We  don't  expect  to  get  the  luscious 
perfumed  pears  so  early  in  the  season,  yet  my  great  doubt 
in  regard  to  this  pear  is  whether  or  not  it  is  fit  to  eat. 

Summer  Doyenne. — I  believe  this  is  our  most 
profitable  summer  pear  for  the  Peninsula.  It  bears  young 
and  full,  regular  crops,  and  the  fruit  is  small,  but  is  well 
colored,  juicy,  sweet  and  well  flavored.  I  have  it,  it 
ships  well  and  it  pays  me  well,  it  bligths  moderately. — 
Standarel. 

Sugar  Pear. — I  introduce  this  pear  on  the  authority 
of  Thomas  J.  Shallcross,  a  well-known  fruit  grower  of 
Kent  county,  Maryland. 

It  is  the  same  as  the  Harvest  Pear  and  ripens  in 
July.  Tree  grows  and  bears  well.  Fruit  small,  round, 
pale  yellow,  brownish  red  tinge  in  the  light,  with  some 
brown  and  green  dots.  F  lesh  sweet,  but  rather  mealy. — 
Standard. 

Madeline. —  Recommended  to  me  by  Henry  H. 
McMullen,  a  well  known  and  very  intelligent  fruit  grower 
of  New  Castle  Hundred,  New  Castle  County,  Delaware. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  23I 

It  is  good  as  an  early  retail  market  pear,  but  it  won't 
ship  long  distances.  The  tree  is  vigorous  and  the  fruit 
is  pleasant  and  refreshing,  and  of  medium  size,  of  pale 
yellowish  green  color.  This  pear  has  some  perfume,  a 
valuable  quality,  particularly  in  an  early  pear.  It  is 
rather  too  much  given  to  the  blight.     Standard. 

Manning's  Elizabeth. — An  elegant,  early  pear, 
standard  or  dwarf,  but  my  objection  to  it  is  that  it 
inclines  to  blight,  as  we  generally  get  the  trees  from 
nurserymen,  at  present.  Fruit  is  medium  size,  yellow, 
and  red  cheek,  with  dots.  Is  juicy  and  melting,  and 
and  will  ship  well  for  an  early  pear.  After  the  tree  gets 
to  be  twelve  years  old  the  fruit  deteriorates  and  the 
tree  needs  to  be  treated  as  recommended  for  Duchess. 

6)//.— Albert  H.  Silver,  Esq.,  of  Red  Lion,  Del. 
grows  this  pear  to  perfection.  It  is  a  seedling  of  the 
Seckel.  Tree  productive  and  grows  moderately.  Fruit 
small,  greenish  yellow  and  reddish.  Is  rich  in  flavor, 
aromatic  and  perfumed,  different  specimens  vary  in 
flavor.     Comes  early. — Standard. 

Dearborns  Seedling. — Fruit  medium  size  ;  light  yel- 
low ;  flesh  white  and  juicy,  melting  ;  Standard. 

Bloodgood. — Richard  Jackson  recommends  this  pear, 
and  he  is  good  authority.  Other  growers  dont  thinlcit 
desirable.     The  fruit  I  think  has   the  highest  flavor  of 


232  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

any  of  our  early  pears,  but  to  have  it  in  perfection  it 
should  be  ripened  in  the  house  like  most  of  our  summer 
pears.  Yellow  and  russetty  in  color.  In  flavor  it  is  rich, 
melting  and  aromatic,  and  is  perfumed  ;  Standard. 

Julienne. — Richard  Jackson  of  Hare's  Corner,  Dela- 
ware, also  recommends  this  pear  for  a  retail  market 
near  home.  The  tree  comes  in  early  and  is  productive. 
It  is  of  good  flavor  when  prime,  but  varies  in  this  respect 
with  different  seasons,  and  that  is  an  objection.  Fruit 
small,  yellow  ;  flesh  white  ;  moderately  juicy  and  sweet. 
Standard. 

Brandywine. — Found  on  Eli  Harvey's  farm  on  the 
Brandywine.  Fruit  dull  green  and  russetty,  and  reddish 
on  one  side  ;  flesh  sweet  and  aromatic.     Standard. 

Bell. — Recommended  to  me  by  Thomas  J.  Shall- 
cross  of  Kent  county,  Maryland  Fruit  large,  greenish  ; 
early  fall  or  last  of  summer.     Standard. 

Bartlett. — Undoubtedly  the  most  profitable  variety 
for  Peninsula  field  culture.  It  is  the  pear  to  eat,  the 
pear  to  dry,  the  pear  to  can  and  the  pear  to  plant. 
Originated  in  England  in  1770,  and  was  brought  to 
Massachusetts  and  cultivated  by  Enoch  Bartlett  ;  hence, 
its  name  here.  A  Mr.  Williams  was  its  English  propa- 
gator. It  suits  the  Peninsula  climate  admirably,  and  as 
it  will  ripen  into    a  delicious    pear  if  pulled    only  two- 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  233 

thirds  grown,  we  can  throw  it  into  the  northern  markets 
early,  in  average  seasons,  and  thus  get  good  prices,  and 
when  peaches  fail,  the  Bartlett  is  a  bonanza  to  the 
grower.  It  does  well  as  Standard  or  Dwarf;  the  trees 
grow  very  rapidly  and  they  come  into  bearing  very,  very 
early,  almost  as  soon  as  peaches.  Fruit  large,  beautiful 
yellow,  with  a  blush  in  good  exposure,  sometimes  a  little 
russetty  ;  flesh  white,  fine  grained  ;  aromatic,  juicy,  but- 
tery, with  a  v4nous  flavor  and  highly  perfumed.  These  are 
certainly  many  points  of  excellence,  and  they  are  all  de- 
served. Considering  its  very  rapid  growth  it  is  a  healthy 
tree  and  free  from  disease,  blighting  occasionally,  if  on 
improper  soil  or  improperly  cared  for,  or  if  the  trees  have 
been  improperly  propagated. 

Rostiezer. — Samuel  M.  Couper,  Esq.,  of  New  Castle, 
Del.,  one  of  the  most  enthusiastic  and  successful  amateur 
fruit  growers  of  the  Peninsula,  fruits  the  Rostiezer  in  his 
grounds,  and  I  have  seen  fine  specimens  of  it  there,  and 
they  taste  as  well  as  they  look.  The  tree  is  vigorous 
and  bears  full  crops.  It  comes  six  weeks  before  the 
Seckel,  and  approaches,  but  does  not  equal  it  in  flavor. 
Mr.  Couper  also  has  the  Rutter,  another  good  pear  for 
the  autumn,  but  docs  not  compaie  with  the  Rostiezer  in 
flavor.     Standard. 

Tyson. — Somewhat  similar  to  Rostiezer.  A  Penn- 
sylvania pear.  Fruit  medium  size  ;  yellow,  russetty,  and 
a  blush  if  exposed.     Flavor  "very  good."     Standard. 


234  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Howell. — A  Connecticut  pear  ;  to  my  mind  one  of  the 
best  and  one  of  the  worst,  because  I  have  had  no  luck 
with  it,  and  probably  my  Maryland  soil  dont  suit  it,  and 
I  have  not  tried  it  in  Delaware.  It  comes  in  rather  late, 
and  does  best,  I  believe,  as  a  Dwarf.  Mine  are  Stand- 
ards. Fruit  large,  yellow,  russetty,  and  a  blush,  if  ex- 
posed. Flesh  melting,  juicy,  vinous.  Its  color  is  its 
great  feature,  so  purely  white  when  canned,  and  so,  with 
canners,  is  a  favorite.  The  tree  inclines  to  blight  too 
much. 

Lodge. — From  about  Claymont  this  pear  comes,  and 
doubtless  had  its  origin  in  Delaware,  on  the  property  of 
some  one  of  the  family  whose  well-known  name  it  bears, 
It  is  a  sub-acid  pear,  medium  size,  green,  brown  and 
russet  colors,  stalk  long,  and  the  fruit  is  a  little  swollen 
at  the  point.  Flesh  a  little  gritty  at  first,  core  large, 
good,  rich  flavor.     A  very  good  pear. 

LeConte. — A  supposed  hybrid  of  Chinese  Snow  Pear, 
with  some  cultivated  variety.  This  pear  has  come  up 
from  Georgia  with  a  great  flourish  of  trumpets,  and  has, 
with  the  Kieffer,  made  a  charge  to  carry  everything 
before  it.  In  1856  it  is  said  to  have  been  sent  into 
Georgia  from  a  northern  nursery,  labeled,  Chinese  Sand 
Pear.  It  proved  not  to  be  the  sand  pear,  but  like  it, 
would  grow  from  the  cutting.  (If  you  are  planting 
LeConte,   plant    none  but    those    raised    directly   from 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  235 

cuttings.  J.  J.  B.)  It  grows  up  like  a  Lombardy  Poplar, 
and  bears  very  young  and  abundantly,  and  the  fruit  is 
large,  greenish,  with  rose  tinge  in  extra  specimens,  with 
a  flavor  not  "  best  "  by  any  manner  of  means.  It  may 
do  well  to  can  and  evaporate,  and  its  size  may  sell  it  in 
northern  markets  as  a  table  pear.  It  does  well  as  a 
standard  only,  and  Parry  says,  if  bud  scions  are  taken 
from  trees  budded  on  the  quince  to  propagate  the 
LeConte  pear,  such  trees  will  do  no  good.  This,  he  says, 
is  true  of  all  the  oriental  pears  ;  don't  propagate  them 
from  dwarfs.  I  have  watched  the  LeConte  this  year  on 
the  Peninsula.  As  to  growing,  bearing  young,  bearing 
large  crops,  and  showing  fine  large  fruit,  the  tree  proved 
to  be  all  that  is  claimed  for  it,  but  as  to  the  fruit,  fine 
specimens  as  they  were,  not  a  single  one  of  all  that  I 
opened  but  proved  to  be  unsound  at  the  core,  and  unfit 
to  eat.  If  left  on  the  trees  they  did  not  ripen  well  and 
then  the  softening  started,  too,  at  the  core.  It  also 
blossoms  early,  and  may,  on  that  account,  be  delicate.  I 
don't  condemn  this  fine  looking  pear  on  the  result  of  one 
season,  but  I  advise  peninsula  growers  not  to  invest 
largely  in  it  until  it  has  been  further  proved.    Standard. 

Bergamotte  (Cadet.) — A  good  pear,  buttery,  sweet, 
rich,  pale  yellow,  medium  size.     Standard. 

Wilmington. — A  seedling  of  Dr.  Brinckle.  Tree 
grows  slowly,  medium  size  fruit,  green,  yellow,  russet, 
aromatic  flavor. 


236  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Belle  Lucrative. — Has  a  great  reputation.  I  have  it 
standard  in  Kent  County,  Maryland,  and  dont  recom- 
mend it  for  peninsula  field-culture  for  profit.  The  soil 
don't  suit  it,  and  that  is  the  reason  I  say  don't  plant  it. 
The  pear  is  peculiar  and  disappoints  often  when  the  soil 
don't  please  it. 

Duchess.  Duchess e  d'  Angouleme. — Pronounced  Do- 
shess-dong-goo-lame.  A  French  pear,  found  as  a  seed- 
ling in  a  hedge  in  France,  near  Angers.  A  great,  grand 
pear,  and  only  planted  on  the  quince,  and  never  as  stan- 
dard, as  the  quality  of  the  fruit  is  uncertain  on  them.  Fruit 
large,  sometimes  uneven,  green  or  greenish-yellow  and 
russetty,  and  often  a  beautiful  blush,  if  the  exposure  has 
been  right  for  the  specimen.  Flavor  and  taste  delightful, 
and  needs  only  to  be  properly  ripened  to  be  appreciated. 
It  needs  ripening  off  the  tree  and  much  care  is  needed, 
with  a  cool, dark, dry  room  and  close  watching.  The  tree 
grows  well,  and  for  the  first  ten  years  bears  large  crops  of 
enormous  pears.  Now  just  here, one  fault  of  the  Duchess 
pear  ;  at  about  ten  or  twelve  to  fifteen  years  of  age,  it 
may  let  up  on  the  size  of  its  fruit, and  give  you  too  many 
knotty  small  specimens.  Here,  cultivate  freely,  fertilize 
heavily,  and  cut  back  new  wood  and  prune  severely,  and 
I  tell  you  from  experience,  the  good  old  Duchess  will 
respond  to  your  call  and  again  make  glad  your  heart. 
The  above  treatment  will  also  check  the  tendency  to 
dropping  its  foliage  prematurely, which  it  sometimes  does. 


PEACH   AND   THE    PEAR.  ,        23/ 

Buffum. — A  New  England  pear,  and  a  good  one 
on  standard  or  quince.  Fruit  medium  size,  deep  brown, 
yellowish-green  color  and  reddish  and  russetty,  sweet, 
juicy,  and  of  high  flavor  ;  and  I  can  recommend  it  to 
peninsula  growers  for  field-culture,  especially  as  a  dwarf, 

Louise  Bonne,  (de  Jersey). — Best  as  a  dwarf  only. 
A  very  good  pear  on  some  soils.  From  experience  I 
discourage  its  planting  on  the  penninsula,  in  field-cul- 
ture.    It  don't  pay  to  ship,  but  evaporates  very  well. 

Boussock. — A  Belgian  tree,  grows  well  on  the  penin- 
sula, but.  from  my  own  experience,  I  don't  recommend 
it  for  field-culture  for  profit.  My  trees  are  standards, 
fourteen  years  old. 

d'Anjou. — A  magnificent  pear,  and  does  best  on 
quince  only  ;  on  a  competative  examination,  before  the 
National  Pomological  Society,  I  think  this  pear  received 
more  points  for  distinctive  marks  of  merit  than  any 
other  pear.  It  was  introduced  into  this  country  by 
Marshal  P.  Wilder.  It  is  late,  and  of  course  the  ripen- 
ing of  it  is  one  of  the  important  points.  The  tree  is 
vigorous,  fruit  large,  color  green-russet-reddish  and 
brown  ;  flesh  white,  semi-coarse,  melting,  juicy  and 
perfumed.  The  north  competes  with  the  peninsula  too 
strongly  to  plant  too  many  of  these  pears. 

Bosc. — A  magnificent  pear,  and  when  ripened,  as 
have   been   specimens  presented  to  me  by  Samuel  M. 


238  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Couper,  Esq.,  they  are  surpassed,  in  all  that  tends  to 
make  a  good  pear,  by  few  or  none,  indeed.  Its  specimens 
of  fruit  are  usually  perfect,  and  of  the  highest  flavor.  It 
bears  its  fruit  singly  and  not  in  clusters.  Shape  of  fruit 
pyriform,  long,  narrow  neck,  and  long  body  ;  surface 
smooth  and  russetted.  Stalk  one  to  two  inches  long, 
curved,  shallow  basin.  The  fruit  is  rich  in  flavor,  juicy, 
melting,  buttery,  Avith  a  perfume.  The  tree  grows  very 
slowly,  comes  into  bearing  very  late,  and  gives  moderate 
crops  ;  and.  for  these  reasons,  I  can't  recommend  it  for 
field-culture.  It  is  a  grand  pear  to  plant  in  handsome 
grounds  for  your  children,  or  for  your  grand  children. 
Must  be  double  worked  on  quince.     Standard. 

Washington. — An  old  and  highly  prized  pear  in  old 
time  peninsula  homes  and  some  are  now  standing  very^ 
very  old.  Fruit  medium  size,  red  dots,  yellow  surface, 
slightly  russeted,  long  stalk,  calyx  small,  shallow  basin. 
Flesh  veiy  sweet,  too  sweet  for  most  persons.  Perfumed. 
Standard.     Must  be  double  worked  on  quince. 

Urbainstc. — A  pear  of  delicious  flavor,  and  found  to 
perfection  in  the  grounds  of  George  Z.  Tybout,  Esq., 
New  Castle  Hundred,  Delaware,  but  not  to  be  recom- 
mended for  field-culture.  It  is  slightly  russeted,  with  a 
crimson  cheek  if  well  exposed  to  the  sun.     Standard. 

Dix. — A  pear  of  excellent  quality,  but  comes  in 
late,  and  not  to  be  recommended  for  field-culture. 
Standard,  if  on  quince  must  be  double  worked. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  239 

Sheldon. — A  superb  eating  pear.  Tree  vigorous, 
moderate  bearer,  medium  sized  fruit,  and  russet  in  color, 
and  a  little  blush  if  well  sunned  ;  of  a  rich,  aromatic 
flavor.  Standard.  If  we  want  this  pear  as  a  dwarf,  it 
must  be  what  the  nurserymen  call  double  worked.  The 
Sheldon  won't  take  on  the  quince  well,  therefore  this 
year  we  bud,  on  the  quince,  a  pear  that  takes  well  on  it, 
and  let  it  grow  to  next  spring,  and  then  cut  it  off  a  few 
inches  above  the  quince  and  bud  the  Sheldon  on  this 
pear  stock,  and  it  takes,  after  all  this  time  and  trouble, 
and  makes  a  good  but  high  priced  dwarf  tree.  Double 
worked  trees  are  not,  as  a  rule,  long  lived. 

Rutter. — Spoken  of  under  Rostiezer.  This  pear 
bears  its  fruit  like  strings  of  onions,  and  such  pears,  as  a 
rule,  only  bear  good  crops  every  other  year. 

Butter  Pear. — An  old  fashioned,  popular  fruit,  for 
family  use  on  the  peninsula.  Cracks  badly  in  field-cul- 
ture, and  is  not  desirable. 

Clairgean. — A  large,  handsome  pear,  reddish  brown 
and  cinnamon  towards  the  sun.  Flavor  variable  ;  not 
always  good,  and  not  desirable  for  field  culture. 

Seckel. — Without  doubt  the  most  luscious  and 
exquisitely  flavored  pear  that  grows  on  the  Peninsula. 
Fruit  small,  skin  russeted  and  greenish,  and  often  a  blush 
on  the  cheek,  where  it  greets  the  rising  sun.     The  most 


240  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

beautiful  of  Pear  trees.  Rather  a  slow  grower  v/hen 
young,  and  late  coming  in,  but  after  it  does  come  in,  it 
bears  large  and  regular  crops.  It  must  be  regularly  and 
thoroughly  tilled  and  fertilized  if  we  want  fine  specimens. 
In  }'ards,  isolated  trees  do  well  in  grass,  if  they  have  a 
moist,  rich  soil,  but  in  the  field  they  need  high  culture. 

Kieffer. — This  pear  has  made  a  sensation  in  the 
pear  world  ;  has  been  sent  out  by  interested  growers 
with  a  great  flourish,  as  blight-proof,  and  the  finest 
looking,  most  elegant,  most  luscious  pear  the  light  of  sun 
ever  shone  upon.  It  should,  according  to  Parry,  be 
spelled  "  Kieffer,"  and  then  according  to  German  rules 
should  be  pronounced  Key-fer.  Thomas  spells  it  Keiffer 
and  then  it  should  be  pronounced  Ky-fer.  I  believe  the 
originator  spells  his  name  as  Parry  has  given  it,  and  I 
call  the  pear  Key-fer.  Fruit  large,  oval,  swollen  out  in 
the  middle,  and  contracting  to  a  conical  shape  at  each 
end.  When  ripe,  is  a  beautiful  yellow,  and  with  a  lovely 
blush  of  red  towards  the  sun.  Really  a  very  handsome 
pear.  Flesh  coarse,  as  a  rule,  in  some  specimens,  fine, 
and  the  best  of  them  are  only  poor  as  an  eating  pear. 
Ripens  late  in  the  Autumn.  Tree  a  very,  very  vigorous 
grower  and  bears  large  crops  when  very  young.  At 
four  years'  old  my  largest  standards  picked  a  basket  to 
the  tree.  Now  as  to  the  uses  of  this  pear.  It  is  beauti- 
ful for  decorative  purposes,  and,  I  have  no  doubt,  will  do 
well  to  can  and  to  evaporate,  too.     As  to  its  eating  qual- 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAK.  24I 

ities,  I  see  one  good  authority  quoted  as  saying,  it  was 
surpassed  in  lusciousness  of  flavor,  or  some  such  expres- 
sion, by  no  pear  he  had  ever  eaten;  nonsense;  that 
man's  enthusiasm  had  run  away  with  his  judgment.  It 
will  never  sell  on  its  merits  as  an  eating  pear,  but  I 
believe  it  will  be  a  profitable  pear  to  raise  in  moderation, 
on  the  Peninsula,  in  field-culture,  both  as  Standard  and 
Dwarf.  //  is  not  blight-proof.  I  have  seen  the  Kiefifer 
blight  ;  and  believe,  as  now  propagated,  it  ivill  blight, 
and  probably  freely. 

It  is  supposed  to  be  a  hybrid  from  the  Chinese  sand 
pear  and  Bartlett.  The  original  tree  is  in  the  yard  of 
Peter  Kieffer,  Philadelphia,  and  was  planted  in  the  year 
1868,  and  is,  therefore,  eighteen  years  old.  I  have  no 
doubt  the  trees  propagated  directly  from  Kiefifer's  tree 
may  be  blight-proof,  for  I  have  confidence  in  raising 
blight-proof  trees  from  healthy  stock,  but  the  Kieffer 
pear  trees  now  put  out,  budded  or  grafted  on  Seedlings 
raised  from  seed  of,  we  don't  know  what  kind  of  pears, 
are  not  blight-proof,  nor  is  any  other  pear  so  propagated. 
To  check  blight,  we  want  to  commence  right  here  at  the 
seed,  and  sooner  or  later  we  must  do  it.  They  claim  for 
the  Kieffer  that  it  is  a  very  strong  and  rapid  growing 
tree  ;  true.  That  it  is  the  least  liable  to  disease  ;  doubt- 
ful. That  it  is  best  adapted  to  all  climates  and  positions  ; 
this  may  be  true.  That  it  is  the  earliest  bearer  ;  this 
may  be  true.  That  it  is  the  most  productive  ;  this  may 
l6 


242  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

be  true.  That  it  has  no  off-years  in  bearing  ;  probably- 
true.  That  the  fruit  is  large  and  well  colored  ;  true. 
That  it  keeps  well  ;  probably  true.  That  it  cans  well 
and  ships  well  ;  probably  true.  That  it  sells  at  the 
highest  market  price.  It  sells  well  as  a  novelty,  I  admit. 
I  say  plant  some  Kieffer's,  they  promise  well.  I  will 
close  this  description  with  a  paraphrase  of  Moore's  well 
known  couplet,  which  expresses  exactly  my  idea  of  the 
eating  qualities  of  the  Kieffer  pear. 

"  Extol  it,  ripen  it,  just  as  you  will, 
The  taste  of  the  sand  pear  will  hang  round  it  still." 

Garbers  Hybrid. — A  hybrid  pear  from  Columbia, 
Pennsylvania,  crossed  on  the  Chinese  sand  pear,  or  sup- 
posed to  be.     Not  well  known. 

Lawrence. — Next  to  the  Bartlett.  this  is  probably 
the  most  valuable  pear  for  Peninsula  field-culture  ;  origi- 
nated on  Long  Island.  Tree  very  hardy,  and  rarely,  if 
ever,  blights.  Grows  well  but  straggling.  Bears  early 
and  abundantly.  Fruit  medium  size,  very  smooth  and 
regular.  Color,  when  ripe,  lemon  yellow,  and  with  some, 
russet  and  brown.  Stalk  medium  and  calyx  open.  Flesh 
white,  juicy,  sweet,  with  an  exquisite  aromatic  flavor  and 
aroma.  If  I  planted  any  Standard  pear  tree  for  field- 
culture,  it  would  be  the  Lawrence,  but  the  Dwarf  does 
very  well  indeed,  as  I  have  said  before  in  another  part  of 
this  book.     The  Lawrence  can  be  kept  until  Christmas 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  243 

in  this  latitude.  It  bears  every  year,  but  the  crop  is 
heaviest,  as  a  rule,  every  other  year.  It  must  be  watched 
closely  in  the  detention  house,  and  if  you  see  a  small, 
black  speck  near  the  calyx  or  blossom  end  of  the  fruit, 
that  pear  is  not  going  to  keep,  and  should  be  marketed 
at  once. 

Vicar  of  Winkfield. — A  late  pear,  for  cooking  and 
preserving.  Every  tree  blights  and  communicates  it  to 
other  trees  in  the  orchard.  Never  touch  it  to  plant  on 
the  Peninsula,  and  I  would  like  to  see  every  tree  of  this 
variety  now  planted  here,  dug  out,  root  and  branch  and 
burned.  The  finest  specimens  I  ever  saw  were  grown 
by  John  Bacon  on  Union  street.  New  Castle,  on  an 
isolated  tree  in  a  grass  plot.  Like  most  isolated  pear 
trees  it  appears  to  thrive  whether  cultivated  or  not. 

Winter  Nelis,  Standard.  If  on  quince,  must  be 
double  worked  ;  a  Flemish  pear  and  highly  esteemed, 
North.  On  the  Peninsula,  it  drops  its  foliage,  and  is  not 
satisfactory.  A  grand  winter  pear  where  it  grows  well, 
and  I  recommend  its  further  trial  here. 

Easter. — A  very  late  winter  pear,  not  much  tried 
here,  and  ought  to  succeed,  but  is  not  sure  as  to  quality 
or  quantity.  It  is  very  fine  in  the  spring  when  well 
ripened.  Yellow,  green,  brown  and  russet.  On  quince, 
only. 


244  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Sha  Lea. — Chinese  sand  pear  which  is  supposed  to 
have  produced  the  Kieffer,  having  been  fertilized  by  the 
Bartlett.  Medium  size,  round  pyriform,  greenish  yellow 
with  russet  markings.  Is  not  a  choke,  but  yet  has  no 
pear  flavor,  and  is  only  a  little  better  than  the  quince,  to 
eat.     Is  a  good  pear  to  preserve. 

Suet  Lea. — Chinese  snow  pear,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  produced  the  Le  Conte,  having  had  its  blossom 
fertilized  by  one  of  our  native  pears.  Is  mnch  iike  Sha 
Lea. 

Daimyo,  Mikado,  Cin  cin  cis — Are  all  Japanese  pears, 
much  like  the  Chinese  sand  pears,  but  generally  ripen 
later  and  are  only  fit  for  cooking. 

Hawaii. — Sandwich  Island  pear,  and  probably  after 
the  style  of  the  Oriental  pears. 

If  rabbits  trouble  your  trees,  rub  each  tree  two  feet, 
from  the  ground  up,  with  a  piece  of  raw  liver,  once  in  two 
weeks.  Blood  frightens  rabbits.  For  mice,  throw  a 
mound  of  pure  earth  about  a  foot  high  around  each  tree, 
and  after  each  snow,  tramp  around  the  trees.  Remove 
the  earth  in  the  spring.  If  a  tree  be  girdled  by  mice  or 
rabbits,  graft  the  end  of  small  twigs  or  branches  below 
the  girdle  and  carry  the  other  end  up  and  graft  in  above 
the  girdle.  Several  of  these  may  be  necessary  for  a 
large  tree.  If  an  old  tree  you  wish  to  save  inclines  to 
fall,  plant  a  young  pear  tree  each  side,  a  foot  or  two  from 


PEACH    AND   THE    PEAR.  245 

it  ;  when  the  young  trees  are  well  rooted,  cut  off  the 
tops  and  graft  them  into  the  trunk  of  the  tree  you  wish 
to  save,  and  it  will  begin  to  derive  sustenance,  and  sup- 
port too,  from  the  new  trees  as  soon  as  the  grafts  take. 


Chapter  XIII. 


THE  PROPER  LIST  OF  VARIETIES  FOR  DIFFERENT  KINDS 
OF   ORCHARDS. 

For   a   Peninsula   family  orchard  of  fifty  Standard 
trees. 

Lawson  or  Comet i 

Summer  Doyenne 2 

Manning's  Elizabeth 5 

Ott 2 

Bloodgood 3 

Rostiezer 3 

Tyson 2 

Bartlett lO 

Howell 2 

Bosc I 

Sheldon 2 

Rutter I 

Seckel 3 

Kieffer 3 

Lawrence 8 

Winter  Nelis 2 

Total 50 


248  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

This  list  will  give  pears  from  early  summer  to  early 
spring.  I  omit  Madeline  because  it  blights  so  badly. 
I  put  in  Rostiezer  for  its  Seckel-like  flavor,  and  Rutter 
for  its  good  quality  and  productiveness,  and  Howell  for 
its  beauty,  preserved  or  canned.  I  add  Bosc  for  my  per- 
sonal admiration  of  the  fruit,  well  ripened,  and  Lawson 
as  a  novelty.     The  others  go  in  on  their  known  merits. 

A  Standard  pear  orchard  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
trees  for  the  production  of  fancy  specimens  of  the  fruit. 

This  orchard  must  receive  the  highest  culture  of 
every  kind,  and  the  owner  must  even  sit  up  of  nights 
with  it,  if  he  wants  to  shine  at  the  "Fair." 

Lawson  or  Comet 5 

Summer  Doyenne 20 

Manning's  Elizabeth     20 

Sugar  Pear 5 

Ott 5 

Dearborn's  Seedling ....  5 

Bloodgood 10 

Julienne 5 

Bell 5 

Bartlett 34 

Rostiezer 10 

Tyson 5 

Howell     10 

Le  Conte 5 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  249 

Belle  Lucrative 5 

Boussock 5 

Bosc 5 

Urbaniste 5 

Sheldon 10 

Rutter 10 

Seckel 15 

Kieffer lO 

Lawrence 30 

Winter  Nelis lO 

Sha  Lea i 

Total 250 

An  orchard  of  one  thousand  Standard  pear  trees  for 
Peninsula  field-culture  for  profit. 

Lawson  or  Comet 25 

Summer  Doyenne 50 

Manning's  Elizabeth 25 

Bartlett 400 

Seckel 25 

Kiefifer lOO 

Lawrence     375 

Total 1000 

A  family  Dwarf  pear  orchard  of  fifty  trees,  for  the 
Delaware  and  Chesapeake  Peninsula. 

Lawson  or  Comet i 

Manning's  Elizabeth 2 


250  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Bartlett 12 

Howell 5 

Duchess! 5 

Buffum 3 

d'Anjou 5 

Kieffer 2 

Lawrence .    .10 

Easter 5 

Total 50 

Wm.  Parry  says  be  careful  how  you  buy  the  Kieffer 
Dwarf,  and  that  no  Kieffer  tree,  Standard  or  Dwarf,  must 
be  budded  or  grafted  from  a  Dwarf  tree,  as  the  quince  is 
fatal  to  the  proper  propagation  of  all  Oriental  pear  trees. 
Others  deny  this. 

A  Dwarf  Pear  orchard  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
trees,"  to  give  fancy  specimens  of  fruit.  This  orchard 
must  receive  every  attention,  and  the  very  highest  cul- 
ture in  every  detail. 

Lawson  or  Comet 10 

Manning's  Elizabeth 20 

Bartlett 50 

Howell 50 

Duchess .    50 

Buffum 20 

d'Anjou * 20 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  2$! 

Kieffer 20 

Lawrence $0 

Eastern 10 

Total 250 

A  Peninsula  Dwarf  Pear  Orchard  of  one  thousand 
trees,  for  field-culture,  for  profit. 

Lawson  or  Comet 25 

Mannings'  Elizabeth   50 

Bartlett 500 

Buffum 50 

d'Anjou 50 

Kieffer 25 

Lawrence 300 

Total 1000 

When  you  come  to  plant  your  orchard  you  will  find 
much  said,  in  nurserymen's  catalogues,  and  other  places, 
about  planting  Standards  and  Dwarfs  together — such  as 
Standards  thirty  to  forty  feet  apart  and  a  row  of  Dwarfs 
between — don'i  do  it.  The  Standard  and  Dwarf  Pear- 
tree  demand  entirely  different  culture  and  treatment, 
and  they  should  be  planted  in  blocks  entirely  separate 
and  distinct. 

THE   SOIL    AND   SITE   FOR   THE    PEAR   ORCHARD. 
The  very  best  soil  for  the  pear  is  a  strong  loam  with 
some  sand,  and  a  porous,    open,    clay   sub-soil,   red    or 


252  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

yellow.  The  sub-soil  must  be  dry,  and  should  not  be 
over  forty  feet  to  water.  The  pear  will  adapt  itself  to 
almost  any  soil,  but  it  won't  thrive  in  all  soils.  Don't 
plant  your  pears  in  a  wet  soil  unless  very  thoroughly 
surface-drained,  and  under-drained  ;  and  a  soil  too  deep 
and  rich  may  force  the  trees,  give  premature  wood,  and 
this  wood  will  not  stand  fruit-bearing.  I  should  prefer 
an  unprotected  northeastern  exposure,  or,  really  an 
unprotected  exposure  all  around,  with  the  site  as  level 
as  possible  to  give  good  drainage.  I  believe  an  unpro- 
tected pear  orchard  has  the  best  chance  for  its  bloom  to 
escape  early  spring  frosts,  on  account  of  the  backening 
of  the  blossoms.  Yet  I  believe  this  question  of  clear 
exposure  needs  close  study,  as  I  have  seen  some 
orchards  do  wonderfully  well,  and  keep  especially  free 
from  blight,  where  they  had  been  thoroughly  protected 
on  all  sides,  except  the  southeast.  Any  one  wishing  to 
protect  an  orchard  can  do  it  by  peach  trees  twenty  feet 
apart,  or  by  evergreens,  or  by  osage  orange,  or  more 
profitably,  perhaps,  by  the  d'Amalis  Pear  planted  as  a 
hedge  four  feet  apart.  The  soil  and  aspect  for  the 
orchard  will  be  also  suitable  for  the  nursery  soil.  In  cul- 
tivating nursery  stock  they  should  not  be  forced  too 
much,  and  should  not  be  manured  by  green  manures,  but 
all  fertilizers  that  are  applied  should  have  passed 
through  the  fermenting  stages.  Water  near  the  pear 
orchard,    I    think    an    advantage,    and    especially   fresh 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  253 

water,  for  this  will  freeze  and  reduce  temperature.  Water 
to  northeast  to  east  is  best. 

WHEN  TO  PLANT. 
On  the  peninsula,  plant  pears  in  fall  or  spring,  really 
a  matter  of  convenience.  If  you  plant  in  the  fall,  begin 
Nov.  1st,  sure,  as  you  will  avoid  early  cold,  and  your 
trees  will  get  well  packed  by  rains  before  freezing 
weather  comes  upon  them. 

DISTANCE   APART    FOR     PEAR    TREES,    STANDARDS   AND 
DWARFS,    WHEN   SET    IN   THE   ORCHARD. 

Standard  trees  should  be  set  thirty  feet  apart  each 
way,  and  Dwarf  trees  should  be  set  ten  feet  by  fifteen 
feet,  although  many  set  them  ten  feet  by  ten  feet,  which 
is  too  close.  Twelve  feet  by  twelve  feet  is  better  than 
ten  by  ten  ;  and  many  sucessful  growers  plant  twelve  by 
twelve.  As  I  have  said  before,  never  plant  Standards 
and  Dwarfs  together  ;  put  them  in  separate  blocks. 

TO   PLANT   STANDARDS. 

Plant  so  as  to  expose  the  fruit  as  much  of  it  as 
possible  to  the  rising  sun.  Do  this,  also,  with  any  other 
fruit  tree  and  you  will  get  the  best  color.  Dig  the  hole 
deep  enough  to  take  the  tap-root  straight,  and  wide 
enough  to  take  the  laterals  without  cramping,  and  also 
make  the  hole  deep  enough  to  plant  the  tree  as  deep  as 
it  was  in  the  nursery.  Now  set  the  tree,  fill  up  one- 
third  with  soil  and  tramp  well,  seeing  that  the  roots  are 


254  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

right  ;  now  fill  up  another  third  with  soil  and  tramp  well, 
and  now  fill  up  entirely  and  tramp  well,  and  lastly, 
throw  a  little  soil  as  a  small  bank  around  the  tree.  It 
will  be  seen  here  no  sub-soil  has  been  used  ;  we  take 
the  soil  from  the  ground  around  the  tree,  and  then 
scatter  the  sub-soil  in  its  place.  Before  we  plant  the 
tree  we  should  cut  off  clean,  all  broken  or  bruised  roots* 
and  all  broken  or  bruised  limbs. 

Planting  the  Dzuarf  tree  differs  somewhat  in  method 
from  planting  the  Standard  tree.  Dig  the  holes  as  for 
Standards  and  plant  in  the  same  way,  except,  set  the 
Dwarf  tree  not  more  than  five,  and  not  less  than  three 
inches  below  where  it  has  been  grafted  to  the  quince. 
Now  the  pear  stalk  will  throw  out  first,  hair  roots,  then 
rootlets,  and  at  last,  full  roots,  and  the  tree  will  become 
a-half  Standard,  and  be  a  better  tree,  stand  up  in  storms 
better,  and  live  longer  than  with  the  quince  root  alone. 
Some  growers,  in  order  to  urge  the  starting  of  the  pear 
roots,  nick  the  bark  of  the  pear-stalk  in  one  or  more 
places  before  setting.  The  argument  is  that  nature  will 
then  become  active  here  to  repair  the  wound,  and,  hence, 
a  root  will  grow  sooner  at  this  point  ;  or,  if  the  Dwarf 
pear  tree  don't  grow  well  after  a  year  or  two,  scratch 
the  dirt  away  from  the  roots  and  slit  the  bark  in  a  few 
places  and  replace  the  dirt  ;  then  the  pear  roots  will 
start.  Now  we  have  the  orchard  planted  ;  what  shall 
we  do  with  it  until  it  comes  in  }     In  Standards,  plant  a 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  255 

little  corn,  or  potatoes,  or  raspberries,  and  in  Dwarfs 
you  may  do  the  same,  or  cabbage,  beans,  and  some 
garden  crops.  I  object  to  cropping  young  fruit  orchards 
to  any  great  extent.  They,  as  a  rule,  require  all  the 
plant-food  present,  and  are  not  able  to  share  it  and 
thrive  themselves.  Whatever  you  plant  among  young 
pears,  don't  plant  strawberries. 

PRUNING  THE  STANDARD  TREES. 
One  year  old  trees  from  the  nursery  don't  want 
much  cutting  when  planted,  as  a  rule,  unless  the  tree  is 
too  long,  then  retrench  it  to  three  or  four  feet.  If  two 
years  old  when  set,  the  best  start  is  for  a  pyramidal  tree  ; 
and  here,  retrenching  the  top  somewhat  will  start  a 
better  sap-flow  to  the  lower  branches.  Each  lower 
branch  should  be  kept  a  little  longer  than  the  one  above 
it.  Watch,  in  pruning,  the  position  of  the  buds  ;  don't 
cut  too  near  them  or  the  branch  they  form  will  be  weak. 
If  you  want  a  shoot  to  run  directly  upward,  let  the  bud 
be  on  the  inside  of  the  shoot.  If  you  want  a  limb  to 
run  in  or  out,  select  the  bud  on  the  side  you  want  the 
shoot  to  grow.  When  a  young  tree  is  set,  trim  off  the 
limbs  to  the  number  of  one  to  every  three,  and  here 
again,  let  each  limb  extend  a  little  within  the  one  under 
it.  Three  years  of  such  training  will  be  about  all  that 
is  required  for  Bartletts,  Duchess,  and  such  sorts  as 
naturally  go  to  pyramidal  growth,  in  field-culture.  The 
Lawrence  and  Winter  Nelis,  and  such  kind,  need  longer 


256  THE    CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

attention,  as  they  grow  their  limbs  in  a  straggling  way. 
After  the  primary  training  of  standards,  we  only 
keep  the  middles  clear  to  let  in  the  sun,  and  retrench  if 
the  trees  bear  too  much  wood, or  trim  again,  as  they  say, 
for  fruit.  Trim  pears  in  the  spring  or  late  winter  for 
wood.  If  for  fruit,  prune  in  the  summer.  Above  all 
things  don't  be  too  active  in  cutting  your  Standard  Pear 
Trees,  at  any  season.  The  wounds  made  by  pruning  had 
best  be  painted  over  by  Copal  Varnish,  or  common  lead 
paint,  or  covered  by  grafting  wax,  especially  if  such 
wounds  are  extensive.  1  believe  the  usual  custom  on 
the  peninsula  is  to  trust  them  to  nature,  and  I  have  not 
often  seen  bad  results. 

PRUNING    DWARF    TREES. 

When  you  set  out  a  Dwarf  Pear  Tree,  if  in  the  Fall, 
let  it  remain  until  the  coming  spring,  and  then  cut  off 
the  top  (if  it  is  a  one  year  old  tree)  to  within  from 
eighteen  inches  to  three  feet  from  the  ground, depending 
on  the  size  of  the  tree.  Cut  off  lateral  branches  if  any. 
For  a  two  year  old,  cut  by  the  rules  given  for  Standard. 
As  the  Dwarf  grows  rapidly  and  receives  high  culture,  it 
makes  wood  rapidly,  and  often  it  is  well  to  cut  back  the 
new  wood  of  the  year  one-third  to  one-half,  before 
growth  starts  in  the  spring,  and  thus  improve  both  the 
tree  and  the  fruit.  Do  this  until  the  trees  are  four  years 
old.     Dwarf  trees,  as  a  rule,  start  off  better  than  Stan- 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  257 

dards.  I  have  planted  eight  hundred  Dwarfs  at  one 
planting,  and  never  lost  one.  In  an  average  season, 
twenty-five  dead,  out  of  one  thousand  Standards  planted, 
would  be  doing  fairly  well. 


17 


Chapter  XIV 


CULTIVATING  THE  PEAR  ORCHARD. 


THE  STANDARD  ORCHARD. 

Before  speaking  of  cultivating  the  orchard,  I  will 
refer  to  one  point,  It  does  not  pay  to  top-graft  an 
apple  orchard  after  it  is  thirty  years  old,  but  pear  trees 
are  much  longer  lived,  particularly  Standards,  and  while 
there  is  life  in  the  root  of  a  pear  tree,  bad  or  good,  it  is 
worth  caring  for  and  grafting.  Cut  off  the  tree,  and  the 
stump  will  send  out  suckers  ;  bud  or  graft  these  and  you 
may  get  a  good  tree  ;  also,  you  can  top-graft  old  pear 
trees,  say  one-third  the  tree  each  year,  and  thus  change 
them,  and  in  the  same  way  you  may  top-graft  younger 
trees. 

The  pear  needs  high  culture,  as  a  rule,  and 
especially,  Dwarf  pears.  In  1871  there  were  supposed  to 
be  on  the  Peninsula,  fifteen  thousand  pear  trees.  It  is 
all  conjecture  with  me,  but  since  that  time,  say  there 
have  been  planted  on  an  average  fifteen  thousand  trees 
per   year.     Now,   from   1871    to  the    present   time,   say 


26o  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

ninety  thousand  pear  trees  have  died,  from  various 
causes  ;  at  this  rate  there  may  still  be  one  hundred  and 
forty  to  fifty  thousand  pear  trees  still  living.  Certainly 
such  mortality  shows  the  pear  to  be  a  tree  requiring 
great  and  extraordinary  attention.  The  pear  is  a 
regular  bearer  ;  fails,  I  should  say,  not  oftenerthan  once 
in  ten  years,  and,  with  extra  care,  even  this  off-year 
may  prove  fruitful.  The  Peninsula  pear  crop  may  now 
reach,  as  a  yearly  average,  seventy  five  tliousand 
baskets,  but,  like  all  my  statistics,  this  is  conjecture,  for 
I  can  get  no  date  ;  not  even  from  the  Census  Bureau  at 
Washington. 

As  to  the  cultivation  of  the  pear  orchard,  when 
determined  not  to  keep  it  in  sod,  plough  not  over  four 
inches,  in  the  middle  of  the  rows,  and  throw  a  furrow  to 
the  trees.  After  a  day  or  two  plough  again,  very  shallow, 
and  throw  the  furrows  back  to  the  trees.  Now  harrow, 
and  then  keep  the  cultivators  going  not  over  two 
inches  deep,  until  the  fruit,  bending  the  limbs  down, 
interferes  with  the  progress  of  the  horses.  This  will  be 
from  the  20th  of  June  to  the  ist  of  July.  Some  plough 
in  the  fall,  saying  it  destroys  the  pests  preying  on  the 
trees,  and  prevents  them  from  coming  next  year.  It, 
probably,  don't  destroy  many  such  and  makes  the  growth 
of  new  wood  too  succulent,  which  may  be  likely  to 
blight  next  year.  This  same  trouble  comes,  I  feel 
assured,  by    fall  fertilizing    too,    especially  with    green 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  261 

manures.  All  pear  trees,  especially  after  they  have 
become  10  to  12  years  old,  have  great  mats  of  roots, 
rather  superficial  ;  so  now  at  this  a^e  and  after  it,  unless 
your  trees  are  making-  too  much  wood,  and  you  wish  to 
root  prune  them  ;  watch  your  ploughing  very  closely 
and  make  it  very  shallow. 

Shall  we  cultivate  Standards  every  year  ?  Watch 
them  well,  so  long  as  they  do  well  ;  make  strong  non- 
succulent  wood  and  plenty  of  it,  and  bear  good  fruit  and 
large  crops  ;  cultivate  them  yearly.  If  making  too  much 
wood,  and  it  succulent  and  not  firm,  and  inclined  to 
blight,  throw  your  trees  into  sod.  Now  watch  them 
closely  ;  if  the  wood  stops  growing,  and  the  fruit 
becomes  knotty  and  small,  as  it  is  very  apt  to  do,  then 
plough  up  the  orchard  in  the  spring,  sow  down  to  clover, 
and  the  next  June  a  year,  turn  this  clover  under; 
and  after  that,  cultivate  every  year  until  trouble  comes 
again.  The  only  objection  I  have  to  turning  down  green 
clover  in  June  is,  that  in  fermenting,  it  may  prove  a 
nidus  for  bacteria,  like  green  manures  in  general,  so  I 
would  watch  this  plan  and  see  if  it  was  followed  by 
excess  of  blight. 

THE   DWARF   PEAR 

needs,    certainly,  thorough   cultivation,  and  that  every 
year,  just  as  directed  for  Standards. 

If  your  trees   are   not    doing   well,    see   if  they   are 


262  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

being  forced  too  much,  by  examining  the  length  and 
quality  of  the  new  wood,  and  also  watch  if  fruit  is 
lessening  from  the  trees  going  to  wood.  If  that  is  found 
to  be  the  case,  I  would  cease  cultivation  for  one  year,  or 
two  years  at  most,  and  in  its  stead  mulch  the  whole 
orchard  with  three  tons  to  the  acre  of  straw,  salt  hay,  or 
some  such  material.  Now,  at  the  end  of  one  or  two 
years,  as  the  case  may  be,  plough  up  the  orchard  in  the 
spring,  sow  down  to  clover,  and  then,  the  following  June 
a  year,  plough  under  the  clover,  and  then  from  that  time 
go  on  with  high  cultivation  and  high  fertilizing,  until 
similar  circumstances  demand  a  change.  It  may  also  be 
necessary  to  watch  the  new  wood,  and  at  times  if  of  too 
free  growth,  cut  it  back. 

The  Standard  orchard,  whilst  in  sod,  may  be 
mulched  around  trees  and  fertilized  on  the  sod  ;  or  either 
may  be  used  alone. 

fertilizing  the  standard  pear  orchard. 

Rule  1. 

For  trees  of  a  bearing  age  :•— Should  the  longest 
shoots  of  new  wood  measure  i8  inches,  and  the  medium 
shoots  12  inches,  and  the  shortest  shoots  8  inches,  giving 
a  general  average  of  I2|  inches,  and  should  the  fruit 
spurs,  (I  mean  the  fruit  spurs  proper.)  average  not  less 
than  one  and  a-h.ilf  inches   in  length,  and    look  robust 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  263 

and  hearty,  with  good  color,  for  such  trees  no  fertilizing 
is  needed  for  the  coming  crop  of  fruit. 

Rule  II. 

Should  the  general  average  be  reduced  by,  say  three 
inches,  and  the  fruit  buds  reduced  one  half  inch — with 
lack  of  healthy  color  and  plumpness — then  the  tree 
needs  phosphoric  acid  and  potash  for  the  coming  crop  of 
fruit. 

Rule  III. 

Should  the  general  average  of  Rule  i  be  reduced 
by  from  four  to  six  inches,  and  the  fruit  buds  be  stumpy 
and  shrunken  in  appearance,  then  the  tree  needs  phos- 
phoric acid,  potash  and  ammonia,  and  probably  some 
iron,  in  order  to  mature  well  the  coming  crop  of  fruit. 

For  fertilizing  Dwarf  Pears,  the  same  rules  may  be 
applied,  reducing  the  general  average  of  new  wood,  say, 
three  inches  in  Rule  I,  two  inches  in  Rule  II,  and  one 
inch  in  Rule  III,  and  allowing  the  fruit  spurs  to  remain 
without  alteration. 

The  Standard  pear  needs  fertilizing  on  good  ground, 
certainly,  not  every  year  as  a  rule,  and  I  should  say  a 
good  dressing  of  potash,  phosphoric  acid,  ammonia  and 
some  iron,  perhaps,  applied  every  three  to  five  years 
should  be  sufficient  ;  still,  in  all  this  you  must  be  guided 


26|  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

by  your  examination  of  each  tree,  and  then  apply  your 
rules.  If  the  tree  comes  on  to  spring  from  a  late,  wet 
and  warm  autumn,  with  a  large  growth  of  succulent 
wood,  then  you  must  make  some  exception  to  Rule  i, 
tor  to  mature  this  wood  an  extra  dose  of  fertilizer  may 
be  needed,  or  all  this  boggy,  sappy  wood  may  be 
attacked  by  blight  in  the  warm  weather  of  the  following 
summer.  The  fall  of  1884  made  poor  wood  and  little  of 
it,  and  the  trees,  generally,  needed  fertilizing  in  the 
spring  of  1885.  The  fall  of  1885  has  made  much  wood, 
as  a  rule,  on  good  trees,  yet  I  don't  think  it  sappy  and 
succulent,  because  the  whole  tree  has  prospered,  and  the 
wood- outlook  and  fruit  spurs  give  promise  of  a  good 
crop  in  1886.  If  a  tree  has  been  badly  mutilated  in 
cutting  off  blight,  then  fertilize  that  tree  well,  for  it 
wants  extra  food  to  make  up  for  its  loss  of  substance  ; 
it  wants  new  blood  and  plenty  of  it.  I  believe  rather  in 
individual  fertilizing  of  pear  trees  ;  keep  a  record  of  poor 
bearers  and  try  and  force  them.  Apply  the  fertilizer 
around  the  tree  in  the  spring  as  far  as  the  branches 
extend,  and  apply  what  the  tree  demands  by  the  rules 
given.  Don't  put  strong  potash  right  at  the  root  of 
young  trees,  but  after  they  have  borne  a  crop,  all  maybe 
applied  right  at  the  roots  ;  probably  some  care  may  be 
necessary  in  using  pure  muriate  of  potash. 

I   am  not  in  favor  of  using  as  a  fertilizer  on  pear 
orchards,  either  lime  as  generally  used  in  agriculture,  or 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  265 

green  manures — manures  in  which  fermentation  is  still 
going  on.  The  reasons  for  this  have  been  given  when 
speaking  of  the  diseases  of  the  peach,  and  will  be 
referred  to  again  when  I  come  to  treat  of  the  diseases  of 
the  pear.  The  pear,  like  the  peach,  needs  phosphoric 
acid — potash,  ammonia,  and  sometimes  iron — and  these, 
with  chlorine,  may  be  applied  in  many  shapes.  The 
prepared  or  artificial  fertilizers,  come  in  all  shapes,  and 
are  to  be  preferred.  I  like  kainit,  applied  just  as  I  have 
recommended  for  peaches — and  as  there,  we  may  mix  it 
with  acid  phosphate,  one  quarter  or  even  one-half  its 
bulk,  or  weight,  and  apply  broadcast  or  by  drilling,  after 
ploughing  in  the  spring,  and  then  harrowing  it  in.  Use 
as  much  as  you  choose  for  pears,  200  lbs.  to  1000  lbs. 
per  acre,  as  occasion  may  require.  Use  muriate  of 
potash  alone — 3  to  5  lbs.  to  10  lbs.  to  the  tree,  applied  in 
the  spring,  and  harrowed  in — or  apply  the  potash  mixed 
with  acid  phosphate,  125  to  200  lbs.  to  the  ton,  and 
drilled  in  in  the  spring,  200  lbs.  to  1000  lbs.  per  acre. 
Any  good  phosphate  may  be  used,  containing  phosphoric 
acid,  potash  and  ammonia,  drilled  in  in  the  spring,  after 
ploughing  and  harrowing,  200  lbs.  to  1000  lbs.  per  acre. 
Bone  meal  is  good,  but  I  prefer  it  undivided,  as  it  acts 
quicker.  If  you  think  your  trees  need  iron,  apply  it  as 
in  peaches.  Sometimes  liquid  manures  ;  these  same  fer- 
tilizers dissolved  in  water  and  applied  little  and  often, 
may  be  used  with  good  effect  to  force  large  specimens  of 


266  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

fruit,  but  we  can't  carry  this  out  in  practical  field  culture. 
Rain  water,  light,  heat,  etc.,  all  do  their  part  in  growing 
the  pear,  and  have  been  explained  in  their  relations  to 
growth,  when  we  were  speaking  of  the  peach.  In  fact, 
the  fartilizing  of  the  pear  differs  very  little,  if  any.  from 
the  fertilizing  of  the  peach,  and  as  all  this  has  been 
fully  treated  of  under  the  head  of  the  latter  fruit,  nothing 
more  need  be  said  here. 

For  formulae  for  fertilizers,  see  those  given  for 
peaches.  They  are  all  equally  useful  for  the  pear,  and 
are  to  be  applied  to  them  in  the  same  way,  and  in  the 
same  quantities,  more  or  less,  as  to  peaches. 

Salt  is  good  applied  to  pear  trees  as  a  fertilizer.  It 
gives  chlorine,  etc.,  and  is  detrimental  to  the  slug  and 
other  pests.  Formerly,  I  used  it  to  a  considerable 
extent,  but  since  kainit  has  become  cheap  and  obtain- 
able, I  rely,  generally,  on  the  salt  contained  in  it. 

TREE   WASHES   FOR   PEARS. 

Use  the  washes  recommended  for  peaches;  also, 
one  pound  caustic  potash  to  one  gallon  water.  Apply 
with  a  whitewash  brush  late  in  March,  or  in  April. 
This  is  too  strong  for  buds  and  small  twigs. 

Another  :  Caustic  soda,  one  pound,  water,  one 
gallon.  Use  as  the  other  wash.  This  may  touch  the 
buds  and  small   shoots,  and  will,   probably,   not    injure 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  267 

them.  These  washes  act  as  fertilizers  and  pest  destroyers. 
The  same  variety  of  pear  varies  very  much  in  different 
soils,  and  because  a  variety  is  not  fine  on  the  Peninsula, 
is  no  reason  it  may  not  be  good  in  New  England, 
although  there  are  few  varieties  that  will  not  flourish 
and  give  good  flavor,  size  and  color  here.  Should  any 
be  found  deficient,  study  them  well  and  experiment  with 
fertilizing  them,  and  you  will,  doubtless,  be  rewarded  by 
good  returns.  The  cracking  of  fruit  is  usually  produced 
by  a  fungus,  and  will  be  treated  of  under  enemies  of 
the  pear.  Should  the  cracking  be  noticed  as  the  pears 
mature,  apply  salt  around  the  base  of  the  tree,  a  pint  or 
quart  to  the  tree. 


Chapter  XV. 


DISEASES   AND   ENEMIES   OF   THE   PEAR. 

The  diseases  and  enemies  of  the  pear  are  many  and 
various,  and  I  shall  take  them  up  and  treat  of  them  in  the 
following  order  : 

Fire  Blight, 

Twig  Blight, 

Frozen  Sap  Blight. 
Blight  :  ^    Frost  Blight. 

Insect  Blight. 

Leaf  Blight. 

Blight  of  Fruit. 
The  Slug. 
Bark  Lice. 
Scale  Insects. 
Curculio. 
The  Elements. 
Starvation, 
Overfeeding. 
Cracking  of  the  Fruit. 
Decaying  of  the  Fruit. 
The  Borer  and  other  Insects. 
Premature  Shedding  of  Foliage. 
Frost, 
Cracking  of  the  Bark. 


270  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Before  going  further  I  will  give  an  analysis  of  the 
heart  wood,  the  sap  wood,  the  bark  and  the  fruit. 

Analysis  of  the  Heart  Wood. 

Potash 27.00 

Soda 

Lime 23.14 

Magnesia 3.O0 

Sulphuric  Acid 0.45 

Phosphoric  Acid 10.40 

Phosphate  of  Iron 80 

Analysis  of  the   Sap    Wood. 

Potash 22.25 

Soda 1.84 

Chlorine 0.31 

Sulphuric  Acid 0.50 

Phosphate  of  Lime 27.22 

Phosphate  of  Peroxide  of  Iron 0.31 

Carbonic  Acid 27.69 

Lime 12.64 

Magnesia . .    3.00 

Silex 0.30 

Organic  Matter 4.02 

Analysis  of  the  Bark. 

Potash 6.20 

Soda .      ...  


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  27I 

Chlorine 1.70 

Sulphuric  Acid.    1.80 

Phosphate  of  Lime 6.50 

Phosphate  of  Peroxide  of  Iron  ...... 

Carbonic  Acid 37-39 

Linne . .     30.36 

Magnesia 9.40 

Silex 0.42 

Organic  Matter 4. 18 

Analysis  of  the  Ash  of  the  Pear  Fruit. 

Potash   54.70 

Soda 8.32 

Lime 7.97 

Magnesia 5.22 

Sulphuric  Acid 5.66 

Silicic  Acid 1.49 

Phosphoric  Acid 14-31 

Phosphate  of  Iron i  .96 

All  these  analyses  will  be  seen  to  be  of  importance 
when  we  come  to  treat  of  the  remedies  for  the  diseases  of 
the  trees,  and  are  useful  to  refer  to  when  reading  of  fer- 
tilizing the  trees,  and  might  have  been  given  in  that 
Chapter. 

The  first  of  the  diseases  of  the  Pear  to  be  treated 
of  is  blight,  the  scourge  of  scourges  with  which  the  pear 
is  afflicted. 


2/2  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

FIRE   BLIGHT. 

This  form  of  blight  comes  rapidly,  and  is  a  sudden 
withering  of  the  wood  and  bark,  preceded  by  the  black- 
ening of  the  leaves,  and  may  confine  itself  to  one  or 
more  limbs,  or  involve,  rapidly,  the  whole  tree. 

The  part  of  the  tree  left  not  affected,  is  apparently 
in  perfect  health.  The  first  attacks  oi  fire  blight  come 
with  the  first  hot  weather,  yet  in  the  spring,  the  bark, 
if  thoroughly  examined,  will  show  dry,  dark  spots,  and 
the  sap  will  appear  thicker  than  natural.  Heretofore 
this  form  of  blight  has  been  supposed  to  have  been 
caused  by  a  wet,  warm  autumn  forcing  a  large  amount 
of  succulent  wood,  and  this  wood  not  being  matured,  falls 
an  easy 'prey  to  blight  on  the  advent  of  hot  weather.  I 
will  give  my  ideas  of  its  cause  further  on. 

TWIG    BLIGHT 
is  about  the  same  disease  as  fire  blight,  affecting  leaves 
and  twigs  only. 

FROZEN   SAP   BLIGHT. 

Symptoms  are,  in  the  spring,  thick  sap,  wood  rather 
dryer  than  natural  when  cut  across  ;  dead,  dark  patches 
of  bark  on  the  branches.  The  parts  affected  shrivel  and 
turn  black  on  the  approach  of  warm  weather.  The  heart- 
wood  will  be  found  dead  below  where  the  outside  bark 
appears  healthy  ;  so  in  cutting  you  m.ust  go  several  inches 
below  the  apparent  dead  wood.     Downing  accounts  for 


PEACH   AND   TIIK    TEAR.  2/3 

these  severe  forms  of  blight  as  follows,  but  he  docs  not 
go  far  enough  to  find  the  real  cause  :  In  every  tree 
there  are  two  currents  of  sap.  one  up,  through  the  outer 
wood  or  alburnum  to  be  digested  by  the  leaves,  the  other 
downward,  which  descends  through  the  inner  bark  or 
liber,  forming  a  deposit  of  new  wood  on  its  passage  down. 
Now  the  summer  before  the  tree  blights,  is  followed  by  a 
damp  and  warm  autumn  preceding  an  early  and  severe 
winter.  •  The  summer  was  dry  and  the  wood  growth  was 
completed  early,  but  the  damp,  warm  autumn  forced  the 
tree-wood  to  a  second  growth,  which  continued  late. 
Now  while  the  sap  vessels  are  still  full  of  their  fluid,  a 
sharp  freeze  comes,  and  this  is  repeated  for  several  nights, 
followed  in  the  day  time  by  bright  sun.  The  descend- 
ing current  of  sap  becomes  thick  and  clammy  so  as  to 
come  down  with  difficulty  ;  it  chokes  up  the  sap  vessels, 
freezes  and  thaws  again,  loses  its  vitality  and  becomes 
dark  and  discolored,  and  in  some  cases  so  poisonous  as 
to  destroy  the  leaves  of  other  plants  when  applied  to 
them.  Here,  along  the  inner  bark,  it  lodges  and  remains 
thick  and  sticky  all  winter.  If  it  happens  to  flow  down 
until  it  meets  with  any  obstruction  and  remains  in  any 
considerable  quantity,  it  freezes  again  beneath  the  bark, 
ruptures  and  destroys  the  sap  vessels,  and  the  bark  and 
some  of  the  wood  beneath  it  shrivel  and  die.  In  the 
coming  spring  the  upward  current  of  sap  rises  through  its 
ordinary  channel,  the  outer  wood  or  alburnum,  the  leaves 
t8 


274  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

expand,  and,  for  some  time,  nearly  all  the  upward  current 
being  taken  up  to  form  leaves  and  new  shoots,  the  tree 
appears  flourishing.  Toward  the  beginning  of  summer, 
however,  the  leaves  commence  sending  the  downward 
current  of  sap  to  increase  the  woody  matter  of  the  stem. 
This  current  has  to  pass  down  through  the  inner  bark  of 
liber  along  which  still  remain  portions  of  the  poisoned 
sap,  arrested  in  its  course  the  previous  fall.  This  poison 
is  diluted  and  taken  up  by  the  new  downward  current, 
distributed  toward  the  pith  and  along  the  new  layers  of 
alburnum,  thus  tainting  all  the  neighboring  parts. 
Should  any  of  the  adjacent  sap  vessels  have  been  ruptured 
by  frost,  so  the  poison  thus  becomes  mixed  with  the  still 
ascending  current  of  sap,  the  branch  above  it  immedi- 
ately turns  black  and  dies,  precisely  as  though  poison 
had  been  introduced  under  the  bark.  In  a  note  in  Down- 
ing, he  quotes  Duhamel  as  saying  :  The  sap  corrupted 
by  putrid  water  or  excess  of  manure,  bursts  the  cellular 
membranes  in  some  places,  extends  itself  between  the 
wood  and  the  bark,  which  it  separates  and  carries  its 
poisonous  acrid  influences  to  all  the  neighboring  parts 
like  a  gangrene.  Now  these  descriptions  are  graphic 
and  true  to  nature,  and  the  causes  given  are  plausible  as 
far  as  they  go,  indeed,  I  believe  are  true,  but  they  just 
stop  short  of  the  real  cause,  as  will  be  seen  further  on. 
Pears  which  mature  their  wood  early,  as  the  Seckel  and 
Duchess,  making  short    and    firm  joints,  are   the    pears 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  2^$ 

which  are  freest  from  blight,  as  will  readily  appear  from 
what  has  been  said. 

FROST  BLIGHT 
docs  not  differ  from  the  blight  we  have  been  speaking  of. 

INSECT   BLTC.HT. 

In  May  and  June,  shoots  at  the  ends  of  branches, 
extending  not  beyond  the  wood  of  two  years  growth, 
turn  dark  in  color,  and  the  leaves  soon  turn  black,  and 
the  wood  becomes  shriveled  and  very  hard.  Where 
this  blight  starts,  or  near  it,  will  be  found  the  cause.  It 
is  caused  by  the  egg  of  a  beetle,  (Scolytus  Pyri.) 
deposited  there  the  year  before,  in  July.  The  beetle  is 
small,  deep  brown,  with  light  brown  limbs.  Thorax 
short  and  studded  with  bristles.  The  wings  have 
punctured  points,  and  between  these  points  are  rows  of 
bristles.  The  egg,  having  been  deposited  the  year 
before,  hatches  either  then,  or  next  May  or  June,  on 
the  Peninsula,  and  then  the  small  grub  or  larva  bores 
through  the  sap  wood,  going  in  at  the  root  of  a  bud, 
and  burrows  toward  the  centre  of  the  limb.  The  branch 
dies  beyond  the  burrow,  and  we  have  insect  blight. 
The  grub  now  completes  his  transformation  and  passes 
out,  and  we  have  the  beetle  again,  as  heretofore 
described,  and  on  it  goes  to  lay  its  eggs,  and  thus  with 
it  the  wheel  of  nature  revolves. 


276  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

LEAF   BLIGHT 

has  been  spoken  of  in  connection  with  nursery  stock, 
and  comes  from  crowding  the  trees,  and  may  be 
avoided  by  thinning  them.  It  checks  the  growth  of  the 
trees  for  the  year.  A  fungus  is  often  found  on  the 
leaves,  and  is  supposed  to  be  a  cause,  as  it  is  also  of 
cracking  of  fruit  in  certain  varieties,  in  certain  localities. 

BLIGHT   OF   FRUIT. 

The  pear  fruit,  at  times,  fails  to  perfect  itself,  and 
blights  before  it  is  of  sufficient  size  and  flavor  to  eat,  and 
this  is  entirely  distinct  from  natural  decay.  It  may 
attack  the  pears  of  any  tree,  and  in  any  place,  and  under 
any  circumstances,  This  blight  is  caused  by  the  presence 
within  the  pear  of  Entozoa — Parasites,  (animals  or  vege- 
tables living  within  the  bodies  of  other  animals  or 
vegetables.  When  the  fruit  is  nearly  matured,  it  pits 
and  softens  under  the  skin,  and  an  internal  rot  begins, 
and  the  fruit  decays,  rots  at  the  core.  Now,  this  is  often 
found  coming  on  good  pears,  and  I  suspect  the  LeConte 
of  it  in  some  Peninsula  soils.  If  you  can't  gather  and 
dispose  of  the  fruit  for  cooking  purposes  before  the 
trouble  commences,  you  will  lose  it  all.  As  the  pear 
gets  soft  and  watery,  the  parasites  come  to  maturity  and 
move  about.  Put  a  portion  of  the  pear  pulp  in  muslin 
and  press  it,  and  take  a  drop  of  the  juice  that  exudes, 
thin  it  with  water,  and  put  it  under  the  microscope,  and 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  2^^ 

you  will  see  the  little  snake-like  bodies  moving  about 
and  feeding  on  the  mycelia  present  in  the  fluid  with 
them. 

Now,  having  described  the  different  kinds  of  blight 
affecting  the  pear,  we  come  to  treat  of  its  cause.  What  is 
the  cause  of  blight  .'  As  in  yellows  in  the  peach,  I 
believe  the  cause  of  each  and  every  form  of  blight  in 
the  pear  to  be  bacteria,  and  I  believe  that  blight 
flourishes  most  in  land  that  has  been  enriched  by  lime 
and  green  manures,  stable  manure,  barn-yard  manure, 
hog  manure,  and  all  green  matters  which  have  to  go 
through  fermentation  before  being  resolved  into 
their  elements,  and  before  they  can  become  food 
for  plants  and  trees.  I  believe  such  land  with 
such  surroundings  furnishes  the  most  inviting  territory 
for  the  proliferation,  so  to  speak,  of  these  bacteria, 
and  with  the  crowding  of  trees  into  this  territory, 
we  have  here  every  element  for  their  production, 
for  their  endurance,  and  for  their  life-work.  For  a 
description  of  these  animals,  or  vegetables,  as  they 
may  be,  I  refer  the  reader  to  the  chapter  on  Peach- 
Yellows,  where  he  will  remember  they  are  described. 
Now  when  we  were  describing  Fire-Blight,  Frozen  Sap- 
Blight,  etc.,  had  wc  but  added  and  adduced  these 
bacteria  as  the  cause,  coming  in  the  sap,  under  circum- 
stances rendered  favorable  by  succulent  growth,  freezing, 
by  the  irregular  seasons,  and   by  the  heat  of  spring  and 


2/8  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

summer,  we  should  have  had  the  story  of  the  Pear- 
Blight  of  every  kind  in  a  nut  shell.  We  take  the 
healthy  Pear  tree.  In  this  tree  there  are  bacteria,  as 
there  are  in  all  healthy  trees.  Now,  for  some  of  the 
reasons  mentioned,  perhaps,  or  for  others,  these  bacteria 
increase,  millions  and  millions  and  thousands  of  millions, 
in  a  few  hours.  Now  follows  a  great  stirring  up,  a  fermen- 
tation ;  heat  is  increased,  and  the  sap,  instead  of  being 
good,  rich,  healthy  blood  for  the  tree,  is  hot,  with  the 
fever  produced  by  the  presence  of  these  disease-germs, 
for  such  they  now  are.  The  digestion  of  the  tree,  the 
changing  of  starch  into  sugar,  the  action  of  the 
chlorine  on  the  leaves,  etc.,  is  all  interfered  with,  and 
for  reasons  of  their  own,  these  bacteria  congregate  in 
one  limb  or  two  limbs,  (just  as  in  man,  under  similar 
circumstances,  one  toe  only  may  become  gangrenous,) 
and  congregating  here,  the  attacks  are  so  fierce  and 
concentrated,  that  all  molecular  change  is  checked,  and 
hence,  with  this  stoppage  of  cell-action  comes  gangrene, 
death.  In  a  healthy  tree  these  germs  probably  assist 
the  change  of  starch  to  sugar,  and  only  are  pests  when 
increasing  rapidly  and  infinitesimally  as  they  do  in 
diseases  of  animals  or  vegetables.  In  Peach-Yellows 
there  are  enough  to  sicken  the  tree,  in  Pear-Blight  they 
come  in  sufficient  numbers  to  overwhelm  and  destroy 
at  once,  and  appear  elective  as  to  their  choice  of  location, 
not  distributing  themselves  over  the  whole  tree,  but  select 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  279 

their  home  in  one  or  more  branches  and  here  cause  a 
very  boiling-  of  the  sap.  Blight  was  absent,  or  very  rare, 
on  the  Peninsula  until  we  commenced  to  crowd  in  Pear 
trees,  and  then,  just  as  with  human  beings,  the  minute 
they  were  crowded,  zymotic  diseases  (bacterial,  or  fer- 
mentative diseases)  appeared,  and  here  is  a  decided  proof 
of  its  germ  origin.  If  we  starve  trees  we  may  get  blight, 
just  as  when  we  crowd  and  starve  numbers  of  human 
beings,  we  have  typhus  fever,  measles,  typhoid  fever, 
and  other  zymotic  diseases,  breaking  out  among  them. 
If  we  over-feed  trees,  we  may  get  blight  just  as  we  get 
cholera,  or,  cholera  morbus,  at  least,  in  man.  In  seasons 
of  changing  temperature,  of  thunder  storms,  of  very 
sudden  changes  from  heat  to  cold,  and  vice  versa,  we 
know  pear-blight  thrives,  and  under  just  such  circum- 
stances, we  know  bacteria  increase  and  multiply,  and  all 
this  is  an  evidence  to  me  of  the  bacterial  origin  of  this 
curse  on  the  Pear  tree.  The  peculiar  bacterium  which 
causes  blight  has  been  claimed  to  have  been  found  by 
Prof  T.  J.  Burrill  of  the  Illinois  Industrial  University. 
He  calls  it  the  ''Micrococcus  Amylonovus"  and  gives 
some  description  of  it  which  I  have  not  at  hand. 
Now  given  the  peculiar  germ  that  causes  the  trouble, 
the  next  point  is  to  experiment  practically  with  it. 
These  germs  can  all  be  increased  indefinitely  in 
number  by  artificial  culture,  in  such  menstrua  as 
beef-tea  and  gelatinized    solutions  and    such,  and  they 


280  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

should  be  so  cultivated,  and  their  habits  studied.  They 
should  be  inoculated  into  healthy  pear  trees,  such 
as  the  Seckel  and  Duchess,  which  rarely,  if  cvjr 
blight,  and  then,  again,  into  the  Vicar  and  Clapp's 
Favorite,  which  almost  always  blight,  sooner  or  later. 
The  leaves  and  fruit,  as  well  as  the  bark  of  the  trees, 
should  be  inoculated,  and  the  results  watched  and 
studied,  and  by  these  means  we  might  get  at  once  the 
history,  habits  and  life  of  the  disease-germ  and  a  remedy 
against  its  ravages.  Who  is  to  do  this?  Who  can,  but 
the  State  or  National  Government  ?  This  matter  will  be 
referred  to  further  on.  This  pear  tree  blight  is  certainly 
a  local  fungus,  and  may  be  be  developed  by  any  one  of  a 
number  of  causes.  As  when  the  wood  don't  ripen  well 
the  previous  year,  and  then,  next  summer,  with  high 
temperature,  with  the  wood-acid  and  nitrogenous  matter 
present,  here  will  be  the  soil  for  the  development  of  the 
blight  fungi,  or,  of  one  of  them,  for  I  believe  there  may 
be  a  number  coming  under  different  circumstances. 
Stagnant  water  contains  germs  and  breeds  them,  that 
may  enter  the  pear-roots  and  cause  blight,  and  hence, 
drainage  must  be  attended  to  in  the  pear  orchard,  and 
hence,  a  sandy  loam,  well  drained,  is  good  ground  for 
pears. 

REMEDIES   FOR  PEAR    BLIGHT. 

To    remedy   any   disease,  find    out    the    cause    and 
remove  it.     If  we  have  found  out  this  cause,  it  is    our 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  28 1 

place  to  Study  it,  experiment    with  it,  and    do   all    we 
possibly  can  to  arrest  its  ravages. 

Science  is  progressive.  I  don't  despair  of  success, 
and  I  believe  we  are  now  on  the  right  road  to  accomplish 
not  only  in  the  vegetable  world  but  in  the  animal,  the 
destruction  of  the  right  hand  weapon  of  the  fell  destroyer, 
the  invisible,  but  mighty  disease-germ,  and  I  further 
believe  that  the  day  is  near  at  hand  when  each  zymotic 
disease  will  be  known  by  its  own  peculiar  form  of 
microbe. 

The  great  starting  place  to  prevent  blight  is  in  the 
seed.  Our  seedlings,  as  now  raised,  are,  doubtless, 
grown  from  seed  taken  promiscuously  from  budded  fruit 
of  all  kinds,  and  are  grown  in  land,  perhaps,  contiguous 
to  orchards  containing  trees  more  or  less  blighted.  The 
buds  and  grafts  for  these  seedlings  are  taken  from  trees 
growing  among  trees  diseased  as  well  as  healthy,  and 
what  can  we  expect  as  a  result  ?  Certainly  only  trees 
that  will  grow  up  with  delicate  constitutions,  produce 
succulent  wood,  and  holding  out  inviting  hands  for  an 
early  attack  of  blight.  Trees  should  be  raised  from 
the  seed  of  the  wild,  or  common  choke  pears,  and  buds 
and  grafts  should  be  obtained,  in  turn,  only  from  trees 
raised  from  the  proper  seedlings.  If  the  National 
Agricultural  Department,  at  Washington,  would  devote 
some  of  its  talent  and  money  to  the  supplying  this 
country  with  healthy  seedlings   for  the   pear,  and   also 


282  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

healthy  grafts  and  buds,  it  would  be  doing  work  worthy 
of  the  gratitude  of  the  whole  country. 

If  pear  land  is  damp  or  wet  it  should  be  drained, 
and  thus  the  chances  of  blight  will  become  less. 

As  to  shelter,  I,  as  I  have  said  before,  prefer  an 
open  site  for  the  pear  orchard,  but  H.  H.  McMullen,Esq., 
of  New  Castle  Hundred,  has  a  pear  orchard  of  about 
fifty  trees  or  more,  probably  25  years  old  ;  they  are 
sheltered  by  his  house,  by  pine  trees  and  farm  buildings 
on  all  sides,  except  the  southeast.  These  trees  have 
always  borne  excellent  crops,  and  I  believe  there  has 
never  been  any  blight  in  them.  There  are  both  Dwarf 
and  Standard  trees,  and  some  of  them  are  of  varieties 
that  blight  frequently  in  other  places.  I  think  this  is 
the  most  satisfactory  little  pear  orchard  I  have  ever 
known.  It  has  been  kept  well  tilled,  and  fertilized  with 
stiper-phosphates. 

If  a  tree  blights  I  advise,  at  once,  to  cut  out  every 
trace  of  it,  and  several  inches  of  sound  wood  beyond 
the  blight.  A  blighted  tivig,  even,  should  never  stay  on  a 
pear  tree  twenty-four  hours.  Have  it  cut  off,  carried 
away  and  burned.  Keep  one  man  in  your  orchard  all 
the  time,  if  necessary,  in  hot  weather,  to  cut  out  blight, 
carry  it  out  of  the  orchard  and  bjirn  it  forthwith.  After 
you  have  cut  out  the  blighted  wood,  slit  down  the  bark 
from  the  cut  (if  on  a  limb)  to  the  maiti  trunk,  and  then 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  285 

slit  the  bark  of  the  main  trunk  on  two  opposite  sides 
from  the  crotch  to  the  ground,  and  well  down  the  roots. 
Then  dig  out  the  soil  from  around  the  tree,  one  foot 
deep,  and  one  or  two  feet  from  the  tree  on  all  sides,  and 
sprinkle  it  well  with  the  carbolic  acid  tree-wash,  and  fill 
up  the  hole  with  new  soil  taken  from  without  the  orchard, 
apply  the  carbolic  acid  tree-wash  to  the  body,  and,  as 
far  as  possible,  to  all  the  limbs  of  the  tree.  Give  the 
trees  a  good  dressing,  (especially  if  the  wood  and  fruit- 
buds  appear  to  indicate  it  by  the  rules  laid  down  under 
the  chapter  on  fertilizing  the  orchard)  of  a  fertilizer 
suitable  to  the  case. 

CARBOLIC   ACID    FRUIT-TREE   WASH. 
For  five  hundred  trees — take 
Crude  Carbolic  Acid,  one  pint  ; 
Strong  Whale  oil  soap,  or  soft  soap,  one  gallon. 

Mix  this  with  two  gallons  of  boiling  water,  let  it 
stand  twenty-four  hours,  and  add  seven  gallons  of  rain 
water.  R.  Peters  added  soil  to  thicken  it,  and  the  wash, 
before  noticed  as  his  wash,  may  be  used  instead  of  this. 
If  applied  in  May  and  June  it  will  destroy  the  eggs  and 
drive  off  all  kinds  of  moths. 

I  say,  don't  use  green  manures  if  you  don't  want 
blight.  If  they  are  to  be  used,  they  should  be  thoroughly 
composted  for  a   long   time   until  all  fermentation   has 


284  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

ceased.  As- to  barn-yard  manure  itself,  it  don't  contain 
phosphoric  acid  enough  to  balance  the  amount  of  nitro- 
gen it  contains,  and  a  dressing  of  bone  or  acid  phosphate 
after  it  will  always  increase  any  crop,  and  keep  up  the 
general  condition  of  the  iarm.  In  general  farming  I 
advocate,  as  a  rule,  the  application  of  all  green  manures 
to  the  corn  crop,  and  with  it  a  small  dressing  of  a  good 
chemical  fertilizer,  rich  in  phosphoric  acid  ;  any  good 
acid  phosphate  will  do.  Corn  is  a  hog.  and  will  take  up 
and  utilize  plant-food  in  any  shape.  As  to  potatoes 
I  advocate  raising  them  with  chemical  fertilizers,  rich  in 
phosphoric  acid,  potash  and  ammonia.  The  potato  rot, 
I  believe,  is  caused  by  raising  them  with  green  manures, 
and  these,  fermenting,  give  every  inducement  to  the 
increase  of  bacteria,  and  these  cause  the  decay  ;  of 
course,  other  influences,  as  atmospheric  influences,  etc., 
come  in  to  help  increase  the  bacteria  ;  but  keep  fermen- 
tation down  and  these  other  influences  won't  be  sufficient, 
in  themselves,  to  cause  such  troubles  as  potato  rot. 
For  pears  needing  fertilizing  after  having  been  affected 
with  blight,  you  may  use  any  of  the  formulae  I  have 
given  for  peaches  or  pears  in  the  quantity  necessary,  or 
you  may  use  kainit,  six  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre, 
or  from  five  to  twenty  pounds  to  each  tree,  or  such  a 
formula  as  follows  : — 

Muriate  Potash,  500  lbs. 

Bone  meal,  or  dissolved  bone,  1500  lbs. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  285 

200  lbs.  to  400  lbs.  per  acre,  or  from  5  to  20  lbs.  to 
each  tree. 

Never  crop  your  orchard  when  blighting.  You  may- 
throw  a  standard  orchard  into  sod  and  top  dress  the 
land,  and  sometimes  check  blight  ;  or  sow  to  clover  as 
before  recommended,  and  plough  under,  the  next  June  a 
year,  and  watch  the  result.  My  objection  to  lime  here 
is,  that,  as  a  top  dressing,  it,  in  the  absence  of  potash,  is 
taken  up  too  freely  by  the  trees  for  their  own  good,  and 
in  sod  can't  act  rapidly  enough  to  liberate  the  potash 
naturally  in  the  sand  and  stones  of  the  soil. 

A  Dwarf  orchard  needs  the  very  highest  culture,  and 
should  scarcely  ever  be  thrown  into  sod.  The  most  I 
would  do,  would  be  to  seed  to  clover  in  the  spring,  and 
then  plough  under,  the  next  June  a  year,  and  watch  it. 
Remember,  in  pruning  diseased  fruit  trees,  always  to 
observe  the  rule  I  gave  when  speaking  of  pruning 
diseased  peach  trees  ;  apply  to  your  knife  or  saw,  one  of 
the  germicides  there  given,  before  leaving  one  tree  to  go 
to  another.  Indeed,  in  pear  blight,  you  ought  to 
thoroughly  disinfect  your  instrument,  not  only  between 
trees,  but  even  in  going  from  one  limb  to  another,  so 
contagious  is  this  disease.  One  word  more,  and  I  close 
this  subject.  A  grower  has  in  his  yard  a  favorite  pear 
tree  ;  this  tree  grows  in  sod,  continuously,  and  bears  him 
abundant  crops  of  luscious  fruit,  and  receives  no  care  of 
cultivation,  whatever,  and  never  shows  signs  of  blight  in 


286  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

any  way.  The  trees  in  his  orchard,  receiving  every  care 
of  cultivation  and  fertilizing,  sadden  his  heart  in  yield- 
ing to  the  destructive  influences  of  that  disease,  and  so 
he  argues  that  they  are  receiving  the  wrong  treatment, 
and  he  will  leave  them  to  nature,  as  he  does  the  tree  in 
his  yard,  and  they  will,  necessarily,  thrive  as  it  does. 
He  is  wrong,  he  is  reasoning  from  false  premises. 
Isolated  pear  trees,  as  a  rule,  never  blight,  they  only 
blight  when  crowded  in  orchard  culture.  Here  the 
bacteria  increase  and  multiply  to  the  point  where  they 
become  a  disease,  just  as  they  do  under  the  same  cir- 
cumstances with  mankind,  and  this  is  the  reason  his 
favorite  tree  in  the  yard  flourishes,  while  his  orchard- 
trees  wither  and  die. 

THE   SLUG. 

Next  to  blight,  the  slug  is,  probably,  the  most 
serious  enemy  of  the  pear  on  the  peninsula,  now  active. 
Here  we  call  it  the  slug  worm,  from  its  snail-like,  slimy 
character.  In  England  they  call  it  the  slimy  grub  of 
the  pear  tree.  Scientists  generally  speak  of  it  as  Harris 
does,  as  the  Selandria  {Blenno  Campd)  Cerasi.  Blenno 
Campa  signifies  slimy  caterpillar.  It  is  a  species  of  saw 
flly,  and  the  above  name  is  the  name  of  the  fly.  Another 
name  is,  or  rather  a  name  for  the  slug  is,  Erio  campa 
adumbrata. 

According  to  Harris,  the  slug  fly  is  of  a  glossy  black 
color,  except  the  first  two  pairs  of  legs,  which  are  dirty 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  287 

yellow,  with  dark  colored  thighs,  and  the  hind  legs 
which  are  dull  black  with  clay  colored  knees.  The 
wings  are  convex  and  rumpled  on  the  upper  side,  like 
the  wings  on  saw  flies,  generally.  They  are  transparent, 
reflecting  prismatic  colors,  and  have  a  smoky  tinge,  form- 
ing a  broad  band  across  the  middle  of  the  first  pair  ; 
the  veins  are  brownish.  The  body  of  the  female  is  over 
one-fifth  of  an  inch  long.  The  male  is  smaller.  These 
flies  appear  on  the  Peninsula  in  the  first  very  warm 
weather  of  May  or  June.  They  soon  begin  to  lay  their 
eggs,  and  in  three  weeks,  have  disappeared.  Their  eggs 
are  placed  singly,  within  small  semi-circular  incisions 
through  the  skin  of  the  leaf,  and  generally  on  the  lower 
side  of  the  leaf.  These  flies  are  not  easily  alarmed 
whilst  thus  eagaged  in  laying  their  eggs.  In  fourteen 
days  these  eggs  begin  to  hatch,  and  the  young  slug- 
worms  continue  to  come  forth,  from  the  last  of  May 
until  about  the  tenth  of  July,  being  influenced  in  time, 
somewhat,  by  the  season.  If  the  season  is  early,  the 
flies  deposit  their  eggs  early,  and  if  late,  they  are  late  in 
laying  their  eggs,  hence,  the  slug  worms  are  late  in 
coming. 

At  first  the  slugs  are  white,  but  a  slimy  matter 
soon  oozes  out  of  their  skin  and  covers  their  backs  with 
an  olive-colored,  sticky  substanee.  The  slugs  have 
twenty  very  short  legs,  a  pair  under  each  segment  of  the 
body,  except  the  fourth  and  the  last.     They  are  about 


288  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

nine-twentieths  of  an  inch  long,  when  fully  grown. 
The  head  is  snnall  and  of  a  dark  chestnut  color,  and  is 
concealed  under  the  fore  part  of  the  body.  They  are 
largest  before,  and  taper  behind,  and  resemble  small 
tadpoles.  They  swell  out  the  fore  part  of  the  body  and, 
rest  with  the  tail  a  little  turned  up.  They  live  mostly 
on  the  upper  side  of  the  pear  leaves,  and  eat  the  sub- 
stance, leaving  only  the  veins  and  the  under  skin 
untouched.  They  may  be  so  numerous  as  to  cover  the 
leaves.  The  trees  thus  attacked  are  forced  to  throw  out 
new  leaves  during  the  hot  weather,  at  the  ends  of  the 
twigs  and  branches  that  still  remain  alive,  and  thus  use 
leaf  buds  that  should  not  have  come  out  until  the  next 
spring.  Thus  the  vigor  of  the  trees  is  exhausted,  and 
as  the  leaves  elaborate  the  juices  of  the  fruit,  the  fruit 
itself  must  suffer.  In  twenty-six  days  these  slugs  come 
to  their  growth  and,  in  this  time,  cast  their  skin  five 
times.  They  eat  the  first  four  coats,  but  never  the  last, 
and  after  they  have  gone,  you  see  this  last  skin  stretched 
on  the  leaf.  After  this  last  coat  has  been  shed,  the 
slugs  are  not  slimy,  but  have  a  clean  yellow  skin,  and 
not  viscid. 

They  change  also  in  form,  become  longer,  and  you 
can  see  the  head  and  the  marks  between  the  rings. 
Now  in  a  few  hours  they  leave  the  trees,  having  crept  or 
fallen  to  the  ground,  and  a  high  wind  at  this  time  with 
dry  atmosphere,  favors  them.     Now,  on  the  ground  they 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  289 

burrow  from  one  inch  to  three  or  four  inches,  as  the  soil 
is  soft  or  hard.  They  wriggle  in  their  holes  until  they 
form  a  space  for  themselves  their  own  shape  ;  now  they 
line  it  with  a  sticky,  glossy  substance  to  which  the  grains 
of  earth  adhere.  Now  this  becomes  their  cocoon  and  in 
them  they  change  to  chrysalids.  In  sixteen  days  this 
is  finished,  and  they  break  their  cells  and  crawl  to  the 
surface  where  they  appear  as  the  winged  fly,  the  point 
from  which  we  started.  This  second  crop  of  flies  for 
the  season  comes  on  the  Peninsula  about  the  middle  of 
July  to  August  first,  and  lay  their  eggs  for  a  second 
brood  of  slugs.  These  latter  are  again  seen  on  the  trees, 
and  dont  reach  their  growth  until  September,  when 
they  go  into  the  ground  as  the  first  brood  of  slugs  did. 
This  September  brood  remains  in  the  ground  all  winter, 
and  they  come  out  flies  the  next  Ma)-,  and  so  the  wheel 
revolves.  Some  may  remain  in  the  ground  until  the 
second  season  before  they  come  out  as  flies. 

The  remedies  for  the  slug  are  various.  White  helle- 
bore, one  pound  to  thirty  gallons  of  water,  and  throw  it 
on  the  leaves  by  a  fountain  syringe,  or  through  the  rose 
on  the  watering  pot.  White  hellebore  as  sold  is  often 
inert  and  useless  ;  snuff  it  a  little  and  if  it  makes  you 
sneeze,  it  is  good,  if  not,  it  will  be  of  no  use.  Green 
hellebore  (our  common  polk  root)  will  do  as  well  and 
can  be  gathered  and  dried  for  the  purpose.  Dust  them 
with  any  dust  (road  dust,  plaster,  lime,  ashes,  etc.,  will 
IQ 


290  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

kill  them)  and  is  best  applied  in  the  mornings  when  the 
leaf  is  damp.  Paris  j^reen  and  London  Purple,  one  table- 
spoonful  to  five  gallons  of  water,  will  destroy  them 
quickly.  So  arsenic,  in  same  proportions  and  is  cheaper. 
These  of  right  should  be  boiled  to  dissolve  them  as 
much  as  possible,  and  agitate  constantly  whilst  apply- 
ing. These  last  poisons  are  perfectly  safe  for  the  first 
crop  of  slugs,  but  don't  use  them  on  the  second  crop, 
when  fruit  is  maturing  ;  they  might  prove  very  dangerous 
to  those  eating  the  fruit.  Hellebore  may  be  used  at  any 
time.  Mice,  rabbits  and  moles  destroy  many  in  their 
cocoons  and  birds  destroy  many  as  slugs  and  flies.  They 
also  have  an  enemy  of  their  own,  a  small  fly  which  lays 
its  egg  in  the  slug  fly's  egg  ;  from  this  egg  a  maggot  is 
hatched,  and  it  devours  the  slug-fly  egg,  forms  its  cocoon 
in  it,  changes  to  a  chrysalis  and  hence,  to  a  fly  again. 
The  secret  of  getting  rid  of  the  slug  is  to  watch  it  and 
get  ahead  of  it  ;  hence,  it  is  important  to  know  all  about 
it,  and  its  habits  ;  watch  carefully  the  first  hot  spell  in 
May  and  you  will  soon  see  the  little  flies.  They  now  begin 
to  lay  their  eggs,  and  now  is  the  time  to  hellebore  them 
or  Paris  green  them,  for  it  will  be  absorbed  by  the  eggs 
and  destroy  them.  Now  in  two  weeks  remember  the 
eggs  hatch,  and  now  apply  your  remedies  and  don't  let 
them  get  ahead  one  day  or  they  will  get  ahead  of  you 
entirely.  In  the  same  way  watch  for  the  second  crop, 
which  we  have  told  all  about. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  29I 

ORCHARD  CATERPILLARS 

of  different  kinds,  true  and  false,  bother  pear  trees  a 
great  deal,  although  I  can't  say  they  do  great  harm,  as  a 
rule,  yet  they  make  large  nests  and  eat  more  or  less  of 
the  leaves.  Winter  is  the  time  to  destroy  these  in  their 
rings  of  eggs  on  the  shoots.  Clip  them  off"  and  burn 
them,  or  burn  them  off  with  a  torch  on  a  long  handle. 
They  are  nearly  an  inch  long  and  half  an  inch  fn  diam- 
eter. 

THE    APHIS. 

Bark  lice  have  been  described  when  writing  of 
peaches,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred.  Destroy  them 
by  one  of  the  tree  washes  given,  or  by  Sulphide  of 
Calcium,  one  pound  to  five  gallons  of  water. 

SCALE. 

These  insects  have  also  been  described  and  treated  of, 
under  peaches.  For  their  destruction  use  the  tree-wash 
according  to  the  directions.  A  wash  of  gas-lime  and 
water  will  contain  Calcium  Sulphide,  and  makes  a  very 
useful  wash  for  trees  subject  to  any  pests. 

CURCULIO. 

Curculio  has  been  described  when  treating  of  the 
peach.  It  certainly  injures  pears  more  or  less  on  the 
peninsula,  and  every  means  in  the  power  of  the  grower 
should  be  used  to  destroy  it.     Use  the  same  remedies  as 


292  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

given  for  it  on  peach  trees  ;  also  on  Pears.     Paris  Green 
them  early  in  the  season. 

APPLE   WORM. 

Codling  moth  :  a  true  caterpillar  ;  and  in  due  time 
changes  to  a  moth,  called  Carpo  Capsa  Pomofiella,  and 
is  very  beautiful,  with  brown,  copper  and  gray  colors, 
with  satin  yellow.  This  moth  does  injury  to  pears,  sure  ; 
but  is  not  a  pest  as  yet  as  it  is  in  apple  orchards.  The  eggs 
are  laid  in  the  fruit,  and  the  worm,  hatching,  burrows  in 
towards  the  core,  and  the  apple  drops,  as  a  rule,  and  the 
worm  comes  out  of  it,  gets  into  a  sheltered  place  in  the 
bark  of  the  tree  and  spins  a  white  cocoon,  then  turns 
to  a  chrysalid,  and  then  comes  the  moth  again.  This 
is  Harris's  description.  Paris  Green  these  pests,  or  use 
hellebore,  etc.  The  grower  who  watches  all  these 
destroyers  the  closest,  and  makes  way  with  them,  will 
have  the  best  fruit  and  most  of  it.  I  don't  think  the 
peninsula  grower  yet  realizes  what  destructive  agents  all 
these  creatures  are,  and  they  are  increasing.  After  a 
while  some  great  natural  destroyer  comes  along  and 
decimates  them,  just  as  happens  to  all  life  on  the  globe, 
from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  ;  for  how  else  could  life  on 
the  earth  survive  } 

THE  PEAR  TREE   OYSTER  SCALE. 

Diaspis  ostreae-formis, (Curtis.)  From  U.  S.  Gov.  Agri- 
cultural Report,  1880.)    The  scale  of  the  female  is  circular 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAK.  293 

or  broadly  oval,  and  dark,  ashy  gray  color,  and  some- 
times nearly  white.  The  cxuviei;  arc  dark  brown.  The 
body  of  the  female  is  rounded,  cordate  when  young. 
The  anterior  group  of  spinnerets  consist  of  eight  to 
twelve  ;  anterior  laterals  of  twelve  to  thirteen  ;  posterior 
laterals  of  eight  to  fourteen.  Median  lobes,  large  and 
connate  about  half  their  length.  Each  lobe  is  rounded 
at  its  dorsal  extremity,  and  widened  anteriorly, sometimes 
abruptly.  On  each  side  of  the  median  lobes  are  three 
slight  incisions  in  the  margin  of  the  body  ;  the  margins 
of  these  incisions  are  thickened  ;  there  is  a  fifth  rudimen- 
tary lobe,  usually  between  the  fifth  and  sixth  plates.  All 
plates  except  the  first  pair  are  well  developed.  There 
are  three  or  four  plates  on  the  penultimate  segment, 
and  on  the  ante-penultimate,  one  or  two.  The  spines 
are  a  short  one  near  the  meson,  on  the  first  lobe,  and  a 
long  one,  lateral,  on  the  same  lobe  ;  third  and  fourth 
caudal,  of  first  and  second  incisions  ;  fifth,  lateral  of 
third  incision,  and  the  sixth,  between  the  sixth  and 
seventh  plates.  On  ventral  surface  the  spines  are 
smaller,  and  the  first  and  second  are  obsolete  ;  and  the 
third  and  fourth  on  side  of  the  second  and  third  incisions, 
and  the  fifth  between  the  fourth  and  fifth  plates. 

The  scales  of  the  male  are  of  an  elongated,  oval 
form,  and  much  flattened,  especially  posteriorly.  The 
middles  are  feebly  keel-shaped  and  the  sides  are  not  keel- 
shaped.     The  larval    skin  is  light  brown  and    is   about 


294  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

one-third  the  length  of  the  whole  scale.  The  ventral 
side  is  closed,  leaving  only  a  narrow  transverse  slit  at  the 
posterior  end.  Color  of  scale,  white  ;  length,  2-3  of  an 
inch.  The  color  of  the  male  is  bright  ochre,  with  eyes 
and  throat-band  black.  This  scale  is  common  in  Eng- 
land and  I  give  it  here  in  order  that  our  growers,  especi- 
ally our  intelligent  young  growers,  intent  after  know- 
ledge, may  look  for  it,  and  looking  for  it,  I  know  they 
will  find  it.  Every  fruit  grower  should  be  a  naturalist, 
even  if  in  a  small  way.  Any  of  the  tree  washes  given 
will  destroy  them.  Especially  carbolic  acid  washes,  and 
the  wash  of  one  pound  of  copperas  to  one  gallon  water. 

THE  ELEMENTS. 

Heat  we  have  spoken  of  as  often  injuring  the  pear 
prospect,  so  thunder  storms,  cold  rains,  especially  east- 
erly rain-storms,  coming  on  and  lasting  several  days  at 
the  latter  end  of  blossoming  time,  often  decimate  the 
crop.  Wind  storms  and  rain  storms  at  picking  time  are 
also  destructive,  but  against  such  visitations  of  God,  poor, 
weak  man  is  powerless. 

STARVATION. 

Many  trees  suffer  from  starvation,  and  starved  trees 
are,  of  course,  subject  to  all  the  train  of  evils  coming  on 
weak  trees.  The  remedy,  of  course,  is  proper  nourish- 
ment. 


TEACH    AND   THE   TEAR.  295 

OVERFEEDING. 
Trees  may  be  injured  by  overfeeding  as  well  as  by 
starvation,   and  it  becomes  the  liberal  grower  to  watch 
closely  the  effect  of  his  freely  applied  fertilizers. 
CRACKINCx  OF  THE  FRUIT. 
This  comes  from  a  fungus  on  the  fruit  and  the  best 
remedy  is  salt  to  the  trees,  with  good  culture  generally. 
Dry  weather  and  heat  may  also  crack  some  varieties. 
DECAYING  OF  THE  FRUIT. 
The  decaying  of  fruit  from  fruit  parasites  has  been 
spoken  of.     The  natural  decay,  as  here  alluded  to,  must 
be  combatted  by  proper  culture,  and  prompt  and  proper 
attention  to  the  fruit  before  and  after  it  has  been  picked. 
THE  PEAR  TREE  BORER.— y^£6'ri a  Pyri. 
It  is  thus  described  by  Harris  : 

Its  wings  expand  rather  more  than  half  an  inch,  are 
transparent,  but  veined,  bordered,  and  fringed  with  pur- 
plish black,  and  across  the  tips  of  the  fore  wings  is  a 
broad,  dark  band,  glossed  with  coppery  tints  ;  the  prevail- 
ing color  of  the  upper  side  of  the  body  is  purple  black  ; 
but  most  of  the  under  side  is  golden  yellow,  as  are  the 
edges  of  the  collar,  of  the  shoulder  covers,  and  of  the 
fan-shaped  brush  on  the  tail,  and  there  is  a  broad,  yellow 
band  across  the  middle  of  the  abdomen,  preceded  by  two 
narrow  bands  of  the  same  color. 


296  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

An  infested  tree  is  known  by  the  castings  thrown 
out  of  the  small  perforations  made  by  the  borers,  which 
live  under  the  bark  of  the  trunk,  and  subsist  chiefly  upon 
the  inner  bark.  They  make  their  cocoons  under  the 
bark,  and  change  to  chrysali'ls  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
summer.  The  winged  insect  appears  in  the  autumn, 
having,  like  others  of  this  kind,  left  their  chrysalis  skins 
projecting  from  the  orifice  of  the  holes  which  they  had 
previously  made.  In  its  winged  form  it  is  like  the 
yEgeria,  which  inhabits  the  currant  bush,  but  is  smaller. 
The  remedy  is  to  hunt  them  in  their  holes,  known  by  the 
castings  around  it,  and  poke  them  with  wires,  and  apply 
one  of  the  tree  washes.  One  of  the  carbolic  acid  washes 
is  the  best. 

This  borer  inhabits  both  the  Standard  and  Dwarf 
pear  woods. 

THE  QUINCE  TREE  BORER—"  Super  da  Bivittata^ 

This  is  the  borer  that  plays  havoc  with  the  Dwarf 
pear  trees,  attacking  the  quince  stock.  Downing  de- 
scribes it  as  the  larva  of  a  brown  and  white  striped  beetle, 
half  an  inch  long,  and  it  remains  in  this  grub-state  two 
or  three  years,  coming  out  of  the  tree  in  a  butterfly  form, 
the  last  of  May  or  the  first  of  June,  and  flies  in  the  night, 
only,  from  tree  to  tree,  after  its  food,  and  finally  deposit- 
ing its  eggs  during  this  and  the  next  month  in  the  collar 
of  the    tree.     Here  the  grub  eithc    girdles  the    quince 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  297 

Stock  or  perforates  it  in  every  part,  and,  if  not  destroyed, 
finally  causes  the  death  of  the  tree.  Pick  it  out  with  a 
knife,  or  poke  it  to  death  with  a  wire.  Pile  ashes  around 
the  trunk  and  it  can't  reach  the  quince  to  deposit  its 
eggs.  Trees  planted  below  the  pear  and  quince  junc- 
tion won't  suffer  from  these  borers.  Build  small  fires  about 
the  orchard  in  June  nights,  and  thousands  of  these  and 
other  beetles  will  be  destroyed.  These  fires  are  to  be 
recommended  in  all  Peninsula  fruit  orchards,  in  the  warm 
nights  of  May  and  June,  yearly. 

The  Areoda  Lanigera,  Goldsmith  beetle,  sometimes 
eats  the  tender  leaves  of  pear  trees.  Harris  describes  it 
as  nine-tenths  of  an  inch  long,  broad,  oval  in  shape,  of 
lemon  yellow  color  above,  gold  head  and  breast,  under 
side  of  body  copper  colored,  and  covered  with  whitish 
wool.  Its  legs  are  yellow  and  green.  Its  larvae  are  un- 
known.    Destroy  them  by  night-fires  in  the  orchard. 

The  seventeen  year  locusts — Cicada  Septendccini — 
may  destroy  Pear  trees.  The  larvae,  in  countless  numbers, 
are  sometimes  found  at  the  roots  of  declining  trees,  with 
their  suckers  piercing  the  bark.  Dig  them  out  and  apply 
a  carbolic  acid  tree-wash  in  the  hole. 

Another  enemy  to  the  pear  is  described  by  Harris 
as  the  Pear  Tree  Psylla — Psylla  Pyri — Harris'  descrip- 
tion is  taken  from  KoUar's  Treatise.  The  Psylla  comes 
from  its  winter  retreat  provided  with  wings,  as  soon  as 


298  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

the  buds  of  fruit  trees  begin  to  expand  in  the  spring. 
After  pairing,  the  female  lays  her  eggs,  in  great  numbers, 
near  each  other,  on  the  young  leaves  and  blossoms,  or 
on  the  newly  formed  fruit  and  shoots.  The  eggs  are 
oblong,  yellowish,  and  look  something  like  grains  of 
pollen.  The  young  insects  hatched  therefrom  resemble 
wingless  plant-lice,  and  are  of  a  dark  yellow  color. 
They  change  their  skins  and  color  repeatedly,  and 
acquire  wing-scales,  or  rudimentary  wings.  They  then 
fix  themselves  to  the  bark  in  rows,  and  remain  sucking 
the  sap  till  their  last  change  approaches,  at  which  time 
they  disperse  among  the  leaves,  cast  off  their  skins  and 
appear  in  the  winged  form.  When  considerable  numbers 
attack  a  Pear  tree,  it  soon  assumes  an  unhealthy  appear- 
ance, its  growth  is  checked,  its  leaves  and  shoots  curl 
up,  and  the  tree  dies  by  degrees,  if  not  freed  from  its 
troublesome  guests. 

To  destroy  the  Pear  Psylla,  Koller  recommends 
brushing  them  off.  etc.,  which  would  be  too  slow  for  the 
large  Peninsula  orchards.  For  its  destruction,  I  would 
recommend  the  application  of  the  following  wash  which 
I  have  received  from  Washington  through  the  courtesy 
of  the  Superintendent  of  the  grounds  attached  to  the 
Agricultural  Department  ;  Mr.  Wm.  Saunders. 

This  wash  has  been  used  in  the  grounds  with  great  suc- 
cess in  the  blight  of  Pear  trees,  being  applied  as  a  paint  as 
often  as  necessary  when  the  bark  is  injured,  or  apparently 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  299 

dying,  removing  the  old  bark  to  the  sap-wood  first.  Mr. 
Saunders  thinks  sulphur  is  the  most  useful  ingredient, 
not  attaching  much  importance  to  the  Carbolic  Acid. 

THE  SAUNDERS  AGRICULTURAL  GROUNDS  PEAR  TREE 
WASH. 

Crude  Carbolic  Acid,  one  quart. 

Powdered  Sulphur,  ten  pounds. 

Stone  Lime,  one-half  bushel. 

Hot  Water,  sufficient  to  make  whitewash. 

Put  the  sulphur  and  lime  together  in  a  barrel  and 
pour  on  hot  water  until  the  lime  has  been  slaked. 
This  wash  should  be  applied  to  the  body  and  limbs  of 
the  trees  before  the  buds  expand  in  the  spring,  and  it  then 
will  not  injure  them.  Of  course  it  is  not  to  be  used 
unless  we  have  found  evidence  of  the  presence  of  the 
psylla,  in  the  spring,  or  the  year  before. 

These  remarks  concerning  these  insects  may  be  dry 
reading  to  some,  but  I  warn  peninsula  fruit  growers  to 
heed  them,  for  they  are  increasing  annually  in  numbers 
and  kind,  and  in  the  future,  he  who  fights  them  most 
successfully  will  be  the  most  amply  rewarded. 

Don't  forget  to  build  fires  in  all  your  fruit  orchards 
eachseason,occasionally  during  the  hot  nights  in  May,and 
each  of  the  summer  months,  Thousands  of  moths  will 
fly  into  these  fires  and  be  destroyed. 


3CX)  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

SHEDDING   OF   FOLIAGE. 

It  appears  to  be  inherent  in  some  pear  trees  to  shed 
their  foliage  prematurely,  independent  of  any  pest  or 
disease.  The  Belle  Lucrative  does  this  on  the  Peninsula, 
and  so,  to  some  extent,  the  winter  Nelis  and  Duchess. 
If  it  seriously  affects  the  trees,  I  advise  root-pruning  in 
the  autumn.  Expose  the  roots  three  or  four  feet  from 
the  tree  and  cut  them  off  with  a  clean  cut.  Pour  in 
some  soap  suds,  and  cover  up  the  roots  and  the  opera- 
tion is  finished. 

FROST. 

At  times,  cold  is  a  serious  enemy  to  the  pear.  The 
wood  is  stronger,  and  less  delicate  than  peach  wood, 
and  probably  no  degree  of  cold  we  have  on  the  peninsula 
ever  kills  the  wood  or  even  the  fruit  buds.  But  the  tree 
entering  the  winter  with  a  second  autumn  growth  of 
succulent  wood,  may  have  this  wood  so  affected  by  low 
temperature,  as  to  render  it  liable  to  the  ravages  of 
blight,  when  the  warm  weather  comes — as  has  been  ex- 
plained under  that  disease.  It  is  in  the  spring  that  the 
pear  suffers  most  from  frost,  just  when  the  blossom  is 
perfected,  and  on  to  the  time  when  it  is  leaving  the 
embryo  fruit.  I  think  the  Duchess  Pear  is  particularly 
a  little  tender  at  this  time.  Again,  at  this  stage,  an 
easterly  storm  with  cold  rain  is  very  apt  to  cause  great 
loss  to  the   pear  grower,  and,  indeed,  I   look  upon   the 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  3OI 

coming  of  such  a  storm,  at  such  a  time,  in  the  light  of 
as  great  a  disaster  as  can  come  upon  the  approaching 
pear  crop.  Late  frosts  may  cut  the  foliage,  somewhat, 
of  trees,  but  this  is  not  serious,  and  is  soon  repaired. 
A  smudge  burned  on  frosty  nights,  in  small  orchards, 
where  the  thermometer  goes  to  44  \  or  lower,  may  raise 
the  temperature  two  or  three  degrees,  and  is  worthy  of 
trial. 

CRACKING  OF  THE  BARK. 
The  bark  of  pear  trees  may  be  cracked  by  frost, 
disease  or  accident.  If  seriously  cracked,  clean  well  and 
apply  the  Saunders  Agricultural  Grounds  Wash.  If  a 
tree  is  injured  and  much  bark  is  skinned  off  and  lost, 
apply  clay  mortar  with  some  of  this  wash  mixed  in  it  to 
render  it  antiseptic,  then  wind  a  piece  of  cotton  duck 
around  the  part  affected,  and  tie  it  on  with  woolen  yarn. 
The  yarn  will  expand  with  the  growth  of  the  tree  and 
in  a  year  or  two,  on  removing  the  dressing,  the  wound 
will  be  found  to  have  healed.  Any  kind  of  injured  tree 
may  be  saved  by  such  a  process.  Before  leaving  this 
subject  of  diseases,  and  enemies  of  the  pear,  let  me 
impress  upon  growers  the  necessity  of  protecting  the 
insectivorous  birds  frequenting  their  orchards,  and  I 
even  crave  this  protection  for  the  much  abused  sparrow, 
unless  he  becomes  much  more  numerous  than  he  is  at 
present.  Frown  down  all  wanton  destruction  of  insect- 
eating  birds,  and   enforce   by  precept  and  example,  all 


302  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

laws  formed  for  their  protection,  and  you  will  preserve 
and  enlist  in  your  cause  a  worthy  ally  in  your  struggle 
with  the  insect  pest. 


Chapter  XVI 


PICKING   PEARS. 

As  a  prelude  to  picking  the  matured  fruit,  comes  in 
hand-thinning  of  the  undeveloped  fruit,  in  order  to 
give  that  allowed  to  remain  on  the  tree,  a  better  oppor- 
tunity for  development.  Among  amateur  growers  and 
in  garden  culture,  and  small  orchard  culture,  this  is  a  prac- 
ticable operation,  and  is  to  be  recommended,  if  one 
wishes  to  get  fine  specimens  of  large  fruit.  In  the  large 
orchards  of  the  Peninsula  where  the  pear  is  grown  for 
market  profit,  this  hand-thinning  is  not  much  practised 
on  account  of  the  great  labor  it  requires.  In  a  measure 
I  advocate  it,  especially  in  Dwarf  culture,  and  especially 
in  productive  kinds  like  the  Buffum,  or  Barlett,  or  Howell. 
When  we  find  a  limb  over-crowded,  pick  off  a  few  of 
the  poor  ones  and  you  will  get  finer  and  larger  pears 
from  those  that  remain. 

It  has  been  given  as  a  rule  in  hand-thinning  fruit,  to 
take  off  all  you  think  should  come  off,  and  then  take  off 
half  of  those  which  remain.  This  is  a  good  rule  for  the 
professional  or  amateur  raising  specimens  for  the  Agri- 


304  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

cultural  Fair,  and  it  is  in  this  way  premiums  are  taken. 
Such  hand-thinning  would  be  neither  practicable  nor 
profitable  in  large  field  orchards,  and  for  them  is  not  to 
be  recommended. 

PICKING  THE  CROP. 
Most  pears  when  ripened  off  the  trees,  color  up 
better,  have  a  finer  perfume,  and  are  of  much  richer  flavor 
than  when  ripened  on  the  trees.  Yet  many  will  ripen 
well  on  or  off  the  trees,  as  the  Bartlett,  but  the  Clapps 
Favorite,  for  instance,  will  be  disappointing  if  permitted 
to  remain  on  the  tree  until  mellow.  It  must  be  gathered 
at  just  the  right  time,  kept  in  the  right  place,  and  eaten 
at  the  right  time,  or  it  will  rot  at  the  core  and  be  worth- 
less. These  points  will  serve  to  show  how  much  judg- 
ment and  experience  must  be  exercised  in  gathering  the 
pear  crop.  The  early  varieties,  as  the  Summer  Doyenne 
and  Bartlett,  and  Manning's  Elizabeth,  must  be  gathered 
early,  in  order  to  get  them  into  market  and  anticipate 
the  northern  growers,  and  the  peach  competition.  A 
Bartlett  pear,  two-thirds  grown,  will  ripen  off  the  tree 
with  good  flavor,  and  usually  can  be  gotten  to  market 
before  peaches  come,  but  there  are  exceptional  years, 
when  the  season  is  late,  and  they  come  in  with  Penin- 
sula peaches,  much  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  pear. 
The  season  of  1885  was  thus  an  unprofitable  season  to 
the  growers  of  Bartletts,  the  fruit  coming  in  with  early 
peaches.     Later  pears  must  not  be  gathered  too  soon  or 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  305 

they  will  fail  to  ripen  with  high  flavor,  yet  at  the  same 
time  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  ripen  on  the  trees  or 
they  will  lose  color  and  flavor.  Winter  fruit  may  be  left 
on  the  trees  quite  late,  but  must  be  watched  closely  and 
not  allowed  to  drop  of  its  own  accord.  It  is  important, 
as  soon  as  gathered,  to  have  it  culled  and  packed  in  its 
proper  packages  and  stored  in  its  proper  storehouse, 
dark,  and  with  equable  temperature,  or  it  will  decay 
without  ripening.  It  certainly  makes  a  great  difference 
in  pears  when  they  be  gathered,  and  how  they  be  kept 
and  ripened  to  give  them  their  true  color,  aroma  and 
flavor  ;  give  me  a  fine  pear  and  I  think  I  can  tell  you 
how  it  has  been  handled  after  picking. 

A  pear  is  ready  to  be  gathered  when,  as  a  rule,  the 
seeds  are  brown  in  color,  and  it  separates  readily  from 
the  stem  on  being  lifted  up  at  an  angle  of  thirty  degrees 
above  its  horizontal.  In  picking,  see  that  your  men  are 
careful  not  to  disturb  the  fruit  spurs  of  the  tree,  or  next 
year's  crop  may  be  much  diminished.  This  is  very 
important  to  attend  to.  If  a  limb  breaks  partly  off, 
before  the  pears  are  ripe,  allow  it  to  remain  until  it 
matures  the  fruit  on  it,  then  cut  it  off,  as  you  should  do 
all  such  limbs,  after  picking  is  over. 

Pick  all  pears,  where  possible,  with  their  stems  on. 
Such  fruit  is,  in  every  way,  more  desirable  and  saleable. 
As  a  rule,  go  over  a  pear  tree  three  times,  at  each  picking 
20 


306  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

removing  such  as  are  fit  to  come  off.  On  an  average,  it 
will  require  about  ten  days  interval  between  the  first  and 
last  picking  ;  of  course  all  pears  must  be  hand-picked  and 
handled  like  eggs,  and  gently  placed  in  baskets,  and 
quietly  removed  to  the  culling  house,  where  they  are  to 
go  through  this  process  at  once.  Good  fruit  that  is 
thoroughly  culled  and  well  packed,  will  invariably  pay 
a  handsome  profit. 

Pick  pears  on  cool,  dry  days,  if  possible,  and,  with 
the  average  pear,  picking  a  little  early  improves  the 
keeping  quality,  aud  holding  it  a  little  later,  will  help 
the  aroma  and  flavor. 

CULLING   THE   FRUIT. 

Pears  must  be  culled  by  hand,  and  very  carefully. 
Grade  them  by  the  Fruit  Exchange  Standards,  if  they 
have  any.  Heretofore,  my  divisions  have  been  into 
extras,  primes,  culls  and  windfalls.  Sometimes  I  may  ship 
a  few  double  extras  in  small  crates  with  a  handle,  each 
pear  wrapped  in  tissue  paper.  This  is  a  wrinkle  in  pear 
shipping  that  often  pays  the  grower,  and  gladdens  the 
hearts  of  the  buyers  too.  Cull  the  windfalls,  ship  the 
best  at  once,  in  crates,  and  sell  the  culls  to  the  evapora- 
tors, or  evaporate  them  yourself.  Having  culled  the 
fruit,  commence  now  by  shipping  all  that  is  fit  to  go, 
having  put  it  in  its  proper  package.  As  the  culls  are 
ready,  sell   them  to  an   evaporator,  or  evaporate  them 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  307 

yourself,  and  make  the  refuse  into  cider  and  hog-feed. 
Now  you  have,  say,  double  extras,  extras  and  primes,  for 
market  shipment.  Put  them  in  baskets  and  set  them 
away  in  the  dark,  dry  room  of  your  detention  house. 
For  double  extras  and  extras,  you  should  have  drawers 
holding  one  bushel,  more  or  less,  and  these  drawers  in 
closets  with  doors.  Assort  all  pears  daily,  or,  every 
other  day,  as  they  are  ripening  rapidly  or  slowly.  The 
moment  you  detect  the  least  sign  of  fitness,  viz., 
rapid  coloring  and  slight  softening,  ship  them  at  once  and 
put  the  remainder  back  for  further  inspection.  This 
detention  house  may  be  a  granary,  second  story,  or  a 
building  for  the  purpose.  The  second  story  is  best  for 
pears.  All  such  houses  should  have  an  open  box  with 
lime  gently  air-slaking  all  the  time.  This  robs  the  air 
of  much  moisture,  and  the  dryer  your  detention  room 
the  better. 

COLD  STORAGE  OF  PEARS. 
By  cold  storage,  pears  may  be  kept  long  past  their 
proper  season,  and  put  on  the  market  when  the  glut  of 
the  variety  is  passed.  The  house  is  built  by  different 
patented  processes,  and  ice  is  used  to  keep  the  tempera- 
ture down  to  38°  Fahrenheit,  the  point  it  should  be  kept 
at ;  cold  storage  of  peaches  has  been  tried,  but  has  not 
paid  the  cost  ;  cold  storage  of  pears  has  been  carried  on 
successfully  for  several  years,  as  far  as  keeping  them 
well   preserved  is   concerned.     Individually,  I  think  the 


308  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

flavor  is  injured  and  the  refrigerated  pear  is  not  a  gastro- 
nomic success.  In  November,  I  don't  want  a  Bartlett  ; 
it  is  a  hot  weather  pear.  In  that  month  give  me  a 
Lawrence,  and  it  keeps  without  cold  storage.  The  pears 
are  packed  in  the  cold-house  by  rule,  and  if  care  is  not 
taken,  the  top  layer  will  decay  ;  the  hot  air  ascending. 
As  soon  as  removed  from  the  refrigerator  the  pear  must 
be  shipped  and  sold.  They  don't  stand  up  well.  As  a 
rule,  the  boxes,  to  make  sure,  after  having  been  taken 
from  the  refrigerator,  must  be  opened  and  culled  over. 
There  is  more  or  less  average  loss  from  decay. 
MARKETING  THE  CROP. 
Double  extra  pears  should  be  packed  in  one-third 
crates  with  a  handle  of  rope  or  leather  at  one  end,  and 
each  pear  wrapped  in  tissue  paper.  The  extra  care  will 
well  pay  the  grower.  Market  extras  in  the  regulation 
peach  baskets  with  covers,  as  the  best  package  now 
obtainable.  We  want  a  new  package  for  extra  and 
double-extra  pears  made  something  like  a  grape  basket 
with  a  handle.  Any  display  of  taste  and  refinement 
here,  will  come  back  with  large  returns.  The  new 
fruit  package,  the  ripe  fruit  carrier,  I  have  hopes  of, 
although  I  have  not  yet  examined  it.  It  will  hold  about 
one  hundred  large  peaches  or  pears,  each  wrapped  in 
tissue  paper  and  packed  in  its  own  individual  apartment. 
I  think  this  is  the  package  Mr.  Cochran  made  his  suc- 
cessful shipment  of  peaches  to  Europe  in,  last  year,  and 
it  doubtless  will  carry  ripe  pears  equally  well. 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  3O9 

Ship  primes  in  the  regulation  fruit  crate  of  the 
Peninsula.  Pears  in  transit  must  be  kept  out  of  the 
reach  of  thieves  and  vandals,  and  for  this  reason  the 
crate  is  better  than  the  open  basket  for  the  inferior 
qualities.  Sell  through  the  Delaware  Fruit  Exchange, 
if  possible.  Next,  sell  at  your  fruit  house,  or  at  your 
Rail  Road  Station.  If  unable  to  do  either  of  these 
things,  ship  to  the  best  market  you  can  hear  of  Never 
ship  a  car  load  or  large  quantities  at  once.  The  market 
is  sensitive  as  to  pears,  and  a  car  load  coming  at  once 
from  the  Peninsula,  especially,  to  even  a  large  city,  will 
dull  its  edge.  Ship,  say,  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  baskets 
or  crates  every  two  or  three  days.  I  am  speaking  now 
of  late  pears.  When  we  are  shipping  early  pears,  we 
must  watch  the  market,  and,  by  all  means,  get  them  in 
early,  before  Peninsula  peaches  and  northern  pears. 

EVAPORATING   THE   PEAR. 

The  process  of  evaporating  is  the  same  for  all  fruits, 
and  for  its  description  I  refer  the  reader  to  the  proper 
heading  in  the  part  of  this  book,  devoted  to  the  peach. 

The  market  for  evaporated  pears  has,  as  yet,  to  be 
made,  but  they  form  such  a  delicious  and  wholesome 
article  of  diet,  that  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  their 
speedy  popularity,  when  thrown  on  the  market  in  large 
quantities.  The  Bartlett  is,  doubtless,  the  best  of  all 
pears  to  evaporate.     The  Howell,  the  Duchess,  (when 


310  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

ripe,)  the  d'Anjou,  the  Lawrence,  the  Louise  bonne  de 
Jersey,  and  any  good  soft  pear  will  make  good  evaporated 
fruit.  The  pears  must  be  pared,  and  then  sliced  longitu- 
dinally or  across  into  about  four  to  six  slices,  and  placed 
upon  the  evaporator  trays.  As  to  the  time  it  takes,  and 
the  amount  of  fuel  required  for  pears,  in  comparison 
with  peaches,  authorities  differ.  Apples  are  easier  to 
evaporate  than  peaches,  and  a  Bartlett  pear,  it  appears 
to  me,  should  be  about  between  the  two  ;  a  little  more 
difficult  to  evaporate  than  the  apple,  and  a  little  easier 
than  the  peach.  The  Bartlett  pear  ought  to  evaporate 
in  from  twelve  to  eighteen  hours,  depending  on  the 
strength  of  the  fire.  Dor\'t  evaporate  pears  too  rapidly, 
or  the  edges  will  blacken  and  curl  up. 
CANNING  PEARS. 
The  process  of  canning  has  been  described  in  its 
proper  place  under  the  peach,  and  it  is  not  necessary  to 
again  refer  to  it  here.  In  canning  fruit,  we  merely 
destroy  the  bacteria  by  heat,  and  then  hermetically 
sealing  it,  we  prevent  their  proliferation,  and  so  long  as  it 
remains  air-tight,  it  must  remain  absolutely  unchanged 
and  unchangeable.  The  Bartlett  is  the  most  desirable 
pear  for  canning  purposes,  and  the  Howell  makes  the 
whitest  and  most  beautiful  fruit,  and  must  always  be  a 
favorite  among  those  following  the  business.  The 
Duchess  and  Lawrence  and  d'Anjou,  all  make  lovely 
fruit  when  hermetically  sealed,  and  must  be  sought  for 
wherever  the  business  is  carried  on. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  3II 

CONSERVES. 

As  with  peaches;  half  preserve  pears,  and  pack  them 
down  in  white  pulverized  sugar,  and  we  get  a  delicious 
conserve  that  will,  with  proper  care,  keep  for  an  indefinite 
time.  The  French  excel  in  such  dainties,  but  there  is  no 
reason  the  business  should  not  thrive  on  our  own 
peninsula,  and  some  of  our  people  given  to  such  work 
should  engage  in  their  extensive  manufacture.  There 
is  no  doubt  of  a  market  for  as  many  as  can  be  produced. 

WORK   FOR   EACH    MONTH   OF   THE   YEAR  IN  THE   FRUIT 
ORCHARD.  ^ 

I  am  indebted  to  Thomas  for  many  points  here 
given. 

JANUARY. 

Tread  the  snow  about  young  trees  to  drive  away 
mice.  Rub  the  trees  with  raw  liver  if  rabbits  become 
troublesome.  Drain  off  all  water  accumulating  about 
trees.  You  may  prune  hardy  trees,  covering  the  wounds 
with  copal  varnish,  or  paint,  or  wax  ;  cut  grafts  and  pack 
them  away  in  a  celler  in  damp  sand  or  saw  dust.  Don't 
let  stock  of  any  kind  get  into  the  orchard. 

If  you  want  trees  for  spring  planting,  look  around 
for  them,  and  determine  what  you  are  going  to  plant. 
Let  nurserymen  prepare  for  spring,  getting  packing 
materials,    etc.     Nurserymen    may    now    graft    seedling 


312  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

pears  for  standards,  and,  when  finished,  pack  them  away 
in  moist  sand  or  saw  dust  until  spring  planting-time  ;  do 
mulching  that  has  not  been  done  earlier.  Think  over 
and  mature  your  spring  plans. 

FEBRUARY. 

Do  now  anything  you  should  have  done  in  January, 
as  everything  is  still  dormant.  Examine,  all  trees  for 
caterpillar  nests,  and  cut  them  all  off  and  burn  them, 
and  rub  off  all  suspicious  spots  on  the  branches  of  the 
trees.  You  may  top-dress  orchards  now  if  you  don't 
intend  to  break  them  up  in  the  spring.  Use  the  rules 
directed  for  fertilizing.  Make  labels,  stakes,  ladders, 
crates,  boxes,  etc. 

MARCH. 

Use  tree  washes.  Finish  all  February  work  incom- 
pleted. Sow  clover  in  your  orchard  if  you  propose  to  do 
it  this  spring.  Graft  the  apple,  the  cherry,  the  pear. 
Shorten  back  trees,  now  or  early  in  April.  Cut  back  your 
young  trees  planted  the  previous  autumn,  and  prune 
them  ready  for  their  first  year's  orchard  growth.  Plough 
fruit  orchards  if  ground  is  fit. 

APRIL. 

Use  tree  washes.  Plant  all  trees,  and  get  at  it  by  the 
tenth  of  the  month  sure,  if  possible.  Set  out  all  cuttings. 
Plant  all  fruit  tree  seeds,  if  they  are  to  be  transplanted 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  313 

from  sprouting  beds  of  last  fall.  Take  those  first  which 
show  evidence  of  sprouting.  Peach  stones  start  later  than 
the  stones  of  other  fruits,  and  it  is  well  to  remember 
this  point.  Harrow  and  cultivate  fruit  orchards  after 
ploughing.  Spade  in  winter  mulching,  or  better, fork  it  in, 
and  level  any  mice  hills  erected  around  trees  the  previous 
autumn.  Never  cut  the  shoots  of  a  young  tree  back 
after  the  buds  have  swelled  in  the  spring.  Stake  up 
crooked  trees.     Kill  all  orchard  caterpillars  found. 

MAY. 

Use  tree  washes.  Rub  off  all  buds  coming  below 
the  new  bud  on  budded  trees.  Give  quince,  and  other 
trees  needing  it,  their  hot  weather  mulching.  May  hand 
thin  some  fruit.  Kill  all  orchard  caterpillars  found,  com- 
mence to  destroy  curculio,  and  examine  for  pear  tree 
borers  and  apple  tree  borers  and  quince  borers,  and 
watch  well  from  this  time  out,  dwarf  pear  trees,  when 
not  planted  below  the  quince  junction.  Continue  culti- 
vation of  orchards.  Look  out  for  pear-slug  on  the 
Peninsula  and  destroy  it  by  some  of  the  means  given. 

JUNE. 
Use  tree  washes.  Build  fires  in  orchards  hot  nights. 
Do  all  things  neglected  or  unfinished  from  May.  Watch 
pear-slug,  curculio  and  all  such  pests.  Destroy  aphides. 
Rub  off  supernumerary  shoots  on  young  fruit  trees. 
Look  well  for  the   evidences  of  peach  and   pear  borers. 


314  THE   CULTIVAVION   OF   THE 

Hand-thin  fruit.  Look  well  to  evidences  of  pear-blight 
coming.  Mulch  cherry,  quince  and  chestnut  trees,  etc. 
Bud  peach  trees  and  other  trees,  if  desirable. 

JULY. 
Use  tree  washes.  Build  fires  in  orchards  hot  nights. 
Stop  orchard  cultivation  on  the  Peninsula,  as  a  rule. 
Mulch  all  young  trees  that  cannot  be  cultivated.  Hand- 
thin  fruit  and  rub  off  supernumerary  shoots  on  young 
trees.  Bud  all  trees  at  any  time  now.  Look  out  for 
second  crop  of  pear  slug,  and  watch  all  borers.  Watch 
for  pear  and  quince  blight,  etc.,  and  cut  it  away  and 
burn  it.  Gather  early  apples,  pears,  and  peaches  and 
other  early  fruits. 

AUGUST. 

Summer  prune  trees.  Pinch  off  supernumerary 
shoots.  Mulch  trees  suffering  from  hot  weather.  Watch 
for  insects,  grubs,  etc.,  and  destroy  them.  Build  moth  fires 
in  orchards  hot  nights.  Cut  out  pear  blight  and  use  the 
tree  washes.  Continue  budding.  Watch  budded  trees 
and  cut  off  ties,  etc.     Continue  gathering  fruit. 

SEPTEMBER. 
Summer  prune  trees.  Continue  gathering  fruit  and 
budding  trees,  and  cutting  off  ties,  etc.  You  may 
plough  ground  for  setting  out  new  orchards  in  Novem- 
ber. Commence  to  house  pears  for  ripening,  and  apples, 
too.     You  may  top  dress  orchards. 


PEACH  AND  THE  PEAR.  315 

OCTOBER. 

Attend  to  your  housed  fruit  and  the  shipping  of  it. 
Plant  peach  pits.  Continue  gathering  fruit  and  housing 
pears  and  apples,  etc.  You  may  top  dress  orchards. 
Prepare  ground  for  young  orchards. 

NOVEMBER. 

Plant  your  young  orchards,  and  don't  begin  later 
than  the  end  of  the  first  week.  Heel  in  all  stock  you 
can't  plant.  Make  cuttings  for  quinces,  etc.,  and  put 
them  away  in  moist  moss,  or  heel  them  in  the  ground. 
Attend  to  your  housed  fruit  and  the  shipping  of  it. 

DECEMBER. 

Complete  all  November  work.  Cut  grafts  and  put 
them  away.  Winter-mulch  trees.  Put  away  all  tools, 
etc.     Attend  to  housed  fruit  and  the  shipping  of  it. 

Read  over  January  directions. 


Chapter  XVII 


In  order  to  test  the  opinions  of  pear  growers,  I  sent 
out  the  following  questions,  and  received  the  following 
series  of  answers,  which  will  be  found  very  interesting, 
and  very  useful,  to  those  engaged  in  the  business  of 
growing  this  luscious  fruit.  As  each  question  will  be 
numbered,  and  each  answer  numbered  to  correspond  to 
the  question,  no  trouble  will  be  found  in  reading  them 
understandingly. 

Question  i.  Give  the  best  list  for  profit  of  an 
orchard  of  one  thousand  pear  trees  for  the  Delaware  and 
Chesapeake  Peninsula. 

Question  2.  Do  you  prefer  Standards  or  Dwarfs,  and 
please  give  your  reasons  for  the  preference  ? 

Question  3.  What  is  the  best  soil  for  pear  trees, 
also  best  situation  as  to  shelter,  hill,  valley,  etc.  ? 

Question  4.  What  is  the  average  life  of  a  Peninsula 
Standard  Pear  orchard,  and  what  is  the  average  life  of  a 
Dwarf  orchard  ? 

Question  5.     When,    in   your    opinion,  is    the   pear 


3l8  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

crop  most  frequently  injured  by  frost  ?     Fall,  Winter  or 
Spring  ? 

Question  6.  Does  very  low  temperature  in  Winter 
kill  the  pear  buds  ?     If  so,  how  low  ? 

Question  7.  Do  you  plough  early,  or  late,  in  the 
Spring  ?  How  deep,  how  often,  and  what  is  your  method 
of  cultivating  after  one  ploughing  ? 

Question  8.  What  fertilizers  do  you  use,  and  when, 
and  in  what  quantity,  and  how  do  you  apply  them  ? 

Question  9,  When  and  how  do  you  prune  the  trees, 
and  do  you  ever  hand-thin  the  fruit  ?  If  so,  with  what 
result  ? 

Question  10.  What,  in  your  opinion,  causes  pear 
blight,  and  how  do  you  treat  it  ? 

Question  11.  Do  you  worm  your  pear  trees  ?  If  so, 
when  and  how  ? 

Question  12.  Do  you  have  slug  ?  If  so,  does  it 
permanently  injure  the  trees  ?  What  remedies  do  you 
use  for  it  ? 

Question  13.     Does  Curculio  injure  Peninsula  pears  ? 

Question  14.  Do  you  see  any  new  enemies,  lately, 
injuring  the  Pear  tree  or  fruit  ? 

Question  15.  What  is  your  idea  of  cold  storage  for 
pears  ?  Does  it  pay,  and  what  effect  has  it  on  the  flavor 
of  the  fruit  ? 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  3I9 

Question  16.  Give  your  idea  of  the  best  way  to 
gather,  hold,  and  market  the  fruit,  and  the  best  packages 
in  which  to  ship  it. 

Question  17.  Which  is  the  best  pear  to  evaporate? 
The  second  best,  the  third  best  and  the  fourth  best  ?  Do 
pears  or  peaches  evaporate  the  easiest  ? 

Question  18.  Has  pear-growing  been  profitable 
with  you  ? 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM    GROWER.  NO.   I. 

Question  i.  LeConte  Standard,  Kieffer  Standard, 
Bartlett  Standard,  Clapp's  Favorite  Standard,  Louise 
bonne  de  Jersey  Standard,  Washington  Standard, 
Beurre  Diel  Standard  ;  those  are  Standard  ;  will  put  the 
Dwarfs  on  the  other  page. 

Question  2.  Dwarfs,  I  prefer,  as  they  are  always 
sure  to  bear,  and  will  not  occupy  as  much  land  as  the 
Standard. 

Question  3.  Stiff  loam  ;  never  plant  in  sandy  land, 
or  in  gravel,  or  on  side  of  a  hill.     Take  flat  land. 

Question  4.  Thirty  years  for  Standard,  twenty  for 
Dwarfs,  and  twenty-five  to  thirty  for  Dwarf  if  you  cut 
the  bark  above  the  union  as  you  plant  them,  so  as  to 
make  them  throw  out  hair-roots. 

Question  5.     Spring. 


320  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  6.  I  have  had  them  to  stand  5°  below  zero, 
cannot  stand  it  long  ;  never  had  them  killed  in  the 
winter  ;  I  have  had  them  injured  some. 

Question  7.  Plough  as  early  in  Spring  as  the  land 
will  permit,  from  3  to  4  inches.  Plough  twice  a  year  till 
the  orchard  is  4  years  old,  and  plant  in  Dwarf,  corn,  an^ 
cultivate  three  times  ;  five  years  old,  plough  once,  and 
harrow  and  cultivate  once  ;  six  years  old,  plough  once, 
and  harrow,  and  let  it  go. 

Question  8.  Kainit,  300  lbs.  broadcast,  after  fruit 
comes  off,  and  plough  down  in  Spring. 

Question  9.  In  fall,  as  soon  as  leaf  falls  ;  cut  back 
one-half  every  year.  Hand-thin  fruit  sometimes  ;  it  does 
not  pay.  Cut  back  one-half  until  the  orchard  is  five  or 
six  years  old,  or  according  to  the  growth. 

Question  10.  Excess  of  growth  will  cause  sap- 
blight,  or  putting  manure  on  your  orchard.  Cut  it  three 
inches  below  the  blight,  and  burn  the  blighted  wood. 
Do  not  let  it  lay  in  your  orchard.  Body-blight  is  more 
serious. 

Question  11.  Late  in  fall,  with  knife  and  hoes.  It 
is  seldom  ever  regarded,  only  in  light  land.  In  heavy 
land  you  never  will  have  any  worms. 

Question  12.  Sometimes  eats  leaves  of  the  trees 
and  kills  fruit.    *Spread  rotten  potatoes  under  the  trees, 

Bad  advice.     |.   J.   B. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  321 

or  rotten  apples  ;  the  slug  will  eat  of  them  and  let  the 
tree  alone  ;  or  when  the  dew  is  on  the  leaves,  sow  on 
them  air  slaked  lime. 

Question  13.  Very  much.  They  injure  the  fruit  by 
stinging  the  pear.  No  remedy,  only  shaking  the  trees 
late  in  the  evening,  for  about  two  weeks,  when  the  fruit 
is  young. 

Question  14.     None. 

Question  15.  It  will  pay  if  pains  are  taken  in 
gathering  the  fruit  ;  flavor  is  better,  if  not  picked  too 
green. 

Question  16.  Pick  one  by  one  as  they  get  ripe.  Go 
over  your  trees  twice  a  week,  ship  as  soon  as  you  gather, 
if  you  can  get  a  fair  price  ;  ship  in  crates  ;  if  you  hold 
them,  keep  them  in  a  cold  place,  and  very  dark  ;  do  not 
let  the  light  in. 

Question  17.     No  experience  in  drying  pears. 

Part  of  Questio7i  (i).  Dwarf,  Duchess,  Stevens 
Genesee,  Belle  Lucrative,  Beurre  Bosc,  Glout  Morceau. 
More  monej'  in  Duchess  than  any  pear  grown. 

Question  18.  Is  pear-growing  profitable  with  you.? 
I  have  certainly  made  money  out  of  pears.  In  fourteen 
years  I  never  failed  to  raise  a  crop.  I  have  2500  trees. 
Keep  manure,  such  as  barn-yard  manure  or  stable  manure, 
out  of  your  pear  orchard  ;  it  will  cause  blight.  Select 
21 


322  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

a  heavy  loam  and  flat  land  for  your  orchard,  and  for 
Dwarfs,  plant  six  inches  below  the  union  ;  cut  the  bark 
heavy  above  the  union  before  planting  ;  do  not  mix  your 
Standard  with  your  Dwarf  in  planting  ;  plant  your  Dwarf 
full  ten  feet  apart  each  way  ;  Standard,  fully  twenty  feet. 
If  you  mix  in  planting,  the  Standard  will  smother  out 
the  Dwarf ;  do  not  plant  too  many  varieties. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,    NO.   2. 

Question  i.  I  have  not  at  command,  nor  have  I  the 
ability  or  time  to  answer  in  a  satisfactory  way. 

Question  2.  Standards  have  done  best  with  me. 
The  fact  that  my  Dwarfs  break  off  at  the  point  where 
the  quince  and  pear  meet,  when  heavily  loaded  with 
fruit,  or  during  high  winds,  is  a  serious  objection.  Some 
varieties  seem  to  die  young  on  quinces.  Such  is  the 
case  with  Kieffer. 

Question  3.  An  alluvial  soil  with  open  sub-soil,  and 
elevation  with  western  exposure.  Valleys  are  an 
objection  for  all  fruit  trees  that  are  liable  to  be  killed  by 
late  frosts. 

Question  4.  Cannot  tell,  as  my  Standards  and 
Dwarfs  are  all  alive  that  I  have  planted  since  I  am  in  the 
State,  which  is  nineteen  years,  and  show  no  signs  of 
giving  way. 

Question  5.     Spring,  by  late  frost  and  eastern  rain. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  323 

Question  6.  I  do  not  know  that  pears  will  kill, 
unless  trees  are  killed  by  low  temperature,  nor  do  I 
know  how  low. 

Question  7.  First  of  May.  Eight  inches.  All 
orchards  should  be  ploughed  that  depth  ;  once  is  suf- 
ficient, I  harrow  across  the  balance.  I  go  over  with 
duck  bills  and  flukes  ;  once  a  week  is  not  too  often,  and 
as  long  as  you  can  get  under  the  tree. 

Question  8.  Bone  and  potash,  either  Fall  or  Spring. 
From  four  to  six  hundred  pounds  per  acre.  If  I  get  my 
potash  from  Kainit,  I  throw  from  wagon  with  shovel,  but 
if  I  use  a  more  concentrated  form,  it  must  be  spread 
broadcast,  by  hand,  or  with  spreaders  made  for  the 
purpose. 

Question  9.  Springs  just  before  they  bloom.  If 
trees  are  pruned  just  before  they  bloom,  a  careful  pruner 
will  cut  out  enough  bearing  wood  so  that  the  remaining 
fruit  will  mature. 

Question  10.  Too  much  lime  and  pound  manure. 
Fertilizer  described  in  No.  8,  will  check  it. 

Question  11.     No. 

Question  12.  Yes  ;  no  ;  road  dust,  air  slaked  lime 
or  plaster,  either  will  answer  to  kill  them. 

Question  13.     No. 


324  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Question  14.  I  have  seen  Kieffer  pears,  almost 
matured  in  New  Jersey,  punctured  by  an  insect  ;  it  has 
not  yet  reached  us  to  my  knowledge.  This  is  the  first 
year  it  has  been  noticed,  I  am  told.     It  must  be  new. 

Question  15.  In  my  opinion  it  is  necessary  in  order 
to  save  them  in  the  gluts.  I  have  seen  Bartletts  sell  for 
30  cents  in  the  gluts,  and  those  kept  in  cold  storage  sold 
for  $1.50  per  basket  in  November.  The  effect  is  scarcely 
noticeable. 

Question  16.  Hand  picking.  Hold,  in  a  retarding 
house  all  fruits  that  are  not  sold  by  auction  at  home. 
They  should  be  stored  in  a  cooling  house,  reported  in 
the  city  and  sold  by  order.  The  §  basket  thus  far  is  the 
best. 

Question  17.  The  Bartlett  has  proved  best  for  us. 
The  next  is  a  sugar  pear,  a  native  of  Delaware.  The 
difference,  if  any,  is  very  slight.  As  I  have  said  before, 
my  experience  is  so  limited  on  pears  that  I  cannot  say 
anything  to  benefit  you,  and  you  will  have  to  excuse  me 
with  this. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  3. 

Question  i.     Bartletts  all  the  time. 

Question  2.  Standards.  Because  there  are  only  five 
varieties  that  succeed  as  Dwarfs,  and  they  come  in  bear- 
ing but  little  sooner  than  Standards,  and  are  very  liable 
to  break  off  where  the  pear  and  quince  unite. 


PEACH    AND    THE   PEAR.  325 

Question  3,  Sandy  loam,  with  clay  and  sand  mixed, 
for  sub-soil.  Would  plant  on  hill  every  time,  as  you  are 
less  liable  to  frost. 

Question  4.     I  am  unable  to  answer. 

Question  5.  In  the  spring  at  or  about  time  of 
blossoming. 

Question  6.  I  don't  think  they  are  scarcely  ever 
killed  in  winter. 

Question  7.  I  usually  plough  about  June  first  and 
then  cultivate  enough  to  keep  the  soil  loose  and  free 
from  weeds. 

Question  8.  Kainit  and  bone  meal,  in  as  large 
quantities  as  I  am  able.  Don't  think  that  1,500  lbs.  of 
Bone  Meal  and  500  lbs.  of  Kainit  per  acre  would  work 
any  injury. 

Question  9.  I  pruned  my  trees  severely  the  first 
two  years,  until  I  got  them  headed  and  started  to  suit. 
After  that  only  enough  to  keep  in  good  shape  and  open 
to  the  sun. 

Question  10.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  fungus,  and  my 
treatment  is  to  watch  closely  during  the  warm  season 
and  remove  all  blight,  promptly,  from  12  to  18  inches  be- 
low every  sign  of  the  disease. 

Question  11.     No  answer. 

Question  12.  Yes.  If  not  killed  they  will  kill  the 
trees.     I  use  "London  Purple." 


326  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  13.     Yes,  very  much. 

Question  14.  The  fruit  was  badly  injured  this  year, 
from  a  fungus,  causing  it  to  be  badly  specked  all  over ; 
especially  Bartletts. 

Question  15.  Of  my  own  knowledge  I  cannot  an- 
swer. 

Question  16.     No  answer. 

Question  17.  (i)  Bartlett.  (2)  Beurre  d'Anjou. 
Peaches  evaporate  much  easier  than  pears. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  4. 

Question  i.  Standard,  600  Bartlett,  300  Lawrence, 
100  Kieffer.     Dwarfs,  500  Bartlett,  500  Duchess. 

Question  2.  I  prefer  Dwarfs  because  they  are  larger 
and  less  liable  to  blight,  except  Lawrence  and  Kieffer, 
those  as  Standards, 

Question  3.  I  would  take  loam  or  sandy  soil  and  a 
northern  slope. 

Question  4,  We  have  the  Standard  and  the  Dwarfs 
14  years  old,  and  they  are  doing  well  at  this  time. 

Question  5.     Spring. 

Question  6.  Do  not  think  that  will  hurt  them  with- 
out killing  the  tree. 

Question  7.  Plough  early  in  Spring  ;  2.^  in.  is  plenty 
deep.     Cultivate,  after  one  ploughing,  up  to  the  loth  or 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  32/ 

15th  of  June,  then  stop,  grass  or  no  grass,  weeds  or  no 
weeds. 

Question  8.  Feed  the  trees  with  the  best  phosphate 
you  can  get  ;  400  lbs.  per  acre,  in  the  spring,  after  plough- 
ing. 

Question  9.  I  would  shorten  the  growth  one-half 
each  year,  for  the  first  four  years,  then  be  guided  by  the 
condition  of  the  trees.  It  would  be  quite  a  job  to  thin 
the  fruit  on  a  thousand  trees,  but  believe  it  would  pay. 

Question  10.  I  think  that  heavy  winds  are  a  great 
help  to  the  blighting  of  trees,  as  it  stops  the  flow  of 
sap. 

Question  11.     Never  worm  any. 

Question  12.  It  stops  the  growth  of  the  wood  for 
the  next  crop.  I  found  that  lime,  dry,  was  the  best 
thing  for  them,  put  on  when  the  dew  was  on. 

Question     13.     Do  not  know. 

Question   14.     Not  to  my  knowledge. 

Question  15.  I  believe  it  pays,  and  gives  the  fruit  a 
better  flavor,  but  I  am  not  speaking  of  ice  refrigerating. 
I  know  nothing  about  that. 

Question  16.  Gather  about  ten  days  before  you 
want  it  for  market,  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place,  ship  in 
crates  or  baskets. 


328  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  17.  Bartlett  first,  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey- 
second,  Lawrence  third,  Duchess  fourth.  Peaches 
easiest. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM    GROWER,    NO.  5. 

Question  i.     Duchess. 

Question  2.     Standard. 

Question  3.     Best  land  for  corn. 

Question  4.  Standards  many  years.  Dwarfs  no 
account. 

Question   5.     Spring,  in  blossom. 

Question  6.     No. 

Question  7.  Plough  shallow  in  Fall.  Harrow  in 
Spring. 

Question  8.  Bone  and  Potash. 

Question  9.  No  pruning. 

Question  10.  Question  too  hard. 

Question  11.  No  answer. 

Question  12.  No  answer. 

Question  13.  Fall  ploughing  kills  curculio. 

Question  14.  No  answer. 

Question  15.  No  answer. 

Question  16.  No  answer. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  329 

Question  17.     Duchess. 

Is  pear  culture  profitable  with  you  ?     No. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED   FROM  GROWER,  NO.  6. 

Question  i.  Bartlett,  Lawrence,  Early  Sugar,  Bell 
Pear,  for  Standards.     For  Dwarf,  Duchess. 

Question  2,  Standards,  they  come  into  bearing 
nearly  as  soon  as  dwarfs,  and  they  last  so  much  longer. 

Question  3.  Light,  loamy  soil,  (not  too  sandy  or 
gravelly,)  the  ground  nearly  level,  just  rolling  enough  to 
carry  the  water  off. 

Question  4.  Standard.  I  have  one  25  years  old. 
The  Dwarf  orchard  planted  at  same  time  is  gone  some 
eight  years. 

Question  5.     No  answer. 

Question  6.     No  answer. 

Question  7.  The  early  Sugar  and  Bell  pears  have 
paid  me  better  than  any  other  pear,  for  the  last  eight 
years.  Two  years  ago  I  budded  a  lot  of  Lawrence  with 
the  Sugar,  after  they  were  planted  out  two  years. 

Question  8.  Commercial  fertilizer  in  quantity  of 
500  lbs  to  the  acre. 

Question  9.  20th  June  I  trim  and  cut  back  one-half 
of  this  year's  growth.    I  have  hand-thinned  fruit  say  one- 


330  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

half,  and  the  balance  made  as  much  afterward  in 
increased  size  of  fruit  as  it  would  have  made  if  not 
thinned. 

Question  lo.     No  answer. 

Question  II.     No  answer. 

Question  12.  I  have  the  slug.  I  think  it  would 
permanently  injure  the  trees  if  not  destroyed.  I  use 
Paris  Green  in  water. 

Question  13.     I  think  not. 

Question  14.     I  have  not. 

Question  15.     No  answer. 

Question  16.  Pick  just  before  they  are  ripe  when 
they  come  from  the  stem,  easily.  I  ship  in  boxes  but 
cannot  say  which  pays  the  best  to  ship  in. 

Question  17.  Bartlett  first,  Duchess  second,  Law- 
rence third.  Is  pear  growing  profitable  with  you  ?  Pears 
have  paid  me  well,  what  few  I  have.  The  early  pears 
the  best. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED    FROM   GROWER,  NO-/. 

Question  i.  My  trees  in  bearing,  all  Dwarfs,  are: 
Howell's,  Red  Harvest,  Lawrence,  Buffum,  Bartlett, 
Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Duchess,  and  Vicar  of  Wink- 
field.  They  were  selected  for  me  by  a  Pennsylvania 
Nurseryman,  before  I  had  any  experience.     I  value  the 


PEACH   AND   THE    PEAR.  33I 

Bartlett,  Duchess,  Lawrence,  Howell,  Buffum  and  Vicar 
very  highly.  The  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey  needs  hand- 
thinning  to  give  good  fruit.  While  I  think  three  or  four 
varieties  might  be  added  to  my  list  to  adv^antage,  still  I 
think  it  an  excellent  one.  The  Lawrence  is  a  splendid 
pear  and  I  value  my  Vicar  very  highly. 

Question  2.  Have  had  scarcely  any  experience  with 
Standards.  My  little  orchard  planted  about  1873,  some 
56  trees,  all  Dwarfs,  commenced  to  bear  in  three  years, 
and  have  given  me,  almost  uniformly,  good  crops  ever 
since.  Some  years  a  few  trees  have  rested,  but  with  8 
varieties  I  have  always  had  plenty  of  good  fruit,  I 
believe  most  tho7-oiighly  in  Dwarfs,  my  faith  being  based 
upon  my  experience  with  my  own  success.  They  must 
be  well  fed,  the  trees  must  be  carefully  selected.  They 
require  careful  pruning  and  cultivation. 

Question  3.  My  soil  is  a  heavy  upland  clay,  but 
made  rich  by  various  fertilizers.  Stable  manure, 
(composted,)  lime,  potash,  salt,  phosphate,  bone  and 
compost  made  from  kitchen  garbage,  sod,  privy  water, 
lime,  salt,  etc.  I  have  no  experience  with  any  other 
kind  of  soil,  personally  ;  my  location  is  very  much 
exposed.     No  protection  from  our  fierce  winter  winds. 

Question  4.  My  Dwarfs  were  three  years  old, 
planted,  I  think,  1873.  Have  borne,  as  stated,  with 
little  intermission  for  ten  years,  and  most  of  them  are 
vigorous  and  in  good  condition  to-day,  promising  well 


332  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

for  many  years  to  come.  I  have  lost  one  tree  by  disease, 
and  then  I  was  away  from  home  for  ten  months.  I  think 
I'd  have  saved  it,  had  I  been  at  home. 

Question  5.  Am  not  competent  to  give  an  opinion. 
Judging  from  my  own  experience  with  severe  winters, 
since  my  trees  have  been  in  bearing,  with  high  cultiva- 
tion and  proper  pruning,  there  is  little  to  be  feared  from 
frost  in  this  locality,  at  least,  from  severe  winters,  as  I 
have  had  abundant  crops  after  such. 

Question  6.  Last  winter,  84-85,  was  a  very  severe 
one.  All  my  trees  bore  good  crops  this  season,  except 
the  Lawrence,  which  had  been  full  the  two  preceding 
years.  Hence,  I  repeat  that,  with  trees  properly  cared 
for,  fear  of  frost  should  not  deter  any  one  from  growing 
this  magnificent  fruit. 

Question  7.  My  trees  are  planted  8x12.  Hence, 
could  only  plough  the  first  two  or  three  years.  Have 
dug  (spaded)  the  ground  once  per  year,  in  the  Spring, 
and  occasionally,  again  in  the  Fall,  and  kept  weeds  down 
during  summer  with  hoe  or  hand  cultivator.  Dig  as 
soon  as  ground  is  dry  enough  in  Spring ;  spade  deep. 
This  would  not  pay  on  a  large  scale,  but  not  having  the 
experience,  cannot  recommend  a  substitute  plan.  But 
I  am  well  convinced  that  pear  trees  require,  or  are  better 
to  have,  the  soil  thoroughly  worked,  at  least,  once  per 
year.     If  in  the  Fall,  then  after  growth  has  ceased. 


PEACH   AND   THE    PEAR.  333 

Question  8.  As  stated,  have  used  stable  manure 
composted.  (If  applied  fresh,  would  put  it  on  in  the  Fall 
or  winter.  Lime,  Phosphates,  Potash,  Kainit,  Bone,  Salt, 
and  a  mixed  compost.  I  regard  the  lime  in  moderate 
quantities  wtth  Bone  and  Potash  as  requisites.  Would 
use  wood  ashes  freely  if  I  could  obtain  them.  Bone,  at 
the  rate  of  looo  lbs.  to  acre,  yearly.  Potash,  a  pint  to  a 
quart  to  each  tree.  Am  not  positive  as  to  correct 
quantities  of  potash.    Think  Fall  best  time  on  the  whole. 

Question  9.  I  prune  largely  in  the  Spring,  but  have 
made  it  a  rule  to  take  out  a  superfluous  limb  at  almost 
any  time  when  noticed.  Believe  Spring  is  the  best  time 
to  prune.  I  varnish  all  wounds  of  any  size  with  copal 
and  alcohol.  I  have  not  hand-thinned  fruit  sufficiently 
to  speak  of  results,  but  am  of  opinion  that  it  will  pay 
well,  both  for  the  sake  of  size  and  quality  of  fruit,  and 
for  the  health  of  the  tree.  I  think  it  especially  necessary 
for  Howell  and  Vicars.  The  former,  on  quince  stock,  at 
least,  will  injure  themselves  on  rich  ground,  by  large 
yearly  crops.  Keep  ground  rich  and  they  outgrow  the 
cutting  soon. 

Question  10.  Have  no  theory.  I  apply  the  saw 
promptly  at  first  appearance,  far  down  below  the  diseased 
portion  of  the  limb,  making  sure  to  get  well  below  any 
spots  of  blighted  bark,  even.  Have  never  lost  but  one 
tree  from  blight,  and  it  died  when  I  was  away  ten 
months,  as  stated.     Some  of  the  most  vigorous  trees  in 


334  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

my  orchard  now,  were  blighted  years  ago,  and  treated 
as  above.  I  thoroughly  protect  the  wounds  with 
varnish. 

Question  ii.  Have  suffered  very  little  from  worms 
in  pear  trees.  If  found,  I  waste  no  time  before  destroy- 
ing them.  I  think  I  have  only  found  them  in  one  or  two 
trees. 

Question  12.  When  trees  were  young,  I  had  to 
combat  the  slug  each  season,  but  after  three  or  four  years 
the  trees  became  too  vigorous  to  be  injured  by  them.  I 
used  any  dust,  powdered  lime  or  coal  ashes,  sifted  or 
thrown  over  the  trees.  If  allowed  to  strip  the  trees  of 
leaves  when  young,  think  they  would  be  greatly  injured 
thereby. 

Question  13.  It  is  the  worst  enemy  I  have  to  con- 
tend against.  They  sting  my  fruit  badly.  I  think  it 
would  pay  to  set  lamps  over  tar,  or  some  sticky  sub- 
stance, at  night,  during  the  season  when  they  deposit 
their  eggs.  Would  be  thankful  for  any  prophylactic 
treatment  you  may  be  able  to  suggest. 

Question  14.     None  noticed  in  my  orchard. 

Question  15.  I  have  no  experience.  But  if  the 
Bartlett  could  be  kept  in  good  condition  until  our  peach 
"  glut"  is  over,  I  think  it  would  pay  here  in  Delaware. 

Question  16.  Having  used  the  greater  part  of  my 
fruit  for  table,  in  canning  and  drying,  I  have  little  ex- 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  335 

perience.  I  have  sold,  for  two  years,  our  surplus  fruit  in 
Wilmington  market,  and  at  the  orchard,  to  our  citizens 
at  good  prices.  Pears  should  be  gathered  as  they  mature, 
as  soon  as  they  will  part  from  the  twig  when  yet  hard, 
and  stored  on  shelves  in  thin  layers,  in  dry  cool  fruit- 
room  or  cellar. 

Question  17.  I  think  the  Bartlett  and  Duchess  have 
the  finest  flavor  when  evaporated.  The  Howell  evapo- 
rates nicely  but  has  not  so  fine  a  flavor.  No  experience 
in  evaporating  peaches.  Dwarfs  need  to  be  well 
supported  for  several  years  to  prevent  heavy  wind- 
storms from  breaking  them  off  at  the  point  of  union 
between  the  pear  stock  and  quince.  I  set  mine  so  that 
the  point  of  union  was  four  inches  under  ground,  and 
adding  fertilizers  and  composts,  they  are,  probably, 
now  six  inches  under  ground.  The  greater  part  of  my 
trees  are  rooted  from  the  pear  stock,  making  them  in 
part  standard  ;  they  should  always  be  set  as  above  to 
secure  this  result.  Am  sorry  not  to  be  able  to  answer 
more  reliably  and  concisely. 

Is  pear  growing  profitable  with  you  ?  Pear  growing 
has  paid  us  well.  My  experience  leads  me  to  believe, 
that,  had  I  purchased  a  good  farm  in  Delaware,  Mary- 
land or  Virginia,  twenty  years  since,  and  planted  in 
Standard  and  Dwarf  pears,  I  should  have  made  a  hand- 
some pecuniary  success  of  it. 


336  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  8. 

Question  i.  Beurre,  Giffard,  Manning's  Elizabeth, 
Bartlett,  Lawrence,  same  do  well  as  Dwarfs. 

Question  2.  I  prefer  the  two  together,  4000  on  ten 
acres.  On  ten  acres  plant  1000  Standard  and  3000 
Dwarfs.  Standards  twenty  feet  apart,  Dwarfs  ten  feet 
between. 

Question  3.  Good,  sandy  land,  highly  improved,  not 
too  much  in  valley.     If  too  low,  liable  to  blight. 

Question  4.  No  one  knows.  I  suppose  many  penin- 
sula pear  trees  are  one  hundred  years  old  ;  I  know  Dwarf 
Bartletts  thirty  years  old,  doing  well  now. 

Question  5.     Spring. 

Question  6.  As  many  pear  orchards  do  well  in 
New  England,  suppose  the  trees  are  not  injured  by  cold 
weather. 

Question  7.  Early  in  Spring  ;  then  cultivate  often 
through  season.  This  for  young  trees,  up  to  ten  years 
of  age  ;  after  that,  I  believe,  they  should  not  be  ploughed 
so  much. 

Question  8.  Stable  manure,  bone  meal,  kainit  and 
lime. 

Question  9.  Standards  ;  cut  out  water  spromts. 
Dwarfs  ;  head  back  ^  in  August.  Never  hand-thin  ;  two 
long  a  job  for  me. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  33/ 

Question  lo.  Give  it  up,  as  all  others  have  done. 
Cut  off  branch  and  burn  it  at  once. 

Question  ii.  No. 

Question  12.  Yes.     Dust  the  trees. 

Question  13.  Yes,  very  much. 

Question  14.  No. 

Question  15.  Cannot  say.  Here  it  cannot  be  done 
to  profit.     Too  many  rot,  it  hurts  the  flavor. 

Question  16.  Gather  when  pears  (sound  ones)  begin 
to  drop  ;  it  does  not  hurt  them  to  drop.  Ship  in  peach 
baskets. 

Question  17.  ist  Bartlett,  2nd  ditto,  3d  ditto,  4th 
ditto ;  all  other  kinds  are  hard  to  sell. 

Is  pear-growing  profitable  with  you  }  Ever  since 
my  orchard  has  been  in  bearing  it  has  paid  better  (much 
better)  than  peaches. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,  NO.  9. 

Question  i.  Bartlett  and  Lawrence  for  Standards ; 
Duchess  for  Dwarfs. 

Question  2.  Standards  ;  they  live  longer  and  bear 
more  fruit. 

Question  3.  They  have  done  well  on  all  soils,  but, 
perhaps,  a  good  mixture  of  clay  may  be  the  best.     Pears, 

22 


338  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

generally,  were  not  good  this  year,  but  J.  M.  Chambers, 
of  Dover,  tells  me  that  the  best  he  bought  came  from 
my  orchard,  not  far  from  the  bay.     Soil  rather  heavy. 

Question  4.     I  have  both,  twenty-seven  years  old. 

Question  5.  Spring  frost.  The  best  crop  of  pears 
I  have  ever  had  was  in  1880.  The  preceding  winter  was 
the  coldest  we  ever  had  here,  the  mercury  running  as 
low  as  18°  below  zero.  The  peach  crop  was  entirely 
destroyed  here. 

Question  6.     No  answer. 

Question  7.  Early  in  Spring.  Shallow.  If  I  see 
any  sign  of  blight  I  stop  all  cultivation. 

Question  8.  I  use  none  ;  some  manure  very  heavily. 
My  pears,  without  manure,  are  better  than  theirs  with 
manure,  but  their  trees  are  healthy  and  bear  regularly 
every  year. 

Question  9.  I  have  no  particular  system  of  trim- 
ming except  to  shape  the  tree  properly  and  keep  off 
water  sprouts.  I  have  hand-thinned,  but  with  no  good 
results. 

Question  10.  No  one  knows,  and  of  course  the 
treatment  is  empirical. 

Question  11.     No. 

Question  12.  Yes,  but  not  so  much  within  the  last 
two  years.  I  cannot  say  that  they  injure  my  trees.  I 
spray  whale  oil  soap  over  them. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  339 

Question  13.     Very  much. 

Question  14.     No. 

Question  15.     Have  never  tried  it. 

Question  16.  My  best  market  has  been  at  home,  to 
the  canners.  In  1884  I  sold  to  a  Cincinnati  dealer  at 
65  cents  all  through.  This  year  I  sold  to  a  Dover 
evaporator  for  43  cents  per  basket.  I  evaporated  all  the 
eanners  did  not  want  until  my  evaporator  was  destroyed 
by  fire  two  years  ago.  Pears  sell  very  slowly  in  the  city 
markets. 

Question  17.  Lawrence,  first  ;  Bartlett,  second. 
Peaches.  Pears  should  be  evaporated  more  slowly  than 
peaches  or  with  less  heat.  If  hurried  too  fast  their  edges 
become  dark,  and  this  spoils  there  appearance.  Some 
pears  are  not  worth  evaporating.  Pear-growing  is  very 
discouraging.  The  trees  are  expensive,  and  after  nursing 
them  for  twenty  years,  you  do  not  know  at  what  moment 
they  may  be  stricken  dead  with  blight.  The  market  is 
very  easily  glutted  and  I  do  not  think  they  ever  will  be 
grown  very  extensively.  Authors  differ  widely  as  to  the 
management  of  the  pear  orchard.  Some  say  heavy 
manuring  and  frequent  cultivation  is  best,  others  pursue 
an  opposite  course.  Some  say  that  starvation  causes 
blight,  others,  that  manuring  and  cultivation  produce  it. 
I  have  four  Bartletts,  dressed  for  the  last  four  years, 
annually,  with  a  load  of  good  horse^dung.     The  blight 


340  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

has  never  hurt  my  Bartletts  until  two  years  ago,  but 
two  of  these  manured  trees  contracted  the  disease  then. 
One  of  the  healthiest  pear  trees  I  own  is  a  Beurre  d' 
Anjou  in  my  yard.  The  grass  has  never  been  disturbed 
around  it  for  sixteen  years,  but  the  yard  is  well  dressed 
with  manure  and  wood  ashes  every  year.  The  blight 
has  hurt  my  Beurre  d'  Anjou  planted  in  my  orchard  and 
well  cultivated,  terribly.  They  were  both  out  of  the 
same  nursery  and  planted  at  the  same  time.  A  very 
extensive  nurseryman  and  fruit  grower  in  New  Jersey  in 
whose  judgment  I  have  the  greatest  confidence  tells  me 
to  cultivate  pear  trees  until  they  are  pretty  well  grown, 
then  let  them  remain  in  sod,  and  manure  them  without 
cultivation.  This  plan  just  hits  the  tree  in  my  yard. 
I  have  a  block  of  trees  in  my  orchard  which  I  sowed  in 
clover  and  mowed  the  clover  around  them  for  several 
years.  During  that  time  there  was  no  blight  among 
them,  but  not  being  manured  they  made  slow  growth  of 
wood.  When  the  clover  ran  out  I  commenced  cultivating 
them  and  the  blight  has  nearly  ruined  them.  Another 
block  of  Beurre  d'  Anjou  was  put  in  clover  at  the  same 
time.  The  trees  were  thrifty  and  vigorous  while  the 
clover 'was  growing  around  them  and  bore  most  enormous 
crops  of  elegant  pears,  but  as  soon  as  we  resumed  their 
cultivation,  the  blight  made  its  appearance  and  now 
many  of  the  trees  are  dead.  I  planted  eight  Bartletts 
nearly  thirty  years  ago  in  a  very  rich  piece  of  land  along 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  34I 

side  my  garden  fence.  They  have  never  been  tilled  nor 
mowed  around,  but  have  born  splendidly.  One  year  I  got 
over  one  hundred  dollars  from  the  eight  trees.  They  have 
been  free  from  disease.  1  have  become  very  much  dis- 
couraged with  pears  during  the  last  three  years,  and  have 
almost  concluded  to  plant  no  more.  The  slugs  have 
nearly  all  gone  from  my  trees,  but  the  deadly  fire-blight 
has  taken  their  place,  and  I  can't  tell  where  it  is  going  to 
end.  The  leaf-blight  has  also  given  me  a  great  deal  of 
trouble.  It  does  not  kill  the  trees  but  causes  them  to 
shed  their  leaves,  and  thus  ruins  the  fruit.  Some  of  the 
nicest  pears  are  not  worth  growing  on  account  of  the 
leaf  blight.  The  tree  blossoms,  and  sets  a  fine  crop  of 
fruit,  but  in  August  every  leaf  drops  off,  the  fruit  remains 
on  the  tree,  but  never  ripens.  All  these  trees  I  graft 
with  Bartletts.  So  you  will  see  that  between  the  graft- 
ing for  the  leaf  blight  and  the  digging  up  for  the  fire- 
blight,  I  have  had  a  sorry  time  with  pear  trees.  Had  I 
known  as  much  before  I  began  with  them  as  I  do  now, 
I  hardly  think  I  should  have  gone  into  them  as  largely 
as  I  have.  But  I  have  made  a  bad  bargain  and  am 
trying  to  make  the  most  out  of  it  I  am  able. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  lO. 

Question  i.     One  thousand   Standard  Bartlett,  one 
thousand  Dwarf  Duchess. 


342  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  2.  I  prefer  those  two  varieties,  one  dwarf, 
the  other  standard  ;  they  both  come  in  bearing  very 
early  and  about  the  same  time. 

Question  3.  Rolling  land,  clay  sub-soil. 

Question  4.  About  twenty  years  each. 

Question  5.  In  the  spring. 

Question  6.  No. 

Question  7.  After  a  few  years  they  are  better  with- 
out any  cultivation. 

Question  8.         Bone,  about  400  lbs.  per  acre. 

Question  9.  Standards  need  little  pruning.  Dwarfs 
cut  back  about  one  half  of  summer's  growth  for  several 
years. 

Question  10.  Not  able  to  answer.  Cut  back 
heavily. 

Question  11.  No. 

Question  12.  Yes  ;  no  ;  none. 

Question  13.  No. 

Question  14.  No. 

Question  15.  Never  do  so  for  market,  do  not  think 
it  pays. 

Question  16.  Hand-pick  them,  ship  them  in  boxes 
nearly  tight. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  343 

Question  17.     Bartlett. 

Is  pear  culture  profitable  with  you?  It  has  been 
very  profitable. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  II. 

Question  i.  Three-quarter  Bartletts  and  the  rest 
divided  equally  Howell  and  Lawrence.  Neither  of  them 
should  ever  be  dwarfed,  they  do  not  do  well  on  quince. 
I  would  never  plant  any  Dwarfs  but  the  Duchess. 

Question  2.  Nothing  pays  so  well  as  the  Bartlett, 
and  as  I  say  above,  it  should  never  be  dwarfed.  The 
Howell  is  a  profitable  pear  but  not  so  well  known  as 
Bartlett.  The  two  most  profitable  pears  are  Bartlett 
and  Duchess. 

Question  3.  Good  corn  land  a  little  stifif  is  the  best, 
and  ordinary  rolling  land  not,  exposed  to  strong  winds 
and  not  wet  in  the  sub-soil. 

Question  4.  That  depends  in  these  days  whether 
the  blight  is  bad  or  not,  and  no  one  can  foresee  that. 

Question  5.  I  have  never  had  any  injury  from  frost. 
I  think  chilly  east  winds  hurt  the  germ  in  this  climate 
more  than  frost. 

Question  6.  I  have  never  known  it  do  so  in  this 
locality. 

Question  7.  I  plough  early,  as  soon  as  the  ground 
is  in  condition  for  it,  with  a  one-horse  plough,  and  keep 


344  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

the  ground  cultivated  enough  to  keep  the  weeds  under, 
and  until  well-grown,  plant  beans,  sweet  corn,  etc. 
While  young,  plough  shallow  near  the  trees,  but  ordi- 
nary depth  away  from  them. 

Question  8.  Stable  manure  and  muriate  of  potash. 
About  400  lbs.  of  potash  once  in  three  or  four  years  and 
a  dressing  of  manure  yearly,  especially  while  you  crop 
the  land. 

Question  9.  Prune  in  March,  usually,  so  as  to  make 
a  good  shaped  tree.  I  always  thin  Bartletts  and  Duchess  ; 
some  years  one-half  or  two-thirds  of  the  fruit,  thereby 
getting  great  increase  in  size  and  improvement  in  flavor. 

Question  10.  I  have  not  been  able  to  form  an  opin- 
ion, and  all  I  do  is  to  cut  it  away  as  soon  as  it  shows  it- 
self. 

Question  11.  Standard  pear  trees  have  no  worms, 
and  if  the  Dwarf  are  set  right  so  that  the  quince  is  cov- 
ered by  the  soil,  they  will  not  be  troubled  by  the  borer. 

Question  12.  Slugs  check  the  growth  of  young 
trees.  Dry  dust  is  as  good  as  anything  to  put  over  them, 
by  the  hand. 

Question  13.  There  is  no  pear  curculio  like  the 
plum,  apricot,  etc.,  but  a  worm  similar  to  the  common 
apple  worm  ;  and  in  thinning,  if  late  enough  to  have  it 
show,  thin  out  the  wormy  ones. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  345 

Question  14.     No. 

Question  15.  If  you  have  enough  to  make  it  an  ob- 
ject, you  are  more  independent  of  the  market,  and  when 
you  do  not  wish  to  keep  them  into  the  late  autumn  or 
winter,  they  are  better  to  be  picked  as  soon  as  they  will 
part  from  the  stem  readily  and  ripened  in  a  cool,  dark 
place. 

Question  16.  Thus  far  I  have  prolonged  the  season 
all  I  could,  and  depended  on  the  local  market.  Am  not 
very  well  posted  on  these  questions. 

Question  17.  No  experience.  Is  pear  growing  pro- 
fitable with  you  .''  So  far,  pears  have  paid  me  well,  as 
with  the  market  garden  I  have  had  facilities  for  market- 
ing when  in  just  good  condition  for  retailing,  but  when 
my  young  orchard  comes  to  bearing  I  shall  have  to  ship 
them,  and  probably,  they  will  not  pay  so  well,  Though 
from  the  nature  of  the  fruit  I  do  not  think  there  is  much 
danger  that  good  pears  will  not  sell  in  the  eastern  mar- 
kets, as  ours  are  ripe  nearly  a  month  earlier  than  any  in 
New  York  or  New  England. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  12. 

Question  i.  Have  no  experience  south  of  Wil- 
mington. 

Question  2.  Standards  not  subject  to  borers  and  are 
in  general  more  healthy.     Dwarfs  are  usually  budded  too 


346  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

high,  and  not  planted  deep  enough  to  cover  the  quince 
stock. 

Question  3.  Clay  loam.  If  planted  on  the  north 
side  of  a  hill  the  blossoming  is  retarded  and  thus  escape 
late  frost. 

Question  4,     Have  no  experience  or  information. 

Question  5.  In  Spring  by  late  frost.  I  have  seen, 
however,  the  tender  Fall  growth  seriously  injured  by  Fall 
frost. 

Question  6.  I  have  never  known  pear  buds  to  be 
killed  by  the  cold. 

Question  7.  A  committee  of  the  American  Pomo- 
logical  Society,  appointed  for  the  purpose,  reported  that 
pear  trees  did  better  in  sod,  being  less  subject  to  blight, 
and  were  more  healthy  generally.  The  committee  trav- 
eled the  United  States,  north  and  south.  Their  report 
was  adopted. 

Questions.  Wood  ashes  all  the  time.  If  not  to  be 
had,  make  it  of  four  per  cent,  potash,  thirty-four  per  cent, 
lime,  and  two  per  cent,  salt,  balance  soil.  The  best  re- 
sult from  stable  manure,  was  when  applied  very  heavy 
in  the  Fall  around  the  trees,  and  spread  in  the  Spring. 

Question  9.  It  depends  upon  the  object  desired.  If 
for  growth,  trim  while  dormant.  If  too  much  growth 
and    too    little   fruit,  trim    while    in    growth.     Thin   out 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  347 

parallel  or  crossing  limbs  at  any  time,  but  July  and 
August  are  best.  Also  root  prune  if  the  tree  has  full 
size  and  no  fruit. 

Question  lo.  That  is  a  mystery.  It  is  certainly  a 
weakly  condition  of  the  tree  which  is  greatly  prevented 
by  the  wood  ashes.  No  remedy  but  cutting  out,  and  it 
should  be  severely  done  far  below  the  affected  part. 

Question  ii.  Standard  pears  are  not  wormy,  and 
Dwarfs  should  not  be,  if  properly  budded  and  properly 
planted. 

Question  12.  Slug  is  common  and  a  serious  injury 
to  the  tree.  Dusting  with  air  slaked  lime  or  even  with 
dry  pulverized  clay,  will  destroy  them. 

Question  13.     All  fruits  more  or  less. 

Question  14.     I  have  not  noticed  any. 

Question  15.  I  have  no  experience,  and  but  little 
information.  I  question  its  paying.  I  think  Chas. 
Downing  abandoned  his  fruit-house. 

Question  16.  Most  pears  require  picking  ten  days 
or  two  weeks  before  ripe,  and  if  your  market  is  distant, 
they  might  be  shipped  as  gathered,  and  will  ripen  on  the 
way.  If  near,  store  in  a  cool  room  or  cellar  and  market 
when  ripe. 

Question  17.  I  have  no  experience  in  evaporation. 
My  experience  is  that  it  is  not  the  cold  that  kills  plants, 


34S  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

such  as  roses,  evergreens,  etc.,  and  perhaps,  peach  and 
other  buds,  but  the  sudden  change  when  the  sun  strikes 
them.  Florists  always  shade  frosted  plants,  and 
thoroughly  wet  them  to  draw  the  frost  gradually.  I 
therefore  believe  that  peach  buds  would  be  less  injured 
on  the  north  side  of  a  hill,  the  sun's  rays  striking  more 
obliquely. 

Is  pear-culture  profitable  with  you  }  I  am  not  at 
present  cultivating  pears,  except  having  charge  of  a 
small  orchard  for  another  party,  on  a  small  scale.  It  is 
profitable. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,    NO.    I3. 

Question  i.  Have  rather  limited  experience  with 
full  Standards,  but  would  prefer  Bartletts.  For  Dwarfs,  I 
prefer  Lawrence,  Duchess,  Flemish  Beauty  and  Bartlett. 

Question  2.  Standards,  as  they  bear  equally  as  soon 
for  me.  And  they  are  longer  lived  and  produce  more 
fruit,  from  the  fact  the  tree  is  larger,  although  half 
standards  have  done  well  for  me. 

Question  3.  Stiff  soil,  with  red  clay  sub-soil.  If 
possible,  should  be  sheltered  from  the  northwestern 
winds,  and  a  valley  would  be  far  preferable. 

Question  4.  I  have  one  Standard  tree,  which  is 
sixty  years  old,  and  still  gives  a  profitable  crop.  I  have 
no   further    experience    with    Standards,    but    my   half 


PEACH    AND   THE    PEAR.  349 

Standards  have  been  bearing  for  twenty  years,  and  still 
yield  good  crops. 

Question  5.     Late  frost  in  Spring. 

Question  6.  I  have  never  suffered  from  winter 
killing. 

Question  7.  As  early  as  possible.  Eight  inches  ; 
plow  once  a  year  and  cultivate  often,  and  in  my  judg- 
ment no  weeds  or  grass  should  be  allowed  to  grow  in 
the  orchard. 

Question  8.  My  principal  fertilizer  is  coal  ashes, 
and  well  rotted  manure.  Apply  the  last  of  November 
or  first  part  of  December,  around  and  near  the  trunk  of 
trees,  about  a  shovel  full  of  former,  and  two  forks  full  of 
latter,  occasionally,  four  hundred  pounds  of  Kainit  to  the 
acre  during  fall  or  winter.  Every  Spring,  cover  ground 
liberally  with  stable  manure. 

Question  9.  Prune  very  little,  merely  to  keep  the 
branches  from  chafing  ;   very  seldom  hand  thin. 

Question  10.  I  have  never  had  but  one  variety  to 
blight,  Vicar  of  Winkfield.  As  cure.  I  cut  away  the 
branches  as  they  would  blight,  but  I  think  the  best 
remedy  is  to  take  the  tree  out. 

Question  11.  I  have  never  had  occasion  to  worm, 
other  than  to  look,  occasionally,  in  case  itjwould  be 
necessary. 


350  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Question  12.  I  do  on  my  young  dwarf  orchard,  but 
by  using  air  slaked  lime,  we  are  getting  rid  of  it.  I  do 
not  think  it  injures  the  trees  permanently. 

Question  13.  It  does,  and  seems  to  be  on  the 
increase. 

Question  14.     None. 

Question  15.     Have  no  experience. 

Question  16.  As  we  sell  our  fruit  in  Wilmington 
market,  retail,  we  prefer  to  hand-pick,  put  away  in  fruit 
room,  cover  with  blankets  uutil  well  colored,  and  place 
in  small  baskets. 

Question  17.  No  experience,  but  should  suggest 
the  Bartlett. 

Question  18.  My  pear  crop  pays  the  best  of  any 
crop  we  raise. 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM    GROWER,    NO    I4. 

Question  i.  Bartlett  and  Lawrence  are  the  best  I 
have  any  knowledge  of.  I  have  the  Beurre  d'Anjou,  a 
very  fine  pear,  but  will  not  keep  so  well  as  other 
varieties.  It  has  very  fine  flavor.  I  only  have  the 
Duchess  as  Dwarf. 

Question  2.  I  would  prefer  both  (Standards  and 
Dwarfs).  I  find  in  my  orchard,  this  year,  my  Standards 
bore  more  fruit,  and  some  years  it  is  the  other  way. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  351 

Question  3.  I  want  the  location  high,  loamy  and 
red  clay  sub-soil.  I  have  part  of  my  orchard  on  either 
flat  land  or  a  valley.  The  trees  do  not  do  well  there, 
but  where  it  is  higher  the  trees  are  more  thrifty  and 
fruit  better.  We  have  no  hills  or  slopes  in  our  location, 
therefore,  I  cannot  say  as  to  that.  Our  land  is  rather 
level. 

Question  4.  I  suppose  it  depends  entirely  upon 
location,  cultivation,  fertilization,  etc.,  as  to  the  life. 
My  orchard  was  set  out  in  May,  1870,  and,  I  believe,  has 
borne  fruit  most  every  year,  or  as  far  back  as  I  can 
remember,  and  the  trees  are  healthy  and  look  good  for 
many  years. 

Question  5.  I  have  known  my  trees  to  be  full  of 
blossoms  with  but  a  small  quantity  of  fruit.  Then  again 
no  blossoms  ;  I  think  they  are  very  much  like  a  peach  ; 
if  very  cold,  the  germ  will  be  destroyed,  or,  if  a  late 
frost,  when  in  blossom,  they  will  be  killed.  It  is  hard 
to  tell,  unless  a  record  is  kept  from  year  to  year. 

Question  6.  The  roots  of  a  Pear  tree  are  close  to 
the  surface,  and  are  subjected  to  extremes  of  heat  and 
cold. 

Question  7.  I  have  not  been  tilling  my  orchard  for 
the  last  two  years.  Have  it  in  grass  ;  let  the  hogs  run 
in  it.  When  Pear  trees  arrive  at  a  certain  age,  they  will 
not  bear  the  cutting  of  roots,  which  is  unavoidable  if  you 


352  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

plough,  for  the  ground  is  a  mass  of  roots.  I  believe  I 
have  lost  good  trees  from  that  cause,  but  young  trees 
should  be  ploughed  and  cultivated  very  shoal. 

Question  8.  I  use  manure  broadcast.  I  cover  in  the 
Spring,  or,  when  I  have  the  time,  in  Spring  or  Fall  ;  I 
prefer'the  later,  as  you  ought  to  get  some  benefit  in 
next  crop. 

Question  9.  Prune  slightly,  have  never  hand- 
thinned,  but  believe  if  I  had  done  so  on  several  crops, 
would  have  paid.  It  is  too  great  a  risk  here  ;  as  a 
general  thing,  the  trees  thin  themselves. 

Question  10.  The  slug,  as  some  call  it,  eat  the 
leaves  ;  of  course  the  tree  or  limb  is  affected,  or,  in 
other  words,  the  leaves  to  a  tree  are  very  much  the  same 
as  the  lungs  to  a  being.  I  have  thrown  dust  over  the 
tree,  and  wherever  it  strikes  a  worm,  it  will  fall. 

Question  11.  I  did  this  Fall,  but  did  not  find  any 
worms  or  grub.  We  hoe  around  and  examine  around 
the  roots  of  trees.  I  think  the  hogs  have  an  excellent 
tendency  to  keep  the  trees  healthy,  as  they  will  eat  the 
fallen  fruit. 

Question  12.  We  have  them,  and  I  notice  the  trees 
look  healthy,  but  the  fruit  has  been  knotty  and  small. 
It  may  grow  out  of  that  in  time.  Sometimes  the  tree 
dies. 

Question  13.     Can't  say. 


PEA.CH   AND   THE   PEAR.  353 

Question  14.     Have  not  seen  any. 

Question  15.  Most  varieties  are  better  when  pulled 
early  and  ripened  in  a  dark,  cool  place.  But  we  have 
too  many  trees  to  contend  with  ;  the  early  pears  bring 
the  money.  The  northern  States  can  grow  much  finer 
pears  than  we  can. 

Question  16.  I  think  crates  that  hold  a  peach  bas- 
ket will  pay  best.  The  late  varieties  I  ship  in  baskets,  as 
the  market  is  generally  glutted  or  over  stocked.  The 
Bartlett  is  the  pear  for  us,  for  profit,  as  it  comes  early. 

Question  17.  I  cannot  say,  have  not  had  any  ex- 
perience in  drying.  I  have  a  rather  poor  opinion  o^ 
pears  for  the  last  two  or  three  years,  as  there  are  so 
many  grown,  and  not  the  demand  there  used  to  be.  I 
don't  think  I  would  bother  them,  unless  it  might  be  the 
Bartlett.  I  found  my  pears  did  not  keep  well  this  year. 
My  Lawrence  generally  keep  until  the  first  or  middle 
of  December,  but  this  year  they  rotted  on  the  tree,  to 
an  extent,  and  did  not  keep  more  than  two  weeks  after 
picking.  My  experience  and  observation  is  rather  limited 
on  pear  culture,  although  I  have  a  fair  sized  orchard,  but 
have  not  studied  the  pear  much= 

ANSWERS   RECEIVED   FROM   GROWER,  NO.   1 5. 

Question  i.     400   Bartletts,   100  Howell,  50  Vicar, 
100  Doyenne  d'ete,  50  Buffum,  100  Beurre  d'Anjou,  100 
23 


354  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Lawrence,  50  Bergamot  and  50  Seckel.  Do  not  know 
much  about  Dwarfs  except  Duchess. 

Question  2.     Standards  ;  they  bear  more  and  longer. 

Question  3.  Loam,  with  sandy  sub-soil.  Southwest 
or  southeast  side  of  hill. 

Question  4.     Have  not  enough  experience  to  say. 

Question  5.     In  Spring. 

Question  6.     Think  not. 

Question  7.  Early  in  Spring,  as  shallow  as  possible, 
once.     Harrow  and  one  horse  cultivator. 

Question  8.  Stable  manure  and  ashes,  in  Winter  or 
early  Spring,  broadcast. 

Question  9.  In  Spring,  early,  thin  out  centre  and 
cut  off  unsightly  limbs.     Did  it  once  with  good  result. 

Question  10.  Fertilizing  or  cultivating  late  in  the 
season  causing  the  trees  to  grow  vigorously  in  the  Fall, 
and  the  wood  does  not  ripen  before  Winter.  Cut  back 
of  it  five  or  six  inches. 

Question  11.     No. 

Question  12.  Not  now,  had  them  once,  used  dry  dust 
when  the  dew  was  on. 

Question  13.  I  think  it  does,  causing  them  to  have 
a  knot  on  one  side. 

Question  14.     No  sir. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  355 

Question  15.  A  cool,  dry  place  is  best  to  keep  them. 
Have  never  tried  a  refrigerator.  Think  there  is  more 
money  to  me  in  selling  pears  in  their  season. 

Question  16.  When  they  will  come  off  in  the  hand 
by  a  slight  pull  ;  kept  until  they  are  a  pale  yellow  ;  not 
too  long  ;  in  peach  baskets. 

Question  17.  Have  no  experience.  Is  pear  grow- 
ing profitable  with  you  ?  Fairly  so,  the  blight  has  in- 
jured many  of  my  trees. 

ANSWERS  RECEIVED  FROM  GROWER,  NO.  16. 

Question  i .  Standard  :  50  Clapps  Favorite,  400  Bart- 
lett,  150  Sheldon,  50  Duchess,  200  Seckel,  50  Beurre 
d'Anjou,  50  Howell,  50  Lawrence.  1000  Dwarf:  Duchess, 
Bartlett,  Louise  Bonne  de'Jersey,  Vicar  of  Winkfield. 

Question  2.  Prefer  Standards,  as  they  come  into 
bearing  nearly  as  soon  as  Dwarfs,  are  longer  lived,  make 
larger  and  more  productive  trees,  less  liable  to  accident 
from  wind  and  teams,  also  not  as  susceptible  to  blight. 

Question  3.  Clay  loam,  not  heavy  or  light,  with 
good  drainage,  hill  side  with  moderate  slope  southerly, 
if  possible,  wind-breaks  of  pines  or  spruce  on  north  or 
west  sides  1  think  of  great  advantage. 

Question  4.     No  answer. 

Question  5.     Spring. 


356  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  6.  Do  not  think  they  are  often  injured  by- 
low  temperature  in  this  climate,  if  wood  is  fully  matured. 

Question  7.  Plow  early  as  the  ground  will  permit ; 
shoal,  not  over  4  to  5  inches,  then  keep  weeds  down  and 
the  ground  in  order  with  harrow  and  cultivator.  Do  not 
like  too  many  varieties  for  market  orchard. 

Question  8.     Barnyard  manure  and  ashes. 

Question  9.  Prune  every  Spring.  Never  hand-thin 
to  any  extent. 

Question  10.  Cannot  tell  the  cause.  Cut  the  limbs 
below  any  blight  on  bark. 

Question  11.  Not  often,  have  punched  the  borers 
with  wire,  occasionally. 

Question  12.  Never  have  been  troubled  with  slugs. 
Know  of  one  orchard  ruined  by  them.  They  could  find 
no  remedy. 

Question  13.  To  some  extent;  some  seasons  more 
than  others. 

Question  14.     Have  not  noticed  any. 

Question  15.     No  answer. 

Question  16.     No  answer. 

Question  17.  No  answer.  Is  pear  growing  profit- 
able with  you  ?     Yes. 


pf:ach  and  the  pear.  357 

answers  received  from  grower,  no.  i/. 

Question  i.  Standard — Manning's  Elizabeth,  Bart- 
lett,  LeConte  and  Kiefifer.  Dwarfs  —Manning's  E.,  Bart- 
lett,  Howell,  and  Duchess. 

Question  2.  I  prefer  Dwarfs,  for  the  reason  they 
blight  less  on  my  soil.  In  the  future  I  shall  plant  all 
Dwarfs  except  the  Le  Conte  and  Kieffer.  They  have  to 
be  as  Standards. 

Question  3.  A  medium  loam  with  open  sub-soil.  I 
prefer  high,  rolling  land.     Easterly  exposure,  if  possible. 

Question  4.  I  do  not  know.  I  have  a  vigorous 
dwarf  Duchess  tree  that  was  planted  in  1856. 

Question  5.     In  the  Spring. 

Question  6.     No. 

Question  7.  I  plough  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  dry 
enough  in  the  Spring,  from  three  to  four  inches  deep, 
only  once.  Then  we  keep  the  ground  thoroughly  worked 
with  the  cultivator  and  spring  tooth  harrow  until  some 
time  in  August. 

Question  8.  I  use  dissolved  Ammoniated  Bone,  300 
lbs.  per  acre,  and  well  rotted  stable  manure,  which  I  com- 
post in  the  fall  and  apply  it  around  the  trees  the  follow- 
ing Spring,  just  before  ploughing.  Stimulating  manures 
should  be  avoided. 


358  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Question  9.  We  prune  young  trees,  but  bearing 
trees  require  very  little.  It  will  pay  to  hand-thin  the 
fruit  when  trees  are  overloaded. 

Question  10.  I  don't  know.  When  a  tree  blights, 
we  dig  it  out  and  plant  another. 

Question  11.     No. 

Question  12.  Yes.  It  does.  I  use  White  Helle- 
bore, two  pounds  dissolved  in  eighty  gallons  of  water. 
Apply  it  to  the  trees  by  means  of  Fountain  Pump. 

Question  13.     Very  rarely. 

Question  14.     No. 

Question  15.     Have  had  no  experience. 

Question  16.  Pick  carefully  ;  pack  in  baskets,  and 
keep  in  a  cool  dry-house. 

Question  17.  Bartlett,  LeConte,  and  Kieffer.  The 
pear  is  much  easier  to  evaporate  than  the  peach. 

Is  pear-growing  profitable  with  you  ?  Pear-growing 
is  profitable  with  me,  but  it  requires  great  attention.  I 
fruited  the  LeConte  pear  this  season,  and  am  very  much 
pleased  with  it.  It  ripens  after  Duchess,  and  is  of  fine 
flavor.  It  should  be  planted  on  its  own  root,  as  it  is  too 
strong  a  grower  for  any  other  stock.  I  believe  it  is 
blight-proof. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  359 

ANSWERS   FROM   GROWER,   NO.    l8. 

My  experience  in  the  twenty  years  of  growing  pears 
IS  not  satisfactory,  so  far  as  paying  for  land  and  labor 
goes,  but  I  do  not  condemn  the  culture  of  pears.  I 
think  that  I  selected  a  flat  piece  of  land,  which  was  not 
adapted  to  the  healthy  growth.  I  would  not  be  afraid 
to  plant  an  orchard  on  your  farm  Avhere  Mr.  Hill  resides. 

1st.  I  would  plant  999  Bartletts,  out  of  1000 
Standard  pears,  for  this  locality. 

2d.  The  Duchess  are  the  best  and  only  dwarfs,  so 
far  as  my  trial  goes,  that  pays.  I  prefer  the  Bartlett 
above  all  others,  because  of  their  good  quality  for  ship- 
ping, and  regular  bearing  qualities,  and  if  the  slug  should 
strike  them  so  as  to  injure  the  fruit,  you  can  get  some- 
thing out  of  them  by  drying  them.  They  are  the  only 
pear  that  pays  to  dry.  The  Duchess  are  good  bearers, 
and  if  planted  properly,  will  live  to  be  old  trees.  I  have 
them  twenty  years  old,  looking  fresh  and  in  regular 
bearing,  but  the  fruit  is  only  fit  for  market  in  a  ripe 
state  ;  will  not  dry.  In  starting  an  orchard,  a  small 
quantity  of  ashes  around  the  trees  with  good  cultivation 
is  best. 

3d.  The  best  land  is  high,  well  drained,  with  a 
little  gravel  sub- soil. 

4th.  I  cannot  tell  how  long  a  standard  pear  will 
live,  but  my  orchard  is  twenty  years  old,  and  the 
Duchess  with  the  Bartletts,  are  alike  vigorous. 


360  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

5th.  I  have  never  known  them  to  be  injured  with 
frost  only  in  Spring,  when  in  full  bloom. 

6th.  In  1881,  when  the  peaches  were  all  killed,  the 
pears  were  not  injured. 

7th.  I  do  not  want  to  plough  until  the  ground  is  in 
good  order  ;  for  the  first  three  years,  only  for  a  few  furrows 
around  the  tree  ;  regular  ploughing  after  that,  two  to 
three  inches,  after  they  get  to  regular  bearing,  is  about 
the  right  depth.  Corn  or  potatoes  can  be  alternated  as 
the  best  crops,  and  after  three  years,  cultivate  without 
any  crop  for  a  year  or  two.  I  found  that  by  letting  my 
orchard  lay  in  grass  after  the  blight  struck  it,  I  got 
entirely  rid  of  the  disease.  I  may  be  mistaken,  but  my 
impression  is  that  high  cultivation  before  they  come  in 
full  bearing,  is  conducive  to  blight.  I  found  that  the 
blight  always  commenced  about  the  middle  of  June,  and 
always  commenced  on  the  new  growth,  and  by  letting 
my  orchard  go  for  three  years  it  ceased  to  appear,  and 
since  that  time  I  have  not  worked  it  only  about  every 
two  years,  leaving  a  grass  plot  around  the  trees.  They 
bear  regular  and  good  fruit.  I  do  not  think  that  any 
fertilizer  should  be  used  very  heavy.  Wood  and  coal 
ashes  I  have  found  to  be  all  that  is  wanted  on  my  soil. 
A  mulch  of  straw  in  the  Fall  would  be  of  use  while  young. 
I  trimmed  until  I  got  them  in  good  shape.  After  they 
begin  to  bear,  I  think  they  need  but  little  trimming.  I 
have  never  found  worms  to  trouble  them.     I  have  never 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  361 

been  troubled  with  slug.  If  they  continue,  they  will 
injure  the  tree.  Some  say,  who  have  been  troubled  with 
slug,  that  dry  dust  of  lime,  or  ashes,  or  road,  sprinkled 
over  the  trees  in  the  morning  when  the  dew  is  on,  is  a 
remedy.  I  never  heard  of  the  curculio  injuring  pears. 
We  have  no  new  disease  or  insect  in  our  neighborhood. 
I  answered  the  rest  of  your  questions  on  the  paper  you 
sent  me  ;  if  you  will  excuse  me  for  my  long  epistle,  I 
will  close  ;  it  will  give  me  pleasure  to  answer  anything 
I  have  omitted. 

Question  15.  If  they  could  be  kept  when  we  have 
a  crop  of  peaches  without  too  much  expense  until  the 
middle  of  November  so  as  to  have  them  firm  (I  speak  of 
the  Bartlett)  I  have  no  doubt  that  they  would  bring  a 
better  price. 

Question  16.  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  nice,  oblong 
box,  something  shape  and  size  of  the  orange  box,  with 
paper  lining  placed  careful,  would  be  the  best  package  to 
put  in  when  hard,  and  then  they  should  be  kept  in  a  dark 
place  to  ripen. 

Question  17.  The  only  pear  that  I  have  in  my 
orchard  that  is  fit  to  dry  is  the  Bartlett. 

In  my  letter  I  said  that  in  selecting  a  pear  orchard 
I  would  plant  999  Bartletts  out  of  looo  Standards,  but 
in  thinking  over  my  orchard  I  overloooked  the  Lawrence. 
They  are  a  Fall  pear  and  come  in  a  good  time  and  sell 


362  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

well.  The  Bartlett  pear  does  not  take  as  much  heat  to 
evaporate  as  the  peach.  It  is  more  like  the  apple.  In 
planting  out  an  orchard  of  1000  standard  pears  I  would 
first  select  800  Bartletts,  175  Lawrence  and  25  Seckel, 
I  would  plant  the  standards,  say  20  ft.  square,  and  in  the 
centre,  as  dotted,  the  Dwarfs. 

S  S  S 

D  D 

s  s  s 

Is  pear  growing  profitable  with  you  .-'    No  answer. 

^  ANSWER  RECEIVED  FROM   GROWER,  NO.   I9. 

Lower  Delaware. 
Dr.  John  J.  Black, 

New  Castle,  Del. 
Dear  Sir  : — I  am  in  receipt  of  your  printed  inquiries 
concerning  the  growing  of  pears,  and  regret  that  I  am 
unable  to  send  you  a  satisfactory  answer.  I  do  not  regard 
the  pear  crop  as  a  profitable  one  for  us,  and  have  never 
engaged  largely  in  its  culture. 

ANSWER  RECEIVED  FROM   GROWER,  NO.  20. 

New  Castle  County,  Del. 

Your  list  of  questions  was  received,  last  week.  I  do 

not  think  I  can  answer  any  of  them  so  that  I  would  be 

willing  for  a  person  to  put  any  faith   in  what  I  said.     I 

have  not  interested  myself  in  pear  culture  since  I   have 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  3^3 

been  farming.  When  our  orchard  first  came  into  bearing 
we  thought  some  varieties  paid  fairly  well  but  we  were 
troubled  with  blight  and  slug.  The  orchard  has  passed 
out  of  my  hands  —  owning  the  farm  where  the 
pear  orchard  is.  If  it  were  mine  I  would  have  had  it 
pulled  up  long  ago  ;  it  still  stands,  worth  nothing,  I 
consider.  I  am  very  sorry  I  cannot  give  you  more  definite 
information,  but  our  experience  with  pears  is  not  very 
favorable,  owing  to  blight  and  slug. 

ANSWERS     RECEIVED    FROM     GROWER,     NO.    21.    A    NEW 
JERSEY  GROWER. 

Question  i.  200  Lawson,  20oBartlett,  200  LeConte, 
400  Kieffer,  1000  Standards  :  200  Lawson.  200  Clapp's 
Favorite,  200  Bartlett,  200  d'Anjou,  200  Duchess,  1000 
Dwarfs. 

Question  2.  We  prefer  Standards  to  Dwarfs  because 
most  varieties  succeed  better  on  pear  than  on  quince. 
They  are  longer  lived  and  produce  more  fruit. 

Question  3.  We  think  the  best  soil  for  a  pear  is  a 
sandy  loam  with  sub-soil  of  clay  or  gravel,  and  on  hill. 
They  are  less  liable  to  blight  than  if  in  valley. 

Question  4.  Pear  orchards  should  continue  in  profit, 
if  properly  cared  for,  fifty  to  seventy-five  years  for  Stand- 
ards, and  twenty-five  to  thirty  years  for  Dwarfs. 

Question  5.  We  think  the  pear  crop  is  most  fre- 
quently injured  by  frost  in  Spring. 


36  ^  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

Question  6.  Have  never  known  pear  buds  to  be 
killed  by  low  temperature  in  Winter. 

Question  7.  We  plow  early  in  Spring,  4  to  6  inches 
deep  and  keep  thoroughly  cultivated  untH  about  middle 
of  August  ;  after  which  we  think  best  to  have  no  culti- 
vation, that  the  wood  may  ripen  up.  In  Fall,  on  ap- 
proach of  Winter,  plow  furrows  to  the  trees,  leaving 
clear  midway  between  the  rows  to  carry  off  water. 

Question  8.  We  have  used  Kainit  and  wood  ashes 
with  good  results,  sown  broadcast  in  winter. 

Question  9.  We  prune  young  trees  by  cutting  off 
two-thirds  the  young  growth  in  Winter,  and  thinning  out 
branches  where  too  thick.  As  the  trees  become  older  and 
make  less  growth,  we  take  off  one-half  the  young  growth 
and  after  they  come  into  heavy  bearing  they  will  need 
little,  if  any  pruning.  Where  the  fruit  is  set  too  thick, 
it  will  improve  the  size  and  quality  by  thinning  it. 

Question  10.  We  do  not  know  the  cause  of  pear- 
blight.  The  way  to  treat  it  is  to  cut  off  the  affected  part 
and  burn  it. 

Question  11.  The  pear  tree  should  be  wormed  at 
the  collar  in  Fall  of  year,  same  as  peaches. 

Question  12.  We  have  slug  ;  they  check  the  growth 
of  the  tree  for  the  present  season  by  eating  the  leaves  ; 
don't  think  it  any  permanent  injury  unless  continued 
yearly. 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  365 

Question  13.     No  answer. 

Question  14.     Have  not  observed  any. 

Question  15.  By  cold  storage,  some  varieties,  such 
as  Bartlett,  that  ripen  at  times  the  markets  are  over- 
stocked, may  be  held  to  advantage.  Where  kept  in 
damp  or  wet  cold  storage,  we  think  the  quality  is  dete- 
riorated ;  when  dry  it  is  not  affected. 

Question  16.  The  best  manner  of  gathering  the 
fruit  is  by  light  step  ladders  of  convenient  size  for  larger 
trees.  We  pick  in  baskets.  For  shipment,  pack  in 
bushel  boxes,  furnished  by  New  York  commission  men. 

Question  17.  We  believe  the  Kieffer  to  be  the  best 
pear  for  evaporating,  canning,  or  preserving.  Second, 
LeConte. 

Is  pear  growing  profitable  with  you  ?  The  following 
sorts  are  profitable  :  Lawson,  Bartlett,  LeConte,  Kieffer, 
and  Lawrence.  Lawson  being  very  early,  beautiful,  and 
productive,  we  think  will  be  very  valuable  in  Delaware 
and  Maryland. 

ANSWER    RECEIVED   FROM   PEAR   GROWER,   NO,  22. 

Dr.  John  J..  Black, 

New  Castle,  Delaware. 
My  Dear  Dr.  Black  : — I  think  I  had  better  give  you 
my  experience  in  the    pear  business   in  my  own    way 
instead  of  answering  your  printed  questions  in  detail. 


366  THE   CULTIVATION    OF   THE 

About  twenty-one  years  ago harrassed  me  until 

I  gave  him  an  order  for  pear  trees.  I  frankly  told  him  I 
could  not  tell  him  what  varieties  to  send  me,  but  he 
declared   he    knew,  and  would   send  me   paying   kinds. 

Before  he  sent  them,  I  went  to and  asked  him  to 

release  me  from  the  order,  telling  him  I  was  of  the 
opinion  I  was  leaving  too  much  to  him.  He  declared  he 
knew  the  paying  varieties  and  would  send  them  to  me. 
He  sent  me  a  great  many  kinds — all  sorts  of  French 
names — but  only  three  or  four  were  worth  anything, 
Lawrence,  Bartlett  and  Duchess,  were  good.  The  others 
were  bought  as  refuse  from  a  nursery  in  New  Jersey,  and 
from  this  refuse  I  got  most  of  my  trees.  A  good  many 
were  dead  when  they  arrived,  which  the  seller,  to  me, 
acknowledged  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  and  left  the 
amount  of  his  bill  to  me  to  determine.  I  paid  the  whole 
amount  $8oo,when,  in  truth,  I  did  not  owe  him  one  cent. 
He  really  was  in  debt  to  me.  I  afterwards  found  he  was 
in  the  habit  of  crying  when  he  had  an  unjust  account. 
Bartlett,  Duchess  and  Lawrence  have  always  borne  well 
with  me,  and  paid  handsomely,  until  this  year.  Duchess 
is  a  Dwarf  pear  and  does  well.  I  have  seen  it  as 
Standard,  but  it  did  not  do  well.  Bartlett  and  Lawrence 
bear  so  soon,  and  do  so  well  as  Standards,  it  seems  to 
me,  useless  to  have  them  any  other  way  on  my  stiff  soil, 
(stiff  yellow  clay).  I  cultivated  my  trees  until  they 
were  six  or  seven  years  old  ;  I  then  penned  my  sheep  in 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  367 

the  orchard  at  night,  when  the  snow  was  off  the  ground  ; 
when  snow  is  on  the  ground  the  sheep  will  bite  the  trees. 
Sheep  manure  Pear  trees  better  than  any  other  way  I 
ever  saw  them  manured.  Whether  the  sheep  kept  off 
the  slug,  or  not,  I  can't  say,  but  my  trees  have  never 
been  troubled  with  slug,  and  my  neighbors'  have.  When 
I  first  sent  pears  to  market  they  wanted  them  ripe  ;^now 
the  dealers  want  to  ripen  them  themselves.  If  they  are 
all  ripe  they  have  to  use  them  at  once.  If  they  are  not 
ripe  they  can  hasten  them  or  keep  them  back.  There  is 
no  pear  equal  to  the  Bartlett  for  canning  or  drying.  I 
believe  there  will  be  a  great  demand  for  evaporated 
Bartletts.  I  find  the  northern  pears  are  sent  to  market 
in  kegs  ;  they  bring  more  than  ours,  but  they  are  said  to 
be  finer  and  smoother  than  ours.     I  replanted  the  dead 

trees  I  got  from  with  Bartletts,  and  I  did  right. 

They  have  borne  well,  and  have  been  fine,  and  paid  well 
until  this  year.  They  did  not  pay  at  all  this  year, 
because  they  were  not  as  good  as  usual,  and  the  season 
was  so  late. 


This  letter  sounds  so  true  to  nature,  to  those  who  have 
suffered,  and  is  the  same  old  story  as  told  over  an  over 
again,  by  the  good  people  of  the  Peninsula.  Could  they 
have  had  proper  guides  in  fruit  culture,  such  cases  never 
could  have  occurred,  and  a  knowledge  of  this  fact  has 
greatly  stimulated  me  in  preparing  this  book. 


Chapter  XVIII. 


THE   QUINCE. 

I  don't  know  of  any  large  quince  orchards  on  the 
Peninsula,  but  I  do  know  that  a  great  many  trees  have 
been  planted,  and  that  the  results  have  not  been  satis- 
factory, and  for  this  reason  quince  culture  will  be  voted 
a  failure  by  nearly  every  one  who  has  attempted  it. 
The  whole,  or  a  great  part  of  the  trouble,  lies  in  the 
method  of  treatment.  I  have  planted  during  the  last 
thirteen  years,  probably,  two  hundred  trees,  but  until 
recently,  for  lack  of  time  and  opportunity,  have  paid 
very  little  attention  to  them,  and  for  this  reason  they 
have  not  been  profitable  to  me,  and  since  I  have  looked 
well  into  the  matter,  I  see  the  reason  and  propose  to 
remedy  it,  and  to  make  my  past  experience  of  avail  to 
the  good  of  my  fellow  fruit-growers.  My  trees  have 
been  worked  and  treated,  generally,  like  pear  trees,  and 
have  thus  lacked  proper  quince  methods. 

The  quince  is  a  small  deciduous  tree,  almost  shrub- 
like if  left  to  nature.  It  is  indigenous  to  the  south  of 
Europe,  and  was  highly  esteemed  by  the  ancient  Greeks 
24 


370  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

and  Romans,  both  as  food  and  medicine.  The  blossoms 
are  large,  beautiful  white  and  pink,  and  appear  late. 
The  quince  is  not  fit  for  food,  raw,  but  for  preserving,  it  is 
excellent,  and  is  useful  to  give  flavor  and  consistency  to 
other  preserves,  and  the  seeds  are  much  used  for  their 
mucilage  in  jellies,  and  as  a  demulcent  in  medicine. 
The  two  forms  of  apple  quinces  and  pear  quinces  are 
the  usual  kinds.  The  apple  is  finer,  tut  the  pear  is 
ready  for  market  first.  The  Angers  is,  probably,  the 
most  useful  variety,  being  so  much  used  for  grafting  the 
pear  to,  and  thus  dwarfing  it. 

The  quince  is  easily  propagated  from  seed,  or  by 
laying  it,  or  from  cuttings.  By  cuttings  is  the  proper 
way.  Cut  them  in  the  Fall,  heel  them  in  and  protect 
them  through  the  Winter,  and  plant  them  in  the  Spring, 
where  the  sun  won't  be  too  strong  on  them.  The  quince 
can  also  be  propagated  by  budding,  and  for  this  purpose 
use  the  Angers  roots.  Budding  is  the  most  certain  way, 
probably,  to  perpetuate  a  variety. 

The  quince  needs  a  good,  rich,  sandy  loam,  and  if  a 
stream  is  near  it  the  better  it  thrives,  or  a  pond,  or  any 
water.  If  for  an  orchard,  plant  twelve  by  twelve  feet, 
or  what  is  better,  fifteen  feet  by  ten  feet.  The  quince  is 
planted  the  same  way  as  dwarf  pears,  and  to  grow  them 
successfully,  must  be  treated  exactly  as  follows,  or  you 
will  fail  entirely,  except  the  tree  be  near  a  smoke  house, 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  371 

or  in  some  selected  garden  spot.    These  trees  will  grow 
with  any  treatment.     I  refer  now  to  field  culture. 

The  soil  I  say  must  be  deep  and  rich,  and  thoroughly 
drained,  with  some  sand  in  it.  If  near  salt  water,  so 
much  the  better,  and  hence,  I  would  recommend  the  field- 
culture  of  quinces  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Peninsula 
near  salt  water.  They  must  be  mulched  heavily  every 
Fall,  long  coarse  hay,  salt  hay,  or  straw  or  leaves  will 
do.  The  fine  roots  run  close  to  the  ground  and  must  be 
protected  from  the  frost  of  our  Winters.  Tramp  around 
them  occasionally  to  drive  out  the  mice  during  the  cold 
weather,  and  especially  near  Spring.  In  the  Spring, 
scatter  the  Autumn  mulch  around  the  tree  as  far  as  the 
branches  extend,  and  give  the  tree  a  dressing  of  from 
three  to  five  pounds  of  muriate  of  potash,  the  amount 
depending  on  the  size  of  the  tree,  one  year,  and  the  next 
year  a  like  amount  of  Kainit  scattered  around  as  far  as 
the  branches  extend,  and  so  alternating  from  year  to 
year.  Now  as  soon  as  the  weather  gets  warm,  fork  over 
the  ground  to  the  depth  of  three  inches  only,  with  a 
common  dung  fork,  re-mulch  with  salt  hay,  if  you  can 
get  it  ;  if  not,  any  straw,  hay,  or  leaves  will  do.  Two  or 
three  times  during  the  summer,  scatter  salt  over  the 
mulch  ;  this  keeps  up  moisture  and  the  quince  delights  in 
salt.  It  will  be  seen  we  have  not  ploughed  the  ground. 
Well,  the  secret  of  success  is,  not  to  use  the  plough,  as  it 
disturbs  the  roots  of  the  quince,  they  being  so  superficial. 


372  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Mulching  and  the  forking  over  the  ground  is  all  that  is 
needed.  Every  August,  examine  closely  for  the  borer, 
and  this  will  upturn  the  earth  a  little  near  the  roots  of 
the  trees  ;  watch  the  borer  or  it  will  kill  the  tree.  The 
quince  sometimes  blights,  but  probably  only  when  near 
pears  that  have  blighted.  Treat  it  as  for  pear  blight. 
Now  an  important  point  is  to  properly  prune  the  quince. 
You  must  cut  back  the  young  growth  in  Winter  or  early 
Spring,  one-half,  and  cut  out  all  over-lapping  and  useless 
branches ;  in  fact  train  it  more  as  a  pear  tree  and  not  let 
it  grow  to  a  bush.  In  mulching,  it  will  be  seen  I  did  not 
recommend  green  manures.  Well,  the  reason  is  as  I  have 
so  often  before  stated,  I  don't  believe  green  manure 
ought  to  be  put  near  any  fruit  tree  until  after  it  has  been 
thoroughly  composted,  and  I  am  a  little  afraid  of  its 
bacterial  producing  properties,  even  then.  Now,  as  to 
the  varieties  of  the  quince  to  plant,  it  don't  make  so 
much  difference  what  kind,  provided,  you  follow  the 
directions  I  have  given  for  cultivation.     There  are  the 

Angers, 

Champion, 

Orange  or  Apple, 

Pear, 

Reas'  Mammoth, 

Meech's  Prolific. 

I  can  raise  good  Angers,  or  Orange,  or  Champion, 
©r  any  other  kind  with  right  and  proper  treatment.     The 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  3/3 

Champion  has  shown  the  best  fruit  I  have  seen,  and  I 
have  heard  Meech's  Prolific  highly  eulogized.  With  my 
present  knowledge,  if  I  was  planting  largely  I  would 
plant  some  of  Angers,  and  largely  of  Orange  and  Cham- 
pion, and  especially  Champion. 

I  hope  Peninsula  growers,  and  particularly  those  in 
the  lower  counties  bordering  on  salt  water,  will  take  up 
the  quince  and  test  it  freely,  and  I  feel  sure,  if  they 
follow  the  rules  I  have  laid  down,  another  success  will  be 
added  to  the  realm  of  Peninsula  fruit  culture. 

THE    SPANISH    CHESTNUT. 

I  find,  often,  when  our  Peninsula  farmers  wish  to 
plant  shade  trees,  and  ornament  their  grounds,  they 
select  the  maple,  and  various  rapid  growing  deciduous 
trees  and  evergreens,  all  very  handsome,  and  necessary, 
often,  to  get  quick  growth  and  shade  ;  but,  nevertheless, 
I  think  it  unfortunate  that  more  attention  is  not  paid  to 
the  useful  nut-bearing  trees,  and  right  here,  I  want  to 
say  that  I  urge  this  planting  of  nut-bearing  trees  among 
our  good  peninsula  people,  and  particularly  do  I  recom- 
mend the  Spanish  chestnut  and  the  English  walnut  or 
Maderia  nut,  and,  for  the  benefit  of  their  children's 
children,  the  Shellbark,  which  is  only  an  extra  fine  speci- 
men of  our  common  hickory  nut,  with  favorable  sur- 
roundings.    These    trees    are    all    ornamental,  and    the 


374  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

Chestnut  and  Walnut  rapid  growing,  and  thus  desirable 
shade  trees.  I  have  no  doubt  they  would  all  be 
decidedly  profitable  if  cultivated  with  that  end  in  view. 

THE   SPANISH   CHESTNUT. 

We  can  read  the  history  of  all  large  chestnuts  in 
this  country  not  derived  from  the  native  American 
sweet  chestnut,  in  the  name  Spanish  Chestnut.  Yet  all 
are  not  Spanish  Chestnuts.  There  is  the  Downton  from 
England,  and  the  Lude  from  Scotland,  and  many  other 
varieties,  but  when  we  speak  of  Spanish  Chestnuts  we 
mean  all  these  large  chestnuts,  not  native  to  this 
country.  There  is  now  one  exception,  the  large,  sweet, 
Japanese  Chestnut,  which  nurserymen  are  introducing, 
and  which,  I  hope,  may  prove  even  larger,  sweeter  and 
better  than  the  Spanish,  but  it  has  not  been  thoroughly 
tested  on  this  Peninsula  as  to  hardiness,  and  I  wont  yet 
recommend  it.  The  meat  of  all  these  nuts  is  excellent 
when  cooked,  and  only  inferior  in  flavor  to  our  smaller, 
sweet  native  chestnut. 

These  large  chestnuts  are  in  great  demand  by  con- 
fectioners, and  from  them  they  make  the  well  known 
and  delicious  bon  bon,  Maron  Glace  ;  and  here,  let  me 
tell  you  young  men  of  the  peninsula,  these  Marons 
Glaces  are  dearly  loved  by  coy  maidens.  I  have  no 
doubt,  extended  production  would  develope  many  uses 
for   these    desirable    nuts.      Chestnuts    are    very   easily 


PEACH    AND   THE   TEAR.  3/5 

propagated.  You  may  plant  the  seed  in  the  Fall  where 
you  want  the  tree  to  grow.  Put  in  one  or  two  inches 
deep,  and  in  the  Spring  it  will  sprout  and  grow.  A  good 
way  is  to  take  up  a  sod,  drop  the  nut  and  return  the  sod, 
grass  side  down  ;  you  may  lay  the  nuts  in  a  sandy  bed  in 
the  Fall,  let  them  get  the  action  of  the  winter  frost  and 
in  the  Spring  they  will  sprout.  These  had  better  be 
transplanted  to  nursery  row,  and  planted  a  year  or  two 
old.  You  may  also  graft  the  Spanish  Chestnut,  on  our 
sweet  chestnut,  but  this  is  tedious.  A  good  way  is  to 
take  a  seedling  Spanish  Chestnut,  and  then  take  scions 
from  some  good  and  well-known  Spanish  tree,  bearing 
good  nuts,  and  graft  it.  Thus  you  are  more  sure  of 
getting  good  productive  trees.  I  assure  you  those  you 
buy  from  the  average  nurseryman  are  not  always  pro- 
ducers of  the  very  best  nuts.  Selection  and  cultivation, 
and  increased  demand,  will  cause  our  peninsula  nursery- 
men, intelligent  and  active  men  as  they  are,  to  remedy 
all  this. 

Now  one  secret  about  planting  these  trees.  What- 
ever size  when  you  plant  them,  cut  them  back  at  that 
time  to  two  buds,  and  train  your  tree  from  the  best  one 
of  these.  Tf,  after  several  years,  a  tree  dont  do  well,  cut 
it  back  to  two  buds  and  train  over  again.  All  chestnuts 
revel  in  such  amputations,  and  I  learned  this  secret  of 
thus  raising  Spanish  Chestnuts  from  John  Landers  the 
well-known  Gardener  and  Horticulturist,  who,  with  his 


3/6  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

equally  well-known  sons,  own  and  carry  on  the  Rosedale 
Gardens   on  Landers    Avenue,  New    Castle,  Delaware. 

As  to  the  cultivation  of  Spanish  Chestnuts,  treat 
them  just  as  I  recommended  the  quince  to  be  treated,  by 
mulches,  etc.,  and  with  little  or  no  stirring  of  the  ground, 
and  watch  them  about  the  roots  for  worms.  I  formerly 
cultivated  them  like  pears,  and  at  the  suggestion  of  one  of 
my  tenants,  Mr.  Charles  S.  Hill,  I  ceased  cultivating 
them,  and  from  that  time  they  thrived  splendidly,  and 
now  I  have  some  magnificent  and  fruitful  trees. 

THE   ENGLISH   WALNUT    OR    MADEIRA   NUT. 

A  delicious  nut  in  great  demand,  and  largely  im- 
ported into  this  country,  when  we  ought  to  raise  all  of 
them  at  home.  I  can  recommend  it  from  personal 
experience  as  entirely  hardy  on  the  Peninsula,  as  a  very 
rapid  grower,  and  as  producing  large  crops,  annually,  of 
delicious  nuts.  It  may  be  propagated  by  planting  the 
seed  where  you  wish  the  tree  to  grov\%  but  decidedly  the 
best  plan  is  to  sprout  in  the  nursery,  transplant  to 
nursery  row,  and  plant  the  tree,  at  from  one  to  three 
years  old.  It  grows  right  off  and  gives  no  trouble,  and 
is  to  be  treated  like  the  Quince  and  Spanish  Chestnut, 
except  it  does  not  require  to  be  cut  back.  Its  only  fault  I 
see  is,  that  the  wood  is  rapid  growing  and  hence,  brittle, 
and  is  more  liable  to  injuries  by  wind-storms  than  sur- 
rounding trees.     An  avenue  bordered  by  $panish  Chest- 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  377 

nuts  and  English  Walnuts  would  form  a  lovely  approach 
to  any  of  our  bright  and  inviting  Peninsula  homes. 

SHELLBARK. 

This  nut-bearing  tree,  by  cultivation  and  care  in 
reproduction,  might  be  greatly  improved,  and  although 
very  slow-growing,  should  be  planted  in  groves,  about 
lawns  and  such  places.  They  are  a  delicious  nut,  and 
to  my  taste  are  equal,  if  not  superior,  in  flavor,  to  any 
other. 

ENGLISH    FILBERTS. 

I  have  planted  some  of  these.  They  grow  slowly, 
and  I  should  prefer  the  other  nuts  I  have  described. 

These  comprise  about  all  the  nuts  and  fancy  trees  I 
wish  to  speak  of,  or,  at  present,  recommend ;  but  on  my 
Fruit  Farm  at  Black's  Station,  Kent  Co.,  Maryland,  any 
one  wishing  to  see  a  great  variety  of  growing  nuts  and 
fruits,  will  be  gladly  welcomed  by  Mr.  C.  S.  Hill,  the 
intelligent  manager  of  the  farm. 

THE  DUTY  OF  PENINSULA  FRUIT  GROWERS  TO  ONE 
ANOTHER. 

In  the  maxim  "In  union  there  is  strength,"  there  is 
much  that  concerns  Peninsula  Fruit  Growers.  They 
should  stand  together  in  all  that  pertains  to  an  honest 
transaction  of  their  business  ;  they  should  stand 
together  in  obtaining  such  laws  from  the  State,  as  shall 


378  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

protect  and  foster  their  business,  honestly  spurning 
anything  like  legislation  for  the  purpose  of  giving  one 
single  suspicion  of  advantage  to  them  over  any  other 
citizen,  be  he  high  or  be  he  low.  The  fruit  grower  needs 
no  special  legislation,  for  all  laws  that  benefit  him  will 
be  for  the  general  good.  In  order  to  stand  together, 
the  intelligent  growers  of  the  whole  Peninsula,  if 
possible,  (if  not,  let  the  Delaware  Growers  make  the 
advance,)  should  establish  a  Horticultural  Society,  and 
let  its  one  aim  be  the  discussion  of  fruits,  and  the 
advancement  of  the  interests  of  the  fruit  growers,  and 
so  the  interests  of  all  the  good  people  dwelling  within 
the  jurisdiction  of  this  Society.  This  meeting  together 
of  the  leading  men  in  the  fruit-growing  business,  can 
only  lead  to  good  results,  and  the  good  effect  will  be 
apparent  in  better  methods  and  better  results,  as  wit- 
nessed in  Massachusetts,  Michigan,  New  Jersey,  and 
many  other  States. 

Let  the  Peninsula  Fruit-growers  gird  on  their 
armor,  let  them  lead,  not  follow,  and  as  Providence  has 
so  abundantly  favored  them,  so  let  them  be  abundantly 
thankful,  and  so  be  doubly  watchful  and  industrious, 

THE   DUTY   OF   THE   STATE   TO    HER    FRUIT   INTERESTS. 

As  a  mother  fosters  her  children,  so  should  the 
State  foster  those  interests  which  bring  health,  wealth 
and  happiness  to  her  citizens,  and  without  disparaging 


PEACH    AND   THE   PEAR.  379 

any  of  the  other  great  industries,  what  is  of  more 
importance  to  her  people  than  this  very  fruit  interest  ? 
That  which  has  made  us  both  fame  and  fortune,  and 
which  with  cheery  help  and  faithful  watching,  bids  fair  to 
render  us  as  celebrated  in  song  and  story  as  ever  was 

"  That  delightful  province  isf  the  sun, 
The  first  of  Persian  lands  he  shines  upon  ?" 

Although  what  I  have  to  say  here  applies  to  the 
whole  Peninsula,  yet  I  ieel  at  liberty  to  more  particularly 
address  the  citizens  of  my  own  State. 

As  I  have  said  in  the  Preface  to  this  book,  one  only 
has  to  enter  upon  work  such  as  I  have  entered  upon  in 
the  preparation  of  this  volume,  to  see  how  little  foster- 
ing care  such  a  great  interest  as  the  fruit  interest 
receives  from  the  State.  I  say  to  you,  men  of  Delaware, 
these  great  interests  are  threatened,  and  threatened  more 
and  more,  as  population  increases  and  the  cultivation  of 
trees  and  plants  is  multiplied.  Just  as  in  the  history  of 
mankind,  as  he  increases  and  multiplies,  obeying  the 
injunction  of  Holy  Writ,  zymotic  disease  appears. 
Every  hamlet  becomes  a  plague  spot,  and  his  very 
palaces,  much  more  his  hovels,  become  as  sepulchres,  and 
thus  mock  the  proud  assertions  of  his  boasted  civiliza- 
tion. And  as  with  mankind,  so  with  the  fruits  with 
which  God  has  favored  him  ;  only  crowd  them,  then 
pamper  them,  starve  them,  or  treat  them  as  you  will, 
here  again   the  zymotic  enemy  swoops  down,  and  the 


380  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

boasted  beauty  of  Pomona  yields  to  the  cruel  ravages  of 
this  relentless  enemy. 

So  it  must  ever  be,  and  as  God  has  declared  that 
man  must  earn  his  bread  by  tne  sweat  of  his  brow,  so  to 
enjoy  all  the  good  things  of  earth  He  has  given  us,  we 
must  be  watchful  of  them  and  labor  for  their  protection. 
I  believe  it  to  be  the  duty  of  the  State  to  act  at  once  for 
her  fruit  interests  now  so  seriously  menaced  by  enemies 
on  every  hand.  Look  at  France  ;  her  industries  and 
almost  her  very  existence  saved  by  the  work  of  one 
man,  the  great  and  illustrious  Pasteur.  With  a  faithful 
wife  and  daughter,  for  five  years  did  he  diligently  investi- 
gate the  silk  worm  disease,  and  now  from  that  study  the 
origin  of  the  trouble  is  traced  to  the  moth  with  peculiar 
concentric  rings.  These  moths  are  all  destroyed  now  in 
silk  culture,  or  rather  their  eggs  are  destroyed,  and  those 
eggs  only  are  saved  from  moth,  free  from  rings.  These, 
hatching,  form  cocoons  and  the  silk  crop  is  assured.  So 
again  he  has  immortalized  himself  and  rendered  France 
unbounded  service  by  his  investigations  into  the  fermen- 
tation of  wine  and  destroying  the  germs  by  high  tempera- 
ture. So  with  the  cattle  and  sheep  pests  has  he  wrestled 
and  conquered,  as  well  as  with  the  diseases  of  the  vines. 

Given  the  opportunity,  and  the  world  will  turn  up 
Pasteurs  as  occasion  will  demand  ;  and  now  right  on  this 
Peninsula,  we  have  the  opportunity  for  just  such  a  man. 
Here    we  have  peach   yellows,  pear  blight,  the  rust  of 


PEACH   AND   THE   PEAR.  381 

blackberries,  the  pear  slug,  the  asparagus  beetle  ;  in  fact 
a  thorn  to  every  rose  in  our  garden.  We  need  a  director 
of  horticulture  or  fruit  inspector,  or  by  what  ever  title  he 
be  designated.  He  should  be  appointed  by  the  State 
and  paid  a  living  salary,  a  good  salary,  with  the  under- 
standing he  is  employed  as  a  scientist  and  is  to  devote 
his  time,  yea,  his  very  life,  to  the  interests  he  is  called 
upon  to  protect.  We  can't  expect  to  get  a  Pasteur  or 
a  Koch,  or  a  Leidy  at  the  start,  but  the  man  should  be  a 
trained  scientist  and  at  the  same  time  have  some  prac- 
tical knowledge  of  his  subject,  or  at  least  be  an  apt 
scholar  at  learning  the  practical  parts. 

His  duty,  in  part,  should  be  to  investigate  all  fruit 
pests — all  fruit  tree  diseases — and  everything  relating  to 
the  enemies  of  fruits,  and  his  studies  may  be  carried  to 
the  cereals,  too.  He  should  publish  an  annual  report  of 
his  work,  and  give  full  statistics  of  all  our  fruits,  and  all 
matters  pertaining  to  them.  Give  us  such  a  man,  capa- 
ble to  fill  such  an  office,  and  his  first  report  will  be  the 
greatest  and  most  truthful  advertisement  the  State  ever 
received.  Give  us  this  man  and  our  industries  will  be 
enriched  by  the  protection  and  very  salvation  of  the 
fruit  interests,  the  greatest  of  all  our  industries.  Give  us 
this  man,  and  I  guarantee,  for  every  penny  the  State 
pays  for  his  services,  w?e  and  our  children,  and  our 
children's  children,  will  get  in  return,  thousands  upon 
thousands  of  dollars,  and  the  gratitude  of  thousands  of 


382  THE   CULTIVATION   OF   THE 

people  yet  unborn.  Oh,  men  of  Delaware,  would  that  I 
were  gifted  with  the  eloquence  of  a  Mirabeau  or  the 
persuasive  oratory  of  a  Choate,  that  I  might  burn  these 
words  into  your  very  souls,  and  raise  you  willingly  and 
quickly  to  action.  Oh,  study  this  question  well,  I  beg  of 
you  who  are  to  represent  us  in  the  coming  legislature. 
Be  up  and  doing.  Let  the  living  echoes  of  modern 
progress  from  far-off  France  be  ever  ringing  in  your  ears. 
Let  the  voice  of  the  great  Pasteur  encourage  you.  Our 
little  State  is  small,  in  the  past  she  has  been  conserva- 
tive, we  all  know,  perhaps,  that  was  meet  for  her 
modesty,  and  for  her  good  ;  but  now,  men  of  Delaware, 
let  us  raise  her  from  her  dignified  repose  of  centuries, 
let  us  teach  her  that  her  past  conservatism  carried 
beyond  the  just  merits  of  her  being,  may  be  but  the 
fore-runner  of  future  disintegration.  No,  the  Diamond 
State  will  take  no  step  backward,  she  will  advance  in 
the  front  line  of  modern  progress,  and  modern  ideas  ; 
and  so  let  her  carry  her  flag,  and, overshadowed  in  body 
though  she  be,  by  States  of  larger  degree,  let  us  strive 
for  her,  let  us  encourage  her,  let  us  support  her,  and  let 
us  so  form  her  record  in  the  future,  as  it  has  ever  been 
with  her  in  the  past  ;  that  all  may  admiringly  say,  as 
she  passes  in  review  among  the  galaxy  of  States,  stand 
up  little  Delaware,  let  us  judge  thee  by  thy  soul. 

THE   END. 


Note. — In  planting  all  fruit  trees  it  is  well  to  familiarize  yourself  with 
the  blossoms,  and  see  that  trees  with  any  defect  in  the  stamens,  as  where  the 
stamens  are  dwarfed  or  absent,  are  jilanted  near  some  variety  having  perfect 
blossoms.  This  is  very  important  in  apple  culture,  in  peach  culture,  in  pear 
culture,  in  fact,  in  the  cultivation  of  all  fruits;  although  in  large  orchard  cul- 
ture, with  many  varieties,  failure,  from  the  nature  of  tlic  surroundings,  don't 
often  happen.  In  peaches,  for  example,  as  the  Fox's  Seedling  has  a  better 
blossom  than  the  Crawford's  Late  or  Reeves,  plant  them  near  each  other.  In 
plums,  the  Wild  Goose  plum  has  an  imperfect  blossom  and  needs  a  plum  with 
a  perfect  blossom  near  it  to  fertilize  it,  and  so  on.  With  these  precautions  I 
believe  the  weaker  blossoms  will  be  less  likely  to  be  injured  by  frost. — ^J.  J.  B. 


INDBX.. 


ERRATA, 


Page  30,  eighth  line  from  bottom,  insert  the  word  "not"  between  the 
words  "probably"  and  "been." 

Page  226,  ninth  line  from  bottom,  "  Japanese"  should  be  "Oriental." 

Page  228,  eleventh  line  from  bottom,  "Louis"  should  be  "Louise." 

Page  239,  seventh  line  from  bottom,  "Clairgean"  should  be  "Clairgeau." 

Page  251,  third  line  from  top,  the  word  "Eastern"  should  be  "Easter." 

Page  253,  first  line,  "reduce"  should  be  "elevate." 

Page  260,  last  word  of  fifteenth  line  from  top,  "to,"  should  be  "from." 


INDEX. 


A. 

Acid,  phosphoric,  as  a  fertilizer,  65 

Ammonia  as  a  fertilizer,  65 

Analysis  of  the  pear  wood  and  bark,  270 

"       "     "     "     ash,  271 

Analyses  of  healthy  and  diseased  peach  wood,  57-58 

"       "         "         "         "         pear        "  270 

Anatomy,  physiology  and  development  of  the  pear  tree,  207 

Answers  to  questions  from  Peninsula  peach  growers,  153-201 

"           "             "        pear         "  317,  367 

Aphis  Per  ska,  or  peach  louse,  loi 

Apple  worm,  292 

Areoda  Lanigera,  Goldsmith  Beetle,  The  297 

Ashes,  wood,  as  a  fertilizer  in  peach  culture,  62 

B. 

Bacteria  bred  by  green  manures,  217 

Bacteria  the  cause  of  yellows  and  curled  leaf,  73,  96 

Bark  lice,  how  to  destroy  them,  102,  291 

Bartlett  Pear,  232 

Belle  Lucrative  Pear,  236 
25 


386  INDEX. 

Bell  Pear,  232 

Bergamot  Pear,  235 
Blight— 

its  nature,  cause  and  treatment,  277-286 

fire,  272 

twig,  272 

frost,  275 

insect,  275 

of  the  quince,  372 

Blossom  of  the  pear,  212 

Borer,  the,  its  nature  and  how  to  destroy  it,  98,  loi 

"       **     pear  tree,  295 

"       "     quince  tree,  296 

Bosc  Pear,  237 

Boussock  Pear,  237 

Brandy,  peach,  141 

Brandywine  Pear,  232 

Buds,  peach,  how  obtained,  kind  of,  40 

Buds,  pear,  212 

Budding  and  grafting  the  pear,  218 

Budding  peach  trees,  39 

Buffum  Pear,  237 

Business  of  peach  growing,  34 

Butter  Pear,  239 

c. 

Canning  the  peach,  137 

"       "     pear,  310 

Carbolic  acid,  fruit  tree  wash,  283 

Care  of  the  young  peach  orchard,  47 


INDEX.  387 

Chestnut,  Spanish,  The,  373 

Chlorine,  etc.,  as  fertilizers,  64 

Cin  Cin  Cis  Pear,  The  244 

Clairgeau  Pear,  239 

Clapp's  Favorite  Pear,  229 

Clover  detrimental  to  peach  growth,  (i^ 

Cold  storage  of  pears,  307 

Composition  of  peach  wood,  healthy  and  diseased,                       56-57 

Conserving  the  pear,  31 1 

Conserving  the  peach,  140 

Cracking  of  the  pear,  295 

Cracking  of  the  pear,  produced  by  fungus,  267 

Cracking  of  the  peach  bark,  301 

Crops,  peach,  gathering  and  marketing  of,  127,  129 

Culling  the  pear,  306 

Cultivation  of  the  peach  orchard,  52 

Curculio,  its  nature  and  remedies,  103-105,  291 

Curled  leaf,  its  cause,  nature  and  treatment,  96 

D. 

Daimyo  Pear,  The,  244 

Danger  attending  transportation  of  peach  trees,                                 42 

d'Anjou  Pear,  237 

Dearborn  Seedling  Pear,  231 

Decaying  of  the  pear,  295 

Delaware  Fruit  Exchange,  The,  131 

Development  of  the  pear  from  the  s»ed,  206 

Direction  of  Peach  Tree  rows,  39 

Diseases  and  enemies  of  the  peach,  73 

"       pear,  269 


388  INDEX. 

Diseased  peach  wood,  Analysis  of,  55-57 

"      pear         "             **         '*  27c 

Distance  between  the  peach  trees,  45 

"            "        *'    pear      "  253 

Division  of  pear  trees,  213 

Dix  Pear,  The,  238 

Dried,  sun,  peaches,  148 

Duchess  Pear,  236 

Duty  of  Peninsula  Fruit  Growers  to  one  another,  377 

Duty  of  the  State  to  her  fruit  interests,  378 

Dwarf  pear,  223 

Dwarf  pear  orchard,  261 


Early  Peninsula  Peach  Culture,  29 

Easter  Pear,  the,  243 

Elements,  The,  their  effect  on  the  pear,  294 

Enemies  and  diseases  of  the  peach,  73 

"         "         "          "       pear,  269 

English  Walnut  or  Madeira  nut,  The,  376 

Evaporating  the  peach,  142 

"          "    pear,  309 

Exchange,  The  Delaware  Fruit,  131 


Fertilization  of  the  peach  orchard,  53-^9 

Fertilizing  the  Peach  tree,  rules  for,  58-59,  149 

"    Pear       *'         "       "  262 

Fertilizers,  etc.,  formulae  for,  67,  266 


INDEX.  3^9 

Filbert,  The  English,  377 

Fire  as  a  remedy  for  Moths,  299 

Fire  blight,  272 

Foliage,  premature  shedding  of,  300 
Formulae  for  fertilizers,  &c.,                                                         67,  266 

Frost  blight,  272 

Frost,  its  effect  on  peach  growth,  93-9^ 

u           u   pgar        "  300 

Frozen  sap  blight,  ■^72 

Fruit  blight,  276 

Fruit  Exchange,  The  Delaware,  131 

Fruit  Growers,  Peninsula,  their  duty  to  one  another,  377 

Fruit  interests,  The  duty  of  the  State  to,  378 

Fruit,  sun  dried,  (peaches,)  1-1-8 


G. 


Garber  Pear,  The, 

242 

Gathering  the  peach  crop. 

127 

"    pear       " 

303 

Germicides, 

69-71 

Green  manure  and  lime. 

58 

Grafting  of  the  peach  usually  dispensed  with, 

40 

"       pear. 

218 

"       Tongue, 

220 

Growing  the  peach  tree  from  the  seed. 

37 

H. 

Hawaii  Pear,  The, 

244 

Healthy  peach  leaves, 

78 

"        peadh  wood,  analysis  of, 

55-57 

390  INDEX. 

History  of  the  peach,  27 

Housing  the  pear,  307 

Howell  Pear,  The,  234 

Hybrid  Pears,  224 


L 

Insect  blight,  Pear,  275 

Individual  description  of  pears,  229 

Introduction,  respecting  the  peach,  27 

"                    "            "  pear,  205 

Iron  as  a  fertilizer  in  peach  culture,  65 


Julienne  Pear,  The,  232 

June  Drop,  of  peaches,  The,  97 

K. 

Kainit  as  a  fertilizer,  62-63 

Kieffer  Pear,  The,  240 

L. 

Lawrence  Pear,  The,  242 

Lawson  Pear,  The,  242 

Leaf,  curled,  cause,  nature  and  treatment  of,  96 

Leather,  peach,  140 

LeConte  Pear,  The,  234 

Lice,  bark,  how  to  destroy,  103 


INDEX.  391 

Lime,  importance  of  and  objection  to,  59,  264 

List  of  pears  that  may  be  grown  on  the  peninsula,  227 

Lists  for  orchards  in  different  parts  of  the  Peninsula,  117 

Locating  the  peach  orchard,  43 

Lodge  Pear,  The,  234 

Louse,  the  peach,  its  destructive  qualities,  loi 

M. 

Madeira  nut,  376 

Madeline  Pear,  The,  230 

Manning's  Elizabeth  Pear,  231 
Manure,  green,  objection  to,                                                         58,  264 

Marketing  the  peach  crop,  129 

"           "    pear       "  308 

Marmalades,  peach,  141 

Maynard,  Prof  S.  T.,  on  the  peach,  85 

Mice,  as  enemies  of  the  peach,  105 

Mice,  as  enemies  of  the  Pear,  remedy  for,  244 

Mikado  Pear,  The,  244 

N. 

Natural  history  of  the  peach,  •  27 

Nursery,  peach  trees  in,  38 

The,  218 

Nuts,  Chestnut  and  Walnut,  373,  376 

o. 

Objections  to  the  use  of  green  manure  and  lime.  58,  283 


392  INDEX. 

Orchards,  peach,  care  of  young,  47 

**            "       cultivation  of,  52 

"             "       location  of,  43 

"             "       plans  of,  150 

Ott  Pear,  The,  205 

Over  feeding,  295 

Oyster  scales,  the  pear  tree,  292 

P. 

Peach — 

early  Peninsula  peach  culture,  29 

evaporating  the  peach,  142 

gathering  the  peach  crop,  127 

location  of  the  peach  orchard,  43 

marketing  the  crop,  129 

natural  history  of  the  peach,  27 

peach  brandy,  how  to  make,  142 

peach  growing  as  a  business,  34 

peach  leather,  how  to  make,  140 

peach  preserves,  pickles  and  marmalades,  141 

Peninsula  fruit  growers,  their  duty  to  one  another,  ;^jy 

phosphoric  acid  as  a  fertilizer,  65-67 

plans  for  the  peach  orchard,  150 

planting  the  trees,  time  and  manner  of,  44- 
planting  the  peach,  when  and  where,                                38-39,  43 

potash,  importance  of,  as  a  fertilizer,  62-67 

pruning,  41,  47 

pruning  as  a  fertilizer,  66 
psylla,  the,  its  nature  and  treatment,                                  297,  298 

potash  as  a  remedy  for  yellows,  77 


INDEX.  393 


time  and  manner  of  planting  the  seed  and  the  tree, 

38-39>  44 

varieties  of  the  Peninsula  peach, 

107 

washes  for  peach  trees. 

69-71 

R — 

anatomy  and  physiology  of  the  tree, 

207 

blossom,  perfect  and  imperfect, 

212 

budding  and  grafting, 

218 

buds  of, 

212 

canning. 

212 

cold  storage  of, 

307 

crops  which  should  be  planted  among  pear  trees, 

254 

development  of  the  tree  from  the  seed, 

206 

diseases  and  enemies  of, 

269 

distance  between  the  trees, 

253 

Dwarf,  the. 

223 

enemies  of  the  pear, 

269 

evaporating. 

131 

fertilizing,  formulas  for, 

262 

growing  the  pear  as  a  business, 

215 

"         "      "  ,  history  of,  on  the  Peninsula, 

214 

Hybrid  Pears, 

214 

Hybrid  trees. 

213 

individual  descriptions  of  different  varieties, 

229 

introduction  respecting  the  pear, 

205 

natural  history  of. 

205 

orchards,  the  site  and  soil  for  Peninsula, 

251 

"     Standards, 

259 

planting  the  trees, 

253-4 

propagation  of  the  pear, 

217 

pruning  the  Dwarf  tree, 

256 

"        "    Standard  tree, 

255 

394  INDEX. 

Peninsula  pear  growing,  214 

Standard  Pear  tree,  213 

varieties  of  the  pear  grown  on  the  Peninsula,  227 

washes,  pear  tree,  266 

when  to  plant  the  pear,  253 

Questions  and  answers  to  and  from  peach-growers,  153-201 

"         "         "       "     "       "     pear-growers,  317-367 

Quince,  the,  369 


R. 

Rabbits  as  enemies  of  the  peach,  105 

"       "        '•        "     "   pear,  remedy  for,  244 

Relative  value  of  varieties  of  peach,  table  of,  125 

"          "      "         "        "  for  evaporating,  145 

Remedies  for  pear  blight,  280 

Rostiezer  Pear,  The,  233 

Remedies  for  yellows,  81 
Rules  for  fertilizing  peach  trees,                                               58-59i  149 

Riitter  Pear,  The,  239 

s. 

Saddle  grafting,  220 

Salt  as  a  fertilizer  for  the  pear  tree,  266 

Salt  as  a  remedy  for  cracking  pears,  267 

Scale  insects,  291 


INDEX.  395 

Seed,  peach,  growing  from,  37-3^ 

"     pear,  developing  from,  206 

Seckel  Pear,  The,  239 

Seventeen  year  locust,  the,  300 

Sha  Lea  Pear,  The,  244 

Shapes  of  Pears,  226 

Sheldon  Pear,  The,  239 

Shellbarks,  377 

Shipping  peaches  to  Europe,  201 

Slug,  the,  and  its  remedies,  286 
Soil,  the  proper  kind  of,                                                             43-4,  251 

Spanish  Chestnut,  the,  373 
Standard  Pear  Tree,                                                                        213,  223 

Starvation  of  pear,  294 

State,  the,  its  duly  to  fruit  interests,  378 

Storage  of  pears,  cold,  307 

Suet  Lea  Pear,  244 

Summer  Doyenne  Pear,  The,  230 

Sugar  Pear,  The,  230 

Sun-dried  fruit,  148 

T. 

Table  of  relative  value  of  the  varieties  of  the  peach,  125 

Table  of  ripening  of  the  leading  varieties  of  peach,  >22 

Tar  paper  as  a  protection  against  mice  and  rabbits,  105 

The  peach,  natural  history  of,  27 

Thrips,  their  destructive  quahties,  loi 
Time  and  manner  of  planting  the  peach  seed,                        38-40,  45 

Time  of  ripening,  table  of,  122 

Tongue  Grafting,  220 


39^  INDEX. 


Transportation  of  peach  trees,  danger  attending, 

42 

Treatment  of  yellows, 

8i 

Trees,  peach,  care  of, 

47 

"         "         danger  attending  transportation  of, 

42 

''         "         growing  from  the  seed, 

37-38 

"         "         in  the  nursery. 

38 

Tyson  Pear,  The, 

233 

u. 

Unhealthy  peach  leaves,  78 

'*             "      wood,  analyses  of,  .55-57 

"          pear       "             "        "  270 

Urbaniste  Pear,  238 


V. 

Value  of  varieties  of  the  peach,  125 

Varieties  of  the  peach  for  the  Peninsula,  107 

"       "     "         "  ,  relative  value  of,  125 

"       "     "    pear,  223 

Vicar  of  Winkfield  Pear,  243 


w. 

Walnut,  English,  the  376 

Wash,  carbolic  acid,  fruit  tree,  283 

Wash,  Randolph  Peter's,  151 

"^    for  destroying  bark  lice,  103 

Wash,  The  Saunders  Agricultural  Grounds  pear  tree,  299 


INDEX.  397 

Washes,  peach  tree,  69-71 

"      pear  tree,  266 

Washington  Pear,  238 

Water,  importance  of  proximity  to  the  peach  orchard,  5  43 

<<             ((            ti         n          (t    a    pg^j.  (t                         252 

When  and  where  to  plant  the  peach,  38-39,  43 

When  to  plant  the  pear,  253 

Winter  Nelis  Pear,  243 

Wood  ashes  as  a  fertilizer,  62 

Wood,  peach,  healthy  and  diseased,  analysis  of,                           55*57 

Work  for  each  month  of  the  year  in  the  fruit  orchard,                    311 

Y. 

Yellows,  its  cause,  symptoms  and  treatment,  74"8l 


